How To Use 0266 Codes

How To Use 0266 Codes

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



11/6/89

- Jester's guide to 950-0266's for the new Phreaker -

This is a file I just decided to write , right after a guy
that lives near me, who runs a bbs complained about his
outrageously high phone bill, and being that I use 0266's I
decided that I would TRY to write a text file on how to use
this simple way of phreaking. I have only been phreaking for 2
months, so what Im about to type is done so with the best of
my knowledge.

There are many different types of 950's, but the type I use is
the 950-0266 and I use these because that is what I was taught
with and they seem like a fairly good, and easy way to phreak.
950-0266s are known to have VERY clean lines, so they are
perfect to use with modems.

The basic format for these codes are:
(1) Dial 950-0266
(2) Wait for tone then dial your 7 digit Code
(3) Right after dialing your Code dial your ACN (Area Code
Number)
I.E. if I were to call my friend Joe in Utah, I would do
this...
950-0266 (tone) XXXXXXX8015551234
The X's stand for the 7 digit code

950's have known to be dangerouse, they are on ESS (electronic
switching service) which is a phreaks nightmare. Being that
950's are on the ESS they can, and have been known to trace.
The type of tracing service on 950's can trace in a heart
beat, so there is somewhat a great risk in using these.
* Some precautions about using 950s - Do NOT use the same code
for more then 3 days. Try to use different codes if you have
them i.e. call one board with a code like 2314211 , and then
call the next board with a totally different code. Use these
codes during prime time, to cut the risk of getting caught
down. And use these in moderation, do not get crazy with them.

I hope this file hasnt been to much of a waste of time, I
hope it has offered some help to you in using 950-0266's.

If this file has offered you some kind of assistance, or if
you just hate it, call my VMB (voice mail box) at :
1-800-444-7207 box # 9542
or call my other VMB at :
1-800-444-7212 hit 4 then box 249

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/


 

A fairly complete list of 10xxx codes for LD compa

A fairly complete list of 10xxx codes for LD compa

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This is the most complete 10xxx (pronounced ten triple ex) table I have been
able to get. Not all of these companies offer originating service in all
locations, and many require an account on their system. Some, like
10214- Tyler Telecom of Tyler, TX, is usable only from eastern Texas.
Others that seem local can be gotten into from the strangest of places.

To use these normally from your home phone, you would dial 10xxx, where 'x'
is the three digit code shown, followed by 1, then the area code and
number desired.

To find out if the service is usable in your area, dial 10xxx-1-700-555-4141.
You will then get one of several responses. The most common is "Doo-Daa-Dee
Your call cannot be completed with that access code." or "That long distance
service is un-available in your area". If the carrier is available
from your switch, you then hear something like "You have reached the AT&T
long distance network. Thank you for choosing AT&T. This message will
not be repeated."

If you find a little known carrier that you might like an account on, look
up the name in the phone book. If it is not there, try dialing 10xxx-0, and
wait for an operator to come on. Ask her for the 800 number so that you
can open an account, and ask her what town she is located in.

If you would like to just guess at an account, dial 10xxx-0-NPA-7D, and listen
for the ka-bong. You must then enter some digits. For AT&T, thats 10 digits
of some ones home phone, and then 4 digits of secret code.

If you just use the carrier from your home phone, many times the bill will
come on your local telco bill; others times,the carrier bills you separately.

Please note the tariff provides that these companies are entitled to receive
your name, address and telephone number from your local telco, even if your
service is non-published. Whether they pass that along to whoever you call
depends on how modern their equipment is. A few make good extenders this way.

001 MidAmerican LD (Republic Telecom)
002 AmeriCall LDC
003 RCI Corporation
007 Tel America
011 Metromedia Long Distance
012 Charter Corporation (Tri-J)
013 Access Services
021 Mercury
022 MCI Telecommunications
023 Texnet
024 Petricca Communications Systems
028 Texnet
030 Valu-Line of Wichita Falls
031 Teltec Saving Communications
033 US Sprint
036 Long Distance Savers
039 Electronic Office Centers of America (EO/Tech)
042 First Phone
044 Allnet Communication Services (LDX, Lexitel)
053 American Network (Starnet)
056 American Satellite
057 Long Distance Satellite
059 COMNET
060 Valu-Line of West Texas
063 COMNET
069 V/COM
070 National Telephone Exchange
080 AMTEL Systems
084 Long Distance Service (LDS)
085 WesTel
088 Satellite Business Systems (MCI)
089 Telephone Systems
090 WesTel
093 Rainbow Communications
095 Southwest Communications
099 AmeriCall
122 RCA Global Communications
137 All America Cables and Radio (ITT)
142 First Phone
146 ARGO Communications
188 Satellite Business Systems
201 PhoneNet
202 ExecuLines
203 Cypress Telecommunications (Cytel)
204 United Telephone Long Distance
206 United Telephone Long Distance
211 RCI
212 Call US
213 Long Distance Telephone Savers
214 Tyler Telecom
215 Star Tel of Abilene
217 Call US
219 Call USA
220 Western Union Telegraph
222 MCI Telecommunications (SBS)
223 Cable & Wireless Communication (TDX)
224 American Communications
227 ATH Communications (Call America)
229 Bay Communications
232 Superior Telecom
233 Delta Communications
234 AC Teleconnect (Alternative Communication)
237 Inter-Comm Telephone
239 Woof Communications (ACT)
241 American Long Lines
242 Choice Information Systems
244 Automated Communications
245 Taconic Long Distance Service
250 Dial-Net
252 Long Distance/USA
253 Litel Telecommunications
255 All-State Communications
256 American Sharecom
260 Advanced Communications Systems
263 Com Systems (Sun Dial Communications)
268 Compute-A-Call
276 CP National (American Network, Starnet)
284 American Telenet
286 Clark Telecommunications
287 ATS Communications
288 AT&T Communications
298 Thriftline
302 Austin Bestline
303 MidAmerican LD (Republic Telecom)
311 SaveNet (American Network, Starnet)
318 Long Distance Savers
321 Southland Systems
322 American Sharecom
324 First Communication
331 Texustel
333 US Sprint
336 Florida Digital Network
338 Midco Communications
339 Communication Cable Laying
343 Communication Cable Laying
345 AC Teleconnect (Alternative Communication)
350 Dial-Net
355 US Link
357 Manitowoc Long Distance Service
362 Electronic Office Centers of America (EO/Tech)
363 Tel-Toll (Econ-O-Dial of Bishop)
369 American Satellite
373 Econo-Line Waco
375 Wertern Union Telegraph
385 The Switchboard
393 Execulines of Florida
400 American Sharecom
404 MidAmerican LD (Republic Telecom)
412 Penn Telecom
428 Inter-Comm Telephone
432 Lightcall
435 Call-USA
436 Indiana Switch
440 Tex-Net
441 Escondido Telephone
442 First Phone
444 Allnet Communication Services (LDX, Lexitel)
455 Telecom Long Distance
456 ARGO Communications
462 American Network Services
464 Houston Network
465 Intelco
466 International Office Networks
469 GMW
472 Hal-Rad Communications
480 Chico Telecom (Call America)
488 United States Transmission Systems (ITT)
505 San Marcos Long Distance
515 Burlington Telephone
529 Southern Oregon Long Distance
532 Long Distance America
533 Long Distance Discount
536 Long Distance Management
550 Valu-Line of Alexandria
551 Pittsburg Communication Systems
552 First Phone
555 TeleSphere Networks
566 Cable & Wireless Communication (TDX)
567 Advanced Marketing Services (Dial Anywhere)
579 Lintel System (Lincoln Telephone LD)
590 Wisconsin Telecommunications Tech
599 Texas Long Distance Conroe
601 Discount Communications Services
606 Biz Tel Long Distance Telephone
622 Metro America Communications
634 Econo-Line Midland
646 Contact America
654 Cincinnati Bell Long Distance
655 Ken-Tel Service
660 Tex-Net
666 Southwest Communications
675 Network Services
680 Midwest Telephone Service
682 Ashland Call America
684 Nacogdoches Telecommunications
687 NTS Communications
700 Tel-America
704 Inter-Exchange Communications
707 Telvue
709 Tel-America
717 Pass Word
726 Procom
727 Conroe-Comtel
735 Marinette-Menominee Lds
737 National Telecommunications
741 ClayDesta
742 Phone America of Carolina
743 Peninsula Long Distance Service
747 Standard Informations Services
755 Sears Communication
757 Pace Long Distance Service
759 Telenet Communication (US Sprint)
760 American Satellite
766 Yavapai Telephone Exchange
771 Telesystems
777 US Sprint
785 Olympia Telecom
786 Shared Use Network Service
787 Star Tel of Abilene
788 ASCI's Telepone Express Network
789 Microtel
792 Southwest Communications
800 Satelco
801 MidAmerican LD (Republic)
827 TCS Network Services
833 Business Telecom
839 Cable & Wireless Communication (TDX)
847 VIP Connections
850 TK Communications
852 Telecommunicatons Systems
859 Valu-Line of Longview
866 Alascom
872 Telecommunications Services
874 Tri-Tel Communications
879 Thriftycall (Lintel Systems)
881 Coastal Telephone
882 Tuck Data Communications
883 TTI Midland-Odessa
884 TTI Midland-Odessa
885 The CommuniGroup
888 Satellite Business Systems (MCI)
895 Texas on Line
897 Leslie Hammond (Phone America)
898 Satellite Business Systems (MCI)
910 Montgomery Telamarketing Communication
915 Tele Tech
933 North American Communications
936 Rainbow Commuinications
937 Access Long Distance
938 Access Long Distance
951 Transamerica Telecommunications
955 United Communications
960 Access Plus
963 Tenex Communications
969 Dial-Net
985 America Calling
986 MCI Telecommunications (SBS)
987 ClayDesta Communications
988 Western Union Telegraph
991 Access Long Distance

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/


 

The freephone numbers in the UK with computers on

1? ?  0 5 5 5 5 5 6 0800 MODEM CONNECTS
++++++++0800-896-XXX Scanned by cODeWalKeR of DaC And COVER+++++++

OK in addition to my phellow hacker the most god like phallic symbol of fertility
SCRIBLA. Greets also go out to SMURF....and...... JJJJJAAAAFFFFFF !!!!!
OK please remember that the "STAFF" at D.A.C. have spent many,many, nights
scanning these numbers for you and hope you all appreciate the work that has gone into this list, it not be very long but we are talking 1,000,s of numbers scanned
to find the 0800 numbers with systems for you to "HACK". So we would be more than
dissapointed not to hear from anyone who has downloaded this list and "hacked" into
one of these systems and not told us the results. So don't be complete TROGLODYTE
AND LET US ALL HAVE THE FRUITS OF YOUR LABOUR, THIS IS WHAT KEEPS US
GOING!!! Anyway nuff said, here are the numbers for you to fuck with and remember
all this phun to be had and it won't cost you anyting it's FFFFFRRRRRRREEEEEEEE!!
All these nimbers were scanned 31/5/94,in the twilight hours. Greets to all !!!

cOdEwAlKeR

0800 896 031
085
094
118
173
195
227
239
422
520
570
574
657

Oops almost forgot here is a few more i have been given by sCrIbLa !!! (respect)
0800 893 901
939
944
And because i'm addicted to this here are some i stumbeled upon before i went to bed
at such a fucking stupid hour again !!
0800 895 093
085 (300 buad)
054 (9600, 8 n 1)
ok guys here's the good one !!!!!!
CALL 0800 895 051 (not all at once) then type "help", then type "calleml"
that should get you started!!! sorry almost forgot 9600 baud,8/n/1. Watch out for system
security!!!!!!, it will ask for your I.D. at any time ,sorry but i can't help you there.

0800 895 011
898 028 (with this one you must set your moup to
connect AFTER you have dialed the number then hit the " * " key yourself ?)
021
044
030
038
The following numbers were taken for an old txt phile and I have updated them,they are as follows... 0800 262 243
282 278
443
861 (7/e/1)
542
871 (7/e/1) try cltr=e/q
289 396 (the code is xxx-xxxx )
586
643
817 Fun to fuck with!!
835
836
Well I think thats all i'm going to do now i think about 7,000 numbers have been scanned
and I think we should leave some for the rest of you. We have had a few connects on the
following numbers but they have not been completley scanned , so you may want to try
the following blocks of numbers yourself. 0800 289 2xx, 4xx, 7xx, and 0800 282 2xx, 3xx
4xx, 5xx,6xx. Also 0800 262 2xx. Well have phun and upload the results to us all. if you
want to exchange notes then leave a message for me.

Contact me on UnAuThOrIsEd AcCeSs
0636467

cOdEwAlKrE....C

PS 0800 899 899 (9600 7/E/1)

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

A list of 1- 800 extenders

A list of 1- 800 extenders

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


1-800 Extenters
---------------

Number Code Length Co.
------ ----------- ---
325-7222 6
328-4700 7
521-8400 8 Travelnet (GM)
437-7010 14 Calling Card
325-7499 6 Am. Network
227-0073 7
558-7888 6 or 7?
626-9600 7
637-7377 7 DANGEROUS!!!!!
446-4462 6 or 7 Skyline (MCI)
^ also 950-1088 ^local, 7 national
858-4009 6 or 7 NTS (Texas)
221-2480 8 (1+)
345-0008 6 US Telecom
762-3638 6
538-0007 6
922-0918 6 RCI
336-7817 6 ANY 6 works!
^CAREFUL!
221-0902 5?
633-8880 3
526-7490 6
527-3511 8 (2 tries)
558-1000 6 MCI
843-0698 6 MCI
682-4000 6
237-9300 ?
882-2255 5 Americom
221-1950 14 Calling Card
221-8190 1xxx+6 digits? RCA
523-7248 4?
321-0424 8?
321-0845 6
323-4313 5
327-0005 2800+?
368-4222 8
368-5963 14 MCI Call Card
547-1784 6 Am. Network
448-8989 8
621-1703 6

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/


 

Lego Silencer

by Kipling

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Items needed:

-round dowel (wood or rubber) that is the diameter of the pipe (it must fit tightly into the pipe so it doesn't fall out).)

-handlebar grip (the kind used on mountainbike handlebars) basically a long thin tube of rubber that is a fair thickness like that of a handlebar grip.

-pipe approx. 4-6 inches long which is not more than a few millimeters bigger than the handlebar grip in diameter.

- lego tires. the ones from the older lego. They were all one piece and kind of looked like this [ ]------------[ ] the 'rims' that the tires were on were redthe rest of the lego piece was usually black.

Instructions: take the pipe (I used a metal one with the pipe walls being only about a millimeter thickness) and slide the rubber handlebar grip all the way over it so the outside of the pipe is covered with the grip. Now take the lego tires (take them off the lego 'rims'. all you need is the tires themselves) and slide them down the inside of the pipe so they are evenly spaced at approx. half a centimeter from each other all the way down the inside of the pipe.

The tires should be a tight, snug fit as you are pushing down the pipe otherwise they will fall out of the pipe. so choose your pipe diameter accordingly. Leave some space free from lego tires inside the pipe at both ends. you will need to take the dowel (rubber or wood) and drill a hole exactly in the center which is approx. a millemeter bigger than a .22 cal. bullet.

Now you need to force it in one end of the silencer. This will become the "muzzle" (where the bullet comes out)of the silencer. Now wrap masking tape around the end of the barrel of your gun until the diameter of the tape is as thick as the inside diameter of your silencer. Finally you can now slide your silencer onto the end of your gunbarrel. Make sure it is a presice fit and that the muzzle of your gun lines up perfectly with the muzzle of your silencer otherwise the bullet will take the silencer with it next time you fire the gun.

When you fire the gun you will hear a high pitched noise (like a tweet) simmilar to what you hear on movies when someone uses a silencer. This takes approx. a couple hours to make and is fairly easy to make. I got the idea for this from other articles on this website, all I did was try to think of some alternate materials which would be easier to find around the house. But this works really great and you can make a bunch of them really easily and quickly for all your firearms. I only tried it on a .22 LR rifle using supersonic rounds, but I'm sure it would work on other calibers as well as long as you always make sure that the bullet itself is able to easily fit throught all the tires and the end dowel otherwise your silencer will be history the first time you try it.

An Aussie Beer Can Mortar

by Andy

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Once apon a time well before I was connected to the net........

About Me..

Married, one ruggie, and a military man.

As a mechanical fitter I have been employed many times to manufacture tools and jigs for other tradesmen working in different departments in my unit. I have an interest in firearms (and weapons)of all types. I have used my skills to manufacture model, nad larger cannon as well as helping mates with legal modifications to there firearms. Yes I have also committed the most grevious of sins by de-activating or de-milling other wise serviceable weapons just because they were unfasionable at the time. I will never vote for that government again!!

Well any way one day...

I happened upon a large peice of brass round stock 125mm x 400mm. Too nice to be left lying around, too short for a cannon, just right for a mortar. So a quick look at my reference material and a suitable mortar shape was drawn up, scaled to give the least waste from the raw material... and just the right size to be bored to 62mm. A nice clearence diameter for a Victoria Bitter Beer Can. The exact dimentions of my mortar are unimportant, needless to say that I overengineered to some degree.

The projectile was selected because of:

A, size

b, shape

c, diameter

and, d, abundance!

The brass stock was offered to my trusty lathe and trued up externaly then drilled and bored to size. External dimentions were basic as all a Blackpowder mortar is, is a short, thick tube. The trunnion is located at the base, just the same as the modern stokes mortar, with a wooden carrage.

Mortars and Howitsers have a common theme, use a small powder charge to lob the projectile to the desired range. Many early mortar have huge bore sizes enabling large diameter projectiles to be fired short distances, all that was needed then. In keeping with the mortar theme a powder chamber 30mm in Dia. x 30mm deep was machined into the base of the short barrel.

Initial testing of the mortar with empty and gravel filled beer cans proved dissapointing.

The thinking cap went on and the very next weekend ten concrete filled beer cans were ready for some serious R&D

The Big day (no not Trinity NM 1945) but close!

A blow by blow account by Brat (not his real name)and Andy..

"Will it work this time" Snickered Brat.

"Fu** off Brat, I've just finished greasing the can, it would justabout fit your a** keep it up!" I retorted, we are really good mates!

"Eat me" or words to that effect snapped Brat.

"Is that all the powder you are going to use?" asked Brat

"Is the wick long enough?"

"Should'nt you push the can in more? finished Brat, the expert.

"Who's fu**ing this duck, stand back wicks lit" I replied.

"Shit"

BOOOM..gasp for breath, good shockwave!

The can launched out of that thing like a scalded cat (and we havew seen some oof those), rose to 200 meters, reached apogee (dictonary job) and tumbled into a lake at the 175 meter mark on the range (1/2 way between the turkeys and the rams. The thud of impact was preceded by the 10 meter shower of water glinting in the morning sun.

Just afterwards I was basking in wonder of what I had done, watching the thick cloud of smoke lasily drifd down range when I heared a funny noize...

"Is that you Brat?" I asked

"Mummummf, MMUMMF!"

"Speak up prick!" I replied as I turned to see Brat. His eyes were rolled back, in one bony hand was a beer can, in the other the powder flask and the reason he was incoherent 6" of wick clenched in between his drooling lips.

"OK your turn"

On a more analitical note:

Range at 45 - 55 Deg 180 to 250 meters

Altitude 200 to 250 meters, by eye

F grade Blackpowder only, augmented with homemade stuff to fill the chamber

Only the finest VB cans were used

Lots of Vasiline as lube

Felt wadding

commercial cannon fuse

The bore fouled up quickly, probably because of my blackpowder

Cement (mortar mix) strenghtened the can and increased pressure nicely.

We stood well back!!! and still felt the shock wave.

Standard disclamers, I'm telling a story, not giving instructions!!!

A BEER CAN IN FLIGHT IS A WONDERFUL SIGHT!

AIM

Jail-bird Ice Pick

by 6ic-Cee

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The Jailbird Ice Pick

6-C

There's an ice-pick jailbirds make! Pro-lifers make these and kill each other with this; here's how to make it!

You'll Need:

A little bit of seran wrap or any king of plastic really.
A tooth brush.
Fire.

How to Make: Take the plastic and wrap it around the head of the tooth-brush tightly, put the head into an open flame from, let's say, a lighter untill it catches fire. Let it burn a bit, then, scrape it against the concrete floor untill you have a really sharp tooth-brush

GloveGun

by Corza

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

GloveGun

Materials:

Small metal Rubber glove fingers Duct tape

Optional: Welder

Step one:

Cut the finger of one ruber glove right down near the base. Get some pipe and make sure its just big enough so that you can strech the glove over it and it stays on.

Step two:

Cut the pipe to about 35 cm and 10 cm for a handle.

Step three:

Cut the end of the handle bit at 45 degrees, then weld it at the very end of the 35cm peice so it is in the shape of a number 7.

Step four:

Duct tape the handle up, and file of any cut ends. Then duct tape a glove finger about 3cms on the end of the pipe.

How to use:

Use fishing sinkers, ball bearings or my prefered ammo, metal nuts about one cm across. You can experiment with ammo and by putting a laser pointer on top but do not use rocks cause they cut up the glove fingers

Big Bullets For Beginners

by Anonymous

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Big Bullets for Beginners Guns are generally classified according to use, size, and tradition. This varies among the military services. The basic distinction is between small arms and artillery. Any gun below a 20- millimeter bore size is generally classified as a small arm. The Army distinguishes among mortars, howitzers, and guns.

Mortars give high trajectories with short range and are usually loaded from the muzzle. Howitzers give medium-to-high trajectories, and guns provide flat-to-medium trajectories of longer range. Bore size is usually given in millimeters.

A gun can be considered as a particular kind of heat engine. In operation, the propellant charge located in the gun chamber is ignited by the primer. Gases produced by combustion of the propellant grains cause a rapid buildup of pressure. When a certain pressure is reached (shot-start pressure) which overcomes the forces of projectile weight and engraving of the projectile in the rifling, the projectile begins to move toward the muzzle which causes an increase in chamber volume. A maximum pressure is reached a few inches from the origin of rifling followed by a decrease in pressure all the way to the muzzle. At the muzzle, the pressure is 10 percent to 30 percent of the maximum pressure, depending on the geometry of the propellant grains.

Artillery ammunition can be classified in many ways. One classification is based on the manner in which the components are assembled for loading and firing. Complete rounds of artillery ammunition are known as either semi-fixed or separate loading. In contrast, small arms rounds are FIXED ammunition, with which it is not possible to adjust the amount of propellant in the cartridge case).

Semi-fixed ammunition is characterized by an adjustable propelling charge. The propellant is divided into increments, or charges, and each increment of propellant is contained in a cloth bag. All of the cloth bags are held together by an acrylic cord, and are stored in the cartridge case. The primer is an integral part of the cartridge case, and is located on the base. Semi-fixed ammunition may be issued fuzed or unfuzed. Semi-fixed ammunition is used in 105mm howitzers. The ammunition is shipped in a wooden crate, with two fiber tubes in each crate. The fiber tubes are sealed at each end with tape. Upon removing the tape, the cannoneer will place the heavy end down first, and remove the projectile from the fiber tube. Next, the cartridge case is removed. Both the projectile and canister MUST REMAIN in their fiber cups until firing. Separate loading ammunition has four separate components: primer, propellant, projectile, and fuze. The four components are issued separately. Upon preparation for firing, the projectile and propellant are loaded into the howitzer in two separate operations. Separate loading ammunition is used in 155mm howitzers.

There are two explosive trains in each conventional round of artillery ammunition; the PROPELLING CHARGE EXPLOSIVE TRAIN, and the PROJECTILE EXPLOSIVE TRAIN. The projectile reaches the target area by the power obtained from the propelling charge explosive train. The function of the projectile in the target area depends on the type of projectile explosive train.

The propelling charge explosive train consists of the primer, igniter, and propellant. The propelling charge explosive train is initiated by the primer, which is a small amount of very sensitive explosive. The primer is very sensitive to shock, friction, spark, and heat, and must be kept protected and away from other ammunition components. In separate loading ammunition, the primer is a separate item of issue. The igniter provides hot flaming gases and particles to ignite the propelling charge. The igniter consists of black powder or Clean Burning Igniter (CBI). The igniter is very hygroscopic and subject to rapid deterioration on absorption of moisture. If kept dry, however, it retains its explosive properties indefinitely. The igniter for semi-fixed ammunition is an integral part of the primer. It consists of a perforated tube filled with black powder and is permanently mounted in the cartridge case. In separate loading ammunition, the igniter is in a circular red pancake shaped bag sewn to the base increment of the propellant. When ignited by the primer, the igniter sends hot flaming gases around the charge to ignite the propellant.

A propellant is a large amount of insensitive but powerful explosive that propels the projectile to the target. Semi-fixed ammunition propellant is generally issued with seven increments numbered 1 through 7, and connected by a thin acrylic cord. Each increment is a different size because each increment has a different premeasured amount of propellant. Increment 1 and 2 are single perforated and increments 3-7 are multi-perforated. Separate loading ammunition propellants are issued as a separate unit of issue in sealed canisters to protect the propellant. The amount of propellant to be fired with artillery ammunition is varied by the number of propellant increments. The charge selected is based on the range to the target and the tactical situation.

Projectile Design

Since the first projectile was manufactured, the demand for greater accuracy and greater range has influenced projectile design. Without specifically constructed shapes and exterior parts, there would be no standard ballistic characteristics for any group or type of projectiles. A lack of ballistic standardization would prevent the computation of firing tables. Modern projectiles are designed for maximum stability and minimum air resistance in flight.

Eyebolt Lifting Plugs and Fuze Well Plugs. A separate-loading projectile has an eyebolt lifting plug. Other types of projectiles have metal hex-head or plastic closing plugs. The plug is for lifting; to keep the fuze well clean, dry, and free of foreign matter; and to protect the fuze well threads. The plug is removed, and the appropriate fuze is inserted at the firing position. Some special-purpose semifixed projectiles are issued with the fuzes already assembled in the projectile.

Ogive. The ogive is the curved portion of a projectile between the fuze well and the bourrelet. It streamlines the forward portion of the projectile. The curve of the ogive usually is the arc of the circle, the center of which is located in a line perpendicular to the axis of the projectile and the radius of which is generally 6 to 11 calibers.

Bourrelet. The bourrelet is an accurately machined surface that is slightly larger than the body and located immediately to the rear of the ogive. It centers the forward part of the projectile in the tube and bears on the lands of the tube. When the projectile travels through the bore, only the bourrelet and the rotating band of the projectile bear on the lands of the tube.

Body. The body is the cylindrical portion of the projectile between the bourrelet and the rotating band. It is machined to a smaller diameter than the bourrelet to reduce the projectile surface in contact with the lands of the bore. The body contains most of the projectile filler.

Rotating Band. The rotating band is a cylindrical ring of comparatively soft metal that is pressed into a knurled, or roughened, groove near the base of the projectile. It mates with the forcing cone of the tube to eliminate gas wash (blow-by) and to provide forward obturation. The rotating band, in conjunction with the rifling of the tube, imparts spin to the moving projectile. A properly rammed separate-loading projectile is held in the tube at all angles of elevation by the wedging action of the rotating band against the forcing cone.

Obturating Band. On some projectiles, there is a nylon obturating band below the rotating band to help in forward obturation. Two examples of 155-mm projectiles with this type of a band are the illuminating round and the high-explosive rocket-assisted round.

Base. The base is that portion of the projectile below the rotating band or obturating band. The most common type is known as the boattail base. This type of base streamlines the base of the projectile, gives added stability in flight, and minimizes deceleration by reducing the vacuum-forming eddy currents in the wake of the projectile as it passes through the atmosphere.

Base Cover. The base cover is a metal cover that is crimped, caulked or welded to the base of the projectile. It prevents hot gases of the propelling charge from coming in contact with the explosive filler of the projectile through possible flaws in the metal of the base.

Large Caliber Ammunition - Types of Projectiles

Projectiles can be broadly classified according to three main types: spin-stabilized, fin-stabilized, and rocket assisted (both fin- and spin-stabilized). Formal military classification is based on the intended use of the projectile and the composition of the explosive charge (i.e., antipersonnel, antitank, and incendiary). Some very significant progress in projectile design has been made in the past few years.

SPIN-STABILIZED PROJECTILES Most guns in use today use spin-stabilized projectiles. Spinning a projectile promotes flight stability. Spinning is obtained by firing the projectiles through a rifled tube. The projectile engages the rifling by means of a rotating band normally made of copper. The rotating band is engaged by the lands and grooves. At a nominal muzzle velocity of 2800 feet per second, spin rates on the order of 250 revolutions per second are encountered. Spin-stabilized projectiles are full bore (flush with the bore walls) and are limited approximately to a 5:1 length-to-diameter ratio. They perform very well at relatively low trajectories (less than 45° quadrant elevation). In high trajectory applications they tend to overstabilize (maintain the angle at which they were fired) and, therefore, do not follow the trajectory satisfactorily.

FIN-STABILIZED PROJECTILES These projectiles obtain stability through the use of fins located at the aft end of the projectile. Normally, four to six fins are employed. Additional stability is obtained by imparting some spin (approximately 20 revolutions/second) to the projectile by canting the leading edge of the fins. Fin-stabilized projectiles are very often subcaliber. A sabot, wood or metal fitted around the projectile, is used to center the projectile in the bore and provide a gas seal. Such projectiles vary from 10:1 to 15:1 in length-to-diameter ratio. Fin-stabilized projectiles are advantageous because they follow the trajectory very well at high-launch angles, and they can be designed with very low drag thereby increasing range and/or terminal velocity. However, fin-stabilized projectiles are disadvantageous because the extra length of the projectile must be accommodated and the payload volume is comparatively low in relation to the projectile length.

ROCKET-ASSISTED PROJECTILES There are two main reasons for developing rocket-assisted projectiles: (1) to extend the range over standard gun systems, and (2) to allow for lighter mount and barrel design and reduce excessive muzzle flash and smoke by reducing the recoil and setback forces of standard gun systems. Since the ranges are different, the above two objectives represent opposite approaches in the development of rocket-assisted projectiles. Normally, one or the other establishes the performance of the rocket-assisted projectile under development although some compromise in the two approaches may be established by the design objectives.

Large Caliber Ammunition - Types of Warhead

For convenience of discussion, large caliber ammunition may be be classified into five major groups: blast (including air and underwater burst), fragmentation, shaped charge, pyrotechnics, and cluster.

Blast

A blast warhead is one that is designed to achieve target damage primarily from blast effect. When a high explosive detonates, it is converted almost instantly into a gas at very high pressure and temperature. Under the pressure of the gases thus generated, the weapon case expands and breaks into fragments. The air surrounding the casing is compressed and a shock (blast) wave is transmitted into it. Typical initial values for a high-explosive weapon are 200 kilobars of pressure (1 bar = 1 atmosphere) and 5,000 degrees celsius. The energetic materials used by Department of Defense munitions produce an exothermic reaction defined either as a deflagration or a detonation. A deflagration is an exothermic reaction that propagates from the burning gases to the unreacted material by conduction, convection, and radiation. In this process, the combustion zone progresses through the material at a rate that is less than the velocity of sound in the unreacted material.

In contrast, a detonation is an exothermic reaction that is characterized by the presence of a shock wave in the material that establishes and maintains the reaction. A distinctive difference is that the reaction zone propagates at a rate greater than sound velocity in the unreacted material. Every material capable of detonating has a characteristic velocity that is under fixed conditions of composition, temperature, and density.

The violent release of energy from a detonation in a gaseous medium gives a sudden pressure increase in that medium. The pressure disturbance, termed the blast wave, is characterized by an almost instantaneous rise from the ambient pressure to a peak incident pressure (Pso). This pressure increase, or shock front, travels radially from the burst point with a diminishing velocity that always is in excess of the sonic velocity of the medium. Gas molecules making up the front move at lower velocities. This latter particle velocity is associated with a "dynamic pressure," or the pressure formed by the winds produced by the shock front.

As the shock front expands into increasingly larger volumes of the medium, the peak incident pressure at the front decreases and the duration of the pressure increases. If the shock wave impinges on a rigid surface oriented at an angle to the direction of propagation of the wave, a reflected pressure is instantly developed on the surface and the pressure is raised to a value that exceeds the incident pressure. The reflected pressure is a function of the pressure in the incident wave and the angle formed between the rigid surface and the plane of the shock front.

When an explosion occurs within a structure, the peak pressure associated with the initial shock front will be extremely high and, in turn, will be amplified by reflections within the structure. In addition, the accumulation of gases from the explosion will exert additional pressures and increase the load duration within the structure. The combined effects of both pressures eventually may destroy the structure if it is not strengthened sufficiently or adequate venting for the gas and the shock pressure is not provided, or both. For structures that have one or more strengthened walls, venting for relief of excessive gas or shock pressures, or both, may be provided by means of openings in or frangible construction of the remaining walls or roof, or both. This type of construction will permit the blast wave from an internal explosion to spill over onto the exterior ground surface. These pressures, referred to as exterior or leakage pressures, once released from their confinement, expand radially and act on structures or persons, or both, on the other side of the barrier.

Conventional structures are designed to withstand roof snow loads of 30 pounds per square foot (1.44 kilopascals) and wind loads of 100 miles per hour (161 kilometers per hour). The loads equate to 0.2 pounds per square inch (psi). An important consideration in the analysis of explosions is the effect of the fragments generated by the explosion. These fragments are known as primary or secondary fragments depending on their origin. Primary fragments are formed as a result of the shattering of the casing of conventional munitions. These fragments usually are small in size and travel initially at velocities of the order of thousands of feet per second. Secondary fragments are formed as a result of high blast pressures on structural components and items in close proximity to the explosion. These fragments are somewhat larger in size than primary fragments and travel initially at velocities in the order of hundreds of feet per second. A hazardous fragment is one having an impact energy of 58 ft-lb (79 joules) or greater.

Fragmentation

The study of ballistics, the science of the motion of projectiles, has contributed significantly to the design of fragmentation warheads. Specifically, terminal ballistics studies attempt to determine the laws and conditions governing the velocity and distribution of fragments, the sizes and shapes that result from bursting different containers, and the damage aspects of the bursting charge fragmentation.

Approximately 30% of the energy released by the explosive detonation is used to fragment the case and impart kinetic energy to the fragments. The balance of available energy is used to create a shock front and blast effects. The fragments are propelled at high velocity, and after a short distance they overtake and pass through the shock wave. The rate at which the velocity of the shock front accompanying the blast decreases is generally much greater than the decrease in velocity of fragments, which occurs due to air friction. Therefore, the advance of the shock front lags behind that of the fragments. The radius of effective fragment damage, although target dependent, thus exceeds consid-erably the radius of effective blast damage in an air burst.

Whereas the effects of an idealized blast payload are attenuated by a factor roughly equal to 1/R3 (R is measured from the origin), the attenuation of idealized fragmentation effects will vary as 1/R2 and 1/R, depending upon the specific design of the payload. Herein lies the principle advantage of a fragment-ation payload: it can afford a greater miss distance and still remain effective because its attenuation is less.

Anti-personnel fragmentation munitions are designed to destroy or maim personnel or to damage material enough to render it inoperable. In the area of field artillery, the flechette or beehive round is an example of an anti-personnel warhead. The payload in this projectile consists of 8,000 steel-wire, fin-stabilized darts. Upon detonation the darts, or flechettes, are sprayed radially from the point of detonation, normally within sixty feet of the ground. It is extremely effective against personnel in the open or in dense foliage.

Shaped Charge

The discovery of what is variously referred to as the shaped charge effect, the hollow charge effect, the cavity effect, or the Munroe effect, dates back to the 1880s in this country. Dr. Charles Munroe, while working at the Naval Torpedo Station at Newport, Rhode Island, in the 1880s, discovered that if a block of guncotton with letters countersunk into its surface was det-onated with its lettered surface against a steel plate, the let-ters were indented into the surface of the steel. The essential features of this effect were also observed in about 1880 in both Germany and Norway, although no great use was made of it, and it was temporarily forgotten.

A shaped charge warhead consists basically of a hollow liner of metal material, usually copper or aluminum of conical, hemispherical, or other shape, backed on the convex side by explosive. A container, fuze, and detonating device are included.

When this warhead strikes a target, the fuze detonates the charge from the rear. A detonation wave sweeps forward and begins to collapse the metal cone liner at its apex. The collapse of the cone results in the formation and ejection of a continuous high-velocity molten jet of liner material. Velocity of the tip of the jet is on order of 8,500 meters per sec, while the trail-ing end of the jet has a velocity on the order of 1,500 meters per sec. This produces a velocity gradient that tends to stretch out or lengthen the jet. The jet is then followed by a slug that consists of about 80% of the liner mass. The slug has a velocity on the order of 600 meters per sec.

When the jet strikes a target of armor plate or mild steel, pressures in the range of hundreds of kilobars are produced at the point of contact. This pressure produces stresses far above the yield strength of steel, and the target material flows like a fluid out of the path of the jet. This phenomenon is called hydrodynamic penetration. There is so much radial momentum associated with the flow that the difference in diameter between the jet and the hole it produces depends on the characteristics of the target material. A larger diameter hole will be made in mild steel than in armor plate because the density and hardness of armor plate is greater. The depth of penetration into a very thick slab of mild steel will also be greater than that into homogeneous armor.

In general, the depth of penetration depends upon five factors:

Length of jet

Density of the target material

Hardness of target material

Density of the jet

Jet precision (straight vs. divergent)

The longer the jet, the greater the depth of penetration. Therefore, the greater the standoff distance (distance from target to base of cone) the better. This is true up to the point at which the jet particulates or breaks up (at 6 to 8 cone diameters from the cone base). Particulation is a result of the velocity gradient in the jet, which stretches it out until it breaks up. Jet precision refers to the straightness of the jet. If the jet is formed with some oscillation or wavy motion, then depth of penetration will be reduced. This is a function of the quality of the liner and the initial detonation location accuracy. The effectiveness of shaped charge warheads is reduced when they are caused to rotate. Spin-stabilized projectiles generally cannot use shaped-charge warheads.

Pyrotechnics

Pyrotechnics are typically employed for signaling, illuminating, or marking targets.

Illumination--These warheads usually contain a flare or magnesium flare candle as the payload, which is expelled by a small charge and is parachuted to the ground. During its descent the flare is kindled. The illuminating warhead is thus of great usefulness during night attacks in pointing out enemy fortifications. Because these flares are difficult to extinguish if accidentally ignited, extreme caution in their handling is required.

Smoke--These munitions are used primarily to screen troop movements and play a vital role in battlefield tactics. A black powder charge ignites and expels canisters that may be designed to emit white, yellow, red, green, or violet smoke.

Markers--White phosphorus is commonly employed as a pay-load to mark the position of the enemy. It can be very dangerous, especially in heavy concentrations. The material can self-ignite in air, cannot be extinguished by water, and will rekindle upon subsequent exposure to air. Body contact can produce serious burns. Copper sulphate prevents its re-ignition.

Cluster

Cluster munitions are canisters containing dozens or hundreds of small bomblets for use against a variety of targets, such as personnel, armored ve-hicles, or ships. Once in the air, the canisters open, spreading the bomblets out in a wide pattern. The advantage of this type of warhead is that it gives a wide area of coverage, which allows for a greater margin of error in delivery.

Flechettes

Flechettes are fin stabilized steel projectiles similar in appearance to arrows. During the Korean War the Chinese army tactic of human wave attacks against US lines of defence prompted interest in flechette projectiles in single and multiple projectile systems for small arms and antipersonnel (APERS) use. Flechettes have a performance criteria very different from the conventional rifle bullet. Typical modern flechettes are small light weight steel projectiles, and the velocity lost to air resistance is generally 375 fps. per 100 Meters of flight. Unlike rifle bullets, flechettes are not spin stabilized, but use fins to achieve level flight. The flechette's long body looses rigidity on target impact and bends into a hook, often breaking off the fin portion creating an additional wound. Flechette munitions include projectiles for use in the M16 rifle, CAWS (close assault weapons system), and 12 gage shotgun, as well as the 105mm M101A1/M102 howitzer, 2.75 in. FFAR (folding fin aircraft rocket), and the 70mm Hydra-70 FFAR.

Painting and marking

All projectiles are painted, both as a means of ready identification and as a rust preventative. The basic colors used for many years were olive drab (OD) for high-explosive rounds, gray for chemical rounds, blue for practice rounds, and black for drill rounds. A system of contrasting color markings or bands in addition to the basic color has also been used to identify the particular type of high explosive or chemical used as a filler. Color coding of recently produced projectiles is somewhat different. For example, illuminating and smoke rounds are no longer painted gray, the basic color for chemical shells. Illuminating rounds are now painted basically white or olive drab, and the smoke rounds are painted green. The basic color for dummy ammunition has been changed to bronze. Projectiles containing high explosive TNT Amatol, etc.) are painted yellow. Projectiles containing chemicals (gas or smoke) are painted blue-gray. Projectiles containing low explosives (black powder) are painted red. Projectiles are also stenciled to show the caliber, type of cannon used in, ammunition lot number, kind of filling, etc

Ripping Internet Sportbooks

by jsenza

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This text is for the addicted gambler that doesn't feel like losing all his/her money.

The purpose of this text is to be able to place bets for football, baseball, basketball or whatever sport people prefer to bet on, without the risk of losing money if the team loses. Whats needed:

1) Internet sportbook that time zone allows game to be played while western union at his location is closed. (explained later)

2) 24 hour Western Union in your location.

3)Some type of knowledge of whatever sport you are betting on.

4) Money, preferably the max that the sport book allows on the first bet. usually $1,000-$5,000.

Now if you can't even come up with a grand, don't bother reading on. There was always a saying that you need money to make it. The only reason this is being posted is that basically enough money was made to quit.

Most internet sportbooks are offshore and in another time zone. What you do is open an account (use fake name incase you do this more than once), get the toll free number. Then they will ask you to fund your account. You do this by credit card or you use a Western Union Money Transfer. You tell them or email them that you want to use Western Union. You get the instructions for the transfer, then you call or go on the W.U. site to find out what time their W.U. closes, ex. 11:00p.m.

Next you pick a game that is playing "AFTER" their W.U. is closed. You send the money transfer to them right before their W.U. closes, ex. 10:55p.m. Then you call the sport book and notify them that you sent the transfer and give them the control number. They will track the number and see that you did send money, so they "will" let you place your bet.

Now if your team wins, the next day, inform the sportbook that you would like your winnings along with your original bet. They'll send it because they do want you to continue to play with them in the future.

If your team loses, just notify western union that you want to cancel your transfer, a small fee will be incurred, go to the 24 hr W.U. in your area to pick your money up. Now since the W.U. at the sportbook location is closed, they can't pick up the money. when they do go to pick it up, they will see that you cancelled the transfer, just disregard any emails or just deny that you cancelled. Just go find another internet sportbook or reuse the same guy after a month or so under another name.

Get Free Drinks or Cash

by Damifoo

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

When you're out at the shops next go to the front of the stores where they have the coke machines and stuff. Now pretend to put money in the machine. Usually i put 10 cents in or so. Now comes the fun part. Look all shit off and hit the buttons repeatedly. Storm up to the front counter and imply that the machine ate your money and didnt give you youre drink and wont refund your cash.

When the clerk asks how much you put in I usually say 2 dollars as that is the highest coin there is ;) Now usually they ask if you want your money back or a drink. Now make the decision and move to the next store ;)

Sometimes the clerk will put money in the machine and argue that his went thru. Most dont but even if they do they still give you what you want.

How to Get Free Netzero and Juno Access

A new way to have free Netzero and Juno -- since they use the same software it's easier.

ok this is how it goes but there is a catch you have to do it everytime you log on ok this is how it goes ok when you log on to netzero press Alt+Ctrl+Delete and click on Zcast and press End Task then wait till another window that comes up that says End Task on it and press and End task when you press End Task it closes your internet connection but if you are not slow and quick you press Alt+Ctrl+Delete again after closing Zcast and End Task Chkras and there you go you have free netzero if you get this then something with juno you End Task My Juno and after that you End Task Adbanner its so easy and sorry about my crappy explantion this is the best i could to if you dont get it then i guess you dont have that many brain cells and if you do then good job you got the free internet freeloader.

Free Stuff At The Movies

So you have a couple bucks and want to see a flick?

First buy a ticket for a movie you actually want to see. Go into the theater and find a cup on the floor that some slob left for you. Now go up to the concession stand, tell the kid you spilled your soda and the cup hit the the floor, so you need a new cup and soda. I have done this many times. 9 Times out of ten they gladly offer a refill. I have never gotten shit from any one when doing this the worst is they joke about it like say "how likely" and shit but still give you the soda. I have neve been refused w/ this one this also works for popcorn or whatever. If you can't find the trash, then buy one drink it "spill" it to get the refill.

So ya got the snacks and shit and ya saw your movie well why not stay for a double feture? No you dont have to pay! Just walk into the movie.I do this every time I go to see a movie and its not hard. Just do it!

Is that against the law?

For all under-age like myself, if you want to see a rated R film, bring a friend w/ id. If you have no friends go up to an adult and just ask dont give em the money till after(or never!) they buy your ticket or they might rip you off.

So after you had all of your fun and ready to go home why not get your money back?

Go up to the person who is selling the tickets. Tell em the movie sucks or there were old farts talking through the whole thing and get your money back a gift certifacite or a ticket to any movie.

Don't be an ass and do this shit every day at the same place if they have an IQ greater than that of a box of hair they'll find you out.If you ever get caught, bullshit 'em. I have done these and still do and they work its just a matter of having balls or not so try this stuff out and have fun and look for more of my files later!!

Scamming French Trains

by Toni Truant

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi if you plan to travel to europe next year,think about going to France enjoying the pleasure of laziness,getting drunk and easy sex(american accent is very sexy to french ears) don't worry about pating train no more. Just jump in the train let it start,then go BY YOURSELF talk to the controller,this way he'llthink you're honest say you lost your credit card or any kind of bullshit ,and ask them if please could they write you a ticket that you'll pay soon. Of course be nice make them feel you're really gonna pay etc etc etc.

It's necessary to show an I.D. and preferably an adress in France.What you can do is go to a police station,fill up a "declaration de perte" (declaration of loss)for your international driver's license(french cop don't bother registering U.S. lost license) tell cop you lost credit card by the way.On the declaration say your temporary adress is somewhere in France (fin some in the phone book.

If anybody ask what the fuck are you doing in this country tell them your gran-gran-dad lost his life in Normandy on june 6th 1944 and you're doing a pilgrimage for the sake of the old bastard rocking soul! French official should show at least compassion, if not the red carpet. Notice that TGV(fast train) run at 200 mph station are downtown and they're always fucking on time. Actually under 500 miles it's way better than plane.

Fight to Maim: Non-Lethal Hand to Hand Combat

Fight to Maim: Non-Lethal Hand to Hand Combat
by A Voice in England

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

In real life you must expect your opponent to be stronger than you when you study combat.Your study should be how to over come their advantages.

HERE ARE A FEW NONLETHAL FIGHTING TECHNIQUES(most of these are Korean-boo hiss communists- i know)

1.Fold your thumb in and stiffen and straighten your fingers, with this spear hand(son sonkut tulgi)ram your opponent in the solar plexus, under the brest bone.This should cause the inability to move for about 5 minutes if done hard.

2.Make a "karate chop" (knife hand-sonkal taregi)and strike the adams apple , very lightly otherwise you will kill them, this causes your enemy to gag and choke.

3.Grab your attackers wrist, as they punch you, with both hands [suppose they hit with their left hand]twist left so you have your back 2 them and slam their arm (that is now straightened with wrist veins up) onto your shoulder, thus snapping the elbow joint.

4.Use an uppercutt elbow strike to the victims chin , this will knock them out.

5.Stamp the kneecaps and as you do punch the face , only a master will see them both comeing.

6.Use a backfist (ap joolmuck taerigi) to smash the nose causing tears and sickening.

7.When facing many attacks spin away so they glance off the back.

8.Aim kicks at the stomach and knees and punches to the solar plexus and face.

AND REMEMBER ALWAYS KEEP A GOOD GUARD - 1 ARM LIKE THIS _I INFRONT AND THE OTHER ARM ACROSS THE WAIST WHILE STANDING SIDE ON.
 

Easy Way to Cheat Parking Meters

by Dali

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

If you live in any city or busy town, you probably get jacked quite often for an expired meter. In my city those parking enforcement bastards are writing you up seconds after the meter expires. And how about all the money in quarters you dish out? I bet if you added it all up you could feed a small country....those bastards are taking the food out of poor babies mouths!

Well, here is a handy way to never have to pay the parking meter and park scott-free for hours. You will get really good at this and you will never put another quarter in the meter again...(except of course when your mother is with you)

Let me first say that this does NOT work in the brand new meters that are digital. (I'm working on that)

1) park your car in front of the meter

2) while in your car, find a business card or a matchbook or any semi-thick paper. (if it's abusiness card

3)If you have a business card: tear 1 inch off of the end and 1/2 inch off of the bottom (you should have a rectangular piece of card measuring about 2-1/2 x 1-1/2 now) if you have a matchbook: open it up and tear off the cover ane half of the back (that should leave you with a 1-1/2" x 2-1/2" rectangle as well) Any piece of semi-thick paper can be torn into these dimentions. (the envelope from a parking ticket works well too!)

4) Fold the paper in half lenghth-wise and then fold it in half length-wise again. You will now have a pretty thick peice of card now measuring about 2-1/2 inches by 1/4 inch.

5) walk up to the meter (don't get nervous nobody pays any attention to someone putting change in their meter, silly) and insert the folded card into the quarter slot until the paper stops. It''s best that the card is thick and takes a little effort going into the slot. As soon as the card is about half-way in the slot, turn the crank on the meter all the way (this will take a little effort). Turning the crank will pull the card into the slot further. Turn the crank all the way until the yellow "violation" sign appears at the top and sticks. Do not try and turn the crank back in the other direction as this may kick up the red sign (ticket). The point is to jam the meter into it's "broken" position which is the yellow "voilation" sign. When the violation sign is up THEY CANNOT TICKET YOU. You can stay there indefinantely if they don't chalk you...If they chalk you (and this is VERY rare) you get about 2 hours (depending on the meter zone ie: 2 hour max etc.)

6) Tear off any ends of card that may still be protruding from the quarter slot. (if you're really socially concious you can leave it sticking out, then when you return you can pull out the entire card and the meter will be as good as new....but I wouldn't reccomend this as sometimes the metermaid will pull it out herself and then another one will come by later an give you a ticket)

7) test the crank and make sure it's jammed well...If you done it right the crank will be so jammed that you can't even turn it back)

8) go on your merry way and rejoice in the knowlege that you saved another dollar toward the starving children's fund.

Remember: when the yellow "violation" sign is up on the meter you are fine. This just means that the meter is broken and you have immunity from tickets when you're at a broken meter. After a while you will do this without even thinking about it. Remenber to keep plenty of cards or matches in your car.

Note: just in case the metermaids try to crack down on this meter-terrorism, don't have your goddam name on the cards or papers you're inserting into the meter.

Again, once you get the hang of it this system is flawless. And I really don't think the metermaids care that much either since they can easily pull the paper out when they open up the meter to collect the change.

-----

If you live in a big city that has a "Chinatown", then another great way to cheat the meter is to purchase a roll of chinese candy called "HAW FLAKES" at any chinese 5 and dime store.

Haw Flakes come in small rolls of twenty and cost about a nickel a roll. Haw Flakes WORK IN THE METERS AS QUARTERS (not the digital meters). You put in one Haw flake and GENTLY turn the crank. Sometimes they break, so just try again. They do work. Haw Flakes are mighty yummy too..but remember thier great value as money before you scarf all your quarters down. You Chinese folks out there no what the hell I'm talking about don't cha......

No worries though as the card jamming method above works very well.

Swimming Pool Lockers

Swimming Pool Lockers
by om3ga

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I don't know if U.S anarchists can relate to this as I live in England but hear me out nonetheless, even though i talk bollocks :)

In swmming pool changing rooms, there are normally loads of lockers, you know, the ones with the keys in. The customer has to put either a token or 50 pence or somthing. These used to be refundable, but some capitalist bastard thought it would be a good idea to charge the swimmers 50p every time they wanted to go in their locker. So a friend of mine told me this trick on how to get the key out every time without filling a narcs pocket with beer money.

Okay, here goes; the key should be upright when you approach the locker. [Using the "conventional method", putting in your token will allow you turn the key all the way round and be removed] But we don't wanna do that. What you do is turn the key as far anti-clockwise at it will go, then hit the key hard using the heel of your hand [hurts] or a shoe [well you aren't going swimming in your shoes are you?] and it should *click* - this should do the trick.

Another point about lockers, if you get a key and don't intend to use the locker, keep it. The management always have spares and if they see a locker that has been unopened for a few days, they will put in the spare as a replacement. This allows the holder of the original to access the chosen locker whenever someone else is using it.
 

Mailbox Info

by Poetic Psycho

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Ah the mailbox. Since the times of the Pony Express back in the 1800's, these nifty little things have been around. They were, and still are, devices for holding and storing postal mail. They come in various colors, shapes, sizes, and materials, but they all have 2 things in common

1: They all have a flag of some sort to alert the postal dude theres waiting mail inside

2: Someone, SOMEWHERE, at sometime, has thought of busting the holy living shit out of it!

Thats right bitch! You know that somewhere in your heart and soul, you've wanted to take a baseball bat, a tree limb, a stick, a rock, SOMETHING, and just beat the little fucker into tin foil! Well, as the intro states, I will explain the best ways to, and also why you shouldn't! (More on that later)

The "Pull'Em-Plenty" Method

One of the most obvious (and most hilarious) ways to destroy mailboxes is to obtain a truck (trucks vastly rule over cars for this) a chain, and about 3 Anarchy buds. After selecting the target, (and making sure its about 3:00 in the morning when the little shits inside have gone beddy bye), back as quietly up to the mailbox as possible. Hell, turn the truck off, put it in neutral, and have your friends push it up to the mailbox. In any case, hook the chain to the rear bumper of the truck and wrap the other end around the mailbox post. Wrap it securely now, shame to use up all that time and the fucker not even come out. Once its tied good and steady, you and your boys pile in the truck and stomp the gas! That motherfucker will (unless they cemented it) be jerked right out of the ground and you can drive off with the whole damn thing, mailbox AND the post used to hold it into the ground!

The "Plow'em-Plenty" Method

Like the above method, a truck works best. However in this case, a big metal bumper is a MUST. To perform this nifty ass trick, simply find a lonely deserted road with a lot of mailboxes in a line. Pick a starting target and then stomp the gas and plow over every fucking one of them! To REALLY make some noise, have the horn blowing the whole time. The crashing of the boxes and the horn is sure to wake up someone and then you'll have an audience! Be sure to give'em an encore..heh heh heh

The "Drive-By-Pulvarize'em-Plenty" Method

Another classic, yet more dangerous, way is the good ole' drive by method. Simply take a large blunt object (metal baseball bats are BEST!) and, having a trusted friend drive, make a run down a dark and lonely street at about 20 miles per, taking swings at every mailbox possible. The wooden ones with the dumbass tractors or cats on top are best, cause they shatter and make a hell of a mess

Now that I've explained some of the ways to bust up on some mailboxes, let me explain why you should NOT!

--True Story--

(To protect myself from incrimination, the details such as date and time and passangers are changed, but weapon of destruction and legal troubles are the same)

Late one July night at about 3:12, me and 2 of my friends (17 and 14) decided to go for a joyride. Nothing much, just riding around. Not much to do, its a boring old farm community so its not like anythings going on. Anyway, I got the brilliant idea that it would be fun to destroy a few mailboxes, just for fun you know? My neighboors metal baseball bat was already in the car, so we were set! We found us a lonely country road and took over, my friend driving along at about 30 m.p.h. while I held the bat. We'd come close to a mailbox...BAMM!! Bash the fucker, then roar off into the night to seek another target. After about the 6th house, we noticed a truck behind us. a car-truck chase ensues and since my little car is much faster and more maneuverable than that big ass clunker truck, we got away right?

WRONG! Dumbshits as we were, we forgot the faggot probably got our license. This was confirmed later when a sheriffs car pulled into the yard and promptly ordered the three of us to go with him to the station. Awaking my mom, she took the younger comrade while me and my 17 year old bud rode together in the cop car.

Now, for any of you that think busting a mailbox is no big deal, THINK AGAIN! Me and the 17 year old got a free night in jail for that shit and $3,000 bail. 6 mailboxes x $500.00 per offense. After a few months, our court date came around. I got First Offender Plea Bargain and the court settled on 12 months probation and an $875.00 fine plus restitution of all the mailboxes, which amounted to almost $300.00. The judge told me without the bargain, I could liekly be facing 6 years in a state prison.

6 YEARS!? You say? Bullshit! Not so bitch! The maximum penalty (I think) is 12 months in a state prison per offense, 6 offenses = 6 years. As I found out, Destruction of Mailboxes is a FEDERAL OFFENSE because the postal service is a Federal service and since the boxes hold Federal property (your mail, believe it or not) any damage to them is considered damage to the Federal Government. And trust me, from experience, the Gov. does NOT take destruction of these damn things lightly

Mutant Insects

by Jason Tyler

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

To start with, make a large cage (20' by 20' by 8' ??) out of chicken-wire that could hold in locusts or perhaps grasshoppers, preferably over grass or something similar to their natural habitat. Then gather up a few dozen of the species and place them in the cage. Leave them alone for a few weeks (or more) to generate, breed, populate, have sex, or whatever you call it while you call around and get a list of all the common pesticides/insecticides (I'll refer to them as P/I) used in that area. Buy a gallon or so of each one, and a good spray bottle (or something to distribute the P/I).

When the insects have grown to a few hundred in population, spray the area (insect cage) with less than the recommended dosage on the P/I directions, or enough to kill about half of the insects (make sure the P/I is evenly distributed so every insect gets the same amount). Then let the insects regenerate to a few hundred or so, and repeat the process.

If you don't understand so far, the reason behind this is some of the insects were naturally more immune to the P/I to begin with than other insects. Exposing the insects to the P/I will only kill the insects that weren't very immune to P/I. This only leaves the insects with the "good" genes, and they will breed and (hopefully) have offspring with the same, or better, genes.

After this process is repeated about a dozen times (this might take from a couple months to half a year), let the insects into the wild and see what happens. If you're lucky, many farmers will start to lose their crops because the insects have built up an immunuty to their P/I and are rapidly spreading thier genes to wild insects. If all goes well, you'll have the whole county in panic and they won't know what hit them!

Picking Master Locks

The locks that have the keyhole on the back and have a serial number of "Vxx" are uncrackable by the method used by d4ftv4dd3r, but are some of the easiest locks that you can possibly pick.

All that you need to pick these locks is a bobby pin and a flathead screwdriver approx. 3mm wide. To pick the lock put the screw driver in the vertical slot at the bottom of the lock, and put the bobby pin in the slot with the pins. Turn the screw driver so that the lock is turning clockwise and just sort of wiggle the bobby pin up and down to lock up the pins. If you do it right the lock should rotate 90 degrees and you should be able to open the lock.

A problem I ran into is that the lock would only turn if i had exactly the right sized screw driver. Make sure the flathead screwdrive you use is perfectly square, and does not start thin at the top and get wider.

If you want to learn how to correctly pick a lock i would advise you to go to http://www.lysator.liu.se/mit-guide/mit-guide.html . There is some reading involved but its the best site i can find.

If these locks are used in your school than the same key is used to open them all, so if you can pick one, you can pick them all

A Weakness in Cheap Imitation Combinations Locks

by B|u

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

My definition of a cheap lock is a lock that is not a master lock. Usually the easiest way to tell if the lock is cheap is when the dial on the lock is a different color than black, such as blue or red or yellow. You can also tell if it's a shitty lock when you turn the dial and it doesn't rotate smoothly.

Now here is the easy part. All you need to do is remove one of your socks from your feet or bring one from home. Small towels also work and might be better because they are a little bit stronger.

Then slip the towel/sock between the horseshoe of the lock (the U shaped bent metal holding the lock to the locker) after you slip it through evenly, grab each end of the sock with you hands so you left hand is on one end of the sock and your right hand on the other.

This part requires alot of speed. As hard as you can, snap down and tug in a quick downward motion. The lock may not budge the first time, but keep tugging fast and hard and the horseshoe will come detached from the rest of the lock.

Remember it does not work on MASTER brand locks but most other cheap imitations with the turn-dial interface.

Solving Pre-1996 Master Locks

NOTE!!: If you have a patience/learning problem, jump down to "For the impatient" below. My apologies for this long and dry article.

Regarding picking Master locks in your article, :

http://www.totse.com/en/bad_ideas/locks_and_security/piklock.html

Masterlocks will not be able to be opened using the technique described with the hairpin, due to the way the the lock is constructed. They use 3 pretty heavy duty metal disks with slots in them to hold the locking mechanism in place, so unless the hairpin is strong enough to twist the metal of 2-3 disks, it won't open. However, there is a flaw to their construction.

It is possible to determine the 3rd number on any master lock built before 1996 or so to a very high degree of precision and short amount of time. First of all, a bit of theory. They way a master lock works, is when you turn the dial, you are directly turning the disk of the 3rd number of the combination. The 3rd disk in turn turns the second, and the second turns the first. That's why you have to fully rotate the dial 2 or 3 times in the clockwise direction before going to the first number, so as to make sure that the first disk is being turned. Each disk has a little nub that protrudes from it's face, the second disk having one on each face so it is able to touch both the first and third nubs. So when you turn the dial, you are turning the 3rd disk, then the nub of the 3rd disk collides with that of the second and turns the second, and then the nub on the second collides with the first and turns the first. By the way, each disk has a deep slot in it. When you enter the correct combination, in effect, you are aligning the 3 slots of the disks in the correct position. The locking mechanism can now rotate and slide into the slots of the disks, freeing the latch.

To prevent people from simply pulling on the latch and rotating the dial to feel where the slot is on the third disk, the kind people at Master installed a 4th dummy disk, with "random" notches in it. That is why when you pull on the latch of a master lock, you find that it only turns a few degrees, and then stops, with seemingly random stops every few degrees. However, with any lock built before 1996 or so (not sure of exact date), not all dummy slots are equal, and the third number is still very findable.

F O R T H E I M P A T I E N T

If you have a lock to experiment with, you will find that for every dummy slot, there is a matching dummy slot every interval of 10. For instance, if you pull on the latch and turn the dial and finds that it stops on the number "12", indeed you will find that it stops also at "22", "32" and "2". If you find another at "6", you will see that it stops also on 16, 26, and 36. So bloody what you say? Here is the deadly trick. Say for instance you find the dial stops on "3", and you jiggle the dial a little bit and find that the red arrow, with a modest amount of jiggling, can point to either side of the 3 tick. Now you test 13, and see that, jiggling it, it is the same, that the red arrow is directly centered on the 13 and you can manipulate it to point on either side of the tick. But, when you test 23, you find that the tick is to the left of the 23 tick, that with a good amount of jiggling, it is directly in the middle of 22 and 23 and can point to either.You have found the 3rd number. It is 23. To verify, you test 33, and find that it is like 13 and 3.

What may also happen is this: You find that 3, 13, and 33, instead of being directly pointed by the red arrow, are all off centered to the left a little bit, but 23 is pointed by the arrow straight on. Again, 23 is your 3rd number. It is the deviant one that is the 3rd. With newer master locks, the notches are all identical, as far as I can tell.

"Now what about the first and second numbers you bloody prick?", you say. "There's still a bajillion and a half possible combinations!!!!@!". Worry not. The people of Master were kind to the likes of us, and were lazy. Let me jump straight to it.

Let x represent the first number, y the second, and z the third, which is known. let the symbol "%" represent "modulus", which yields the remainder of a division. So for instance, 7 % 3 = 1, because the remainder of 7/3 is 1. Let this then, be known:

z % 4 = x % 4

z % 4 = (y % 4) + 2

In other words, if z is 15, than x may be 3, 7, 11, 15, 19, 23, 27, 31, etc. And y may be 1, 5, 9, 13, 17, 21, etc.

(Note: the above equation still holds true for post-1996 master locks. It's just that it's harder to find the 3rd number...)

Now, that narrowed down the combination by quite a bit. With this knowledge, anyone can open an old master lock within 20 minutes or so, with some concentration. But with proper technique, a masterlock may be broken in 7 minutes or less, depending on the combo.

Remember all that jazz about the rotating disks and all that useless information? Here's where it becomes useful. Here is a sample of how, if one forgets his masterlock combo, one would find it again.

FOR THE REEEALLLYYYY IMPATIENT

1. The 'user' finds that the third number is 17

2. The 'user' turns the dial clockwise several rotations, until he is moving all three disks. (you can actually feel when the second disk begins rotating, and the first)

3. The user continues turning clockwise and stops on the number 1, his first guess for the first number.

4. The user then begins turning the dial counter-clockwise slowly, until he feels the third disk (for he is directly turning the third disk) collide with the second disk. (Which should happen around 0 or 39, in this case)

5. The user rotates the second disk to the 3 position, his/her first guess for the second number.

6. The user then rotates the dial (and the third disk) to the predetermined 3rd number, 13.

7. The user pulls on the latch. Assuming it does not open, for that would prove to be boring, the user continues as such:

8. The user SLOWLY, rotates the dial counterclock wise until he/she feels the second dial, at the number 3 where he/she left it.

9. The user rotates counterclockwise from 3 to 7.

10. The user then rotates clockwise back to 13.

11. User pulls latch.

12. user rotates counterclockwise till the user hits the second dial at 7, and pushes it to 11.

13. user rotates clockwise back to 13.

14. user pulls latch.

As you now notice, we are saving lots, and lots of time by never touching the first disk, and moving the second disk in strategic amounts. (intervals of 4) After you have finished every combo for you first guess at the first number, rotate clockwise several times to reset the disks, and begin on your next guess for the first number, which is probably 5. This method is also very economical because absolutely no damage is done to the lock, and you can safely retrieve the working combo in the least amount of time.

If ever any of you have the time, try hacksawing one open. A vise is very helpful, but the metal armor of the lock is not too tough to get through. Just go in a big circle and hacksaw the face off. Use an old screwdriver to pry the dial off.

Impact of Artificial "Gummy" Fingers on Fingerprint Systems

Impact of Artificial "Gummy" Fingers on Fingerprint Systems

Tsutomu Matsumoto
Hiroyuki Matsumoto
Koji Yamada
Satoshi Hoshino

Graduate School of Environment and Information Sciences
Yokohama National University
79-7 Tokiwadai, Hodogaya, Yokohama 240-8501, Japan

ABSTRACT

Potential threats caused by something like real fingers, which are called fake or artificial fingers, should be crucial for authentication based on fingerprint systems. Security evaluation against attacks using such artificial fingers has been rarely disclosed. Only in patent literature, measures, such as "live and well" detection, against fake fingers have been proposed. However, the providers of fingerprint systems usually do not mention whether or not these measures are actually implmented in emerging fingerprint systems for PCs or smart cards or portable terminals, which are expected to enhance the grade of personal authentication necessary for digital transactions. As researchers who are pursuing secure systems, we would like to discuss attacks using artificial fingers and conduct experimental research to clarify the reality. This paper reports that gummy fingers, namely artificial fingers that are easily made of cheap and readily available gelatin, were accepted by extremely high rates by particular fingerprint devices with optical or capacitive sensors. We have used the molds, which we made by pressing our live fingers against them or by processing fingerprint images from prints on glass surfaces, etc. We describe how to make the molds, and then show that the gummy fingers, which are made with these molds, can fool the fingerprint devices.

Keywords: biometrics, fingerprint, live and well detection, artificial finger, fingerprint image.

1. INTRODUCTION

Biometrics is utilized in individual authentication techniques which identify individuals, i.e., living bodies by checking physiological or behavioral characteristics, such as fingerprints, voice, dynamic signatures, etc. Biometric systems are said to be convenient because they need neither something to memorize such as passwords or something to carry about such as ID cards. In spite of that, a user of biometric systems would get into a dangerous situation when her/his biometric data are abused. That is to say, the user cannot frequently replace or change her/his biometric data to prevent the abuse because of limits of biometric data intrinsic to her/himself. Therefore, biometric systems must protect the electronic information for biometrics against abuse, and also prevent fake biometrics.

We have focused on fingerprint systems since they have become widespread as authentication terminals for PCs or smart cards or portable terminals. Some of fingerprint systems may positively utilize artificial fingers as substitutes in order to solve the problem that a legitimate user cannot access, for example, when s/he gets injured on her/his fingertip in an accident.12 Some other cases include dry fingers, worn fingers, and other fingers with a low-quality fingerprint. However, the users of those systems would run a risk because artificial fingers can be stolen and used by other persons if the systems are utilized for a security application. Except for the above-mentioned cases, fingerprint systems generally must reject artificial fingers. In order to reject them, fingerprint systems should take measures to examine some other features intrinsic to live fingers than those of fingerprints. These measures are called "live and well detection 9, 15, 20, 23, 26"and have been proposed mainly in patent literature.13 Although a number of fingerprint systems have come into wide use, it is not clear whether or not these measures are actually implemented in commercial fingerprint systems. Moreover, as far as we know, security evaluation against attacks using fake fingers has been rarely disclosed. In connection, some researchers reported, in 1998, that four of the six fingerprint systems with optical devices accepted silicone fingers.19 After that, some measures against silicone fingers may have been taken in fingerprint systems. But, someone might object that fingerprint systems with capacitive devices can prevent fake fingers, so they are secure.

Previous to our experiments described in this paper, we made silicone fingers, and then checked fingerprint systems with them. From the results, we ascertained that all the systems with a capacitive sensor and some systems with an optical sensor could reject the silicone fingers. Also, we confirmed that an inked fingerprint on a paper could be accepted by one of fingerprint systems. A series of our preliminary experiments brought up a question whether or not "live and well" functions are actually implemented in commercial fingerprint systems. Finally, we have carried out experiments with artificial fingers to inquire into the fact.9,16,27-29 In this paper we discuss security evaluation of fingerprint systems, especially for its resistance against artificial fingers. Here, the term "fake fingers" may be widely used to refer fingers which are used to deceive fingerprint systems. However, we use the term "artificial fingers" to refer fingers which are artificially produced because "fake fingers" may include fingers which are modified from live fingers. In addition, we use the term "live fingers" to mean fingers which are part of living bodies.

2. FINGERPRINT SYSTEMS

2.1 Fingerprint Systems

The principle of fingerprint systems is schematically illustrated in Fig. 2.1. In an enrollment process, the system captures finger data from an enrollee with sensing devices, extracts features from the finger data, and then record them as template with a personal information, e.g. a personal identification number (PIN), of the enrollee into a database. We are using the word "finger data" to mean not only features of the fingerprint but also other features of the finger, such as "live and well" features. In an identification (or verification) process, the system captures finger data from a finger with sensing devices, extracts features, identifies (or verifies) the features by comparing with templates in the database, and then outputs a result as "Acceptance" only when the features correspond to one of the templates.

Most of fingerprint systems utilize optical or capacitive sensors for capturing fingerprints.3, 10, 14, 22 These sensors detect difference between ridges and valleys of fingerprints. Optical sensors detect difference in reflection. Capacitive sensors, by contrast, detect difference in capacitance. Some systems utilize other types of sensors, such as thermal sensors, ultrasound sensors.6, 15, 24 In this paper we examine fingerprint systems which utilize optical or capacitive sensors.

2.2 A Risk Analysis for Fingerprint Systems

Generally, fingerprint systems capture images of fingerprints, extract features from the images, encrypt the features, transmit them on communication lines, and then store them as templates into their database. Some systems encrypt templates with a secure cryptographic scheme and manage not whole original images but compressed images. Therefore, it is said to be difficult to reproduce valid fingerprints by using the templates. Some systems are secured against a so-called replay attack in which an attacker copies a data stream from a fingerprint scanner to a server and later replays it, with an one time protocol or a random challenge response device. We are here not concerned with the security for the communication and database of fingerprint systems, assuming that they are secure enough by being protected with some encryption schemes. In this section, we would like to address security of fingerprint scanners.

When a legitimate user has registered her/his live finger with a fingerprint system, there would be several ways to deceive the system. In order to deceive the fingerprint system, an attacker may present the following things to its fingerprint scanner.

(1) The registered finger: The highest risk is being forced to press the live finger against the scanner by an armed criminal, or under duress. Another risk is being compelled the legitimate user to fall asleep with a sleeping drug, in order to make free use of her/his live finger. There are some deterrent techniques against these crimes. Combination with another authentication method, such as by PINs, passwords, or ID cards, would be helpful to deter the crimes.20 Furthermore, a duress control enables the users to alarm "as under duress" with a secret code or manner, which is different with a PIN or usual manner respectively. Combining a duress control with a fingerprint system would provide a helpful measure to apply to someone for protection. Similarly, a two persons control, namely a two persons rule, where the authentication process requires two persons properties, i.e., fingerprints, or would be helpful to deter the crimes.

(2) An unregistered finger (an imposter's finger): An attack against authentication systems by an imposter with his own biometrics is referred to as non-effort forgery.26 Commonly, accuracy of authentication of fingerprint systems are evaluated by the false rejection rate (FRR) and the false acceptance rate (FAR).1, 2 The FAR is important indicator for the security against such a method as with an unregistered finger. Moreover, fingerprints are usually categorized as "loops," "whorls," "arches," and others. If an attacker knows what category of the registered finger is, an unregistered finger of which pattern is similar to the registered one would be presented to the scanner. In this case, the probability of the acceptance may be different from the ordinary FAR. From this point of view, the accuracy of authentication for the system should be evaluated not only, as usual, for fingers throughout the categories of fingerprints but also for fingers within each category. Another attacker may modify his fingerprint by painting, cutting, or injuring his own fingertip. However, it is thought to be very difficult to deceive the fingerprint system with such a modified finger. The reason for this is that fingerprints are so random the attacker cannot identify which patterns should be modified. Ordinarily, ten-odd features, such as ridge's and valley's distinctive patterns are used for the authentication.

(3) A severed fingertip from the registered finger: A horrible attack may be performed with the finger which is severed from the legitimate user's hand. Even if the finger severed from the user's half-decomposed corpse, the attacker may use, for the wrong purpose, a scientific crime detection technique to clarify its fingerprint.6 In the same way as the above-mentioned registered finger, combination with another authentication method, or a duress/two-persons control would be helpful to deter these crimes. The detection whether the finger is alive or not would be helpful as well.

(4) A genetic clone of the registered finger: In general, it is said that identical twins do not have the same fingerprint, and neither would clones. The reason is that fingerprints are not entirely genetically determined, and rather determined in part by its pattern of nerve growth into the skin. As a result, this is not exactly the same even in identical twins. However, it is also said that fingerprints are different in identical twins, but only slightly different. If the genetic clone's fingerprint is similar to the registered finger's, an attacker may try to deceive fingerprint systems by using it. Now is the time when we must keep a close watch on such possibility with genetic engineering,

(5) An artificial clone of the registered finger: More casual attacks against fingerprint systems may use an artificial finger. An artificial finger can be produced as a printed fingerprint with a copier or a desk top publishing (DTP) technique as well as forged documents. If an attacker can make a mold of the registered finger directly modeling it, s/he can produce an artificial finger with some materials. Even if not, s/he may make a mold of the registered finger modeling its residual fingerprint at second hand, so as to produce an artificial finger. And, if an attacker can make an artificial finger which can deceive a fingerprint system, one of countermeasures against the attack obviously is the detection whether or not the finger is alive. Again, combination with another authentication method, or two-persons control would be also helpful to deter the crimes.

(6) The others: In some fingerprint systems, an error in authentication may be caused by making noise or flashing a light against the fingerprint scanner, or by heating up, cooling down, humidifying, impacting on, or vibrating the scanner outside its environmental tolerances. Some attackers may use the error to deceive the system. This method is well-known as a "fault based attack," and may be carried out with above-mentioned attacks. Furthermore, a fingerprint image may be stood out in strong relief against the scanner surface, if we spray some materials on the surface. The image would be the residual fingerprint of a registered finger. In this case, a bald thing or finger, regardless of alive or not, which are pressed on the surface, may be accepted by the fingerprint system.

As fingerprint systems come into wide use, they are still more exposed themselves to a risk of casual attacks. Apart from duress or other crimes, our great concern, in this paper, is the possibilities of attacks with artificial fingers.

2.3 Dishonest Acts with Artificial Fingers

In this section, on the assumption that artificial fingers can be accepted by fingerprint systems, we discuss dishonest acts against the system with the artificial fingers. Several patterns of dishonest acts, with artificial fingers, in a fingerprint system are shown in Table 2.1. In this table, L(X) and L(Y) denote live fingers of persons X and Y respectively. A(X) and A(Y) denote artificial fingers which are molded after L(X) and L(Y) respectively. A(Z) denotes artificial fingers which are created artificially without being molded after live fingers. There may be at the total of 25 possible combinations because we can enroll and verify each of L(X), L(Y), A(X), A(Y) and A(Z) in the system. However, we show 15 in 25 combinations and focus on 5 combinations, from (1) to (5), in the table on the following assumptions;

Table 2.1 Several patterns of dishonest acts with artifical fingers in a fingerprint system

Verification / Identification Enrollment L(X) A(X) L(Y) A(Y) A(Z) L(X) (1) (2) - * - - A(Y) - - (3) (4) - A(Z) - - - - (5)

Only X can enroll fingers in the system, but X cannot enroll Y's live finger L(Y), the fingers must be enrolled with a genuine X's PIN, and X can obtain and enroll A(Y) and A(Z) in the system. The case (1) is the proper way in the system. The case (2) or (5) is also the proper way in some systems which positively utilize artificial fingers. However, we discuss dishonest acts of artificial fingers regarding the cases from (2) to (5) as dishonest ways. The possible dishonest acts are:

Some other persons than X can pretend, in the system, to be X by presenting artificial fingers in all the cases of (2), (4) and (5), and Y can pretend, in the system, to be X by presenting her/his own fingers L(Y) in the case (3).

In addition, X can deny the participation showing by means of evidence that her/his own live fingers cannot be accepted by the system, when the dishonest act was detected in the cases (3), (4) and (5).

Most discussion on dishonest acts with artificial fingers have mainly focused on the case (2). However, it should be noted that the dishonest acts, which correspond to the cases (4) and (5), can be done if artificial fingers are accepted by the system. The cases (3), (4) and (5) can be probably prevented by a practical measure that enrollment is closely watched to prevent using artificial fingers. Moreover, dishonest acts which correspond to the cases, from (2) to (5), never occur if the system can successfully reject artificial fingers.

Accuracy of authentication of fingerprint systems are commonly evaluated by the false rejection rate (FRR) and the false acceptance rate (FAR).1, 2 In Table 2.1, the case (1) and the case indicated by the sign '*' correspond to those which are commonly evaluated by the FRR and FAR in its ordinary performance test for live finger samples, respectively. It is important that the acceptance rate for the cases from (2) to (5) should be evaluated if the system cannot perfectly reject artificial fingers.

3. EXPERIMENTS

3.1 How to make Artificial Fingers

There are several major ways to make an artificial finger of a given live finger, as shown in Fig. 3.1. First of all, an impression must be obtained from the live finger. The fingerprint image of the impression is mostly the lateral reversal, i.e., transposed with the others. The captured image of the gummy finger in Fig. 4.2 is very similar to that of the live fingerprint images of a live finger and a gummy finger, which were displayed by the system with Device H (equipped with a capacitive sensor), are shown in Fig. 4.3. While some defects are observed in the image (right side) of a gummy finger, both of the images are similar to each other. Here, the reason why we do not present the image of a silicone finger is that it lannot be accepted by the system with Device H.

[2 pages missing. See: http://www.itu.int/itudoc/itu-t/workshop/security/present/s5p4.pdf]

How to make an Artifical Finger

Materials:

Bag of Free Molding Plastic 35g and Gelatin Sheet 30g

To make the mold:

Put Free Molding Plastic in Water to soften and form into small ball

Press Live Finger into Plastic ball

Wait Ten minutes

This creates a mold of the live finger

To Make the Finger:

Add 30cc's of boiling water to 30g's of Gelatin and stir in a glass jar, takes about 20 minutes

Pour Gelatin into plastic finger mold

Put it in a refrigerator to cool for about 10 minutes

Presto: The Gummy Finger

4.1.2 Acceptance Rates of the Artificial Fingers

The results of the experiments for the artificial fingers, which were cloned with molds, are shown in Fig 4.4. It was found through the experiments that we could enroll the gummy fingers in all of the 11 types of fingerprint systems. It was also found that all of the fingerprint systems accepted the gummy fingers in their verification procedures with the probability of 68-100%.

4.2 Cloning from a Residual Fingerprint

4.2.1 Artificial Fingers

Figure 4.5 (a) shows the outside appearance of the mold which we used in our experiments. Figure 4.5 (b) shows a photograph of the gummy finger which was produced from a residual fingerprint on a glass plate, enhancing it with a cyanoacrylate adhesive. We applied a technique for processing printed circuit boards to the production of the molds for cloning the gummy fingers. The fingerprint image of the gummy finger, which was displayed by the system with Device H (equipped with a capacitive sensor), is shown in Fig. 4.6.

4.2.2. Acceptance Rates of the Artificial Fingers

The results of the experiments for an artificial finger, which was cloned from a residual fingerprint, are shown in Fig. 4.7. As a result, we could enroll the gummy finger in all of the 11 types of fingerprint systems. It was found that all of the fingerprint systems accepted the gummy finger in their verification procedures with the probability of more than 67%.

4.3 Discussions

The number of samples in the experiments is so small that we cannot compare performance of the fingerprint systems. However, the number of samples is enough for us to see evidence that the gummy fingers could be accepted by commercial fingerprint systems. Based on our analysis, these variations may be caused by deformation of gummy fingers. We found that some of artificial fingers were damaged while being heated by the fingerprint sensors in the experiments. Some of the sensors frequently heated up when repeating verification in a short period. We think that the number of acceptance will increase if we pause for cooling every time after verification. We mentioned, in section 3.2, that the gummy fingers can be modified their shape to fit the scanning area. Accordingly, we cut the gummy fingers to fit the sensing area for some devices. This might cause decrease of errors in positioning the gummy fingers. Another reason why the number of acceptance varies is that we allowed retrying in enrollment. Finally, all of gummy fingers could be enrolled in the end in our experiments, even if the systems employ some protection. Also, the number of acceptance of live fingers is greater than that of gummy fingers for some systems that may employ so-called live and well detection.

We have investigated the difference in characteristics of live, gummy and silicone fingers. While silicone fingers were impossible to measure, the moisture and electric resistance of the gummy fingers could be measured as shown in Table 4.1. We used a moisture meter, and a digital multimeter (range: from 0 to 40 Mohms). According to this comparison, gummy fingers are more similar to live fingers in their characteristics than silicone fingers. The compliance was also examined for live and gummy fingers as shown in Fig. 4.8. Here, the compliance indicated by the change in resonance frequency (i.e., tactile sensor output) as the function of the pressure (i.e., pressure sensor output). In brief, Fig. 4.8 shows that the live finger is softer than the gummy finger. We found that these fingers are clearly different in compliance.8

If "live and well" detectors can clearly distinguish their moisture, electric resistance, transparency or bubble content (i.e., bubble rich material or not) between live fingers and gummy fingers, fingerprint systems can reject gummy fingers. Also, detection of compliance would be helpful for preventing gummy fingers. Furthermore, some of measures which have been proposed in patent literature may be useful in preventing gummy fingers.

5. CONCLUSIONS

In this paper, we illustrated a risk analysis for fingerprint systems. The risk analysis revealed that there are many attack ways to deceive the systems, even if their templates and communication are protected by a secure measure. Conventional arguments tend to focus on a question how to detect use of artificial fingers, which derive from live fingers of legitimate users. However, as we pointed out, there can be various dishonest acts using artificial fingers against the systems. We also pointed out that artificial fingers can be made not only of silicone but also of gelatin, and examined 11 types of fingerprint systems whether or not they accept the gummy fingers. Consequently, all of these systems accepted the gummy fingers all in their enrollment procedures and also with the rather higher probability in theirverification procedures. The results are enough for us to see evidence that artificial fingers can be accepted by commercial fingerprint systems. The objection will no doubt be raised that it is very difficult to take an impression of the live finger from a legitimate user without the cooperation of her/him. Therefore, we demonstrated that the gummy fingers made from residual fingerprints can be accepted by all of the 11 systems.

After we started this study, we come to know by the published book, that Dutch researchers reported that an artificial finger, which was made of silicone rubber, putting saliva on its surface can be accepted by fingerprint systems with capacitive devices. Their study and ours share certain similarities in that both intend to encourage the suppliers and users of fingerprint systems to reconsider security of their systems. While their study is seen to be of use in designing fingerprint systems, unfortunately, details of the experimental conditions have not been described.

As we mentioned, a user of biometric systems cannot frequently replace or change her/his biometric data because of limits of biometric data intrinsic to her/himself. For example, gelatin, i.e., an ingredient of gummies, and soft plastic materials are easy to obtain at grocery stores and hobby shops, respectively. The fact that gummy fingers, which are easy to make with cheap, easily obtainable tools and materials, can be accepted suggests review not only of fingerprint systems but also of biometric systems. Manufacturers and vendors of biometric systems should carefully examine the security of their systems against artificial clones. Also, they should make public results of their examination, which lead users of their system to a deeper understanding of the security. The experimental study on the gummy fingers will have considerable impact on security assessment of fingerprint systems.

Declaration: We would like to stress that this study intends to encourage the suppliers and users of fingerprint systems to reconsider security of their systems, not to criticize libelously fingerprint systems for their security, and not to compare their performance.17 For this purpose, we have collected, for our experiments, as many fingerprint systems commercially vailable as we could, and have detailed their specification and the experimental conditions.

ACKNOWLEDGMENT

The authors thank Yuldko Endo for her assistance in the experiments. This research was partially supported by MEXT Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research 13224040 (Tsutomu Matsu

REFERENCES

1. AfB and ICSA: 1998 Glossary of Biometric Terms, Association for Biometrics and International Computer Security Association, to be referred at URL: http://www.afb.org.uk/ (1998).

2. ANSI A9.84-2001, Biometrics Information Management and Security (2001).

3. Bahuguna, R.D. and Corboline, T.: Prism fingerprint sensor that uses a holographic optical element, APPLIED OPTICS, Vol. 35, No. 26 (1996).

4. Bicz, W. et al.: Fingerprint structure imaging based on an ultrasound camera, http://www.optel.com.pl/article/english/article.htm, July 1 (2000).

5. Bovelander, E. and van Renesse, R. L.: An Introduction to Biometrics, in Chip Card: Trump Card? Consequences for investigation and prosecution 2nd Edition, Knopjs, F. and Lakeman, P. J. eds., Politie, Amsterdam (1999).

6. Collins, C. G.: Problems and Practices in Fingerprinting the Dead, FINGERPRINT SCIENCE: How to Roll, Classify, File and Use Fingerprints, Copperhouse Bublishing Company, ISBN 0-942728-18-1, Chapter 11, pp. 131-165:(1998).

7. ECOM: Report by the Working Group on PersonalAuthentication (WG6) Ver. 1.0, Electronic Commerce Promotion of Japan (ECOM), April 27 (1998).

[2 pages missing.]

How to make a mold

We make molds, which are made by photolithographic processes, of live fingers, and then make artificial fingers, which are made of gelatin, with the molds.

We make molds by the following procedures.

Making a mask

(1) Press the live finger against a glass plate so as to make its residual fingerprint.

(2) Enhance this latent fingerprint with a cyanoacrylate adhesive. If you put the adhesive with the glass plate intolairtight container, it will keep for quite a long time. Wait for a minute. The fingerprint will stand clearly outlined against the glass plate.

(3) Capture an image of the fingerprint with a digital microscopic camera (e.g., KEYENCE; VH-6300, 900k pixels). Set the fingerprint image right side left, and make its contrast better with an image processing software (e.g., Adobe; Photoshop 6.0).

(4) Print the fingerprint image in a transparency sheet with an inkjet printer (e.g., Canon; BJ-F800, 1200x600dpi). It can be used for a mask.

Making a mold

(1) Prepare a photo sensitive coated PCB, and fix the mask so that its printed surface is attached on the PCB. Exose an UV light source for 6 minutes to copy the mask to the photo resist layer of the PCB. Caution: The UV light are harmful for your eyes and you shouldn't look it many time, or any at all.

(2) Develop the PCB to remove all the unnecessary photo resist, and expose the unnecessary copper.

(3) Etch the developed PCB to remove all the unnecessary copper, and get only the fingerprint. Finally, the mold for artificial fingers can be obtained.

Making an artiflicial finger

We make artificial fingers by the following procedures.

(1) Add boiling water (30cc) to solid gelatin (24 grams) in a bottle and mix up them. Cap the bottle and wait till mixture forms a gel as it cools, and then melt to form a sol by heating with a microwave oven. After that, cool down to form a gel and heat up to form a sol several times to reduce bubbles, if necessary. As a result of this procedure, a liquid in which immersed gelatin at around 40 wt.% (a sol) will be obtained.

(2) Prepare a mold, and drip the liquid onto the mold. Remove carefully bubbles which are formed around the base of the mold, if necessary.

(3) Put this mold into a refrigerator to cool, and wait for about ten minutes till the liquid changes back to a gel. Peel carefully the gel (i.e., artificial finger) from the mold.

Repeat (2) and (3) to make the gummy fingers.

APPENDIX B

B. Fingerprint Systems

The list of fingerprint devices and the procedures for the fingerprint systems are shown in APPENDIX B.1, and B.2, respectively.

(Omitted)

Note 1: DFRTM is a registered trademark of Compaq Computer Corporation. Windows TM is a registered trademark of Microsoft Corporation. FingerTIP TM is a registered trademark of Siemens AG (Infineon Technlogies AG). U.ar.UTM is a registered trademark of DigitalPersona, Inc. SecuGenTM and SecuDesktopTM are a registered trademarks of SecuGen Corporation. EthenticatorTM is a registered trademark of Ethentica Inc.

Note 2: All contents of this table are based on our investigation on attached catalogs, web sites in the references, etc.

[Chart image (355KB)]

B.2 The Procedures for the Fingerprint Systems

The followings give the procedures for each fingerprint device.

Device A: We enroll a finger as a template in the system. And then, enrollment will be finished if the template can be verified in a subsequent verification. We used a logon sequence, which is a function of the system, to know whether the system accepts the finger or not. Fingerprint images are displayed on the screen of the PC both in enrollment an in verification.

Device B: We enroll a finger four times in the system to make a template. We can check whether the template in good condition by activating a verification function. We used this function to know whether the system accepts the finger or not Fingerprint images are not displayed on the screen ofthe PC.

Device C: We enroll a finger three times in the system to make a template. And then, we exit the application of the fingerprint system. We can encounter a verification procedure when we start the application again. We used this procedure to know whether the system accepts the finger or not. Fingerprint images are displayed on the screen of the PC only in enrollment.

Device D: We enroll a finger four times in the system to make a template. We used a logon sequence, which is a function of the system, to know whether the system accepts the finger or not. Fingerprint images are displayed on the screen of the PC only in enrollment.

Device E: We enroll a finger as a template in the system. We can check whether the template is in good condition by activating a verification function. We used this function to know whether the system accepts the finger or not. Fingerprint images are displayed on the screen of the PC both in enrollment and in verification.

Device F: We enroll a finger four times in the system to make a template. We used a logon sequence, which is a function of the system, to know whether the system accepts the finger or not. Fingerprint images are displayed on the screen of the PC only in enrollment.

Device G: The system is the same as that of Device C.

Device H: We enroll a finger three times in the system to make a template. We can check whether the template is in good condition by activating a verification function. We used this function to know whether the system accepts the finger or not. Fingerprint images are displayed on the screen of the PC both in enrollment and in verification.

Device I: We enroll a finger four times in the system to make a template. We can check whether the template is in good condition by activating a verification function. We used this function to know whether the system accepts the finger or not. Fingerprint images are displayed on the screen of the PC only in enrollment.

Device J: We enroll a finger two times in the system to make a template. We used a logon sequence, which is a function of the system, to know whether the system accepts the finger or not. Fingerprint images are displayed on the screen f the PC only in enrollment.

Device K: We enroll a finger three times in the system to make a template. We used a logon sequence entering the user's ID, activating a verification function, to know whether the system accepts the finger or not. Fingerprint images are displayed on the screen of the PC only in enrollment, but not in verification.

From Bruce Schneier's Crypto-Gram, 15 May 2002

Fun with Fingerprint Readers

Tsutomu Matsumoto, a Japanese cryptographer, recently decided to look at biometric fingerprint devices. These are security systems that attempt to identify people based on their fingerprint. For years the companies selling these devices have claimed that they are very secure, and that it is almost impossible to fool them into accepting a fake finger as genuine. Matsumoto, along with his students at the Yokohama National University, showed that they can be reliably fooled with a little ingenuity and $10 worth of household supplies.

Matsumoto uses gelatin, the stuff that Gummi Bears are made out of. First he takes a live finger and makes a plastic mold. (He uses a free-molding plastic used to make plastic molds, and is sold at hobby shops.) Then he pours liquid gelatin into the mold and lets it harden. (The gelatin comes in solid sheets, and is used to make jellied meats, soups, and candies, and is sold in grocery stores.) This gelatin fake finger fools fingerprint detectors about 80% of the time.

His more interesting experiment involves latent fingerprints. He takes a fingerprint left on a piece of glass, enhances it with a cyanoacrylate adhesive, and then photographs it with a digital camera. Using PhotoShop, he improves the contrast and prints the fingerprint onto a transparency sheet. Then, he takes a photo-sensitive printed-circuit board (PCB) and uses the fingerprint transparency to etch the fingerprint into the copper, making it three-dimensional. (You can find photo-sensitive PCBs, along with instructions for use, in most electronics hobby shops.) Finally, he makes a gelatin finger using the print on the PCB. This also fools fingerprint detectors about 80% of the time.

Gummy fingers can even fool sensors being watched by guards. Simply form the clear gelatin finger over your own. This lets you hide it as you press your own finger onto the sensor. After it lets you in, eat the evidence.

Matsumoto tried these attacks against eleven commercially available fingerprint biometric systems, and was able to reliably fool all of them. The results are enough to scrap the systems completely, and to send the various fingerprint biometric companies packing. Impressive is an understatement.

There's both a specific and a general moral to take away from this result. Matsumoto is not a professional fake-finger scientist; he's a mathematician. He didn't use expensive equipment or a specialized laboratory. He used $10 of ingredients you could buy, and whipped up his gummy fingers in the equivalent of a home kitchen. And he defeated eleven different commercial fingerprint readers, with both optical and capacitive sensors, and some with "live finger detection" features. (Moistening the gummy finger helps defeat sensors that measure moisture or electrical resistance; it takes some practice to get it right.) If he could do this, then any semi-professional can almost certainly do much much more.

More generally, be very careful before believing claims from security companies. All the fingerprint companies have claimed for years that this kind of thing is impossible. When they read Matsumoto's results, they're going to claim that they don't really work, or that they don't apply to them, or that they've fixed the problem. Think twice before believing them.