How to

Breaking a Master Lock

2007-12-19T06:20:00.000-08:00

Breaking a Master Lock
by Richard Rastetter

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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
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A couple of weeks ago I wanted to open a Masterlock. After reading those long articles on how to "crack" the combination, I tried it, and failed. Then I saw the article about drilling into it, that sounds fast, but it requires a drill, and knowledge on where to drill, plus if the lock is on a locker, it is kinda hard to flip the lock around and drill. I came up with my own way (to my knowledge) using a screwdriver, and maybe 2 minutes

Anyway, You need:

1 flathead screwdriver, The longer the better, but the head has to be thin.

Now take the flathead screwdriver, and jam it inbetween the dial, and the metal lock, Pry it down, lifting the dial up.

The dial should be immobile now because it should be bent. Just keep going around the lock prying up, it should pop off after 10 prys

Now with the insides, I am sure there is a better way, but what i did is I took the screwdriver, and stuck it in, and just tore everything I could out of the lock After a minute, I removed enough for the shackle to open.

I tried this on a friend at school, destroyed his lock, took his Ipod and hid it deep in his locker so that he thought someone stole it, and also so someone else doesn't steal it... he was pretty pissed off.

Text for easy beginning lock picking

2007-12-19T06:12:00.000-08:00

Text for easy beginning lock picking

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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
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***************************************
** call The Libary -The Managemnet- **
***************************************

================================
= The Science of Picking Locks =
= by: Eric The Red =
= Tiger's Lair (206)874-4115 =
================================

The advantages of picking or other skilled methods of entry are many: less
noise and hence less chance of discovery, no tell-tale signs that a violation
has even occurred, fewer tools are necessary than with most break and enter
methods, and lastly, but not leastly, it has more class...

With any of the picking methods presented here it is necessary to practice,
practice, practice. Any picking takes some time and lots of skill. Like most
other things in life, it is seldom accomplished as easily as presented on
television.

A good method for effective practice is to obtain a lock that lends itself to
dismantling and remove all but two pins (one long and one short). Follow
techniques given until you have mastered the two pin lock and then try three
pins, then four, etc. Once you have this down pat, replace the two pins with
mushroom pins and start over...

Before picking any lock, squirt a bit of graphite into the locks innards to
help free it from the binding effects of dirt and other contamination.

An overview of the pin tumbler lock:
------------------------------------
The pin tumbler lock is the most widely used lock. It offers medium to high
security and is found in doors, cars, and a host of other applications.

The principle of the pin tumbler is a series of tumblers resembling small
pins (usually 5) held in place by other pins resting on top of them, called
drivers,which are in turn, held in place by springs.

The tumblers, drivers, and springs are mounted in the shell of the lock and
the tumblers extend down in to the core of the lock. When the proper key is
inserted the tumblers are raised to this shear line, or division between them
and the driver pins. This shear line is located at the top of the core. When
this transpires, the core may be turned freely with the key.

If a key is cut too low, the driver pins will extend down into the core; too
high and the tumblers will extend up into the shell of the lock. In either
case, the core is help stationary and the lock stays locked. Pin tumblers
require a high degree of tolerace in lock and key making. About .002 of an
inch is required for correct functioning.

Picks:
------
The most common way to obtain lock "tools" is to have a friendly locksmith
order them for you. As much as I hate to say it, many people "become"
locksmiths themselves and order the goodies on a letterhead. Some suppliers DO
check to see if they are legit, some do not.

If you choose to skip all this worry and make your own pick set simply follow
these easy to remember rules:

Get some clock spring, or even shim stock from an auto supply house. You want
the thin type, sold in strips, not the sheets.

A good range of pick thicknesses is from .025-.035"; too thin will slip the
pins out of alignment, and too think will bind in the keyway. The most useful
pick is probably the curved variety, although straight picks have their uses...

Cut the metal on a grinding wheel, dipping it in water quite often. Take care
not to burn the metal. For the curved variety you want a slight upward curve
in the end of the pick. Do not make a gradual upswing, rather a slight, sudden
upward curve directly at the end of the tool.

The other important tool is the tension tool. This is in every way as important
as the pick(s) and must fit the job or it too will bind.

Tension bars can be constructed from the same clock/spring steel. Bend the tool
into the classic "L" shape near the end. Also make several sizes and thick-
nesses of tension tools.

Picking:
--------
(about time, eh?)
Picking locks requires two intrinsic items: A pick and a tension tool. The pick
is a thin tool cut from spring steel which ends in a slight upward curve, or a
number of other tip shapes ranging from diamonds to balls and squares. The pick
is used to raise each pin to its shear line. The most popular pick is probably
the curved pick, although you should have a variety of alternatives on hand.
There are many sets on the market containing anywhere from 5 to 200 picks and
tension tools in some sort of carrying case.

The tension tool is an "L" shaped (usually double ended) piece of spring steel.
The tension tool is inserted into the core of the lock and turned slightly in
the direction that the lock opens. This tension is maintained throughout the
picking operation (a small lead weight attached the the handle of the tool may
do this job for you and free a hand to hold a flashlight, etc). As the pins are
raised to their shear line the tension you are exerting will prevent them from
falling back down into the core.

Locks that use regular, smooth pins are the easiest to pick, and are the best
to learn with. Modern Yale, Corbin, etc., are usually equipped with special
pins to make picking a more exacting operation. It is quite essential that one
learn to pick on a smooth pinned lock before attempting the challenge of an
anti-pick lock. So...try and choose a cheaper, older lock to begin with.
(Kwikset locks are quite easy.)

Place the end of your tension tool into the keyway in such a fashion that it
does not block your access to the pins. Most locks will take the tension tool
at the bottom of the keyway best; however it makes little difference to the
lock, or for that matter, to me, where you place the tool.

Exert a medium tension on the tool on the direction you suspect the lock turns.

Take your curved pick and insert it into the lock directly under the first pin.
Now, while maintaining the tension, push the pin up into the lock.

While still maintaining the tension, remove the pick. If the pin is picked the
top (or driver) pin will remain up in the lock itself, freeing the shear line.
The bottom pin may fall back down into the core, but if done correctly, the top
pin will wedge against the edge of the core (because you are turning it
slightly with the tension tool) and remain up.

Now move on to the second pin and while maintaining tension (so the first pin
will remain caught) carefully move the second pin up into the lock; of course,
you are being careful not to dislodge the first pin by a clumsy motion. You are
being careful, aren't you?

Good.

Now about this time you may discover that some of the pins slide right back
down without binding as you've come to expect from my clever instructions. You
must realize that some of the pins will be thicker than others (either on
purpose or due to uneven wear factors). This means that the thin(ner) pins will
slide back into the core while the thicker pins remain picked.

To overcome this little problem one simply picks all the thick pins first and
then goes back and attepts the thin ones. As each each pin is picked, the core
turns a bit more and as it turns the thinner pins will bind against the edge.
Soooo....go through the lock, picking all that will, and then go back and work
the more difficult buggers.

It really makes no difference if you pick from front to back or skip around,
choose the method that best matches your personality. An agent should be at
harmony with himself at all times.

As you push a pin up into the lock and it falls down, you must decide if
gravity is the cause or if the pin is being pushed by the spring. If the latter
is the case, it is, of course, not picked.

Fat pins will be harder to push up, but they will stay picked. Thin pins go up
easily and come back down easily. One may have to pick thin pins several times
before success shines its bleary eye on you.

Raking:
-------
Once you have mastered the art of picking you are ready for bigger and better
things. This next method is especially nice if you're in a hurry, or say,
you've picked up this little fox in the local singles bar and you've brought
her along on this big secret mission to impress her.

Now she has this low-cut thing on and you're a bit nervous, right? Maybe you
don't trust your hands too well, so you decide to try the rake.

Rake, I said rake. Get your mind out of the gutter.

Insert the tension tool.Now select your pick (I prefer the rake pick, but the
circle, or even curved, will suffice) and push it into the lock as far as
possible (so it is resting under ALL the pins at one time.)

Now bring the pick up until you feel it start to push up the pins, and then
draw it towards you rapidly, watching to see that it comes in contact with
every pin on the way out.

Always keep your tension on the core, and repeat this maneuver several times in
quick succesion. You may have to adjust the height of the pick as well as the
turning tension as you work. Start with a medium pressure on the tension tool,
then try light, then hard.

If the lock fails to open, then remove and try again.
In raking you are still performing the same function as in individual picking-
i.e. you are raising the pins to the shear line. Of course, you are doing it
faster than you could with each separate pin.
As you rake the tight pins will pick first and then the loose pins as the core
turns ever so little, just as in single picking. With any luck you should be
able to open the lock in 5 or 6 rakes.

This method will open many locks in a matter of seconds.

Stay tuned for more fun spy files from Eric The Red.

================================
= The Science of Opening Safes =
= by Eric The Red =
= Tiger's Lair (206)874-4115 =
================================

Safes:
------
Once the determined agent gains successful entry to the premises, he may find
that some no good son-of-a-bitch has not only placed the necessary target in a
locked and alarmed building, but has also employed a safe to help insure the
virginity of the target materials.

A good agent will be prepared for such an eventuality by being armed with one
or more possible opening methods, and necessary implements.

Success often depends on the degree of security offered, coupled with the age
and make of the safe.

Safes come in a wide variety of sizes and applications. One can encounter wall,
floor, or vault models of varying thickness and offering a wide variety of
resistance to the determined agent.

Most safes have at least one combination mechanism. The combination is
preferred as there are no keys to lose or have copied, and the number of
possible combinations varies from over 1 million to 1 billion, thus making it a
bit time consuming to open one randomly.

The dial is marked with a reference point and a series of numbers. The dial is
connected to the spindle which appears as a skinny metal bar and to the
tumblers (which are connected to the leg bone, leg bone connected....).

The spindle transmits the motion of the dial to the tumblers, which appear as
metal wheels with a cut in one spot. The tumblers are all packed together.
(Do not confuse the tumblers of a safe with the tumblers of a normal lock--they
are entirely different)

When the spindle turns the tumblers, they first all turn together (as each has
a small metal post which hooks the next one). As the dial is stopped at the
first number, that tumbler remains it that position. Then one turns the dial
to the other direction moving all but that tumbler, the next number, and so
on.

When all the correct tumblers are dialed in the slots will be all lined up
directly under the "fence" which falls into the slots allowing the bolt to be
retracted.

Sound Opening:
--------------
Some safes can be opened by sound, much as in the movies, but most that were
manufactured after the mid 60's are not susceptible to the following method:

A high gain amplifier is used. A small, direct-coupled amplifier can be
purchased for about 10 dollars from the various electronic supply houses. A
contact microphone (i.e. one that "hears" vibrations rather than actual sound)
should be employed. BE SURE to use a matching transformer if the impedences do
not match; and in a pinch, a crystal phono cartridge can be employed as a
contact microphone. A stethescope can be used instead of all this, but the
amplifier-microphone combo is much better.

Place the contact mic on the safe, near the dial. Now, turn the dial 5 times to
the left to clear it. Now, turn back towards the right. On the first
revolution, you should hear a distinct click as the cam and lever engage. Read
the number. This will be the opening number, or the last number dialed to open
the safe.

Continue turning to the right. You will hear an additional click during the
next 4 or 5 turns. This indicates how many tumblers you are actually dealing
with. Most safes will have 3, but some will have 4 or 5.

While you are determining the tumber of tumblers, disregard the drop-in click
that occurs at the opening number on each turn.

Our turning the dial to the right 5 turns also performs another duty; it clears
the mechanism. This means that the dial has picked up all the tumblers and is
moving them in rotation with the dial.

After our 5 turns to the right, we move the dial about 10 points BEYOND the
opening number. If the opening number is 15, we would move to 25 and stop. Now
we move back to the exact opening number.

This procedure puts the opening lever and cam in position to open the safe
(although the tumblers are not lined up so it will not open) Now at this point,
you can rock the safe dial back and forth without actually turning it.

This rocking motion causes the lever to click against the tumblers (through
the lever slot). This clicking can be heard by the manipulator in his ear
phones. The whole secret here is the fact that the noise will vary depending
on the number of tumblers the lever is clicking against. (Much like the
difference in hitting 3 notes on a piano at the same time, or just hitting
one.)

Should we have happened to line up one of the tumbles slots under the lever,
the sound will be that of the lever only clicking only two tumblers (as the
lever will fit into the slot of the lined up tumbler, creating no sound).

Each time we time we rock the dial to make the lever-tumbler combination click
we (assuming there was NO difference in sound) move the dial back to the right
where it picks up the tumblers and then we move it about 2 digits past the
last number. Now one moves the dial back to the opening number to realign the
lever-cam slot, and repeats the rocking motion.

When you hear a sound differnce, (indicating that the tumbler slot is lined up)
you turn the dial back to the right until the click indicating the cam has
picked up the tumblers. Now immediately stop and read the number that is lined
up when you hear this click.

This is one of the combination numbers.

Now continue to the right 2 digits past the last try and move the dial back to
the opening number and repeat the procedure. Do this until you have all the
combination numbers.

Now, we know the opening number is the final number, but we dont know what
order the combination numbers are arranged, so you will have to try all 9
(assuming 3 combinations and one opening number) possible variations. One will
open the safe.

Sometimes you will have to move the dial a couple of points beyond the opening
number to get the cam to retract the bolt and open the lock.

Some locks open to the right, i.e.
R four turns 22
L three turns 18
R two turns 46
L to opening 15
Some will be opposite (L-R-L-R).

Most locks will open no matter which way it is turned, however, a rough
guideline is:

Sargeant-right
Diebold-right
Yale-left
Mosler-left

This sort of technique will not work on high quality modern safes as they
employ nylon tumblers, sound baffles, and devices to prevent the lever from
touching the tumblers until ready to open. Because of this, the good agent will
have a couple of alternate methods in his repertoire.

Drilling:
---------
A good way to tell where to drill is to place your microphone against the safe
about half way between the handle and the dial. Now shake the handle violently.

This should make the tail piece hit the bolt. Keep it up until you can locate
the point where the noise is loudest, i.e., where the tail piece and bolt come
into actual contact. Drill here.

It makes little difference whether you drill off the tail piece or bolt; either
will open the safe.

It is safer to use a large bit, say one inch, on a powerful drill. This may
require more than one person pushing on the drill...

Use special hardened carbide or diamond points, and always carry 4 or 5 with
you.

Some safes have hardened plates covering the vital areas to discourage those
who would use the method. When you encounter such a plate, press very hard on
the drill and DO NOT ease up, even for a moment, as the will cause the bit to
burn up.

You may have to take your torch (you did bring a torch, didn't you?) and heat
the plate quite hot, let it cool, or throw water on it, drill some more,
reheat, cool, drill, etc. Most hard plates are fairly thin.

Punching:
---------
In this case, we are not referring to what the frustrated agent often resorts
to when the safe fails to open, but rather, a quick method of forced entry. The
agent knocks off dial off with some heavy instrument and punches the spindle
with a center punch and hammer. With a bit of luck, the safe can often be
opened.

However, on many high quality safes, any puching attempt will shatter the
spindle, or cause the bolt to dead-lock. Some safes have a surprise in the form
of tear gas which will be released when punched or burned.

Grinding:
---------
A high speed electric grinder with a carbide wheel may be employed to cut away
the safe wall around the lock mechanism.

Burning:
--------
One of the most popular methods over the years has been the burn job.

This is accomplished with an oxy-acetylene torch. The protecting wall in front
of the dial mechanism is cut away revealing the tumblers which are manipulated
to open the door.

Many modern safes are laminated steel connected to something like copper, which
conducts heat away from the burning area. Also one must consider the
possibility of tear gas releasing at about 130 degrees.

Paper can withstand temperatures up to about 350 degrees.....

Other:
------

Many people feel they must go in via the door as that is the conventional way,
when, in real life, the door may be the protected part of the safe.

Often, turning a safe on its top and attacking the bottom with a sledge or
heavy duty axe may yield opening results. However, this method does lack a bit
in the finesse department.

Peeling is another possibilty: Here one drills a hole in the corner of the door
(thereby missing the anti-drill plate) and inserts a crowbar and peels back the
first layer of te door. This will usually expose the locking mechanism.

One can also drill from the rear, look into the safe, decide if it is worth
opening. As an added bonus, most safes can be opened by turning the dial while
watching the mechanism from the rear and visually aligning the tumblers.

Thermic Lance:
--------------

A thermic lance, or burning bar, will cut through most safes with no noise,
minimum hassle, and have the added advantage of being concealable and simple to
operate.

Automobile Security from the Thieves P.O.V.

2007-12-19T06:08:00.000-08:00

Automobile Security from the Thieves P.O.V.
by Eckstahsee

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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
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So you got a car an say this car has valubles in it and say you wanna protect it..well there are several ways to do this an im gonna TRY to enlighten you on a few ways you can prevent your car from being owned.

1) Park your car in a well lit area,this sounds practical but it works. Security lights around the area where a car will be parked is great. A thief is somewhat like lightning it most often takes the path of least resistance. If a car is lit up like a candle this blows his ability to be sneaky and sneaky is good.

2) Get a car alarm. The louder the better too. Noise and light distract a would be thief and lots of noise makes it impossible to think clearly and this can cause havok in the thiefs mind. If he/she cannot think clearly because of the alarm going off they are more likely to abandon ship and take off.

3) Lock your fucking doors. I mean my god if you wanna protect what you have worked hard for then start out by taking the simplest of steps to prevent any mishaps. Believe it or not most of my scores come from walking by a car an simply trying the doorhandle, and you would be surprised at just how many people leave their cars unlocked.

4) Window tint, this can prevent a thief from seeing whats on the inside of the car. Most of the time when something is stolen from the inside of a car its because the thief has looked through the window to check out his/her future score. Window tint may prevent a thief from seeing any valubles in the car and if they cant see whats inside its hard for them to follow through with breaking inside if they cant see if there is anything inside worth the effort.

5) This one is for those people that run impound lots. DOGS! MEAN !! DOGS !!....i tell you what there is no feeling worse than jumping a fence to realize your now standing in the presence of a mean ass dog. Ive made many dashes from dogs and im sure others have to. This is one of the number one things you can do to protect your impound lots. Fence it in and turn loose a couple of vicious animals on the inside.

6) For those rollin on DuBs. Buy quality wheel locks, specialty locks, unusual locks. A wheel thief will set your pride and joy on blocks, tires, car batterys, logs and any damn thing they can find. Wheel locks slow them down but dont always ensure success. Specialty wheel locks and custom wheel locks are available and if your rolling on 24's with a price tag to match the size then a couple hundred more for a custom wheel lock shouldnt hurt you too bad,and these custom one off locks are hard to duplicate thus making it unfeasable to attempt a theft.

7) Got that Bump in da trunk? Detachable face CD players have that detachable face for a reason,duh its nearly fuckin useless without the face. Sure you can order replacment faces but would a common thief? NO. Got subs in the trunk? Then bolt them bitches down, this not only slows the thief down but also ensures your system doesnt do any bouncing around while your driving. Got an Amp? If possible bolt this to the speaker box if not then try to hide or secure it elsewhere. Use good quality screws to hold the subs in the box, most thiefs are only equiped with non-power tools thus trying to remove a wood screw with a hand-driver is painfully slow and a pain in the ass.

Your common automobile thief is usually at work at night. Take away their ability to not be seen by adding plenty of light. Take away their ability to be quiet by adding a car alarm. Take away their ability to be quick by properly securing your goods and valubles inside the vehicle.

If you can take away all the thiefs advantages then he/she is far less likely to make your automobile another statistic.

The FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions List) from alt

2007-12-19T06:07:00.001-08:00

The FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions List) from alt

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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Newsgroups: alt.locksmithing,news.answers,alt.answers
Path: bloom-beacon.mit.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!world!spike
From: spike@world.std.com (Joe Ilacqua)
Subject: alt.locksmithing answers to Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Message-ID:
Followup-To: alt.locksmithing
Summary: This post gives answers to many of the common questions
asked. It is strongly recommended that it be read before posting
to this group.
Supersedes:
Reply-To: alt-locksmithing-faq@world.std.com
Organization: Software Tool & Die
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 1994 16:23:54 GMT
Approved: news-answers-request@MIT.Edu
Expires: Sun, 30 Oct 1994 16:23:53 GMT
Lines: 568
Xref: bloom-beacon.mit.edu alt.locksmithing:5411 news.answers:25806 alt.answers:4487

Archive-name: locksmith-faq
Last-modified: 94/4/20
Version: 5.0

alt.locksmithing Answers To Frequently Asked Questions

[The FAQ has been rewritten in HTML, a hypertext format used by the]
[World Wide Web. This text version is now being generated from the]
[HTML version. The formating has changed some, but it's basically the]
[same FAQ.]

[Added references to Loompanics online catalog, and Graham Pulford's]
["Catalogue of High Security Locks", plus a note on Septon's overseas]
[ordering policy.]

_________________________________________________________________

This FAQ does not attempt to teach you locksmithing, just to answer
simple questions, give you some hints on getting started, and point
you to sources of information. Also included is a glossary of common
terms. The Appendix covers many supply places, books and tapes.

This FAQ is posted monthly to the USENET groups "alt.locksmithing",
"alt.answers", and "news.answers". The lastest version of the FAQ
should be available from the USENET FTP archives on "rtfm.mit.edu" in
directory "/pub/usenet/alt.locksmithing". You can also retrieve this
FAQ by email; send mail "mail-server@rtfm.mit.edu" to with "send
usenet/alt.locksmithing/a.l_a_t_F_A_Q_(F).Z" contained in the BODY of
the message.

A hypertext version of this FAQ may be accessed on the World Wide Web
using "http://www.std.com/archives/alt-locksmithing".

Questions Answered:

1. Where can I get a lock pick set?
2. How can I make my own picks and tension wrenches?
3. Is it legal to carry lock picks?
4. Where can I get the "MIT Guide to Picking Locks"?
+ I can't print the Guide!
5. What books can I get on locksmithing?
6. What are "pick guns" or "automatic pickers" and do they work?
7. How do I open a Kryptonite lock?
8. Can the Club be picked? Is the Club any good?
9. How can I get keys stamped "DO NOT DUPLICATE" duplicated?
10. Do Skeleton Keys Exist?
11. Should I bother with high security ("pick proof") locks for my
home?
12. What should I do after I read a book?
13. How do I continue learning about locksmithing?
14. How do Simplex pushbutton locks work?
15. Is there a formula that can find the combination of a Master Lock?
16. What is the "shear line".
* Other online locksmithing related resources
* Glossary
* Appendix of sources, books, videotapes.
* Credit & Thanks

1. WHERE CAN I GET A LOCK PICK SET?

Try a locksmith supply house. Look under "Locksmiths' Equipment &
Supplies" in the Yellow Pages. Your State or the company may have
requirements, such as having to prove you are a locksmith or showing a
drivers license; call and find out. Also look for mail order houses in
the Appendix.

2. HOW CAN I MAKE MY OWN PICKS AND TENSION WRENCHES?

You can file or grind picks out of spring steel. It is best to use
spring steel - sources include hacksaw blades, piano (music) wire,
clock springs, streetsweeper bristles (which can be found along the
street after the sweeper has passed), etc. In a pinch safety pin
steel, or even a bobby pin (much worse) can be used. When grinding,
keep the steel from getting so hot as to anneal (soften) it. You may
have to re-harden/re-temper it. (See a book on knife making,
gunsmithing, or machine shop practice for a discussion on heat
treating steel.) Some people prefer a rigid tension wrench and just
bend a small screwdriver for this, but many prefer a slightly flexible
wrench and use spring steel.

The "MIT Guide to Picking Locks" and the "Eddie The Wire" books (see
below) cover making these tools. There are many places you can buy
picks and tension wrenches. See the appendix.

3. IS IT LEGAL TO CARRY LOCK PICKS?

This depends on where you are. In the U.S. the common case seems to
be that it is legal to carry potential "burglar tools" such as keys,
picks, crowbars, jacks, bricks, etc., but use of such tools to commit
a crime is a crime in itself. Call your local library, district
attorney, or police department to be sure.

Places where it *is* illegal to carry lock picks:
The District of Columbia.

4. WHERE CAN I GET THE "MIT GUIDE TO PICKING LOCKS"?

The author of the "MIT Guide to Picking Locks", "Ted the Tool", has
posted a PostScript(TM) version of the Guide which can be retrieved
via ftp from:

ftp.std.com:/archives/alt.locksmithing/MITGtLP/MITLockGuide.ps.Z
You will need a PostScript printer or previewer to view this file.

Dave Ferret scanned/typed in a version of the Guide, it is a file of
the text of the Guide and a collect of GIFs of the diagrams. This can
be found in ZIP and tar format in:

ftp.std.com:/archives/alt.locksmithing/MITGtLP/unofficial

4B. I CAN'T PRINT THE GUIDE!

Try deleting the two lines that read:

statusdict /lettertray known {statusdict begin lettertray end} if

5. WHAT BOOKS CAN I GET ON LOCKSMITHING?

An excellent encyclopedic reference:

The Complete Book of Locks & Locksmithing, 3rd Ed.
C.A. Roper and Bill Phillips TAB Books
ISBN 0-8306-3522-X (Paper) 0-8306-?522-1 (Hard)
$18.95 (Paper) $26.95 (Hard)

also many people think highly of:

Eddie The Wire: How to Make Your Own Professional Lock Tools
"Eddie The Wire" Loompanics Unlimited
ISBN 0-685-39143-4
4 Volumes $20

Your local book store should be able to order these for you. You can
find other titles under "Locksmithing" in the Books In Print Subject
Index, which any decent bookstore should have. Also see the Appendix.

6. WHAT ARE "PICK GUNS" OR "AUTOMATIC PICKERS" AND DO THEY WORK?

A "pick gun" is a manual or powered device that uses a vibrating pin
to try to bounce the pin tumblers so there are spaces at the shear
line so the the plug can rotate. They are not a panacea, aren't always
effective, and the net seems to feel that these are no substitute for
a little skill with a pick and learning how locks work.

7. HOW DO I OPEN A KRYPTONITE LOCK?

Easiest: If you registered your lock, call or write Kryptonite for a
new key. Or call a local locksmith, they should be able to pick and
re-key the lock for you.

Easy: Get a car jack and jack it apart. Careful, otherwise it is very
possible that you'll damage the bike.

Easy: Use a cut-off wheel in a Dremel tool to cut the lock at the hole
in the shackle (where there is the least to cut.)

Harder: If it doesn't have the newer brass jacket, peel back the
plastic coating on the key end, drill out the pin that holds in the
cylinder, remove the cylinder, open.

Hardest: Chill the metal of the "U" with liquid Nitrogen or Freon,
smash with hammer. While this is a "well known" method, it may be an
urban legend.

8. CAN THE CLUB BE PICKED? IS THE CLUB ANY GOOD?

Stan Schwarz writes:

I used to have a "Club", purchased on the recommendation of a
coworker. The first time I tried picking it, it took me
approximately 30 seconds, using the cap of a Papermate Flexgrip pen
for tension, and a bent jumbo paperclip to rake the pins. With
practice, I was able to reliably pick every "Club" I encountered in
5-30 seconds using these tools.

However, it doesn't really matter, no car thief is going to pick it,
they are going to cut the soft plastic steering wheel with a hacksaw
or bolt cutters and slip the Club off.

It has also been claimed that the Club can be broken if you grab it
with both hands, put your feet on the dashboard, and push with your
legs and pull with your arms as hard as you can. Be sure to wear
gloves!

The Club is useful as a deterrent, a car thief may pass over your car
for something easier. But if a thief wants your car, the Club will not
stop him. An alarm with an ignition kill and a theft recovery system
like LoJack is a better, but more expensive, option.

9. HOW CAN I GET KEYS STAMPED "DO NOT DUPLICATE" DUPLICATED?

Some locksmiths will take the Nike approach and "Just Do It". Some
will even stamp "DO NOT DUPLICATE" on the copy for you. If that
doesn't work, label the key by sticking some tape on the "DO NOT
DUPLICATE" stamp and try again.

10. DO SKELETON KEYS EXISTS?

"Skeleton Keys" are keys ground to avoid the wards in warded locks.
There is no analog with modern pin tumbler locks. Master keys may open
a large set of locks, but this is designed in when the locks are
installed.

11. SHOULD I BOTHER WITH HIGH SECURITY ("PICK PROOF") LOCKS FOR MY HOME?

Why not? If you are installing locks, the better quality ones are not
much more expensive, and are physically more secure (e.g., have
hardened inserts to protect against drilling.) However, note that
protection against picking doesn't add a large amount to your security
since burglars almost always go the brute force route. Regardless, you
should have a deadbolt, and check your window security.

12. WHAT SHOULD I DO AFTER I READ A BOOK?

After some reading, then the next thing is some experience. Go to
K-Mart, buy a deadbolt lock for around $10, and take the entire thing
apart (you'll need tools like screwdrivers, and perhaps a pair of
pliers) to see how a pin tumbler lock works. K-Mart carries a clone of
the Kwikset which is made to be very easy to take apart. (Key-in-knob
locksets are both more expensive and harder to take apart.)

You then can practice picking this lock by leaving out all but one
stack of pins. This will be exceedingly easy to pick, and will mostly
provide experience in manipulating the pick and tension wrench. Then
put in one more pin stack and try again - feeling when one stack is
picked and then the second one will let the cylinder move. Keep on
adding stacks. Try picking with the curved finger, and also raking.

13. HOW DO I CONTINUE LEARNING ABOUT LOCKSMITHING?

There are several things you can do to continue learning more about
locks and locksmithing. One, of course, is to subscribe to a
locksmithing magazine. Some years ago I compared the National
Locksmith to the Locksmith Ledger and felt that the latter was a bit
better on technical info. Call yourself a Student Locksmith, or
perhaps a Security Consultant (surely you have given some advice to
*somebody*!).

But all this reading won't help all that much, so you have to continue
buying various types of locks, taking them apart, figuring out
everything about them, and installing, removing, modifying them. Buy
some key blanks, make up a master key scheme, and file the keys to fit
(assuming you don't have a key machine) - filing may take a few
minutes, but it does work. Maybe buy a re-keying kit (kit of different
size pins, with a follower) and do some re-keying for your family or
friends (the same size pins fit, I think, the familiar Kwikset and
Schlage pin tumbler locks) so that their deadbolts can be opened with
their normal front door key. Or buy a deadbolt installation kit (hole
saw plus template - I think that Black and Decker makes a good one,
available at better building supply places) and put in a few deadbolts
for your family and friends - charging them only for the material plus
a couple of bucks towards the installation kit - and re-key the
deadbolt for them, too.

Buy or make a pick set, and use your practice locks to practice
picking. Do you have a good locksmith supply catalog? If not, give a
call to a local supplier, or perhaps to Kenco of Omaha, Nebraska (they
have an 800 number) and get their catalog - they sell lots of goodies
including most everything I've been discussing. Help people at work
who have been locked out of their desks or filing cabinets. Desks
usually have wafer tumbler locks which are *much* easier to pick than
pin tumbler locks. Filing cabinets are not as easy to pick, but are
pickable (actually some are very easy to pick - they vary greatly) and
also can be opened by pushing a flexible plastic ruler past the
sliding drawer - carefully inspect some working cabinets to see what
I'm talking about.

14. HOW DO SIMPLEX PUSHBUTTON LOCKS WORK?

They are complicated, and it takes a rather long discussion to cover
their operation and how to manipulate them. A clear discussion is
available by anonymous ftp from the host ftp.ftp.com in
/pub/hobbit/flamage/mine/simplex.locks and there may be some other
locksmithing info in hobbit's directory.

15. IS THERE A FORMULA THAT CAN FIND THE COMBINATION OF A MASTER LOCK?

Not as far as anyone knows. You can buy code books with which will
tell you the combination for a give serial number, but these are big
somewhat expensive books that list every lock.

However, John F. Bousquet writes:

There is another way. There is a shirt picket sized formula book.
From the serial number you determine which of several progressions
were used by the factory. Then a guide number is found from the
table to devide into the serial number and a remainder is found.
This is referenced on a page in the guide. The last digit is
manipulated and that narrows it down to about 5 possabilities. I
bought one of these 20 pace packrt Try out combination finders and
never wound up using it. Now I just call it up on notebook computer.

16. WHAT IS THE "SHEAR LINE"?

Visualize a door lock - there is a fixed block (the lock body) of
metal with a cylindrical hole in it - the axis of this hole is
horizontal. It is filled with a "cylinder", which is the part which
turns with your key - and something attached to the rear of the
cylinder actuates the latch/bolt when you turn the cylinder. There are
some small vertical holes drilled in both the cylinder and the fixed
block so they match up - and they are in a straight line which is the
same line as the key. Each hole (pin chamber) is filled with (at
least) two pins (small cylindrical pieces of metal) but the pins are
of varying length, and there is a spring at the top of the chamber so
that the pins are pushed away by the spring. The bottom pin is short
enough so that it will be pushed completely down within the cylinder
and the top pin (imagining right now there are just two pins - extra
one are only used for master keying) goes from inside the cylinder to
inside the fixed block. Now the cylinder can't turn, because in each
pin chamber there will be a pin blocking the "shear" line - the line
where the pin chamber would "shear" apart when the cylinder turned.

You put your key in - and the different heights on the key are made to
"complement" the different lengths of the bottom pin so that all of
the bottom pins are raised up just to the "shear line" between the
cylinder and the fixed block part of the lock. Then the key can turn
the cylinder around its axis and actuate whatever internal mechanisms
are inside.

OTHER ONLINE LOCKSMITHING RELATED RESOURCES:

* Graham Pulford's "Catalogue of High Security Locks"
ftp://ftp.std.com/archives/alt.locksmithing/hiseclox.ps.Z
* "MIT Guide to Picking Locks"
ftp://ftp.std.com/archives/alt.locksmithing/MITGtLP/MITLockGuide.p
s.Z
* Hobbit's Simplex lock description
ftp://ftp.ftp.com/pub/hobbit/flamage/mine/simplex.locks
* The Online Loompanics Catalog
gopher://gopher.well.sf.ca.us/00/Business/catalog.asc

GLOSSARY:

blank
A key that has not yet been cut to fit a lock.

core
A removable cylinder and plug, used in a interchangeable core
system.

core key
A key which is used to remove a core.

cylinder
The part of the lock in which the the pins are set and which
contains the plug.

cuts
The notches cut in the key to make it fit a lock.

key way
The slot in which the key is inserted.

master key
A key which opens a group of locks designed to match it.

pin tumblers
The pins in the lock which are moved to the shear line by the
key.

pin chamber
the tubular hole in which pins and a spring stay.

plug
The part of the lock which the key is inserted and is rotated
by the key.

wafer tumbler
Used in locks which are less expensive than pin tumbler locks.
They behave somewhat similarly.

warded lock
A lock using wards to keep an incorrect key from entering the
key hole and turning.

APPENDIX

Here are some of the things collected about locations and
availabilities (most are from alt.locksmithing). We do not endorse any
of these, but feel that you can get information by reading. As of this
writing Septon is the only supplier that will sell to overseas
customers.

Septon, Inc. P.O. Box 9, Maiden-on-Hudson, NY 12453
(800) 537-8752 voice (914) 246-3416 fax (914) 246-0638 outside North
America
Will sell to overseas customers, but requires credit cards and a U.S.
$100 minimum order on such sales.

Call for Catalog.

Phoenix Systems Inc. P.O. Box 3339, Evergreen, CO 80439
303-277-0305 [Survivalist Group, all though the "Shoot all the Commies
for God" stuff is kept to a minimum.]

Call for Catalog.

Here are a few titles: (with Library of Congress Catalog Number)
- - ----------------------
Title: Locksmithing
Author: F.A. Steed
LC Number: TS 520 S73 1982

Title: All About Locks and Locksmithing
Author: Max Alth
LC Number: TS 520 A37 1972

Title: Professional Locksmithing Techniques
Author: Bill Phillips
LC Number TS 520 P55 1991

or you can buy books from (no credit cards)

Loompanics Unlimited
Publishers & Sellers of Unusual Books
P.O. Box 1197
Port Townsend, WA 98368

When they say unusual, they mean it! Everything from igloo
construction to techniques of execution. There is now a $5 charge for
their catalog. As far as we know they do not have a phone or fax for
orders.

#52042 B & E: A TO Z - HOW TO GET IN ANYWHERE, ANYTIME (VHS TAPE) by
Scott French, 1987. Nearly two full hours of on-site techniques to get
in any building, beat any lock, open any safe, enter any car. Price:
$59.95

#40031 INVOLUNTARY REPOSSESSION -OR- IN THE STEAL OF THE NIGHT by John
Russell III (64pp, 1979). Written by a private detective for auto
repossessors. All the standard methods of entering and starting
locked, keyless automobiles are given. Price: $10.95

#52050 TECHNIQUES OF BURGLAR ALARM BYPASSING by Wayne B. Yeager
(110pp, 1990). Alarms covered include: Magnetic Switches, Window Foil,
Sound and Heat Detectors, Photoelectric Devices, Guard Dogs, Central
Station Systems, Closed-Circuit Television, and more. Price: $14.95

#52047 THE B & E BOOK - BURGLARY TECHNIQUES AND INVESTIGATION by Burt
Rapp (149pp, 1989). This is an investigatory guide and practical
manual designed for the police officer in charge of a burglary
investigation and its follow-up. Price: $14.95

#52054 TECHNIQUES OF SAFECRACKING by Wayne B. Yeager (92pp, 1990).
Chapters include: Safe Mechanics and Operations, Guessing the
Combination, Manipulation Techniques, Safe Drilling Methods, Punching
and Peeling, Torches Etc., Explosives, Miscellaneous Methods of Safe
Entry, Safe Deposit Boxes, Deterrence and Prevention, and more. Price:
$12.00

#52052 HIGH SPEED ENTRY - INSTANT OPENING TECHNIQUES (VHS TAPE - 1Hr)
1990. Topics include: the Rabbit Tool and Hydra force door openers,
the Omni Force jam spreader, the best exothermic lance in the world,
two tools that open almost any auto in America, electronic locksmiths,
rippers and pullers, shove knives and re-lockers, and more "techie"
tools. A complete source guide is included. Price: $39.95

#52032 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO LOCK PICKING by Eddie the Wire (80pp
1981). The very best book ever written on how to pick locks (quite the
claim). Topics covered include: Basic Principle and General Rules, How
To Mount Practice Locks, Warded Locks, Disc Tumbler Locks, Lever
Tumbler Locks, Pin Tumbler Locks, Wafer Tumbler Locks, Lock
Modifications To Thwart Tampering And How To Overcome Them, Various
Other Ways Of Bypassing Locks And Locking Mechanisms. Price: $14.95

#52040 HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN PROFESSIONAL LOCK TOOLS (4 Volume set) by
Eddie the Wire (31pp, 1980; 50pp 1981; 44pp, 1981; 55pp, 1986).
Basically this set describes how to make all the tools mentioned the
above book along with mass production techniques, carrying cases,
using a PC to generate pick profiles, making "soft" break-ins, how to
"case" a subdivision, and more. Price: $20.00

#52044 PERSONAL PICKS (VHS TAPE - 72min) by Eddie the Wire, 1988.
Demonstrates the step-by-step process of making lock tools in the home
workshop. Price: $29.95

#52051 EXPERT LOCK PICKING (VHS TAPE - 60min) by Ron Reed, 1990. The
author has won the California Locksmiths Association lock-picking
championship (I guess that's good). Uses specially designed cutaway,
see-through locks, so you can view the inside mechanisms of working
locks as they respond to picking techniques. Price: $59.95

#52048 ADVANCED LOCK PICKING by Steven M. Hampton (50pp, 1989).
Describes the inner workings of the new high-security locks and
includes templates for making custom tools. Schematic diagrams for
portable electronic picks to open magnetic key and card locks. Tips on
enhancing finger sensitivity, concentration power, constructing
practice lock boxes, and more. Price: $10.00

#52045 CIA FIELD-EXPEDIENT KEY CASTING MANUAL (48pp, 1988). How to
make a duplicate key when you can keep the original only a short time.
Price: $8.00

#52043 HOW I STEAL CARS - A REPO MAN'S GUIDE TO CAR THIEVES' SECRETS
(VHS TAPE - 45min) by Pierre Smith, 1988. How to open and enter
practically any modern automobile and how to start them without the
key. Price: $49.95

#52016 HOW TO FIT KEYS BY IMPRESSIONING by Desert Publications (26pp,
1975). Subjects covered include: Fitting bit keys, Fitting flat steel
keys, Fitting lever tumbler keys, Fitting disc tumbler keys, Necessary
tools, Techniques of obtaining impressions, and more. Price: $7.00

Wheeler-Tanner Escapes
3024 E. 35th
Spokane, WA 99223
509 448 8457.

Mainly Magic/Escape Artist supplies, but that includes lots of
locksmithing equipment and books. If you need more info, jusk ask.
(Catalog is $2, refundable w/ 1st order).

CREDIT & THANKS

The alt.locksmithing FAQ was put together from postings by
spike@world.std.com spike@world.std.com (Joe "Spike" Ilacqua), and
hes@ncsu.edu (Henry Schaffer), with a major data collection effort by
sanguish@digifix.com (Scott Anguish). Edited by hes. Translated to
English by eliz@world.std.com (Elizabeth Lear). Send comments,
criticisms, and complements to "alt-locksmithing-faq@world.std.com".

The following have contributed to this FAQ:
Scott Anguish
J. James (Jim) Belonis II
Stephen J Berch
John F. Bousquet
Chris Boyd
Robert Bruce Findler
Hobbit
Marcus Jenkins
Larry Margolis
Andy McFadden
Stan Schwarz
Thomas E Zerucha

ALT.LOCKSMITHING

2007-12-19T06:06:00.001-08:00

ALT.LOCKSMITHING answeres to frequently asked ques

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Newsgroups: alt.locksmithing,news.answers,alt.answers
Path: senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!panix!news.mathworks.com!uunet!in1.uu.net!worlddra.com!spike
From: spike@indra.com (Joe Ilacqua)
Subject: alt.locksmithing answers to Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Approved: news-answers-request@MIT.Edu
Message-ID:
Supersedes:
Reply-To: alt-locksmithing-faq@world.std.com
Expires: Mon, 22 May 1995 23:59:11 GMT
Summary: This post gives answers to many of the common questions
asked. It is strongly recommended that it be read before posting
to this group.
Organization: Indra's Net, Inc. -- Public Access Internet.
Date: Sat, 8 Apr 1995 23:59:12 GMT
Followup-To: alt.locksmithing
Lines: 672
Xref: senator-bedfellow.mit.edu alt.locksmithing:9967 news.answers:41573 alt.answers:8547

Archive-name: locksmith-faq
Last-modified: 95/4/8
Version: 5.2

[I changed jobs in October and the FAQ has moved to follow me.]
[The WWW version has moved to "www.indra.com" and the FTP archive to]
["ftp.indra.com".]

[Added a section on Master Lock manipulation.]
[Added a section on impressioning from Stephen Berch.]
[Added a section on code books from William A Moyes.]
[Added a reference Steve Haehnichen's pick images.]

ALT.LOCKSMITHING ANSWERS TO FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

_________________________________________________________________

This FAQ does not attempt to teach you locksmithing, just to answer
simple questions, give you some hints on getting started, and point
you to sources of information. Also included is a glossary of common
terms. The Appendix covers many supply places, books and tapes.

This FAQ is posted monthly to the USENET groups "alt.locksmithing",
"alt.answers", and "news.answers". The latest version of the FAQ
should be available from the USENET FTP archives on "rtfm.mit.edu" in
directory "/pub/usenet/alt.locksmithing". You can also retrieve this
FAQ by email; send mail "mail-server@rtfm.mit.edu" to with "send
usenet/alt.locksmithing/a.l_a_t_F_A_Q_(F).Z" contained in the BODY of
the message.

A hypertext version of this FAQ may be accessed on the World Wide Web
using "http://www.indra.com/archives/alt-locksmithing".

Questions Answered:

1. Where can I get a lock pick set?
2. How can I make my own picks and tension wrenches?
3. Is it legal to carry lock picks?
4. Where can I get the "MIT Guide to Picking Locks"?
+ I can't print the Guide!
5. What books can I get on locksmithing?
6. What are "pick guns" or "automatic pickers" and do they work?
7. How do I open a Kryptonite lock?
8. Can the Club be picked? Is the Club any good?
9. How can I get keys stamped "DO NOT DUPLICATE" duplicated?
10. Do Skeleton Keys Exist?
11. Should I bother with high security ("pick proof") locks for my
home?
12. What should I do after I read a book?
13. How do I continue learning about locksmithing?
14. How do Simplex pushbutton locks work?
15. Is there a formula that can find the combination of a Master Lock?
16. Can the combination of a Master Lock be found though manipulation?
17. What is the "shear line".
18. What is "impressioning"?
19. What is a code? What is a codebook?
* Other online locksmithing related resources
* Glossary
* Appendix of sources, books, videotapes.
* Credit & Thanks

1. WHERE CAN I GET A LOCK PICK SET?

Try a locksmith supply house. Look under "Locksmiths' Equipment &
Supplies" in the Yellow Pages. Your State or the company may have
requirements, such as having to prove you are a locksmith or showing a
drivers license; call and find out. Also look for mail order houses in
the Appendix.

2. HOW CAN I MAKE MY OWN PICKS AND TENSION WRENCHES?

You can file or grind picks out of spring steel. It is best to use
spring steel - sources include hacksaw blades, piano (music) wire,
clock springs, streetsweeper bristles (which can be found along the
street after the sweeper has passed), etc. In a pinch safety pin
steel, or even a bobby pin (much worse) can be used. When grinding,
keep the steel from getting so hot as to anneal (soften) it. You may
have to re-harden/re-temper it. (See a book on knife making,
gunsmithing, or machine shop practice for a discussion on heat
treating steel.) Some people prefer a rigid tension wrench and just
bend a small screwdriver for this, but many prefer a slightly flexible
wrench and use spring steel.

The "MIT Guide to Picking Locks" and the "Eddie The Wire" books (see
below) cover making these tools. There are many places you can buy
picks and tension wrenches. See the appendix.

Steve Haehnichen maintains an archive of GIF
and JPEG images of picks located at ftp://ftp.vigra.com/steve/locks/
which are useful guides for those making their own picks.

3. IS IT LEGAL TO CARRY LOCK PICKS?

This depends on where you are. In the U.S. the common case seems to
be that it is legal to carry potential "burglar tools" such as keys,
picks, crowbars, jacks, bricks, etc., but use of such tools to commit
a crime is a crime in itself. Call your local library, district
attorney, or police department to be sure.

Places where it *is* illegal to carry lock picks:
The District of Columbia.

4. WHERE CAN I GET THE "MIT GUIDE TO PICKING LOCKS"?

The author of the "MIT Guide to Picking Locks", "Ted the Tool", has
posted a PostScript(TM) version of the Guide which can be retrieved
via ftp from:

ftp.indra.com:/archives/alt-locksmithing/MITGtLP/MITLockGuide.ps.Z
You will need a PostScript printer or previewer to view this file.

Dave Ferret scanned/typed in a version of the Guide, it is a file of
the text of the Guide and a collect of GIFs of the diagrams. This can
be found in ZIP and tar format in:

ftp.indra.com:/archives/alt-locksmithing/MITGtLP/unofficial
Mattias Wingstedt has converted the Guide to HTML and made it
available on the Web at
http://www.lysator.liu.se/mit-guide/mit-guide.html.

4B. I CAN'T PRINT THE GUIDE!

Try deleting the two lines that read:

statusdict /lettertray known {statusdict begin lettertray end} if

5. WHAT BOOKS CAN I GET ON LOCKSMITHING?

An excellent encyclopedic reference:

The Complete Book of Locks & Locksmithing, 3rd Ed.
C.A. Roper and Bill Phillips TAB Books
ISBN 0-8306-3522-X (Paper) 0-8306-?522-1 (Hard)
$18.95 (Paper) $26.95 (Hard)

also many people think highly of:

Eddie The Wire: How to Make Your Own Professional Lock Tools
"Eddie The Wire" Loompanics Unlimited
ISBN 0-685-39143-4
4 Volumes $20

Your local book store should be able to order these for you. You can
find other titles under "Locksmithing" in the Books In Print Subject
Index, which any decent bookstore should have. Also see the Appendix.

6. WHAT ARE "PICK GUNS" OR "AUTOMATIC PICKERS" AND DO THEY WORK?

A "pick gun" is a manual or powered device that uses a vibrating pin
to try to bounce the pin tumblers so there are spaces at the shear
line so the the plug can rotate. They are not a panacea, aren't always
effective, and the net seems to feel that these are no substitute for
a little skill with a pick and learning how locks work.

7. HOW DO I OPEN A KRYPTONITE LOCK?

Easiest: If you registered your lock, call or write Kryptonite for a
new key. Or call a local locksmith, they should be able to pick and
re-key the lock for you.

Easy: Get a car jack and jack it apart. Careful, otherwise it is very
possible that you'll damage the bike.

Easy: Use a cut-off wheel in a Dremel tool to cut the lock at the hole
in the shackle (where there is the least to cut.)

Harder: If it doesn't have the newer brass jacket, peel back the
plastic coating on the key end, drill out the pin that holds in the
cylinder, remove the cylinder, open.

Hardest: Chill the metal of the "U" with liquid Nitrogen or Freon,
smash with hammer. While this is a "well known" method, it may be an
urban legend.

8. CAN THE CLUB BE PICKED? IS THE CLUB ANY GOOD?

Stan Schwarz writes:

I used to have a "Club", purchased on the recommendation of a
coworker. The first time I tried picking it, it took me
approximately 30 seconds, using the cap of a Papermate Flexgrip pen
for tension, and a bent jumbo paperclip to rake the pins. With
practice, I was able to reliably pick every "Club" I encountered in
5-30 seconds using these tools.

However, it doesn't really matter, no car thief is going to pick it,
they are going to cut the soft plastic steering wheel with a hacksaw
or bolt cutters and slip the Club off.

It has also been claimed that the Club can be broken if you grab it
with both hands, put your feet on the dashboard, and push with your
legs and pull with your arms as hard as you can. Be sure to wear
gloves!

The Club is useful as a deterrent, a car thief may pass over your car
for something easier. But if a thief wants your car, the Club will not
stop him. An alarm with an ignition kill and a theft recovery system
like LoJack is a better, but more expensive, option.

9. HOW CAN I GET KEYS STAMPED "DO NOT DUPLICATE" DUPLICATED?

Some locksmiths will take the Nike approach and "Just Do It". Some
will even stamp "DO NOT DUPLICATE" on the copy for you. If that
doesn't work, label the key by sticking some tape on the "DO NOT
DUPLICATE" stamp and try again.

10. DO SKELETON KEYS EXISTS?

"Skeleton Keys" are keys ground to avoid the wards in warded locks.
There is no analog with modern pin tumbler locks. Master keys may open
a large set of locks, but this is designed in when the locks are
installed.

11. SHOULD I BOTHER WITH HIGH SECURITY ("PICK PROOF") LOCKS FOR MY HOME?

Why not? If you are installing locks, the better quality ones are not
much more expensive, and are physically more secure (e.g., have
hardened inserts to protect against drilling.) However, note that
protection against picking doesn't add a large amount to your security
since burglars almost always go the brute force route. Regardless, you
should have a deadbolt, and check your window security.

12. WHAT SHOULD I DO AFTER I READ A BOOK?

After some reading, then the next thing is some experience. Go to
K-Mart, buy a deadbolt lock for around $10, and take the entire thing
apart (you'll need tools like screwdrivers, and perhaps a pair of
pliers) to see how a pin tumbler lock works. K-Mart carries a clone of
the Kwikset which is made to be very easy to take apart. (Key-in-knob
locksets are both more expensive and harder to take apart.)

You then can practice picking this lock by leaving out all but one
stack of pins. This will be exceedingly easy to pick, and will mostly
provide experience in manipulating the pick and tension wrench. Then
put in one more pin stack and try again - feeling when one stack is
picked and then the second one will let the cylinder move. Keep on
adding stacks. Try picking with the curved finger, and also raking.

13. HOW DO I CONTINUE LEARNING ABOUT LOCKSMITHING?

There are several things you can do to continue learning more about
locks and locksmithing. One, of course, is to subscribe to a
locksmithing magazine. Some years ago I compared the National
Locksmith to the Locksmith Ledger and felt that the latter was a bit
better on technical info. Call yourself a Student Locksmith, or
perhaps a Security Consultant (surely you have given some advice to
*somebody*!).

But all this reading won't help all that much, so you have to continue
buying various types of locks, taking them apart, figuring out
everything about them, and installing, removing, modifying them. Buy
some key blanks, make up a master key scheme, and file the keys to fit
(assuming you don't have a key machine) - filing may take a few
minutes, but it does work. Maybe buy a re-keying kit (kit of different
size pins, with a follower) and do some re-keying for your family or
friends (the same size pins fit, I think, the familiar Kwikset and
Schlage pin tumbler locks) so that their deadbolts can be opened with
their normal front door key. Or buy a deadbolt installation kit (hole
saw plus template - I think that Black and Decker makes a good one,
available at better building supply places) and put in a few deadbolts
for your family and friends - charging them only for the material plus
a couple of bucks towards the installation kit - and re-key the
deadbolt for them, too.

Buy or make a pick set, and use your practice locks to practice
picking. Do you have a good locksmith supply catalog? If not, give a
call to a local supplier, or perhaps to Kenco of Omaha, Nebraska (they
have an 800 number) and get their catalog - they sell lots of goodies
including most everything I've been discussing. Help people at work
who have been locked out of their desks or filing cabinets. Desks
usually have wafer tumbler locks which are *much* easier to pick than
pin tumbler locks. Filing cabinets are not as easy to pick, but are
pickable (actually some are very easy to pick - they vary greatly) and
also can be opened by pushing a flexible plastic ruler past the
sliding drawer - carefully inspect some working cabinets to see what
I'm talking about.

14. HOW DO SIMPLEX PUSHBUTTON LOCKS WORK?

Hobbit has written an excellent discussion on workings of Simplex
locks. Hobbit left FTP Software and his FTP archive is currently
unavailable. This is expected to change by the next time this FAQ is
published at the end of March. Stay tuned.

15. IS THERE A FORMULA THAT CAN FIND THE COMBINATION OF A MASTER LOCK?

Not as far as anyone knows. You can buy code books with which will
tell you the combination for a give serial number, but these are big
somewhat expensive books that list every lock.

However, John F. Bousquet writes:

There is another way. There is a shirt picket sized formula book.
From the serial number you determine which of several progressions
were used by the factory. Then a guide number is found from the
table to divide into the serial number and a remainder is found.
This is referenced on a page in the guide. The last digit is
manipulated and that narrows it down to about 5 possibilities. I
bought one of these 20 pace pocket Try out combination finders and
never wound up using it. Now I just call it up on notebook computer.

16. CAN THE COMBINATION OF A MASTER LOCK BE FOUND THOUGH MANIPULATION?

Recently a method of finding the combination of a Master Lock has
been presented on alt.locksmithing. It seems there is a formula that
relates the numbers in a combination to each other. The first and last
digit of any combination will both have the same remained when divided
by 4, and the second digit's remained when divided by 4 will be - or +
2 from the first and third's remainder. For example, if you knew the
last digit of the combination was 5, the first digit could be any
digit that had a remainder of 1 when divided by 4 and the second
number any digit with a remainder of 3 when divided by 4. This means
given one number in the combination, there are only ten numbers that
can be in each of the other two positions, and thus only 100 possible
combinations given one number in the combination.

And it turns out there is an easy way to find the last digit of the
combination. On older Master Locks, ones where the arrow at the top is
raised, simply pull on the shackle and turn the dial until it catches,
that's the third number in the combination. On news locks with the
recessed arrow, there are twelve places the dial will catch if you
turn it while pulling on the shackle. Seven of these will catch
between two numbers, ignore these, and find the the five that catch on
a number. Four of these will end in the same digit, i.e, 1, 11, 21,
and 31, the fifth end with a different digit, and the is the third
number in the combination.

This means that given the knowledge, time, and patience, anyone can
find the combination and open your lock. But then so can anyone with a
pair of bolt cutters, a hacksaw, or maybe even a hammer. These are
three (US) dollar locks. They have many useful applications, but they
are not high security locks. Plan your usage accordingly.

17. WHAT IS THE "SHEAR LINE"?

Visualize a door lock - there is a fixed block (the lock body) of
metal with a cylindrical hole in it - the axis of this hole is
horizontal. It is filled with a "cylinder", which is the part which
turns with your key - and something attached to the rear of the
cylinder actuates the latch/bolt when you turn the cylinder. There are
some small vertical holes drilled in both the cylinder and the fixed
block so they match up - and they are in a straight line which is the
same line as the key. Each hole (pin chamber) is filled with (at
least) two pins (small cylindrical pieces of metal) but the pins are
of varying length, and there is a spring at the top of the chamber so
that the pins are pushed away by the spring. The bottom pin is short
enough so that it will be pushed completely down within the cylinder
and the top pin (imagining right now there are just two pins - extra
one are only used for master keying) goes from inside the cylinder to
inside the fixed block. Now the cylinder can't turn, because in each
pin chamber there will be a pin blocking the "shear" line - the line
where the pin chamber would "shear" apart when the cylinder turned.

You put your key in - and the different heights on the key are made to
"complement" the different lengths of the bottom pin so that all of
the bottom pins are raised up just to the "shear line" between the
cylinder and the fixed block part of the lock. Then the key can turn
the cylinder around its axis and actuate whatever internal mechanisms
are inside.

18. WHAT IS "IMPRESSIONING"?

Impressioning is a technique for opening a lock by making a key out
of a key blank for the lock. The blank is filed to fit; the place and
amount of filing depends upon small marks left on the key blank by the
pin tumblers. The procedure starts with smoothing the key blank with
fine abrasive paper or a very fine file to remove any marks or
scratches and to leave a surface which will show the marks. The key
blank is then inserted into the lock and the blank twisted from side
to side and rocked up and down. The blank is removed and inspected for
marks and a shallow cut made with a file on the mark closest to the
tip of the blank, or on the most prominent mark. (There are several
systems for determining which mark should be cut and for the correct
way to twist and rock.)

Repeat this for the same position until the tumbler doesn't leave any
mark on the blank and then move to the next pin. When the last cut is
made the lock should open with the newly cut key - assuming that the
interpretation of the marks and the cutting has been done right.

The advantage of impressioning for opening a lock is that it creates a
key for that lock. But the process is slow and requires a fair amount
of skill. With expert skill levels, the process is considerably
faster. There are a number of special pliers made to hold the blank
and make it easier to give the proper twist with rocking that will
mark the blank. The marks on the blank are difficult to see and you
must start with a blank that fits the lock. (Or several blanks, as
this doesn't always work the first time.) Impressioning may not be as
quick and easy as picking the lock. Picking a lock often leaves
tell-tale scratches on the tumblers and plug that won't happen with
impressioning.

19. WHAT IS A CODE? WHAT IS A CODEBOOK?

Ever see a lock on a desk, filling cabinet, or a key with a number
stamped on it like FR332, 2H5212, or 61624? Those are called codes.
They tell locksmiths exactly how to cut a key to fit the lock. There
are three types of codes. There are direct digit codes. Each digit
corresponds to each cut on the key, the value of each digit tell how
deep to make the cut. Schlage prints the code for the key directly on
the key. These codes are usually long, each pin needs its own digit.

The second type in which each digit does not directly correspond to
the depth, but there is a pattern between the code and the key. Often
mathematical tricks are used (for example you must subtract 435 from
the code, then cut the key).

The last type require a locksmith to have a codebook. There is no
pattern to the cuts on the keys. The Reed Codebooks are one of the
most common. There are 12 general volumes (cars, cabinet, suit cases,
door locks) and 5 padlock volumes. Each volume is about 600 pages
long. Several manufactures now selling computer programs that contain
all this information. Needless to say that the software is
copy-protected. A complete set costs well over $800.

OTHER ONLINE LOCKSMITHING RELATED RESOURCES:

* Graham Pulford's "Catalogue of High Security Locks"
ftp://ftp.indra.com/archives/alt-locksmithing/hiseclox.ps.Z
* "MIT Guide to Picking Locks" Web page.
http://www.lysator.liu.se/mit-guide/mit-guide.html
* "MIT Guide to Picking Locks" in Postscript.
ftp://ftp.indra.com/archives/alt-locksmithing/MITGtLP/MITLockGuide
.ps.Z
* Hobbit's Simplex lock description - Temporarily unavailable.
* Steve Haehnichen's pick images ftp://ftp.vigra.com/steve/locks/
* The Online Loompanics Catalog
gopher://gopher.well.sf.ca.us/00/Business/catalog.asc

GLOSSARY:

blank
A key that has not yet been cut to fit a lock.

core
A removable cylinder and plug, used in a interchangeable core
system.

core key
A key which is used to remove a core.

cylinder
The part of the lock in which the the pins are set and which
contains the plug.

cuts
The notches cut in the key to make it fit a lock.

key way
The slot in which the key is inserted.

master key
A key which opens a group of locks designed to match it.

pin tumblers
The pins in the lock which are moved to the shear line by the
key.

pin chamber
the tubular hole in which pins and a spring stay.

plug
The part of the lock which the key is inserted and is rotated
by the key.

wafer tumbler
Used in locks which are less expensive than pin tumbler locks.
They behave somewhat similarly.

warded lock
A lock using wards to keep an incorrect key from entering the
key hole and turning.

APPENDIX

Here are some of the things collected about locations and
availabilities (most are from alt.locksmithing). We do not endorse any
of these, but feel that you can get information by reading. As of this
writing Septon is the only supplier that will sell to overseas
customers.

Septon, Inc. P.O. Box 9, Maiden-on-Hudson, NY 12453
(800) 537-8752 voice (914) 246-3416 fax (914) 246-0638 outside North
America
Will sell to overseas customers, but requires credit cards and a U.S.
$100 minimum order on such sales.

Call for Catalog.

Phoenix Systems Inc. P.O. Box 3339, Evergreen, CO 80439
303-277-0305 [Survivalist Group, all though the "Shoot all the Commies
for God" stuff is kept to a minimum.]

Call for Catalog.

Here are a few titles: (with Library of Congress Catalog Number)
- - ----------------------
Title: Locksmithing
Author: F.A. Steed
LC Number: TS 520 S73 1982

Title: All About Locks and Locksmithing
Author: Max Alth
LC Number: TS 520 A37 1972

Title: Professional Locksmithing Techniques
Author: Bill Phillips
LC Number TS 520 P55 1991

or you can buy books from (no credit cards)

Loompanics Unlimited
Publishers & Sellers of Unusual Books
P.O. Box 1197
Port Townsend, WA 98368

When they say unusual, they mean it! Everything from igloo
construction to techniques of execution. There is now a $5 charge for
their catalog. As far as we know they do not have a phone or fax for
orders.

#52042 B & E: A TO Z - HOW TO GET IN ANYWHERE, ANYTIME (VHS TAPE) by
Scott French, 1987. Nearly two full hours of on-site techniques to get
in any building, beat any lock, open any safe, enter any car. Price:
$59.95

#40031 INVOLUNTARY REPOSSESSION -OR- IN THE STEAL OF THE NIGHT by John
Russell III (64pp, 1979). Written by a private detective for auto
repossessors. All the standard methods of entering and starting
locked, keyless automobiles are given. Price: $10.95

#52050 TECHNIQUES OF BURGLAR ALARM BYPASSING by Wayne B. Yeager
(110pp, 1990). Alarms covered include: Magnetic Switches, Window Foil,
Sound and Heat Detectors, Photoelectric Devices, Guard Dogs, Central
Station Systems, Closed-Circuit Television, and more. Price: $14.95

#52047 THE B & E BOOK - BURGLARY TECHNIQUES AND INVESTIGATION by Burt
Rapp (149pp, 1989). This is an investigatory guide and practical
manual designed for the police officer in charge of a burglary
investigation and its follow-up. Price: $14.95

#52054 TECHNIQUES OF SAFECRACKING by Wayne B. Yeager (92pp, 1990).
Chapters include: Safe Mechanics and Operations, Guessing the
Combination, Manipulation Techniques, Safe Drilling Methods, Punching
and Peeling, Torches Etc., Explosives, Miscellaneous Methods of Safe
Entry, Safe Deposit Boxes, Deterrence and Prevention, and more. Price:
$12.00

#52052 HIGH SPEED ENTRY - INSTANT OPENING TECHNIQUES (VHS TAPE - 1Hr)
1990. Topics include: the Rabbit Tool and Hydra force door openers,
the Omni Force jam spreader, the best exothermic lance in the world,
two tools that open almost any auto in America, electronic locksmiths,
rippers and pullers, shove knives and re-lockers, and more "techie"
tools. A complete source guide is included. Price: $39.95

#52032 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO LOCK PICKING by Eddie the Wire (80pp
1981). The very best book ever written on how to pick locks (quite the
claim). Topics covered include: Basic Principle and General Rules, How
To Mount Practice Locks, Warded Locks, Disc Tumbler Locks, Lever
Tumbler Locks, Pin Tumbler Locks, Wafer Tumbler Locks, Lock
Modifications To Thwart Tampering And How To Overcome Them, Various
Other Ways Of Bypassing Locks And Locking Mechanisms. Price: $14.95

#52040 HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN PROFESSIONAL LOCK TOOLS (4 Volume set) by
Eddie the Wire (31pp, 1980; 50pp 1981; 44pp, 1981; 55pp, 1986).
Basically this set describes how to make all the tools mentioned the
above book along with mass production techniques, carrying cases,
using a PC to generate pick profiles, making "soft" break-ins, how to
"case" a subdivision, and more. Price: $20.00

#52044 PERSONAL PICKS (VHS TAPE - 72min) by Eddie the Wire, 1988.
Demonstrates the step-by-step process of making lock tools in the home
workshop. Price: $29.95

#52051 EXPERT LOCK PICKING (VHS TAPE - 60min) by Ron Reed, 1990. The
author has won the California Locksmiths Association lock-picking
championship (I guess that's good). Uses specially designed cutaway,
see-through locks, so you can view the inside mechanisms of working
locks as they respond to picking techniques. Price: $59.95

#52048 ADVANCED LOCK PICKING by Steven M. Hampton (50pp, 1989).
Describes the inner workings of the new high-security locks and
includes templates for making custom tools. Schematic diagrams for
portable electronic picks to open magnetic key and card locks. Tips on
enhancing finger sensitivity, concentration power, constructing
practice lock boxes, and more. Price: $10.00

#52045 CIA FIELD-EXPEDIENT KEY CASTING MANUAL (48pp, 1988). How to
make a duplicate key when you can keep the original only a short time.
Price: $8.00

#52043 HOW I STEAL CARS - A REPO MAN'S GUIDE TO CAR THIEVES' SECRETS
(VHS TAPE - 45min) by Pierre Smith, 1988. How to open and enter
practically any modern automobile and how to start them without the
key. Price: $49.95

#52016 HOW TO FIT KEYS BY IMPRESSIONING by Desert Publications (26pp,
1975). Subjects covered include: Fitting bit keys, Fitting flat steel
keys, Fitting lever tumbler keys, Fitting disc tumbler keys, Necessary
tools, Techniques of obtaining impressions, and more. Price: $7.00

Wheeler-Tanner Escapes
3024 E. 35th
Spokane, WA 99223
509 448 8457.

Mainly Magic/Escape Artist supplies, but that includes lots of
locksmithing equipment and books. If you need more info, jusk ask.
(Catalog is $2, refundable w/ 1st order).

CREDIT & THANKS

The alt.locksmithing FAQ was put together from postings by
spike@indra.com spike@world.indra.com (Joe "Spike" Ilacqua), and
hes@ncsu.edu (Henry Schaffer), with a major data collection effort by
sanguish@digifix.com (Scott Anguish). Edited by hes. Translated to
English by eliz@world.std.com (Elizabeth Lear). Send comments,
criticisms, and complements to "alt-locksmithing-faq@world.indra.com".

The following have contributed to this FAQ:
Scott Anguish
J. James (Jim) Belonis II
Stephen J Berch
John F. Bousquet
Chris Boyd
Robert Bruce Findler
Hobbit
Marcus Jenkins
Larry Margolis
Andy McFadden
William A Moyes
Stan Schwarz
Thomas E Zerucha

Fun with Alarms

2007-12-19T06:04:00.003-08:00

FUN WITH ALARMS

A FACT I FORGOT TO MENTION IN MY PREVIOUS ALARM ARTICLES IS THAT ONE CAN ALSO
USE POLYURETHANE FOAM IN A CAN TO SILENCE HORNS AND BELLS. YOU CAN PURCHASE
THIS AT ANY HARDWARE STORE AS INSULATION. IT IS EASIER TO HANDLE AND DRIES
FASTER.

MANY PEOPLE THAT TRAVEL CARRY A POCKET ALARM WITH THEM. THIS ALARM IS A SMALL
DEVICE THAT IS HUNG AROUND THE DOOR KNOB, AND WHEN SOMEONE TOUCHES THE KNOB HIS
BODY CAPACITANCE SETS OFF THE ALARM. THESE NASTY NUISENCES CAN BE FOUND BY
WALKING DOWN THE HALLS OF A HOTEL AND TOUCHING ALL THE DOOR KNOBS VERY QUICKLY.
IF YOU HAPPEN TO CHANCE UPON ONE, ATTACH A 3' LENGTH OF WIRE OR OTHER METAL
OBJECT TO THE KNOB. THIS WILL CAUSE THE SLEEPING BUSINESS PIG INSIDE TO THINK
SOMEONE IS BREAKING IN AND CALL ROOM SERVICE FOR HELP. ALL SORTS OF FUN AND
GAMES WILL ENSUE.

SOME HIGH-SECURITY INSTALATIONS USE KEYPADS JUST LIKE TOUCH-TONE PADS (A
REGISTERED TRADE MARK OF BELL SYSTEMS) TO OPEN LOCKS OR DISARM ALARMS. MOST
USE THREE OR FOUR DIGITS. TO FIGURE OUT THE CODE, WIPE THE KEY-PAD FREE FROM
ALL FINGERPRINTS. AFTER IT HAD BEEN USED JUST APPLY FINGER PRINT DUST AND ALL
FOUR DIGITS WILL BE MARKED. NOW ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS FIGURE OUT THE ORDER.

IF YOU WANT TO HAVE SOME FUN WITH A KEYPAD, TRY PRESSING THE * AND # AT THE
SAME TIME. MANY UNITS USE THIS AS A PANIC BUTTON. THIS WILL BRING THE OWNER
AND THE COPS RUNNING AND EVER-ONE WILL HAVE A GOOD TIME. NEVER TRY TO REMOVE
THEM FROM THE WALL, AS THEY ALL HAVE TAMPER SWITCHES.

ON THE SUBJECT OF HOLDUPS, MOST PLACES (INCLUDING SUPER-MARKETS, LIQUER STORES,
ETC.) HAVE WHAT IS KNOWN AS A MONEY CLIP. THESE LITTLE NASTIES ARE PLACED AT
THE BOTTOM OF A MONEY DRAWER AND WHEN THE LAST FEW BILLS ARE WITH-DRAWN A
SWITCH CLOSES AND SETS THE ALARM OFF. THAT'S WHY WHEN YOU MAKE YOUR WITHDRAWL
IT'S BEST TO HELP YOUR-SELF SO YOU CAN CHECK FOR THESE LITTLE NASTIES. IF YOU
FIND THEM, MERELY INSERT ONES UNDERNEATH THE PILE OF TWENTIES, AND THEN PULL
OUT THE TWEN-TIES, LEAVING THE ONE-DOLLAR BILL BEHIND TO PREVENT THE CIRCUIT
FROM CLOSING.

IF YOU SHOPLIFT AND SEE CAMERAS, LOOK AT THE BRAND. IF IT IS SURVEILLANCE
VIDEO SYSTEMS (SVS) YOU NEED NOT WORRY. THESE CAMERAS LOOK REALISTIC TO THE
POINT OF PILOT LIGHTS, COAX, AND SCANNING. HOWEVER, THEY ARE ONLY EMPTY BOXES.

Picking combination locks

2007-12-19T06:04:00.001-08:00

Beating Tubular Locks without Damage

2007-12-19T06:00:00.000-08:00

Tubular locks are used on many things. What is a wonder, is that they're used in areas where high security is required. The wonder I mention, is that I learned to beat a tubular lock before I entered 7th grade!

Well, the theory here is that tension must be kept on the lock, whilst the pins are being depressed. The theory is simple, but in practice, it is more complicated than that.

Bend a precision screwdriver for a tension wrench. This will work only with high quality stuff, as the cheap crap will only break. Unfold a jumbo paperclip.

To beat it, find the part of the lock where the slit goes both inside the tube and outside the tube. Place your tension wrench there. Use light-moderate tension and depress the pins with your paperclip. With enough practice, a lock of this variety will open.

Practice routinely, without TV, music, or distractions. And I mean none, not even if your little brother lands a flatground 360-flip on his skateboard. Concentrate entirely on the lock you are trying to defeat. Try to envision what is going on inside the lock, how it is responding to your play. Exercises in this will allow to pop one open in a few seconds, no matter what they say.

An Aussie Beer Can Mortar

2007-12-14T08:38:00.001-08:00

An Aussie Beer Can Mortar
by Andy

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Once apon a time well before I was connected to the net........

About Me..

Married, one ruggie, and a military man.

As a mechanical fitter I have been employed many times to manufacture tools and jigs for other tradesmen working in different departments in my unit. I have an interest in firearms (and weapons)of all types. I have used my skills to manufacture model, nad larger cannon as well as helping mates with legal modifications to there firearms. Yes I have also committed the most grevious of sins by de-activating or de-milling other wise serviceable weapons just because they were unfasionable at the time. I will never vote for that government again!!

Well any way one day...

I happened upon a large peice of brass round stock 125mm x 400mm. Too nice to be left lying around, too short for a cannon, just right for a mortar. So a quick look at my reference material and a suitable mortar shape was drawn up, scaled to give the least waste from the raw material... and just the right size to be bored to 62mm. A nice clearence diameter for a Victoria Bitter Beer Can. The exact dimentions of my mortar are unimportant, needless to say that I overengineered to some degree.

The projectile was selected because of:

A, size

b, shape

c, diameter

and, d, abundance!

The brass stock was offered to my trusty lathe and trued up externaly then drilled and bored to size. External dimentions were basic as all a Blackpowder mortar is, is a short, thick tube. The trunnion is located at the base, just the same as the modern stokes mortar, with a wooden carrage.

Mortars and Howitsers have a common theme, use a small powder charge to lob the projectile to the desired range. Many early mortar have huge bore sizes enabling large diameter projectiles to be fired short distances, all that was needed then. In keeping with the mortar theme a powder chamber 30mm in Dia. x 30mm deep was machined into the base of the short barrel.

Initial testing of the mortar with empty and gravel filled beer cans proved dissapointing.

The thinking cap went on and the very next weekend ten concrete filled beer cans were ready for some serious R&D

The Big day (no not Trinity NM 1945) but close!

A blow by blow account by Brat (not his real name)and Andy..

"Will it work this time" Snickered Brat.

"Fu** off Brat, I've just finished greasing the can, it would justabout fit your a** keep it up!" I retorted, we are really good mates!

"Eat me" or words to that effect snapped Brat.

"Is that all the powder you are going to use?" asked Brat

"Is the wick long enough?"

"Should'nt you push the can in more? finished Brat, the expert.

"Who's fu**ing this duck, stand back wicks lit" I replied.

"Shit"

BOOOM..gasp for breath, good shockwave!

The can launched out of that thing like a scalded cat (and we havew seen some oof those), rose to 200 meters, reached apogee (dictonary job) and tumbled into a lake at the 175 meter mark on the range (1/2 way between the turkeys and the rams. The thud of impact was preceded by the 10 meter shower of water glinting in the morning sun.

Just afterwards I was basking in wonder of what I had done, watching the thick cloud of smoke lasily drifd down range when I heared a funny noize...

"Is that you Brat?" I asked

"Mummummf, MMUMMF!"

"Speak up prick!" I replied as I turned to see Brat. His eyes were rolled back, in one bony hand was a beer can, in the other the powder flask and the reason he was incoherent 6" of wick clenched in between his drooling lips.

"OK your turn"

On a more analitical note:

Range at 45 - 55 Deg 180 to 250 meters

Altitude 200 to 250 meters, by eye

F grade Blackpowder only, augmented with homemade stuff to fill the chamber

Only the finest VB cans were used

Lots of Vasiline as lube

Felt wadding

commercial cannon fuse

The bore fouled up quickly, probably because of my blackpowder

Cement (mortar mix) strenghtened the can and increased pressure nicely.

We stood well back!!! and still felt the shock wave.

Standard disclamers, I'm telling a story, not giving instructions!!!

A BEER CAN IN FLIGHT IS A WONDERFUL SIGHT!

AIM

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons ,
homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

Acetone Peroxide Detonators

2007-12-14T08:37:00.001-08:00

ACETONE PEROXIDE EXPLOSIVE

Acetone peroxide is a primary explosive that can be made from hair bleach (hydrogen peroxide), acetone, and sulfuric acid. This explosive is to be used in the fabrication of detonators.

MATERIAL REQUIRED: SOURCES:

Hydrogen Peroxide, Hair bleach (15-25volume content) Drug stores and hair supply stores

Acetone, Hardware stores, Drug stores

Sulfuric acid, Clear battery acid boiled until white fumes appear.

Eye dropper or syringe with glass tube

Graduated cylinder (cc or ml) or other measuring device

Thermometer ( 0 to 100 C.)

Glass containers

Large Pan

Ice and Salt

Water

Paper towels

PROCEDURE:

1. Measure 30 milliliters of acetone and 50 milliliters of hydogen peroxide into a glass container and mix thoroughly.

2. Cool the acetone/peroxide mixture by placing its container in a larger one containing a mixture of ice, salt, and water.

NOTE: Bacause of the lighter inner container being bouyant in the larger outer container, it is necessary to secure it so that it won't fall over into the ice, salt, and water mixture.

3. Cool the acetone/peroxide mixture to 5 degrees C.

4. Add 2.5 milliliters of concentrated sulfuric acid to the acetone/peroxide mixture slowly, drop by drop, with the use of an eye dropper. Stir the mixture during the addition of the sulfuric acid with a thermometer, keeping the temperature between 5-10 degrees C. Should the temperature rise abouve 10 degrees C., stop adding the sulfuric acid and continue stirring until the temperature drops again to 5 degrees C., then continue adding the sulfuric acid.

5. After all the sulfuric acid has been added, continue stirring the mixture for another five minutes.

6. Let the acetone/peroxide/sulfuric acid mixture stand in the ice/water/salt bath or remover the inner container and place it in an ice box for 12 to 24 hours.

7. After 12 hours white crystals of acetone peroxide will precipitate out of the once clear solution. Precipitation should be completed after 24 hours.

CAUTION: At this point the mixture is a primary explosive. Keep away from shock, friction, and flame.

8. Filter the mixture through a paper towel into a container to collect the solid particles.

9. Wash the solid particles collected in the paper towel with small amounts of ice cold water poured over them. Discard the liquid in the container.

10. Place these explosive crystals in a container and allow to dry.

CAUTION: Handle the dry explosive with great care. Do not scrape or handle it roughly. Keep away from sparks or open flame. Store in a cool, dark, dry place.

HOW TO USE:

Acetone peroxide is a powerful initiator and can be used by itself as the main filler when making homemade detonaters. Using 2 1/2" lengths of brass or copper tubing with one end sealed shut with either solder or epoxy resin, begin partially filling the tube with acetone peroxide and compressing with a loading press. Continue this process untill the explosive is within 1/2" of the top. Stopper the open end tightly with a cork or wood stopper. When ready to use, remove stopper and insert time fuse. Seal around fuse and tube, then insert into main charge to a depth of 2". These caps will detonate most explosives.

NOTE: These detonators should be used within 7 days of their manufacture and should be stored in a cool, dry place.

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Safer Chlorine Gas Bomb

2007-12-14T08:36:00.000-08:00

This alternative of the Chlorine bomb has all of the explosive power of Chlorine/Ammonia with a much longer "Running Time". 1) 1/2 cup Powdered pool chlorine 2) 1/2 cup pine oil Or Professional PineSol 3) A Mason jar or perhaps a stronger container if more power is needed

Place powdered chlorine in the jar, then wipe the jar lid and the rim of the jar to remove all powder from these surface to insure that you get a good seal. Next pour in the pine oil and quickly seal the jar as tight as possible. Although this combo also produces deadly gas,the reaction is much slower and allows at least 2 minutes and maybe longer depending on the mixture. I have tested the Chlorine/Ammonia bomb and the reaction is so fast that I would highly recommend avoiding it.

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons ,
homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

Low-Grade FlashBangs

2007-12-14T08:35:00.000-08:00

Ya know those missle batteries that have those skinny black tubes that shoot in the air and whistle? Well, in most, well in just about all those black tubes that shoot in the air, is about 20 little black rocks. I dont know what they're made of, but god damn they're fun to play with!

Heres what ya do: Take about three hundred(which isn't a lot, considering i got a 100 pack for a buck), of those missles apart, and collect the little rocks in side of them. Then get a hold of a film canister and some gasoline. Make a hole in the top of the film canister, just big enough to fit a fuse in. Fill about 1/3 of the canister with gasoline, and the rest of the canister with the rocks. Put the top on the canister, stick a fuse in the hole in the top, light it, and run your ass off.

This explosion creates a VERY bright flash, and take my word for it, you don't wanna look at it when it goes off, cause it'll hurt your eyes, and you'll probably not be able to see straight for a few seconds. This is really fun to do at night when you see about five cars coming your way from both lanes. The people in the cars might possibly get in a wreck if your timing is right

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Detenators

2007-12-14T08:34:00.000-08:00

This is a perfect wat to place a timing det on a target while getting needed cover.

You will need.

1 Clothes Peg.
2 Thumb-tacks.
1 knife
wire
battery/power source
bomb/container/pipe/etc
1 inch of solder

take the clothes peg (a wooden one is best!) and cut a semi-curcular like nuke at the two thin ends of the peg where you apply pressure to open when using. it should look like a little "U" shape at the very tips of the ends. try and have so when you apply pressure to the ends the same type of cut is in proportion to the other. Now take your two thumb-tacks and rap the copper of the wire around the under neath of the tack head so that the exposed copper hugs the tack nicely. Now insert the tack in to the jaw ends of the peg (the part were it grips the line) so that the two tacks touch eachother when allowed to come into contact.

take your solder and tie a two - three loop knot at the top of the solder, make it nice and tight. Apply pressure to the tails again so that the jaws are fully expanded and the tack heads are at their most incresed distance away from eachother.

place the solder into the pre cut semi-curcular nuckes at the tail end, so the first knot sits tightly on top of the top tail. Now make another knot at the other end of the solider, keeping a rough estimate of the distance between each knot is as to keep the two tack heads from touching at the other end.

You should have a fully open peg with the solder knotted at both ends of the tail avoiding the tack heads at the jaw end from touching. You MUST BE CAREFULL FROM NOW ON IN AND QUICK!!! attach your wire from the tacks to a + & - source of your det / battery / fuse etc etc........ and get to cover.

Slowly, the pressure from the centralised peg coil will expand the solder, thus breaking in the middel, between the two knots, thus allowing the + & - points of the two tacks in the jaw end to meet and ...then........wall-ahh. Your detitnation is complete. You can variy your timing from 1 min to 5 depending on the strenth of the solder, but atleast you can do big jobs on jcb, jeeps, cars, buildings etc. without having to detinate your device locally, your away and all by the time it goes off, or sitting with a pretzel!

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The True Combustion Cannon

2007-12-14T08:33:00.000-08:00

by Ghetto_Smurf

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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
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Although the operation of this object is very fun and can be almost addictive, DO NOT AIM THIS MACHINE AT ANYONE! It is very likely that it will cause major and pottentialy irreversable harm to that person! Many people I know have had to spend a night or two in the hospital for missuse of it! Don't be irresponsable by trying to take it to the 'next level.' Now that that is done, here goes the instructions.

Don't be annoyed by those "other" files. This one will be the easiest to understand and visualize!

Quantity---Materials you need! (*** Don't substitute)

1 4" diam. Sch 40. ABS 3' length
1 2 1/2" diam. Sch 40. ABS 5 1/2' length (or less)
1 4" to 2 1/2" ABS reducer
1 B-B-Q lighter (the red button attached to b-b-q's)
1 125 mL. ABS cement, medium grey ***
1 4" diam. Sch 40. ABS Cleanout Adapter (female threads)
1 4" diam. Sch 40. ABS Cleanout Adapter Plug (male threads)
1 1/4" bolt. 3" long w/fitting nut

Instructions

First you will want to layout all your parts. Do this now.

You will want to start with the Cleanout Adapter plug, next you will want to set down the Cleanout Adapter. Then the 4" diam ABS pipe, above that you will want to set down the b-b-q lighter. After the 4" diam. pipe, put down the reducer, then finally the 2 1/2" diam. ABS pipe.

It should look like this---> (No Scale)

[Cleanout Adapter plug]
------------------------
[Cleanout Adapter]
-------------------
[4" diam. ABS pipe]
| |
| |
| | [b-b-q lighter]
| |
| |
| |
[4" to 2 1/2" reducer]
-----------------
[2 1/2" diam. ABS pipe]
| |
| | {nut & bolt}
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
__________________________

Test the fitting of the 2 12" ABS pipe and the reducer, and mark the length that goes in. Go up 1" and drill a hole big enough to push the bolt through both sides. Tighten the nut securly. Apply ABS cement to the end of the 2 1/2" diam ABs pipe that was marked. Quickly and tightly push the cemented end into the 2 1/2" hole in the reducer. Next, take the 4" diam. ABS pipe and drill a hole through one side. The exact or closest diam.of the b-b-q lighter (the end with the two leads!). Insert the end with leads into the hole, and apply cement around the exterior of the hole and b-b-q lighter. Let all the cement set for five minutes. Next apply cement to an end on the 4" diam. ABS pipe. Quickly and tighly push the cemented end into the 4" hole in the reducer. Now your construction should be a barrel with a reducer to a canister with a lighter on it.To finish to need to apply cement to the other end on the 4" diam. ABS pipe, and now for the finishing touches...quickly and tightly push the cemented end into the Cleanout Adapter (not on the threaded end!). You will also need to screw on the Cleanout Adapter Cap, but don't get any cement on that piece, this is extremly vital!

Advanced Procedures

If you want, you can get a file or grinder and grind the end of the 2 1/2" diam. ABS pipe so that it is sharp. This is so that you can jam a potato through the end and it automatically fits the barrel.

Propellants

Hair spray (two spray bursts)
Butane (small bursts)
Gasoline (two drops or so, but let the drops turn into their gas state)
Zippo fluid/lighter fluid
Hydroger (untested)
Methane (untested)
Propane
Deodorant
**Please be cautious!

Projectiles (some may need to be wadded {see below})

The reason I asked you to put in the nut and bolt is so that when you stuff you barrel, the projectile will stop exactly where it should and it will not fall into the combustion chamber.

Potatoes
PVC conduit pipe darts (see below)
Paint Ball cluster bombs (See below)
Hard boiled eggs
Soda cans
Smoke bombs
Ice slug (see below)
Shrapnel (chunks of scrap metal)
B-B's
Batteries
A glowing bag (see below)
Fruits and veggies
And almost anything else that will fit into the barrel
Use your imagination

Projectile Instructions

PVC conduit pipe darts

You will need a length of pvc conduit (small diam. than your barrel), any length. Cut the conduit at 9" length intervals starting from the female end. Not find a wooden cylinder, like a broom handle or something that it thicker than the hole in the conduit. Now get some sand paper and sand down the wood so that it is about 1mm or 2 thicker than the hole, then cut off about 1" - 3/4". Jam that wood through the end so that 2mm stick out (not flush with the conduit). *If you choose, you can apply some pvc cement to the wood befor you jam it in, although I am not sure if it helps. Next put about 2" of pennies inside the barrel (if you put them in flat you will get more per area) or enough to make the tip weighted, but never go past the half way mark in the 9".now get a piece of old clotch and cut a strip 2" wide and 1 1/2' long. Roll this strip of cloth up tight. Test fit it, if it is too wide, cut off some length. Now slop on lots of pvc cement to that baby and jam it all the way down the conduit to make contace with the pennies... get a stick and jam it in some more. ..you want it tight! Now it should be heavy in one end and light on the other. The balance point should be somewhere between the wood and the half-way mark. If it is past, then the dart may tilt down and not fly straight. Get some masking tape (1 1/2" wide) and wrap it around the open end of the conduit. Continue wrapping it until it fits your barrel snugly! Not lose, make sure it is so snug that it must be forced down the barrel, but with some ease. The snugness makes sure that no air escapes which means that the dart will go VERY FAR. These things are very dangerous...if someone is hit with one of these they will die! I'm not kidding, I have been testing these things at different distances and amounts of firing mixtures and I have put one of these rockets through 3/4" plywood, cleanly. I mean so clean that you can't see any slivers left on either side!

Paint Ball cluster bombs

You will need a handful of paint balls, and two plastic or styrofoam cups. Take a cup, put the bottom of the cup into the barrel, and make a line all the way around the cup, repeat that for the second cup. Not cut off the bottom of the cup at the line. Get some super glue and glue the ends together so it should be open end, then closed end, then open end. Now slide that down your barrel to the end. Get the handful of paintballs and put them on a paper towel. Grab each corner and bring them up to meat each other. Twist the paintballs up and run the clump of paintballs trough a mist of water to get the papaer towel wet. Slid this down the barrel, but carefully so that the paper towel does not rip or tear. When fired, this things goes out and on contact with explode with a white creamy and colorful mess or paper and paint.

Ice Slugs

Cut a length of 2 1/2" ABS pipe from the end of your barrel (or swipe it from somewhere). Now take an end and cover it with duct tape, so no water can leak out from it. Fill the pipe half full of water then put it in the freezer for 4 hours, then finish filling the pipe. Put back in freezer and let if freeze overnight. Next morning take it out, slide it from the casing and slide it into your barrel, it fits perfectly and can have major damaging effects!

A glowing bag (Make the same night of use)

Take some gardening cloth and make a ball of crumpled up cloth that will fit inside your barrel. Take another piece of cloth and cover the crumpled ball the same way with the painballs. Twist it and tie it. Now get a whole bunch of glowing stuff like the glowing paint, glowing glue, or just a bunch of glowing sticks that have been broken and put it all in a bucket. Now dunk the ball into the glowing mixture and leave it submerged for a few minutes to make sure it is saturated. Make a few of them and repeat. Leave them in the glowing stuff until you use them. Now quickly take one (with gloves on) and jam it down the barrel and fire it to oblivion. When it hits something, it makes a huge glowing mess, and while in flight looks really cool!

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons ,
homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

Checking in with New Bomb Detection Strategies

2007-12-14T08:31:00.000-08:00

Checking in with New Bomb Detection Strategies
by Mike Ellenbogen

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Checking in with New Bomb Detection Strategies

by Mike Ellenbogen

On December 21, 1988, the unforgettable bombing of Pan Am Flight 103 in the sky over Lockerbie, Scotland, claimed the lives of 259 passengers and eleven victims on the ground. More than seven years later, airlines and regulators are still struggling with how best to protect passengers from the threat of terrorist attempts to plant explosives.Detecting explosives is more difficult than detecting weapons, because explosives are not metallic and do not appear in predictable shapes. Explosive materials can be easily molded into shapes that resemble common travel items such as food or plastic bottles. These substances are virtually impossible to detect with standard x-ray technology. Even the more advanced color x-ray inspection systems have proven ineffective for detecting explosives.

Progress is being made, however. Several promising technologies are being developed; some are already in daily use. But faced with the knowledge that no system yet provides an impenetrable shield, nations have taken distinctly different approaches to the problem.

The United States. In the United States, the Federal Aviation Administration (FAA), in accordance with congressional directives, has developed a set of criteria that bomb detection technologies must meet before they can be certified. The rules establish performance thresholds that detection technologies must achieve (the specific types, amounts, and configurations of explosives that must be detectable under the criteria are classified).

By law, the FAA cannot mandate use of any bomb detection systems until systems exist that meet the criteria. Given the testing time lines, a government mandate for system installation is not imminent.

To date, only one technology, a machine using computed tomography (CT), which is derived from medical CAT scan x-ray technology, has been certified. That system, CTX 5000 by InVision Technologies, Inc., is still being tested in airports to determine how it will function in the field and to assess probable installation and operating costs.

United Airlines was the first domestic-based carrier to begin trials in the United States. These tests took place in November 1995, at San Francisco International Airport. Delta Air Lines will be next, beginning in the early spring of 1996, at Hartsfield Atlanta International Airport. This experiment will be ongoing during the 1996 Summer Olympic Games being held in Atlanta. In addition, a test will be carried out by Northwest Airlines in Manila, Philippines.

Each of these tests, which will last about one year, will help refine the integration of certified explosives detection systems into existing baggage handling systems and verify the total estimated costs of wide scale deployment of such systems.

The FAA is still exploring if and when such systems might be deployed and how widespread that deployment might be. At the same time, in search of faster, cheaper solutions, the FAA is in the process of awarding grants to help companies explore the next generation of computed tomography technology. That process, including development and testing, is expected to take about twenty-four months.

A number of other technologies are also at some stage of development or testing. For example, at least two manufacturers, Vivid Technologies, Inc., and EG&G Astrophysics, are working with dual-energy or dual-beam x-ray technology in which luggage is subjected to two different x-ray energy levels to calculate the atomic composition, density, and other characteristics of objects in the bag. Computerized analysis of the data alerts operators to suspect materials that operators or other technologies can then further examine.

Backscatter technology offers a variation on this theme. In addition to transmitting an x-ray beam through the luggage, it places a receiver on the same side of the bag. The x-rays, which are scattered back, are then analyzed by a computer program. As with the dual-energy technology, a series of algorithms makes computations based on density readings and other factors to determine whether a material is suspect.

Backscatter technology is already used successfully by U.S. Customs Service personnel. The FAA has found it particularly effective for detecting items placed close to the surface of a bag, which other technology is not as adept at detecting, and several manufacturers are exploring backscatter in conjunction with dual-energy technologies.

Another detection method being tested is quadrupole resonance (QR) technology, derived from magnetic resonance imaging used in hospitals. In this case, the elements in a bag are subjected to radio frequency energy rather than x-ray beams. Each material sends back a unique signal rather than an image.

One such system manufactured by Quantum Magnetics completed a field trial at Los Angeles International Airport in early December. That test, explains Llowell Burnett, the company's chief technical officer, was to determine whether the system could function in a real airport setting, without being affected by such factors as radar signals. This trial was not a test of speed (baggage throughput rates), as the luggage was manually loaded. The company plans to test baggage handling speeds along with other factors during its second field trial to be carried out at an airport in the United Kingdom. That test may be completed as early as this month. (Separately, the company is also having a smaller version of the system tested as a potential screening device that could be used by any company for mail packages in an office environment.)

According to Norman E. L. Shanks, head of group security for BAA plc, which manages several UK airports, QR looks promising at this stage but more data needs to be collected. After the UK tests, says Burnett, the company will determine how to proceed to meet the FAA certification standards.

The above technologies are being developed for screening checked baggage. For passenger screening, the FAA is exploring related technologies for use in walk-through portals. For example, they are working with two companies in the developmental stage to combine trace detection technology with metal detection for simultaneous weapon and bomb detection. Airport testing of at least one model is anticipated in late 1996 or early 1997.

The human factor. The FAA, through its Aviation Security Human Factors Program, is also researching ways to enhance the selection, training, and performance of security personnel who must operate explosives detection systems. Trials will involve the purchase, installation, and testing of various training and performance systems. Operational and cost data will be collected and analyzed to assess results. The demonstrations, to be conducted at the nineteen category X (high traffic) U.S. airports, are scheduled to begin in 1996.

Currently, the cognitive skills and processes for optimal detection of threat objects are poorly understood. Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University is developing a screener selection test battery that could be used to predict successful screener performance in the field. The tests examine two types of visual perception: the ability to detect hidden patterns and the ability to detect hidden figures. Tests will be given to job applicants prior to selection. The predictive validity of the results will be determined by correlating applicant preemployment scores with on-the-job performance.

A trial of the test's predictive validity for operators using conventional x-ray equipment is currently underway at the Chicago O'Hare Airport. A comparable test of the predictive capabilities for operators using CT technology will be conducted once that equipment is operational at the demonstration sites mentioned earlier.

The effectiveness of screener training methods will be evaluated by comparing the threat detection performance of personnel before and after training sessions. To make such a comparison, validated baseline data that accurately capture screener capabilities are needed. efforts are underway to determine the baseline performance of x-ray screeners faced with the job of detecting improvised explosive devices. These tests consist of a computer presentation of many digitized x-ray images, some of which contain improvised explosive devices. A similar test of performance using CT equipment will be performed.

Research is also being conducted regarding methods that might counteract normal human failings, such as inattention from repetition. Screener attention levels and detection performance have been found to degrade over time. An operational test will be conducted to determine if fictional threat objects can be used to motivate screeners and maintain screener attention and performance levels over time. The FAA is operationally testing a system called Screener Proficiency Evaluation and Reporting System Threat Image Projection (SPEARS TIP), which places an x-ray image of a fictional threat object onto the x-ray image of a bag actually being examined. After the SPEARS TIP device meets FAA functional requirements, it will be field tested at category X airports.

Currently, only a few manufacturers of x-ray equipment provide machines compatible with the SPEARS TIP device. To address this constraint, a feasibility study is being done on developing an interface so these devices can be connected to conventional x-ray machines.

Europe/United Kingdom. In Europe and the United Kingdom, airlines and regulators have taken a more incremental approach-installing the best currently available technologies and hoping to upgrade those systems as improvements are developed.

England has taken the lead with a regulatory goal of screening 100 percent of checked baggage by 1996. Their rationale is simple. If a technology can provide a significant improvement over the existing system and procedure, it should be used until the next significant advance in performance is achieved. "The legal framework in the U.S. works against this equipment being deployed because it is not certified, whereas within the U.K. and Europe, the view is being taken that...while it's being used, it will be developed further," explains the BAA's Shanks, "so that in time the security performance will be improved as part of the exposure into the operational area."

To meet the 100 percent goal using conventional or enhanced x-ray systems, the United Kingdom's regulatory authority ruled that at least 10 percent of all checked baggage must be hand searched. However, the hand search requirement would be waived if advanced technology systems became available.

With this incentive, airport operators throughout England have been exploring their options, such as the use of advanced "smart" x-ray systems that could be fully integrated into existing airport baggage handling systems.

One such integrated hold baggage screening scheme has been developed as a joint effort between BAA and Vivid, using the dual-energy x-ray technology mentioned earlier. The BAA is working with other manufacturers as well. Several of these systems have been in daily use in airports throughout the United Kingdom since 1993.

Similar implementation programs are in progress in virtually every European nation. The thirty-two-member European Civil Aviation Conference (ECAC) coordinates civil aviation security procedures for its members as well as for the European Union.

The thirty-two members of the ECAC are at various stages of implementing the 100 percent checked baggage screening programs, with many of them already screening a significant percentage of international baggage. Systems are screening baggage at Aberdeen, Amsterdam, Brussels, Edinburgh, Gatwick, Glasgow, Heathrow, Stansted, Southampton, and Zurich international airports.

In each of these cases, baggage is screened after check-in while it is en route to the aircraft. BAA's Shanks says that in addition to the main issue of detection levels (which aren't openly discussed), they are grappling with throughput and tracking.

Government, industry, and the manufacturers have been working together to perfect the process of moving bags through the line, fully integrating the detection technology into the existing baggage handling system "in such a way that would not reduce the existing baggage handling capacity," explains Shanks. It is also critical, he notes, "that once the bag has gone through the x-ray screening process, that we know exactly where it is at any point on that belt, so if we have to pull it off at some point for a further stage of screening, we can do that with 100 percent accuracy. "

Tracking is at the heart of a five-step screening process in use by BAA and other UK airport operators. In step one, all checked baggage where the systems are already in place go through initial screening, as with the dual-energy x-ray technology, automatically while en route through the handling system.

In step two, any bags designated as suspect are examined by a human operator. This second level of inspection can operate at a slower belt speed since it is only being used to examine bags rejected by the automated level-one system. Often, with a slower belt speed, higher image quality can be achieved for operator assisted screening.

Level two focuses the operator on the specific threat object, enabling more accurate and efficient inspection of the bag. The operator inspects the bag for additional components present in a functional explosive device, such as detonators, wires, batteries, and timing devices. The vast majority of bags are cleared by the level-two operator and sent on to the aircraft.

The industry recognized early in the development of the integrated screening approach that bags need not be subjected to the x-ray process at level one and again at level two. If the data from the level one inspection can be viewed by an operator at level two, the second x-ray system can be eliminated.

Matrixed workstations in the Vivid system, for example, allow the level-two operators to inspect bags rejected by the automated level-one system "on-the-fly, " or while the bags are en route to the aircraft. The system's configuration eliminates the need for a second conveyor belt or duplicate screening-reducing installation costs and additional space requirements.

The x-ray mainframe at level one continues to automatically screen bags while the operator uses the workstation for level-two inspection. Alarms from multiple level-one mainframes are dynamically distributed across a pool of level-two operators. The server communicates the results of the level-two inspection to the baggage handling system.

If the bag is not cleared by the human operator at level two, it is diverted to level three, where it is subjected to additional screening with trace detection technology or computed tomography, for example. As mentioned earlier, in the United States CT is the only FAA-certified technology. But it is slow. For that reason, Shanks says, "we see it very clearly as our third-stage" tool rather than as a technology for use in a high-volume level-one system.

In step four, a suspect bag is reconciled with the passenger if necessary and opened in front of the owner. Step five entails the treatment of problem luggage not given the green light through any of the prior steps.

Traditional hold baggage screening methods require multiple conventional x-ray imaging systems within the terminal building, in addition to a large staff of trained operators. This approach is not only expensive, but subjects passengers to an additional screening process and consumes a considerable amount of valuable floor space in the terminal that can be better used for retail and passenger service. Detection systems that are fully integrated into the existing baggage handling system save time and space. A single operator can effectively man each line, thereby significantly reducing recurring costs.

Putting detection technology into existing baggage handling systems has been a challenge, says BAA's Shanks, but it is working. "We've proved those [technologies] sufficiently to start preparing feasibility studies for those locations which we still need to introduce the screening in."

From the UK perspective, the view is "the equipment is out there," explains Shanks. "It is available. It is working very efficiently on a daily basis."

Back in the United States, the House International Relations Committee has asked the General Accounting Office to review bomb detection technology as part of a larger look at technologies that can be used to fight terrorism and drug trafficking. They plan to examine the threat scenario, the state of the technology, cost and performance issues, and whether government agencies are effectively coordinating research and development efforts. That report will not be completed until the fall, after which the committee will consider whether to hold hearings or take other action. In the meantime, checked baggage in the U.S. continues to go unscreened.

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons ,
homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

Match Bombs

2007-12-14T08:30:00.000-08:00

Match Bombs
by Brian

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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Match Bomb # 1

You should be very careful when making eihter one of these bombs, and when you set them off throw them far away.

Ingredients:

1.Tennis ball
2.Sharp knife
3.A box of strike-anywhere-matches with the white tip
4.Scissors

Assembly: First you get the scissors and you cut off the heads of about 100 matches, you might need more so keep the supplies out. Next you cut a slit (not a hole)in the tennis ball. Then you open up the slit and pour all of the match heads in it until you can't cram any more in. To set it off all you do is throw the tennis ball hard against the ground and the matches will light each other, but since they have no oxygen it explodes.

Match Bomb #2

You should throw this bomb farther away then the first one.

Ingredients: 1.A metal pipe (about a foot long) with threads on both sides and with a cap on each side (you can buy this at your local hardware store)
2.Two boxes of strike-anywhere-matches
3.Scissors

Assembly:

First you put one cap on one sides of the pipe tightly. Then you cut the heads off of a box worth of matches, pour them all in the pipe until they are packed, but a little loose. All you do from here is tightly screw on the other lid and chuck the pipe into the air, over concrete (while it is mid air run). This bomb will blow up much bigger than the first one because it takes a lot more pressure to blow up a pipe than blow up a tennis ball so run far.

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons ,
homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

Cheap, Quick, Easy Bomb & Cannon

2007-12-14T08:27:00.001-08:00

First of all, understand that it is not the authors fault if anyone makes, injures or does anything stupid with this device. This is reference ONLY!

Step 1: Go to your local hobby store and buy a package of C 8-3 model rocket engines. Also, make sure that there are igniters.

Step 2: Cut the engine open with hobby knife,then peel off cardboard.

Step 3: Take and cut of gray stuff that was the nozzle, then grind this up into a powder any way you want. Just be careful with this step.

Step 4: Get hold of a broom with a hollow metal handle, the thicker the metal the better. Cut the broomhandle to a 16" length, making sure the cuts you made are even, and the edges not folded inward.

Step 5: Get say a metal bottle cap, and drill a hole small enough for the part on the ignitor were the 2 wires join.(or if you don't want to bother, you can use a long fuse)

Step 6:solder, hot glue, weld, super glue(whatever you can, but welding is best)the cap to one end of the broom handle.

Step 7: Nows a good time to find a place to shoot this sucker. also, you might want to fi it to a bi-pod or something.

Step 8: Now were ready to arm this sucker. Gently, stick the ignitor tip into the hole in the bottom of the tube. Now, slowly, poor all the ground rocket engine into the tube.

Step 9: Now keep in mind, this is alot of eplosives, so use safety. get 2 30'+ thin wires with small aligator clips at each end, a switch, anda 12 volt lantern battery. Atach the aligator clips from both wires to the to leads of the ignitor. attach those up with teh battery and switch. now with the alligator clips off the battery, go and stick in anything metal and kinda heavy(not more than 1/2 ounce).

Step 10: With the switch in the off position, connect the wires to the battery after double checking that the igniters still in there. Then Hide behind something and flip the switch. it may take a little while, up to 60 seconds, if it takes longer, disconnect the batery and wait like 5 minutes to see what went wrong. hide behind something the first couple times incase you or I fouled up.

Optional

Take a three servo remote and glue the servo battery, unit and all that on an RC car/boat, then glue a servos moving arm thingy to the side of anouther servo. Then mount the first one sideways on like a tail scoop or whatever it's called. Then, once the servos are mounted, glue the gun to the arm of the servo that is now upright and level. Then shorten the barrel to 9". Have the third servo so that it connects 2 wires so that when you move third servo, BOOM! the other two are so that you can aim up down left and right for quickness. also with this it may be a good idea to use a smaller and lighteer projectile and a little less eplosives.

The latter of this file is untested, so use extreme caution. But it is also coming from the mind of an anarchy genious who loves RC cars, so t should work just fine.

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

MSAC Explosive

2007-12-14T08:25:00.000-08:00

MSAC (Methanol Salt Aluminium Charcoal ,H602NA3C2)

Ingredients:

Methanol
Sodium Chloride(Table Salt)
Aluminium Powder
Charcoal
A Glass jar

1 Make a very fine powder of the Sodium Chloride,Do this also with the Charcoal.
2 Mix 1 part Charcoal with 6 parts Sodium Chloride.
3 Ad to the Salt/Charcoal mixture 2.5 parts of Aluminium Powder.
4 Put this mixture into the glass jar and pour 1 part of Methanol to it, Stir for 1 minute and let it soak for 1hour.

Blasting Cap(Source:The Navy Seal Improvised Explosives & Incediary's Handbook):

Fill a Co2 Cartridge with Black Powder and put a fuse in it.

To Detonate:

The best way to detonate MSAC is to putt it into a Steel pipe and put the Blastingcap in it.

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

How To Use 0266 Codes

2007-11-22T09:33:00.001-08:00

How To Use 0266 Codes

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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
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11/6/89

- Jester's guide to 950-0266's for the new Phreaker -

This is a file I just decided to write , right after a guy
that lives near me, who runs a bbs complained about his
outrageously high phone bill, and being that I use 0266's I
decided that I would TRY to write a text file on how to use
this simple way of phreaking. I have only been phreaking for 2
months, so what Im about to type is done so with the best of
my knowledge.

There are many different types of 950's, but the type I use is
the 950-0266 and I use these because that is what I was taught
with and they seem like a fairly good, and easy way to phreak.
950-0266s are known to have VERY clean lines, so they are
perfect to use with modems.

The basic format for these codes are:
(1) Dial 950-0266
(2) Wait for tone then dial your 7 digit Code
(3) Right after dialing your Code dial your ACN (Area Code
Number)
I.E. if I were to call my friend Joe in Utah, I would do
this...
950-0266 (tone) XXXXXXX8015551234
The X's stand for the 7 digit code

950's have known to be dangerouse, they are on ESS (electronic
switching service) which is a phreaks nightmare. Being that
950's are on the ESS they can, and have been known to trace.
The type of tracing service on 950's can trace in a heart
beat, so there is somewhat a great risk in using these.
* Some precautions about using 950s - Do NOT use the same code
for more then 3 days. Try to use different codes if you have
them i.e. call one board with a code like 2314211 , and then
call the next board with a totally different code. Use these
codes during prime time, to cut the risk of getting caught
down. And use these in moderation, do not get crazy with them.

I hope this file hasnt been to much of a waste of time, I
hope it has offered some help to you in using 950-0266's.

If this file has offered you some kind of assistance, or if
you just hate it, call my VMB (voice mail box) at :
1-800-444-7207 box # 9542
or call my other VMB at :
1-800-444-7212 hit 4 then box 249

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

A fairly complete list of 10xxx codes for LD compa

2007-11-22T09:31:00.002-08:00

A fairly complete list of 10xxx codes for LD compa

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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This is the most complete 10xxx (pronounced ten triple ex) table I have been
able to get. Not all of these companies offer originating service in all
locations, and many require an account on their system. Some, like
10214- Tyler Telecom of Tyler, TX, is usable only from eastern Texas.
Others that seem local can be gotten into from the strangest of places.

To use these normally from your home phone, you would dial 10xxx, where 'x'
is the three digit code shown, followed by 1, then the area code and
number desired.

To find out if the service is usable in your area, dial 10xxx-1-700-555-4141.
You will then get one of several responses. The most common is "Doo-Daa-Dee
Your call cannot be completed with that access code." or "That long distance
service is un-available in your area". If the carrier is available
from your switch, you then hear something like "You have reached the AT&T
long distance network. Thank you for choosing AT&T. This message will
not be repeated."

If you find a little known carrier that you might like an account on, look
up the name in the phone book. If it is not there, try dialing 10xxx-0, and
wait for an operator to come on. Ask her for the 800 number so that you
can open an account, and ask her what town she is located in.

If you would like to just guess at an account, dial 10xxx-0-NPA-7D, and listen
for the ka-bong. You must then enter some digits. For AT&T, thats 10 digits
of some ones home phone, and then 4 digits of secret code.

If you just use the carrier from your home phone, many times the bill will
come on your local telco bill; others times,the carrier bills you separately.

Please note the tariff provides that these companies are entitled to receive
your name, address and telephone number from your local telco, even if your
service is non-published. Whether they pass that along to whoever you call
depends on how modern their equipment is. A few make good extenders this way.

001 MidAmerican LD (Republic Telecom)
002 AmeriCall LDC
003 RCI Corporation
007 Tel America
011 Metromedia Long Distance
012 Charter Corporation (Tri-J)
013 Access Services
021 Mercury
022 MCI Telecommunications
023 Texnet
024 Petricca Communications Systems
028 Texnet
030 Valu-Line of Wichita Falls
031 Teltec Saving Communications
033 US Sprint
036 Long Distance Savers
039 Electronic Office Centers of America (EO/Tech)
042 First Phone
044 Allnet Communication Services (LDX, Lexitel)
053 American Network (Starnet)
056 American Satellite
057 Long Distance Satellite
059 COMNET
060 Valu-Line of West Texas
063 COMNET
069 V/COM
070 National Telephone Exchange
080 AMTEL Systems
084 Long Distance Service (LDS)
085 WesTel
088 Satellite Business Systems (MCI)
089 Telephone Systems
090 WesTel
093 Rainbow Communications
095 Southwest Communications
099 AmeriCall
122 RCA Global Communications
137 All America Cables and Radio (ITT)
142 First Phone
146 ARGO Communications
188 Satellite Business Systems
201 PhoneNet
202 ExecuLines
203 Cypress Telecommunications (Cytel)
204 United Telephone Long Distance
206 United Telephone Long Distance
211 RCI
212 Call US
213 Long Distance Telephone Savers
214 Tyler Telecom
215 Star Tel of Abilene
217 Call US
219 Call USA
220 Western Union Telegraph
222 MCI Telecommunications (SBS)
223 Cable & Wireless Communication (TDX)
224 American Communications
227 ATH Communications (Call America)
229 Bay Communications
232 Superior Telecom
233 Delta Communications
234 AC Teleconnect (Alternative Communication)
237 Inter-Comm Telephone
239 Woof Communications (ACT)
241 American Long Lines
242 Choice Information Systems
244 Automated Communications
245 Taconic Long Distance Service
250 Dial-Net
252 Long Distance/USA
253 Litel Telecommunications
255 All-State Communications
256 American Sharecom
260 Advanced Communications Systems
263 Com Systems (Sun Dial Communications)
268 Compute-A-Call
276 CP National (American Network, Starnet)
284 American Telenet
286 Clark Telecommunications
287 ATS Communications
288 AT&T Communications
298 Thriftline
302 Austin Bestline
303 MidAmerican LD (Republic Telecom)
311 SaveNet (American Network, Starnet)
318 Long Distance Savers
321 Southland Systems
322 American Sharecom
324 First Communication
331 Texustel
333 US Sprint
336 Florida Digital Network
338 Midco Communications
339 Communication Cable Laying
343 Communication Cable Laying
345 AC Teleconnect (Alternative Communication)
350 Dial-Net
355 US Link
357 Manitowoc Long Distance Service
362 Electronic Office Centers of America (EO/Tech)
363 Tel-Toll (Econ-O-Dial of Bishop)
369 American Satellite
373 Econo-Line Waco
375 Wertern Union Telegraph
385 The Switchboard
393 Execulines of Florida
400 American Sharecom
404 MidAmerican LD (Republic Telecom)
412 Penn Telecom
428 Inter-Comm Telephone
432 Lightcall
435 Call-USA
436 Indiana Switch
440 Tex-Net
441 Escondido Telephone
442 First Phone
444 Allnet Communication Services (LDX, Lexitel)
455 Telecom Long Distance
456 ARGO Communications
462 American Network Services
464 Houston Network
465 Intelco
466 International Office Networks
469 GMW
472 Hal-Rad Communications
480 Chico Telecom (Call America)
488 United States Transmission Systems (ITT)
505 San Marcos Long Distance
515 Burlington Telephone
529 Southern Oregon Long Distance
532 Long Distance America
533 Long Distance Discount
536 Long Distance Management
550 Valu-Line of Alexandria
551 Pittsburg Communication Systems
552 First Phone
555 TeleSphere Networks
566 Cable & Wireless Communication (TDX)
567 Advanced Marketing Services (Dial Anywhere)
579 Lintel System (Lincoln Telephone LD)
590 Wisconsin Telecommunications Tech
599 Texas Long Distance Conroe
601 Discount Communications Services
606 Biz Tel Long Distance Telephone
622 Metro America Communications
634 Econo-Line Midland
646 Contact America
654 Cincinnati Bell Long Distance
655 Ken-Tel Service
660 Tex-Net
666 Southwest Communications
675 Network Services
680 Midwest Telephone Service
682 Ashland Call America
684 Nacogdoches Telecommunications
687 NTS Communications
700 Tel-America
704 Inter-Exchange Communications
707 Telvue
709 Tel-America
717 Pass Word
726 Procom
727 Conroe-Comtel
735 Marinette-Menominee Lds
737 National Telecommunications
741 ClayDesta
742 Phone America of Carolina
743 Peninsula Long Distance Service
747 Standard Informations Services
755 Sears Communication
757 Pace Long Distance Service
759 Telenet Communication (US Sprint)
760 American Satellite
766 Yavapai Telephone Exchange
771 Telesystems
777 US Sprint
785 Olympia Telecom
786 Shared Use Network Service
787 Star Tel of Abilene
788 ASCI's Telepone Express Network
789 Microtel
792 Southwest Communications
800 Satelco
801 MidAmerican LD (Republic)
827 TCS Network Services
833 Business Telecom
839 Cable & Wireless Communication (TDX)
847 VIP Connections
850 TK Communications
852 Telecommunicatons Systems
859 Valu-Line of Longview
866 Alascom
872 Telecommunications Services
874 Tri-Tel Communications
879 Thriftycall (Lintel Systems)
881 Coastal Telephone
882 Tuck Data Communications
883 TTI Midland-Odessa
884 TTI Midland-Odessa
885 The CommuniGroup
888 Satellite Business Systems (MCI)
895 Texas on Line
897 Leslie Hammond (Phone America)
898 Satellite Business Systems (MCI)
910 Montgomery Telamarketing Communication
915 Tele Tech
933 North American Communications
936 Rainbow Commuinications
937 Access Long Distance
938 Access Long Distance
951 Transamerica Telecommunications
955 United Communications
960 Access Plus
963 Tenex Communications
969 Dial-Net
985 America Calling
986 MCI Telecommunications (SBS)
987 ClayDesta Communications
988 Western Union Telegraph
991 Access Long Distance

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

The freephone numbers in the UK with computers on

2007-11-22T09:31:00.001-08:00

1? ? 0 5 5 5 5 5 6 0800 MODEM CONNECTS
++++++++0800-896-XXX Scanned by cODeWalKeR of DaC And COVER+++++++

OK in addition to my phellow hacker the most god like phallic symbol of fertility
SCRIBLA. Greets also go out to SMURF....and...... JJJJJAAAAFFFFFF !!!!!
OK please remember that the "STAFF" at D.A.C. have spent many,many, nights
scanning these numbers for you and hope you all appreciate the work that has gone into this list, it not be very long but we are talking 1,000,s of numbers scanned
to find the 0800 numbers with systems for you to "HACK". So we would be more than
dissapointed not to hear from anyone who has downloaded this list and "hacked" into
one of these systems and not told us the results. So don't be complete TROGLODYTE
AND LET US ALL HAVE THE FRUITS OF YOUR LABOUR, THIS IS WHAT KEEPS US
GOING!!! Anyway nuff said, here are the numbers for you to fuck with and remember
all this phun to be had and it won't cost you anyting it's FFFFFRRRRRRREEEEEEEE!!
All these nimbers were scanned 31/5/94,in the twilight hours. Greets to all !!!

cOdEwAlKeR

0800 896 031
085
094
118
173
195
227
239
422
520
570
574
657

Oops almost forgot here is a few more i have been given by sCrIbLa !!! (respect)
0800 893 901
939
944
And because i'm addicted to this here are some i stumbeled upon before i went to bed
at such a fucking stupid hour again !!
0800 895 093
085 (300 buad)
054 (9600, 8 n 1)
ok guys here's the good one !!!!!!
CALL 0800 895 051 (not all at once) then type "help", then type "calleml"
that should get you started!!! sorry almost forgot 9600 baud,8/n/1. Watch out for system
security!!!!!!, it will ask for your I.D. at any time ,sorry but i can't help you there.

0800 895 011
898 028 (with this one you must set your moup to
connect AFTER you have dialed the number then hit the " * " key yourself ?)
021
044
030
038
The following numbers were taken for an old txt phile and I have updated them,they are as follows... 0800 262 243
282 278
443
861 (7/e/1)
542
871 (7/e/1) try cltr=e/q
289 396 (the code is xxx-xxxx )
586
643
817 Fun to fuck with!!
835
836
Well I think thats all i'm going to do now i think about 7,000 numbers have been scanned
and I think we should leave some for the rest of you. We have had a few connects on the
following numbers but they have not been completley scanned , so you may want to try
the following blocks of numbers yourself. 0800 289 2xx, 4xx, 7xx, and 0800 282 2xx, 3xx
4xx, 5xx,6xx. Also 0800 262 2xx. Well have phun and upload the results to us all. if you
want to exchange notes then leave a message for me.

Contact me on UnAuThOrIsEd AcCeSs
0636467

cOdEwAlKrE....C

PS 0800 899 899 (9600 7/E/1)

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

A list of 1- 800 extenders

2007-11-22T09:27:00.000-08:00

A list of 1- 800 extenders

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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
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1-800 Extenters
---------------

Number Code Length Co.
------ ----------- ---
325-7222 6
328-4700 7
521-8400 8 Travelnet (GM)
437-7010 14 Calling Card
325-7499 6 Am. Network
227-0073 7
558-7888 6 or 7?
626-9600 7
637-7377 7 DANGEROUS!!!!!
446-4462 6 or 7 Skyline (MCI)
^ also 950-1088 ^local, 7 national
858-4009 6 or 7 NTS (Texas)
221-2480 8 (1+)
345-0008 6 US Telecom
762-3638 6
538-0007 6
922-0918 6 RCI
336-7817 6 ANY 6 works!
^CAREFUL!
221-0902 5?
633-8880 3
526-7490 6
527-3511 8 (2 tries)
558-1000 6 MCI
843-0698 6 MCI
682-4000 6
237-9300 ?
882-2255 5 Americom
221-1950 14 Calling Card
221-8190 1xxx+6 digits? RCA
523-7248 4?
321-0424 8?
321-0845 6
323-4313 5
327-0005 2800+?
368-4222 8
368-5963 14 MCI Call Card
547-1784 6 Am. Network
448-8989 8
621-1703 6

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

Lego Silencer

2007-11-22T03:14:00.001-08:00

by Kipling

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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
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Items needed:

-round dowel (wood or rubber) that is the diameter of the pipe (it must fit tightly into the pipe so it doesn't fall out).)

-handlebar grip (the kind used on mountainbike handlebars) basically a long thin tube of rubber that is a fair thickness like that of a handlebar grip.

-pipe approx. 4-6 inches long which is not more than a few millimeters bigger than the handlebar grip in diameter.

- lego tires. the ones from the older lego. They were all one piece and kind of looked like this [ ]------------[ ] the 'rims' that the tires were on were redthe rest of the lego piece was usually black.

Instructions: take the pipe (I used a metal one with the pipe walls being only about a millimeter thickness) and slide the rubber handlebar grip all the way over it so the outside of the pipe is covered with the grip. Now take the lego tires (take them off the lego 'rims'. all you need is the tires themselves) and slide them down the inside of the pipe so they are evenly spaced at approx. half a centimeter from each other all the way down the inside of the pipe.

The tires should be a tight, snug fit as you are pushing down the pipe otherwise they will fall out of the pipe. so choose your pipe diameter accordingly. Leave some space free from lego tires inside the pipe at both ends. you will need to take the dowel (rubber or wood) and drill a hole exactly in the center which is approx. a millemeter bigger than a .22 cal. bullet.

Now you need to force it in one end of the silencer. This will become the "muzzle" (where the bullet comes out)of the silencer. Now wrap masking tape around the end of the barrel of your gun until the diameter of the tape is as thick as the inside diameter of your silencer. Finally you can now slide your silencer onto the end of your gunbarrel. Make sure it is a presice fit and that the muzzle of your gun lines up perfectly with the muzzle of your silencer otherwise the bullet will take the silencer with it next time you fire the gun.

When you fire the gun you will hear a high pitched noise (like a tweet) simmilar to what you hear on movies when someone uses a silencer. This takes approx. a couple hours to make and is fairly easy to make. I got the idea for this from other articles on this website, all I did was try to think of some alternate materials which would be easier to find around the house. But this works really great and you can make a bunch of them really easily and quickly for all your firearms. I only tried it on a .22 LR rifle using supersonic rounds, but I'm sure it would work on other calibers as well as long as you always make sure that the bullet itself is able to easily fit throught all the tires and the end dowel otherwise your silencer will be history the first time you try it.

An Aussie Beer Can Mortar

2007-11-22T03:13:00.000-08:00

by Andy

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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
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Once apon a time well before I was connected to the net........

About Me..

Married, one ruggie, and a military man.

As a mechanical fitter I have been employed many times to manufacture tools and jigs for other tradesmen working in different departments in my unit. I have an interest in firearms (and weapons)of all types. I have used my skills to manufacture model, nad larger cannon as well as helping mates with legal modifications to there firearms. Yes I have also committed the most grevious of sins by de-activating or de-milling other wise serviceable weapons just because they were unfasionable at the time. I will never vote for that government again!!

Well any way one day...

I happened upon a large peice of brass round stock 125mm x 400mm. Too nice to be left lying around, too short for a cannon, just right for a mortar. So a quick look at my reference material and a suitable mortar shape was drawn up, scaled to give the least waste from the raw material... and just the right size to be bored to 62mm. A nice clearence diameter for a Victoria Bitter Beer Can. The exact dimentions of my mortar are unimportant, needless to say that I overengineered to some degree.

The projectile was selected because of:

A, size

b, shape

c, diameter

and, d, abundance!

The brass stock was offered to my trusty lathe and trued up externaly then drilled and bored to size. External dimentions were basic as all a Blackpowder mortar is, is a short, thick tube. The trunnion is located at the base, just the same as the modern stokes mortar, with a wooden carrage.

Mortars and Howitsers have a common theme, use a small powder charge to lob the projectile to the desired range. Many early mortar have huge bore sizes enabling large diameter projectiles to be fired short distances, all that was needed then. In keeping with the mortar theme a powder chamber 30mm in Dia. x 30mm deep was machined into the base of the short barrel.

Initial testing of the mortar with empty and gravel filled beer cans proved dissapointing.

The thinking cap went on and the very next weekend ten concrete filled beer cans were ready for some serious R&D

The Big day (no not Trinity NM 1945) but close!

A blow by blow account by Brat (not his real name)and Andy..

"Will it work this time" Snickered Brat.

"Fu** off Brat, I've just finished greasing the can, it would justabout fit your a** keep it up!" I retorted, we are really good mates!

"Eat me" or words to that effect snapped Brat.

"Is that all the powder you are going to use?" asked Brat

"Is the wick long enough?"

"Should'nt you push the can in more? finished Brat, the expert.

"Who's fu**ing this duck, stand back wicks lit" I replied.

"Shit"

BOOOM..gasp for breath, good shockwave!

The can launched out of that thing like a scalded cat (and we havew seen some oof those), rose to 200 meters, reached apogee (dictonary job) and tumbled into a lake at the 175 meter mark on the range (1/2 way between the turkeys and the rams. The thud of impact was preceded by the 10 meter shower of water glinting in the morning sun.

Just afterwards I was basking in wonder of what I had done, watching the thick cloud of smoke lasily drifd down range when I heared a funny noize...

"Is that you Brat?" I asked

"Mummummf, MMUMMF!"

"Speak up prick!" I replied as I turned to see Brat. His eyes were rolled back, in one bony hand was a beer can, in the other the powder flask and the reason he was incoherent 6" of wick clenched in between his drooling lips.

"OK your turn"

On a more analitical note:

Range at 45 - 55 Deg 180 to 250 meters

Altitude 200 to 250 meters, by eye

F grade Blackpowder only, augmented with homemade stuff to fill the chamber

Only the finest VB cans were used

Lots of Vasiline as lube

Felt wadding

commercial cannon fuse

The bore fouled up quickly, probably because of my blackpowder

Cement (mortar mix) strenghtened the can and increased pressure nicely.

We stood well back!!! and still felt the shock wave.

Standard disclamers, I'm telling a story, not giving instructions!!!

A BEER CAN IN FLIGHT IS A WONDERFUL SIGHT!

AIM

Jail-bird Ice Pick

2007-11-22T03:12:00.002-08:00

by 6ic-Cee

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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
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The Jailbird Ice Pick

6-C

There's an ice-pick jailbirds make! Pro-lifers make these and kill each other with this; here's how to make it!

You'll Need:

A little bit of seran wrap or any king of plastic really.
A tooth brush.
Fire.

How to Make: Take the plastic and wrap it around the head of the tooth-brush tightly, put the head into an open flame from, let's say, a lighter untill it catches fire. Let it burn a bit, then, scrape it against the concrete floor untill you have a really sharp tooth-brush

GloveGun

2007-11-22T03:12:00.001-08:00

by Corza

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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
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GloveGun

Materials:

Small metal Rubber glove fingers Duct tape

Optional: Welder

Step one:

Cut the finger of one ruber glove right down near the base. Get some pipe and make sure its just big enough so that you can strech the glove over it and it stays on.

Step two:

Cut the pipe to about 35 cm and 10 cm for a handle.

Step three:

Cut the end of the handle bit at 45 degrees, then weld it at the very end of the 35cm peice so it is in the shape of a number 7.

Step four:

Duct tape the handle up, and file of any cut ends. Then duct tape a glove finger about 3cms on the end of the pipe.

How to use:

Use fishing sinkers, ball bearings or my prefered ammo, metal nuts about one cm across. You can experiment with ammo and by putting a laser pointer on top but do not use rocks cause they cut up the glove fingers

Big Bullets For Beginners

2007-11-22T03:11:00.001-08:00

by Anonymous

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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
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Big Bullets for Beginners Guns are generally classified according to use, size, and tradition. This varies among the military services. The basic distinction is between small arms and artillery. Any gun below a 20- millimeter bore size is generally classified as a small arm. The Army distinguishes among mortars, howitzers, and guns.

Mortars give high trajectories with short range and are usually loaded from the muzzle. Howitzers give medium-to-high trajectories, and guns provide flat-to-medium trajectories of longer range. Bore size is usually given in millimeters.

A gun can be considered as a particular kind of heat engine. In operation, the propellant charge located in the gun chamber is ignited by the primer. Gases produced by combustion of the propellant grains cause a rapid buildup of pressure. When a certain pressure is reached (shot-start pressure) which overcomes the forces of projectile weight and engraving of the projectile in the rifling, the projectile begins to move toward the muzzle which causes an increase in chamber volume. A maximum pressure is reached a few inches from the origin of rifling followed by a decrease in pressure all the way to the muzzle. At the muzzle, the pressure is 10 percent to 30 percent of the maximum pressure, depending on the geometry of the propellant grains.

Artillery ammunition can be classified in many ways. One classification is based on the manner in which the components are assembled for loading and firing. Complete rounds of artillery ammunition are known as either semi-fixed or separate loading. In contrast, small arms rounds are FIXED ammunition, with which it is not possible to adjust the amount of propellant in the cartridge case).

Semi-fixed ammunition is characterized by an adjustable propelling charge. The propellant is divided into increments, or charges, and each increment of propellant is contained in a cloth bag. All of the cloth bags are held together by an acrylic cord, and are stored in the cartridge case. The primer is an integral part of the cartridge case, and is located on the base. Semi-fixed ammunition may be issued fuzed or unfuzed. Semi-fixed ammunition is used in 105mm howitzers. The ammunition is shipped in a wooden crate, with two fiber tubes in each crate. The fiber tubes are sealed at each end with tape. Upon removing the tape, the cannoneer will place the heavy end down first, and remove the projectile from the fiber tube. Next, the cartridge case is removed. Both the projectile and canister MUST REMAIN in their fiber cups until firing. Separate loading ammunition has four separate components: primer, propellant, projectile, and fuze. The four components are issued separately. Upon preparation for firing, the projectile and propellant are loaded into the howitzer in two separate operations. Separate loading ammunition is used in 155mm howitzers.

There are two explosive trains in each conventional round of artillery ammunition; the PROPELLING CHARGE EXPLOSIVE TRAIN, and the PROJECTILE EXPLOSIVE TRAIN. The projectile reaches the target area by the power obtained from the propelling charge explosive train. The function of the projectile in the target area depends on the type of projectile explosive train.

The propelling charge explosive train consists of the primer, igniter, and propellant. The propelling charge explosive train is initiated by the primer, which is a small amount of very sensitive explosive. The primer is very sensitive to shock, friction, spark, and heat, and must be kept protected and away from other ammunition components. In separate loading ammunition, the primer is a separate item of issue. The igniter provides hot flaming gases and particles to ignite the propelling charge. The igniter consists of black powder or Clean Burning Igniter (CBI). The igniter is very hygroscopic and subject to rapid deterioration on absorption of moisture. If kept dry, however, it retains its explosive properties indefinitely. The igniter for semi-fixed ammunition is an integral part of the primer. It consists of a perforated tube filled with black powder and is permanently mounted in the cartridge case. In separate loading ammunition, the igniter is in a circular red pancake shaped bag sewn to the base increment of the propellant. When ignited by the primer, the igniter sends hot flaming gases around the charge to ignite the propellant.

A propellant is a large amount of insensitive but powerful explosive that propels the projectile to the target. Semi-fixed ammunition propellant is generally issued with seven increments numbered 1 through 7, and connected by a thin acrylic cord. Each increment is a different size because each increment has a different premeasured amount of propellant. Increment 1 and 2 are single perforated and increments 3-7 are multi-perforated. Separate loading ammunition propellants are issued as a separate unit of issue in sealed canisters to protect the propellant. The amount of propellant to be fired with artillery ammunition is varied by the number of propellant increments. The charge selected is based on the range to the target and the tactical situation.

Projectile Design

Since the first projectile was manufactured, the demand for greater accuracy and greater range has influenced projectile design. Without specifically constructed shapes and exterior parts, there would be no standard ballistic characteristics for any group or type of projectiles. A lack of ballistic standardization would prevent the computation of firing tables. Modern projectiles are designed for maximum stability and minimum air resistance in flight.

Eyebolt Lifting Plugs and Fuze Well Plugs. A separate-loading projectile has an eyebolt lifting plug. Other types of projectiles have metal hex-head or plastic closing plugs. The plug is for lifting; to keep the fuze well clean, dry, and free of foreign matter; and to protect the fuze well threads. The plug is removed, and the appropriate fuze is inserted at the firing position. Some special-purpose semifixed projectiles are issued with the fuzes already assembled in the projectile.

Ogive. The ogive is the curved portion of a projectile between the fuze well and the bourrelet. It streamlines the forward portion of the projectile. The curve of the ogive usually is the arc of the circle, the center of which is located in a line perpendicular to the axis of the projectile and the radius of which is generally 6 to 11 calibers.

Bourrelet. The bourrelet is an accurately machined surface that is slightly larger than the body and located immediately to the rear of the ogive. It centers the forward part of the projectile in the tube and bears on the lands of the tube. When the projectile travels through the bore, only the bourrelet and the rotating band of the projectile bear on the lands of the tube.

Body. The body is the cylindrical portion of the projectile between the bourrelet and the rotating band. It is machined to a smaller diameter than the bourrelet to reduce the projectile surface in contact with the lands of the bore. The body contains most of the projectile filler.

Rotating Band. The rotating band is a cylindrical ring of comparatively soft metal that is pressed into a knurled, or roughened, groove near the base of the projectile. It mates with the forcing cone of the tube to eliminate gas wash (blow-by) and to provide forward obturation. The rotating band, in conjunction with the rifling of the tube, imparts spin to the moving projectile. A properly rammed separate-loading projectile is held in the tube at all angles of elevation by the wedging action of the rotating band against the forcing cone.

Obturating Band. On some projectiles, there is a nylon obturating band below the rotating band to help in forward obturation. Two examples of 155-mm projectiles with this type of a band are the illuminating round and the high-explosive rocket-assisted round.

Base. The base is that portion of the projectile below the rotating band or obturating band. The most common type is known as the boattail base. This type of base streamlines the base of the projectile, gives added stability in flight, and minimizes deceleration by reducing the vacuum-forming eddy currents in the wake of the projectile as it passes through the atmosphere.

Base Cover. The base cover is a metal cover that is crimped, caulked or welded to the base of the projectile. It prevents hot gases of the propelling charge from coming in contact with the explosive filler of the projectile through possible flaws in the metal of the base.

Large Caliber Ammunition - Types of Projectiles

Projectiles can be broadly classified according to three main types: spin-stabilized, fin-stabilized, and rocket assisted (both fin- and spin-stabilized). Formal military classification is based on the intended use of the projectile and the composition of the explosive charge (i.e., antipersonnel, antitank, and incendiary). Some very significant progress in projectile design has been made in the past few years.

SPIN-STABILIZED PROJECTILES Most guns in use today use spin-stabilized projectiles. Spinning a projectile promotes flight stability. Spinning is obtained by firing the projectiles through a rifled tube. The projectile engages the rifling by means of a rotating band normally made of copper. The rotating band is engaged by the lands and grooves. At a nominal muzzle velocity of 2800 feet per second, spin rates on the order of 250 revolutions per second are encountered. Spin-stabilized projectiles are full bore (flush with the bore walls) and are limited approximately to a 5:1 length-to-diameter ratio. They perform very well at relatively low trajectories (less than 45° quadrant elevation). In high trajectory applications they tend to overstabilize (maintain the angle at which they were fired) and, therefore, do not follow the trajectory satisfactorily.

FIN-STABILIZED PROJECTILES These projectiles obtain stability through the use of fins located at the aft end of the projectile. Normally, four to six fins are employed. Additional stability is obtained by imparting some spin (approximately 20 revolutions/second) to the projectile by canting the leading edge of the fins. Fin-stabilized projectiles are very often subcaliber. A sabot, wood or metal fitted around the projectile, is used to center the projectile in the bore and provide a gas seal. Such projectiles vary from 10:1 to 15:1 in length-to-diameter ratio. Fin-stabilized projectiles are advantageous because they follow the trajectory very well at high-launch angles, and they can be designed with very low drag thereby increasing range and/or terminal velocity. However, fin-stabilized projectiles are disadvantageous because the extra length of the projectile must be accommodated and the payload volume is comparatively low in relation to the projectile length.

ROCKET-ASSISTED PROJECTILES There are two main reasons for developing rocket-assisted projectiles: (1) to extend the range over standard gun systems, and (2) to allow for lighter mount and barrel design and reduce excessive muzzle flash and smoke by reducing the recoil and setback forces of standard gun systems. Since the ranges are different, the above two objectives represent opposite approaches in the development of rocket-assisted projectiles. Normally, one or the other establishes the performance of the rocket-assisted projectile under development although some compromise in the two approaches may be established by the design objectives.

Large Caliber Ammunition - Types of Warhead

For convenience of discussion, large caliber ammunition may be be classified into five major groups: blast (including air and underwater burst), fragmentation, shaped charge, pyrotechnics, and cluster.

Blast

A blast warhead is one that is designed to achieve target damage primarily from blast effect. When a high explosive detonates, it is converted almost instantly into a gas at very high pressure and temperature. Under the pressure of the gases thus generated, the weapon case expands and breaks into fragments. The air surrounding the casing is compressed and a shock (blast) wave is transmitted into it. Typical initial values for a high-explosive weapon are 200 kilobars of pressure (1 bar = 1 atmosphere) and 5,000 degrees celsius. The energetic materials used by Department of Defense munitions produce an exothermic reaction defined either as a deflagration or a detonation. A deflagration is an exothermic reaction that propagates from the burning gases to the unreacted material by conduction, convection, and radiation. In this process, the combustion zone progresses through the material at a rate that is less than the velocity of sound in the unreacted material.

In contrast, a detonation is an exothermic reaction that is characterized by the presence of a shock wave in the material that establishes and maintains the reaction. A distinctive difference is that the reaction zone propagates at a rate greater than sound velocity in the unreacted material. Every material capable of detonating has a characteristic velocity that is under fixed conditions of composition, temperature, and density.

The violent release of energy from a detonation in a gaseous medium gives a sudden pressure increase in that medium. The pressure disturbance, termed the blast wave, is characterized by an almost instantaneous rise from the ambient pressure to a peak incident pressure (Pso). This pressure increase, or shock front, travels radially from the burst point with a diminishing velocity that always is in excess of the sonic velocity of the medium. Gas molecules making up the front move at lower velocities. This latter particle velocity is associated with a "dynamic pressure," or the pressure formed by the winds produced by the shock front.

As the shock front expands into increasingly larger volumes of the medium, the peak incident pressure at the front decreases and the duration of the pressure increases. If the shock wave impinges on a rigid surface oriented at an angle to the direction of propagation of the wave, a reflected pressure is instantly developed on the surface and the pressure is raised to a value that exceeds the incident pressure. The reflected pressure is a function of the pressure in the incident wave and the angle formed between the rigid surface and the plane of the shock front.

When an explosion occurs within a structure, the peak pressure associated with the initial shock front will be extremely high and, in turn, will be amplified by reflections within the structure. In addition, the accumulation of gases from the explosion will exert additional pressures and increase the load duration within the structure. The combined effects of both pressures eventually may destroy the structure if it is not strengthened sufficiently or adequate venting for the gas and the shock pressure is not provided, or both. For structures that have one or more strengthened walls, venting for relief of excessive gas or shock pressures, or both, may be provided by means of openings in or frangible construction of the remaining walls or roof, or both. This type of construction will permit the blast wave from an internal explosion to spill over onto the exterior ground surface. These pressures, referred to as exterior or leakage pressures, once released from their confinement, expand radially and act on structures or persons, or both, on the other side of the barrier.

Conventional structures are designed to withstand roof snow loads of 30 pounds per square foot (1.44 kilopascals) and wind loads of 100 miles per hour (161 kilometers per hour). The loads equate to 0.2 pounds per square inch (psi). An important consideration in the analysis of explosions is the effect of the fragments generated by the explosion. These fragments are known as primary or secondary fragments depending on their origin. Primary fragments are formed as a result of the shattering of the casing of conventional munitions. These fragments usually are small in size and travel initially at velocities of the order of thousands of feet per second. Secondary fragments are formed as a result of high blast pressures on structural components and items in close proximity to the explosion. These fragments are somewhat larger in size than primary fragments and travel initially at velocities in the order of hundreds of feet per second. A hazardous fragment is one having an impact energy of 58 ft-lb (79 joules) or greater.

Fragmentation

The study of ballistics, the science of the motion of projectiles, has contributed significantly to the design of fragmentation warheads. Specifically, terminal ballistics studies attempt to determine the laws and conditions governing the velocity and distribution of fragments, the sizes and shapes that result from bursting different containers, and the damage aspects of the bursting charge fragmentation.

Approximately 30% of the energy released by the explosive detonation is used to fragment the case and impart kinetic energy to the fragments. The balance of available energy is used to create a shock front and blast effects. The fragments are propelled at high velocity, and after a short distance they overtake and pass through the shock wave. The rate at which the velocity of the shock front accompanying the blast decreases is generally much greater than the decrease in velocity of fragments, which occurs due to air friction. Therefore, the advance of the shock front lags behind that of the fragments. The radius of effective fragment damage, although target dependent, thus exceeds consid-erably the radius of effective blast damage in an air burst.

Whereas the effects of an idealized blast payload are attenuated by a factor roughly equal to 1/R3 (R is measured from the origin), the attenuation of idealized fragmentation effects will vary as 1/R2 and 1/R, depending upon the specific design of the payload. Herein lies the principle advantage of a fragment-ation payload: it can afford a greater miss distance and still remain effective because its attenuation is less.

Anti-personnel fragmentation munitions are designed to destroy or maim personnel or to damage material enough to render it inoperable. In the area of field artillery, the flechette or beehive round is an example of an anti-personnel warhead. The payload in this projectile consists of 8,000 steel-wire, fin-stabilized darts. Upon detonation the darts, or flechettes, are sprayed radially from the point of detonation, normally within sixty feet of the ground. It is extremely effective against personnel in the open or in dense foliage.

Shaped Charge

The discovery of what is variously referred to as the shaped charge effect, the hollow charge effect, the cavity effect, or the Munroe effect, dates back to the 1880s in this country. Dr. Charles Munroe, while working at the Naval Torpedo Station at Newport, Rhode Island, in the 1880s, discovered that if a block of guncotton with letters countersunk into its surface was det-onated with its lettered surface against a steel plate, the let-ters were indented into the surface of the steel. The essential features of this effect were also observed in about 1880 in both Germany and Norway, although no great use was made of it, and it was temporarily forgotten.

A shaped charge warhead consists basically of a hollow liner of metal material, usually copper or aluminum of conical, hemispherical, or other shape, backed on the convex side by explosive. A container, fuze, and detonating device are included.

When this warhead strikes a target, the fuze detonates the charge from the rear. A detonation wave sweeps forward and begins to collapse the metal cone liner at its apex. The collapse of the cone results in the formation and ejection of a continuous high-velocity molten jet of liner material. Velocity of the tip of the jet is on order of 8,500 meters per sec, while the trail-ing end of the jet has a velocity on the order of 1,500 meters per sec. This produces a velocity gradient that tends to stretch out or lengthen the jet. The jet is then followed by a slug that consists of about 80% of the liner mass. The slug has a velocity on the order of 600 meters per sec.

When the jet strikes a target of armor plate or mild steel, pressures in the range of hundreds of kilobars are produced at the point of contact. This pressure produces stresses far above the yield strength of steel, and the target material flows like a fluid out of the path of the jet. This phenomenon is called hydrodynamic penetration. There is so much radial momentum associated with the flow that the difference in diameter between the jet and the hole it produces depends on the characteristics of the target material. A larger diameter hole will be made in mild steel than in armor plate because the density and hardness of armor plate is greater. The depth of penetration into a very thick slab of mild steel will also be greater than that into homogeneous armor.

In general, the depth of penetration depends upon five factors:

Length of jet

Density of the target material

Hardness of target material

Density of the jet

Jet precision (straight vs. divergent)

The longer the jet, the greater the depth of penetration. Therefore, the greater the standoff distance (distance from target to base of cone) the better. This is true up to the point at which the jet particulates or breaks up (at 6 to 8 cone diameters from the cone base). Particulation is a result of the velocity gradient in the jet, which stretches it out until it breaks up. Jet precision refers to the straightness of the jet. If the jet is formed with some oscillation or wavy motion, then depth of penetration will be reduced. This is a function of the quality of the liner and the initial detonation location accuracy. The effectiveness of shaped charge warheads is reduced when they are caused to rotate. Spin-stabilized projectiles generally cannot use shaped-charge warheads.

Pyrotechnics

Pyrotechnics are typically employed for signaling, illuminating, or marking targets.

Illumination--These warheads usually contain a flare or magnesium flare candle as the payload, which is expelled by a small charge and is parachuted to the ground. During its descent the flare is kindled. The illuminating warhead is thus of great usefulness during night attacks in pointing out enemy fortifications. Because these flares are difficult to extinguish if accidentally ignited, extreme caution in their handling is required.

Smoke--These munitions are used primarily to screen troop movements and play a vital role in battlefield tactics. A black powder charge ignites and expels canisters that may be designed to emit white, yellow, red, green, or violet smoke.

Markers--White phosphorus is commonly employed as a pay-load to mark the position of the enemy. It can be very dangerous, especially in heavy concentrations. The material can self-ignite in air, cannot be extinguished by water, and will rekindle upon subsequent exposure to air. Body contact can produce serious burns. Copper sulphate prevents its re-ignition.

Cluster

Cluster munitions are canisters containing dozens or hundreds of small bomblets for use against a variety of targets, such as personnel, armored ve-hicles, or ships. Once in the air, the canisters open, spreading the bomblets out in a wide pattern. The advantage of this type of warhead is that it gives a wide area of coverage, which allows for a greater margin of error in delivery.

Flechettes

Flechettes are fin stabilized steel projectiles similar in appearance to arrows. During the Korean War the Chinese army tactic of human wave attacks against US lines of defence prompted interest in flechette projectiles in single and multiple projectile systems for small arms and antipersonnel (APERS) use. Flechettes have a performance criteria very different from the conventional rifle bullet. Typical modern flechettes are small light weight steel projectiles, and the velocity lost to air resistance is generally 375 fps. per 100 Meters of flight. Unlike rifle bullets, flechettes are not spin stabilized, but use fins to achieve level flight. The flechette's long body looses rigidity on target impact and bends into a hook, often breaking off the fin portion creating an additional wound. Flechette munitions include projectiles for use in the M16 rifle, CAWS (close assault weapons system), and 12 gage shotgun, as well as the 105mm M101A1/M102 howitzer, 2.75 in. FFAR (folding fin aircraft rocket), and the 70mm Hydra-70 FFAR.

Painting and marking

All projectiles are painted, both as a means of ready identification and as a rust preventative. The basic colors used for many years were olive drab (OD) for high-explosive rounds, gray for chemical rounds, blue for practice rounds, and black for drill rounds. A system of contrasting color markings or bands in addition to the basic color has also been used to identify the particular type of high explosive or chemical used as a filler. Color coding of recently produced projectiles is somewhat different. For example, illuminating and smoke rounds are no longer painted gray, the basic color for chemical shells. Illuminating rounds are now painted basically white or olive drab, and the smoke rounds are painted green. The basic color for dummy ammunition has been changed to bronze. Projectiles containing high explosive TNT Amatol, etc.) are painted yellow. Projectiles containing chemicals (gas or smoke) are painted blue-gray. Projectiles containing low explosives (black powder) are painted red. Projectiles are also stenciled to show the caliber, type of cannon used in, ammunition lot number, kind of filling, etc

Ripping Internet Sportbooks

2007-11-22T03:10:00.001-08:00

by jsenza

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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
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This text is for the addicted gambler that doesn't feel like losing all his/her money.

The purpose of this text is to be able to place bets for football, baseball, basketball or whatever sport people prefer to bet on, without the risk of losing money if the team loses. Whats needed:

1) Internet sportbook that time zone allows game to be played while western union at his location is closed. (explained later)

2) 24 hour Western Union in your location.

3)Some type of knowledge of whatever sport you are betting on.

4) Money, preferably the max that the sport book allows on the first bet. usually $1,000-$5,000.

Now if you can't even come up with a grand, don't bother reading on. There was always a saying that you need money to make it. The only reason this is being posted is that basically enough money was made to quit.

Most internet sportbooks are offshore and in another time zone. What you do is open an account (use fake name incase you do this more than once), get the toll free number. Then they will ask you to fund your account. You do this by credit card or you use a Western Union Money Transfer. You tell them or email them that you want to use Western Union. You get the instructions for the transfer, then you call or go on the W.U. site to find out what time their W.U. closes, ex. 11:00p.m.

Next you pick a game that is playing "AFTER" their W.U. is closed. You send the money transfer to them right before their W.U. closes, ex. 10:55p.m. Then you call the sport book and notify them that you sent the transfer and give them the control number. They will track the number and see that you did send money, so they "will" let you place your bet.

Now if your team wins, the next day, inform the sportbook that you would like your winnings along with your original bet. They'll send it because they do want you to continue to play with them in the future.

If your team loses, just notify western union that you want to cancel your transfer, a small fee will be incurred, go to the 24 hr W.U. in your area to pick your money up. Now since the W.U. at the sportbook location is closed, they can't pick up the money. when they do go to pick it up, they will see that you cancelled the transfer, just disregard any emails or just deny that you cancelled. Just go find another internet sportbook or reuse the same guy after a month or so under another name.

Get Free Drinks or Cash

2007-11-22T03:09:00.002-08:00

by Damifoo

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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
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When you're out at the shops next go to the front of the stores where they have the coke machines and stuff. Now pretend to put money in the machine. Usually i put 10 cents in or so. Now comes the fun part. Look all shit off and hit the buttons repeatedly. Storm up to the front counter and imply that the machine ate your money and didnt give you youre drink and wont refund your cash.

When the clerk asks how much you put in I usually say 2 dollars as that is the highest coin there is ;) Now usually they ask if you want your money back or a drink. Now make the decision and move to the next store ;)

Sometimes the clerk will put money in the machine and argue that his went thru. Most dont but even if they do they still give you what you want.

How to Get Free Netzero and Juno Access

2007-11-22T03:09:00.001-08:00

A new way to have free Netzero and Juno -- since they use the same software it's easier.

ok this is how it goes but there is a catch you have to do it everytime you log on ok this is how it goes ok when you log on to netzero press Alt+Ctrl+Delete and click on Zcast and press End Task then wait till another window that comes up that says End Task on it and press and End task when you press End Task it closes your internet connection but if you are not slow and quick you press Alt+Ctrl+Delete again after closing Zcast and End Task Chkras and there you go you have free netzero if you get this then something with juno you End Task My Juno and after that you End Task Adbanner its so easy and sorry about my crappy explantion this is the best i could to if you dont get it then i guess you dont have that many brain cells and if you do then good job you got the free internet freeloader.

Free Stuff At The Movies

2007-11-22T03:08:00.001-08:00

So you have a couple bucks and want to see a flick?

First buy a ticket for a movie you actually want to see. Go into the theater and find a cup on the floor that some slob left for you. Now go up to the concession stand, tell the kid you spilled your soda and the cup hit the the floor, so you need a new cup and soda. I have done this many times. 9 Times out of ten they gladly offer a refill. I have never gotten shit from any one when doing this the worst is they joke about it like say "how likely" and shit but still give you the soda. I have neve been refused w/ this one this also works for popcorn or whatever. If you can't find the trash, then buy one drink it "spill" it to get the refill.

So ya got the snacks and shit and ya saw your movie well why not stay for a double feture? No you dont have to pay! Just walk into the movie.I do this every time I go to see a movie and its not hard. Just do it!

Is that against the law?

For all under-age like myself, if you want to see a rated R film, bring a friend w/ id. If you have no friends go up to an adult and just ask dont give em the money till after(or never!) they buy your ticket or they might rip you off.

So after you had all of your fun and ready to go home why not get your money back?

Go up to the person who is selling the tickets. Tell em the movie sucks or there were old farts talking through the whole thing and get your money back a gift certifacite or a ticket to any movie.

Don't be an ass and do this shit every day at the same place if they have an IQ greater than that of a box of hair they'll find you out.If you ever get caught, bullshit 'em. I have done these and still do and they work its just a matter of having balls or not so try this stuff out and have fun and look for more of my files later!!

Scamming French Trains

2007-11-22T03:07:00.000-08:00

by Toni Truant

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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
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Hi if you plan to travel to europe next year,think about going to France enjoying the pleasure of laziness,getting drunk and easy sex(american accent is very sexy to french ears) don't worry about pating train no more. Just jump in the train let it start,then go BY YOURSELF talk to the controller,this way he'llthink you're honest say you lost your credit card or any kind of bullshit ,and ask them if please could they write you a ticket that you'll pay soon. Of course be nice make them feel you're really gonna pay etc etc etc.

It's necessary to show an I.D. and preferably an adress in France.What you can do is go to a police station,fill up a "declaration de perte" (declaration of loss)for your international driver's license(french cop don't bother registering U.S. lost license) tell cop you lost credit card by the way.On the declaration say your temporary adress is somewhere in France (fin some in the phone book.

If anybody ask what the fuck are you doing in this country tell them your gran-gran-dad lost his life in Normandy on june 6th 1944 and you're doing a pilgrimage for the sake of the old bastard rocking soul! French official should show at least compassion, if not the red carpet. Notice that TGV(fast train) run at 200 mph station are downtown and they're always fucking on time. Actually under 500 miles it's way better than plane.

Fight to Maim: Non-Lethal Hand to Hand Combat

2007-11-22T03:06:00.000-08:00

Fight to Maim: Non-Lethal Hand to Hand Combat
by A Voice in England

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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
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In real life you must expect your opponent to be stronger than you when you study combat.Your study should be how to over come their advantages.

HERE ARE A FEW NONLETHAL FIGHTING TECHNIQUES(most of these are Korean-boo hiss communists- i know)

1.Fold your thumb in and stiffen and straighten your fingers, with this spear hand(son sonkut tulgi)ram your opponent in the solar plexus, under the brest bone.This should cause the inability to move for about 5 minutes if done hard.

2.Make a "karate chop" (knife hand-sonkal taregi)and strike the adams apple , very lightly otherwise you will kill them, this causes your enemy to gag and choke.

3.Grab your attackers wrist, as they punch you, with both hands [suppose they hit with their left hand]twist left so you have your back 2 them and slam their arm (that is now straightened with wrist veins up) onto your shoulder, thus snapping the elbow joint.

4.Use an uppercutt elbow strike to the victims chin , this will knock them out.

5.Stamp the kneecaps and as you do punch the face , only a master will see them both comeing.

6.Use a backfist (ap joolmuck taerigi) to smash the nose causing tears and sickening.

7.When facing many attacks spin away so they glance off the back.

8.Aim kicks at the stomach and knees and punches to the solar plexus and face.

AND REMEMBER ALWAYS KEEP A GOOD GUARD - 1 ARM LIKE THIS _I INFRONT AND THE OTHER ARM ACROSS THE WAIST WHILE STANDING SIDE ON.

Easy Way to Cheat Parking Meters

2007-11-22T03:05:00.000-08:00

by Dali

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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
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If you live in any city or busy town, you probably get jacked quite often for an expired meter. In my city those parking enforcement bastards are writing you up seconds after the meter expires. And how about all the money in quarters you dish out? I bet if you added it all up you could feed a small country....those bastards are taking the food out of poor babies mouths!

Well, here is a handy way to never have to pay the parking meter and park scott-free for hours. You will get really good at this and you will never put another quarter in the meter again...(except of course when your mother is with you)

Let me first say that this does NOT work in the brand new meters that are digital. (I'm working on that)

1) park your car in front of the meter

2) while in your car, find a business card or a matchbook or any semi-thick paper. (if it's abusiness card

3)If you have a business card: tear 1 inch off of the end and 1/2 inch off of the bottom (you should have a rectangular piece of card measuring about 2-1/2 x 1-1/2 now) if you have a matchbook: open it up and tear off the cover ane half of the back (that should leave you with a 1-1/2" x 2-1/2" rectangle as well) Any piece of semi-thick paper can be torn into these dimentions. (the envelope from a parking ticket works well too!)

4) Fold the paper in half lenghth-wise and then fold it in half length-wise again. You will now have a pretty thick peice of card now measuring about 2-1/2 inches by 1/4 inch.

5) walk up to the meter (don't get nervous nobody pays any attention to someone putting change in their meter, silly) and insert the folded card into the quarter slot until the paper stops. It''s best that the card is thick and takes a little effort going into the slot. As soon as the card is about half-way in the slot, turn the crank on the meter all the way (this will take a little effort). Turning the crank will pull the card into the slot further. Turn the crank all the way until the yellow "violation" sign appears at the top and sticks. Do not try and turn the crank back in the other direction as this may kick up the red sign (ticket). The point is to jam the meter into it's "broken" position which is the yellow "voilation" sign. When the violation sign is up THEY CANNOT TICKET YOU. You can stay there indefinantely if they don't chalk you...If they chalk you (and this is VERY rare) you get about 2 hours (depending on the meter zone ie: 2 hour max etc.)

6) Tear off any ends of card that may still be protruding from the quarter slot. (if you're really socially concious you can leave it sticking out, then when you return you can pull out the entire card and the meter will be as good as new....but I wouldn't reccomend this as sometimes the metermaid will pull it out herself and then another one will come by later an give you a ticket)

7) test the crank and make sure it's jammed well...If you done it right the crank will be so jammed that you can't even turn it back)

8) go on your merry way and rejoice in the knowlege that you saved another dollar toward the starving children's fund.

Remember: when the yellow "violation" sign is up on the meter you are fine. This just means that the meter is broken and you have immunity from tickets when you're at a broken meter. After a while you will do this without even thinking about it. Remenber to keep plenty of cards or matches in your car.

Note: just in case the metermaids try to crack down on this meter-terrorism, don't have your goddam name on the cards or papers you're inserting into the meter.

Again, once you get the hang of it this system is flawless. And I really don't think the metermaids care that much either since they can easily pull the paper out when they open up the meter to collect the change.

-----

If you live in a big city that has a "Chinatown", then another great way to cheat the meter is to purchase a roll of chinese candy called "HAW FLAKES" at any chinese 5 and dime store.

Haw Flakes come in small rolls of twenty and cost about a nickel a roll. Haw Flakes WORK IN THE METERS AS QUARTERS (not the digital meters). You put in one Haw flake and GENTLY turn the crank. Sometimes they break, so just try again. They do work. Haw Flakes are mighty yummy too..but remember thier great value as money before you scarf all your quarters down. You Chinese folks out there no what the hell I'm talking about don't cha......

No worries though as the card jamming method above works very well.

Swimming Pool Lockers

2007-11-22T03:04:00.002-08:00

Swimming Pool Lockers
by om3ga

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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
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I don't know if U.S anarchists can relate to this as I live in England but hear me out nonetheless, even though i talk bollocks :)

In swmming pool changing rooms, there are normally loads of lockers, you know, the ones with the keys in. The customer has to put either a token or 50 pence or somthing. These used to be refundable, but some capitalist bastard thought it would be a good idea to charge the swimmers 50p every time they wanted to go in their locker. So a friend of mine told me this trick on how to get the key out every time without filling a narcs pocket with beer money.

Okay, here goes; the key should be upright when you approach the locker. [Using the "conventional method", putting in your token will allow you turn the key all the way round and be removed] But we don't wanna do that. What you do is turn the key as far anti-clockwise at it will go, then hit the key hard using the heel of your hand [hurts] or a shoe [well you aren't going swimming in your shoes are you?] and it should *click* - this should do the trick.

Another point about lockers, if you get a key and don't intend to use the locker, keep it. The management always have spares and if they see a locker that has been unopened for a few days, they will put in the spare as a replacement. This allows the holder of the original to access the chosen locker whenever someone else is using it.

Mailbox Info

2007-11-22T03:04:00.001-08:00

by Poetic Psycho

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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
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Ah the mailbox. Since the times of the Pony Express back in the 1800's, these nifty little things have been around. They were, and still are, devices for holding and storing postal mail. They come in various colors, shapes, sizes, and materials, but they all have 2 things in common

1: They all have a flag of some sort to alert the postal dude theres waiting mail inside

2: Someone, SOMEWHERE, at sometime, has thought of busting the holy living shit out of it!

Thats right bitch! You know that somewhere in your heart and soul, you've wanted to take a baseball bat, a tree limb, a stick, a rock, SOMETHING, and just beat the little fucker into tin foil! Well, as the intro states, I will explain the best ways to, and also why you shouldn't! (More on that later)

The "Pull'Em-Plenty" Method

One of the most obvious (and most hilarious) ways to destroy mailboxes is to obtain a truck (trucks vastly rule over cars for this) a chain, and about 3 Anarchy buds. After selecting the target, (and making sure its about 3:00 in the morning when the little shits inside have gone beddy bye), back as quietly up to the mailbox as possible. Hell, turn the truck off, put it in neutral, and have your friends push it up to the mailbox. In any case, hook the chain to the rear bumper of the truck and wrap the other end around the mailbox post. Wrap it securely now, shame to use up all that time and the fucker not even come out. Once its tied good and steady, you and your boys pile in the truck and stomp the gas! That motherfucker will (unless they cemented it) be jerked right out of the ground and you can drive off with the whole damn thing, mailbox AND the post used to hold it into the ground!

The "Plow'em-Plenty" Method

Like the above method, a truck works best. However in this case, a big metal bumper is a MUST. To perform this nifty ass trick, simply find a lonely deserted road with a lot of mailboxes in a line. Pick a starting target and then stomp the gas and plow over every fucking one of them! To REALLY make some noise, have the horn blowing the whole time. The crashing of the boxes and the horn is sure to wake up someone and then you'll have an audience! Be sure to give'em an encore..heh heh heh

The "Drive-By-Pulvarize'em-Plenty" Method

Another classic, yet more dangerous, way is the good ole' drive by method. Simply take a large blunt object (metal baseball bats are BEST!) and, having a trusted friend drive, make a run down a dark and lonely street at about 20 miles per, taking swings at every mailbox possible. The wooden ones with the dumbass tractors or cats on top are best, cause they shatter and make a hell of a mess

Now that I've explained some of the ways to bust up on some mailboxes, let me explain why you should NOT!

--True Story--

(To protect myself from incrimination, the details such as date and time and passangers are changed, but weapon of destruction and legal troubles are the same)

Late one July night at about 3:12, me and 2 of my friends (17 and 14) decided to go for a joyride. Nothing much, just riding around. Not much to do, its a boring old farm community so its not like anythings going on. Anyway, I got the brilliant idea that it would be fun to destroy a few mailboxes, just for fun you know? My neighboors metal baseball bat was already in the car, so we were set! We found us a lonely country road and took over, my friend driving along at about 30 m.p.h. while I held the bat. We'd come close to a mailbox...BAMM!! Bash the fucker, then roar off into the night to seek another target. After about the 6th house, we noticed a truck behind us. a car-truck chase ensues and since my little car is much faster and more maneuverable than that big ass clunker truck, we got away right?

WRONG! Dumbshits as we were, we forgot the faggot probably got our license. This was confirmed later when a sheriffs car pulled into the yard and promptly ordered the three of us to go with him to the station. Awaking my mom, she took the younger comrade while me and my 17 year old bud rode together in the cop car.

Now, for any of you that think busting a mailbox is no big deal, THINK AGAIN! Me and the 17 year old got a free night in jail for that shit and $3,000 bail. 6 mailboxes x $500.00 per offense. After a few months, our court date came around. I got First Offender Plea Bargain and the court settled on 12 months probation and an $875.00 fine plus restitution of all the mailboxes, which amounted to almost $300.00. The judge told me without the bargain, I could liekly be facing 6 years in a state prison.

6 YEARS!? You say? Bullshit! Not so bitch! The maximum penalty (I think) is 12 months in a state prison per offense, 6 offenses = 6 years. As I found out, Destruction of Mailboxes is a FEDERAL OFFENSE because the postal service is a Federal service and since the boxes hold Federal property (your mail, believe it or not) any damage to them is considered damage to the Federal Government. And trust me, from experience, the Gov. does NOT take destruction of these damn things lightly

Mutant Insects

2007-11-22T02:58:00.000-08:00

by Jason Tyler

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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
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To start with, make a large cage (20' by 20' by 8' ??) out of chicken-wire that could hold in locusts or perhaps grasshoppers, preferably over grass or something similar to their natural habitat. Then gather up a few dozen of the species and place them in the cage. Leave them alone for a few weeks (or more) to generate, breed, populate, have sex, or whatever you call it while you call around and get a list of all the common pesticides/insecticides (I'll refer to them as P/I) used in that area. Buy a gallon or so of each one, and a good spray bottle (or something to distribute the P/I).

When the insects have grown to a few hundred in population, spray the area (insect cage) with less than the recommended dosage on the P/I directions, or enough to kill about half of the insects (make sure the P/I is evenly distributed so every insect gets the same amount). Then let the insects regenerate to a few hundred or so, and repeat the process.

If you don't understand so far, the reason behind this is some of the insects were naturally more immune to the P/I to begin with than other insects. Exposing the insects to the P/I will only kill the insects that weren't very immune to P/I. This only leaves the insects with the "good" genes, and they will breed and (hopefully) have offspring with the same, or better, genes.

After this process is repeated about a dozen times (this might take from a couple months to half a year), let the insects into the wild and see what happens. If you're lucky, many farmers will start to lose their crops because the insects have built up an immunuty to their P/I and are rapidly spreading thier genes to wild insects. If all goes well, you'll have the whole county in panic and they won't know what hit them!

Picking Master Locks

2007-11-20T21:22:00.000-08:00

The locks that have the keyhole on the back and have a serial number of "Vxx" are uncrackable by the method used by d4ftv4dd3r, but are some of the easiest locks that you can possibly pick.

All that you need to pick these locks is a bobby pin and a flathead screwdriver approx. 3mm wide. To pick the lock put the screw driver in the vertical slot at the bottom of the lock, and put the bobby pin in the slot with the pins. Turn the screw driver so that the lock is turning clockwise and just sort of wiggle the bobby pin up and down to lock up the pins. If you do it right the lock should rotate 90 degrees and you should be able to open the lock.

A problem I ran into is that the lock would only turn if i had exactly the right sized screw driver. Make sure the flathead screwdrive you use is perfectly square, and does not start thin at the top and get wider.

If you want to learn how to correctly pick a lock i would advise you to go to http://www.lysator.liu.se/mit-guide/mit-guide.html . There is some reading involved but its the best site i can find.

If these locks are used in your school than the same key is used to open them all, so if you can pick one, you can pick them all

A Weakness in Cheap Imitation Combinations Locks

2007-11-20T21:21:00.000-08:00

by B|u

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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
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My definition of a cheap lock is a lock that is not a master lock. Usually the easiest way to tell if the lock is cheap is when the dial on the lock is a different color than black, such as blue or red or yellow. You can also tell if it's a shitty lock when you turn the dial and it doesn't rotate smoothly.

Now here is the easy part. All you need to do is remove one of your socks from your feet or bring one from home. Small towels also work and might be better because they are a little bit stronger.

Then slip the towel/sock between the horseshoe of the lock (the U shaped bent metal holding the lock to the locker) after you slip it through evenly, grab each end of the sock with you hands so you left hand is on one end of the sock and your right hand on the other.

This part requires alot of speed. As hard as you can, snap down and tug in a quick downward motion. The lock may not budge the first time, but keep tugging fast and hard and the horseshoe will come detached from the rest of the lock.

Remember it does not work on MASTER brand locks but most other cheap imitations with the turn-dial interface.

Solving Pre-1996 Master Locks

2007-11-20T21:19:00.000-08:00

NOTE!!: If you have a patience/learning problem, jump down to "For the impatient" below. My apologies for this long and dry article.

Regarding picking Master locks in your article, :

http://www.totse.com/en/bad_ideas/locks_and_security/piklock.html

Masterlocks will not be able to be opened using the technique described with the hairpin, due to the way the the lock is constructed. They use 3 pretty heavy duty metal disks with slots in them to hold the locking mechanism in place, so unless the hairpin is strong enough to twist the metal of 2-3 disks, it won't open. However, there is a flaw to their construction.

It is possible to determine the 3rd number on any master lock built before 1996 or so to a very high degree of precision and short amount of time. First of all, a bit of theory. They way a master lock works, is when you turn the dial, you are directly turning the disk of the 3rd number of the combination. The 3rd disk in turn turns the second, and the second turns the first. That's why you have to fully rotate the dial 2 or 3 times in the clockwise direction before going to the first number, so as to make sure that the first disk is being turned. Each disk has a little nub that protrudes from it's face, the second disk having one on each face so it is able to touch both the first and third nubs. So when you turn the dial, you are turning the 3rd disk, then the nub of the 3rd disk collides with that of the second and turns the second, and then the nub on the second collides with the first and turns the first. By the way, each disk has a deep slot in it. When you enter the correct combination, in effect, you are aligning the 3 slots of the disks in the correct position. The locking mechanism can now rotate and slide into the slots of the disks, freeing the latch.

To prevent people from simply pulling on the latch and rotating the dial to feel where the slot is on the third disk, the kind people at Master installed a 4th dummy disk, with "random" notches in it. That is why when you pull on the latch of a master lock, you find that it only turns a few degrees, and then stops, with seemingly random stops every few degrees. However, with any lock built before 1996 or so (not sure of exact date), not all dummy slots are equal, and the third number is still very findable.

F O R T H E I M P A T I E N T

If you have a lock to experiment with, you will find that for every dummy slot, there is a matching dummy slot every interval of 10. For instance, if you pull on the latch and turn the dial and finds that it stops on the number "12", indeed you will find that it stops also at "22", "32" and "2". If you find another at "6", you will see that it stops also on 16, 26, and 36. So bloody what you say? Here is the deadly trick. Say for instance you find the dial stops on "3", and you jiggle the dial a little bit and find that the red arrow, with a modest amount of jiggling, can point to either side of the 3 tick. Now you test 13, and see that, jiggling it, it is the same, that the red arrow is directly centered on the 13 and you can manipulate it to point on either side of the tick. But, when you test 23, you find that the tick is to the left of the 23 tick, that with a good amount of jiggling, it is directly in the middle of 22 and 23 and can point to either.You have found the 3rd number. It is 23. To verify, you test 33, and find that it is like 13 and 3.

What may also happen is this: You find that 3, 13, and 33, instead of being directly pointed by the red arrow, are all off centered to the left a little bit, but 23 is pointed by the arrow straight on. Again, 23 is your 3rd number. It is the deviant one that is the 3rd. With newer master locks, the notches are all identical, as far as I can tell.

"Now what about the first and second numbers you bloody prick?", you say. "There's still a bajillion and a half possible combinations!!!!@!". Worry not. The people of Master were kind to the likes of us, and were lazy. Let me jump straight to it.

Let x represent the first number, y the second, and z the third, which is known. let the symbol "%" represent "modulus", which yields the remainder of a division. So for instance, 7 % 3 = 1, because the remainder of 7/3 is 1. Let this then, be known:

z % 4 = x % 4

z % 4 = (y % 4) + 2

In other words, if z is 15, than x may be 3, 7, 11, 15, 19, 23, 27, 31, etc. And y may be 1, 5, 9, 13, 17, 21, etc.

(Note: the above equation still holds true for post-1996 master locks. It's just that it's harder to find the 3rd number...)

Now, that narrowed down the combination by quite a bit. With this knowledge, anyone can open an old master lock within 20 minutes or so, with some concentration. But with proper technique, a masterlock may be broken in 7 minutes or less, depending on the combo.

Remember all that jazz about the rotating disks and all that useless information? Here's where it becomes useful. Here is a sample of how, if one forgets his masterlock combo, one would find it again.

FOR THE REEEALLLYYYY IMPATIENT

1. The 'user' finds that the third number is 17

2. The 'user' turns the dial clockwise several rotations, until he is moving all three disks. (you can actually feel when the second disk begins rotating, and the first)

3. The user continues turning clockwise and stops on the number 1, his first guess for the first number.

4. The user then begins turning the dial counter-clockwise slowly, until he feels the third disk (for he is directly turning the third disk) collide with the second disk. (Which should happen around 0 or 39, in this case)

5. The user rotates the second disk to the 3 position, his/her first guess for the second number.

6. The user then rotates the dial (and the third disk) to the predetermined 3rd number, 13.

7. The user pulls on the latch. Assuming it does not open, for that would prove to be boring, the user continues as such:

8. The user SLOWLY, rotates the dial counterclock wise until he/she feels the second dial, at the number 3 where he/she left it.

9. The user rotates counterclockwise from 3 to 7.

10. The user then rotates clockwise back to 13.

11. User pulls latch.

12. user rotates counterclockwise till the user hits the second dial at 7, and pushes it to 11.

13. user rotates clockwise back to 13.

14. user pulls latch.

As you now notice, we are saving lots, and lots of time by never touching the first disk, and moving the second disk in strategic amounts. (intervals of 4) After you have finished every combo for you first guess at the first number, rotate clockwise several times to reset the disks, and begin on your next guess for the first number, which is probably 5. This method is also very economical because absolutely no damage is done to the lock, and you can safely retrieve the working combo in the least amount of time.

If ever any of you have the time, try hacksawing one open. A vise is very helpful, but the metal armor of the lock is not too tough to get through. Just go in a big circle and hacksaw the face off. Use an old screwdriver to pry the dial off.

Impact of Artificial "Gummy" Fingers on Fingerprint Systems

2007-11-20T21:17:00.000-08:00

Impact of Artificial "Gummy" Fingers on Fingerprint Systems

Tsutomu Matsumoto
Hiroyuki Matsumoto
Koji Yamada
Satoshi Hoshino

Graduate School of Environment and Information Sciences
Yokohama National University
79-7 Tokiwadai, Hodogaya, Yokohama 240-8501, Japan

ABSTRACT

Potential threats caused by something like real fingers, which are called fake or artificial fingers, should be crucial for authentication based on fingerprint systems. Security evaluation against attacks using such artificial fingers has been rarely disclosed. Only in patent literature, measures, such as "live and well" detection, against fake fingers have been proposed. However, the providers of fingerprint systems usually do not mention whether or not these measures are actually implmented in emerging fingerprint systems for PCs or smart cards or portable terminals, which are expected to enhance the grade of personal authentication necessary for digital transactions. As researchers who are pursuing secure systems, we would like to discuss attacks using artificial fingers and conduct experimental research to clarify the reality. This paper reports that gummy fingers, namely artificial fingers that are easily made of cheap and readily available gelatin, were accepted by extremely high rates by particular fingerprint devices with optical or capacitive sensors. We have used the molds, which we made by pressing our live fingers against them or by processing fingerprint images from prints on glass surfaces, etc. We describe how to make the molds, and then show that the gummy fingers, which are made with these molds, can fool the fingerprint devices.

Keywords: biometrics, fingerprint, live and well detection, artificial finger, fingerprint image.

1. INTRODUCTION

Biometrics is utilized in individual authentication techniques which identify individuals, i.e., living bodies by checking physiological or behavioral characteristics, such as fingerprints, voice, dynamic signatures, etc. Biometric systems are said to be convenient because they need neither something to memorize such as passwords or something to carry about such as ID cards. In spite of that, a user of biometric systems would get into a dangerous situation when her/his biometric data are abused. That is to say, the user cannot frequently replace or change her/his biometric data to prevent the abuse because of limits of biometric data intrinsic to her/himself. Therefore, biometric systems must protect the electronic information for biometrics against abuse, and also prevent fake biometrics.

We have focused on fingerprint systems since they have become widespread as authentication terminals for PCs or smart cards or portable terminals. Some of fingerprint systems may positively utilize artificial fingers as substitutes in order to solve the problem that a legitimate user cannot access, for example, when s/he gets injured on her/his fingertip in an accident.12 Some other cases include dry fingers, worn fingers, and other fingers with a low-quality fingerprint. However, the users of those systems would run a risk because artificial fingers can be stolen and used by other persons if the systems are utilized for a security application. Except for the above-mentioned cases, fingerprint systems generally must reject artificial fingers. In order to reject them, fingerprint systems should take measures to examine some other features intrinsic to live fingers than those of fingerprints. These measures are called "live and well detection 9, 15, 20, 23, 26"and have been proposed mainly in patent literature.13 Although a number of fingerprint systems have come into wide use, it is not clear whether or not these measures are actually implemented in commercial fingerprint systems. Moreover, as far as we know, security evaluation against attacks using fake fingers has been rarely disclosed. In connection, some researchers reported, in 1998, that four of the six fingerprint systems with optical devices accepted silicone fingers.19 After that, some measures against silicone fingers may have been taken in fingerprint systems. But, someone might object that fingerprint systems with capacitive devices can prevent fake fingers, so they are secure.

Previous to our experiments described in this paper, we made silicone fingers, and then checked fingerprint systems with them. From the results, we ascertained that all the systems with a capacitive sensor and some systems with an optical sensor could reject the silicone fingers. Also, we confirmed that an inked fingerprint on a paper could be accepted by one of fingerprint systems. A series of our preliminary experiments brought up a question whether or not "live and well" functions are actually implemented in commercial fingerprint systems. Finally, we have carried out experiments with artificial fingers to inquire into the fact.9,16,27-29 In this paper we discuss security evaluation of fingerprint systems, especially for its resistance against artificial fingers. Here, the term "fake fingers" may be widely used to refer fingers which are used to deceive fingerprint systems. However, we use the term "artificial fingers" to refer fingers which are artificially produced because "fake fingers" may include fingers which are modified from live fingers. In addition, we use the term "live fingers" to mean fingers which are part of living bodies.

2. FINGERPRINT SYSTEMS

2.1 Fingerprint Systems

The principle of fingerprint systems is schematically illustrated in Fig. 2.1. In an enrollment process, the system captures finger data from an enrollee with sensing devices, extracts features from the finger data, and then record them as template with a personal information, e.g. a personal identification number (PIN), of the enrollee into a database. We are using the word "finger data" to mean not only features of the fingerprint but also other features of the finger, such as "live and well" features. In an identification (or verification) process, the system captures finger data from a finger with sensing devices, extracts features, identifies (or verifies) the features by comparing with templates in the database, and then outputs a result as "Acceptance" only when the features correspond to one of the templates.

Most of fingerprint systems utilize optical or capacitive sensors for capturing fingerprints.3, 10, 14, 22 These sensors detect difference between ridges and valleys of fingerprints. Optical sensors detect difference in reflection. Capacitive sensors, by contrast, detect difference in capacitance. Some systems utilize other types of sensors, such as thermal sensors, ultrasound sensors.6, 15, 24 In this paper we examine fingerprint systems which utilize optical or capacitive sensors.

2.2 A Risk Analysis for Fingerprint Systems

Generally, fingerprint systems capture images of fingerprints, extract features from the images, encrypt the features, transmit them on communication lines, and then store them as templates into their database. Some systems encrypt templates with a secure cryptographic scheme and manage not whole original images but compressed images. Therefore, it is said to be difficult to reproduce valid fingerprints by using the templates. Some systems are secured against a so-called replay attack in which an attacker copies a data stream from a fingerprint scanner to a server and later replays it, with an one time protocol or a random challenge response device. We are here not concerned with the security for the communication and database of fingerprint systems, assuming that they are secure enough by being protected with some encryption schemes. In this section, we would like to address security of fingerprint scanners.

When a legitimate user has registered her/his live finger with a fingerprint system, there would be several ways to deceive the system. In order to deceive the fingerprint system, an attacker may present the following things to its fingerprint scanner.

(1) The registered finger: The highest risk is being forced to press the live finger against the scanner by an armed criminal, or under duress. Another risk is being compelled the legitimate user to fall asleep with a sleeping drug, in order to make free use of her/his live finger. There are some deterrent techniques against these crimes. Combination with another authentication method, such as by PINs, passwords, or ID cards, would be helpful to deter the crimes.20 Furthermore, a duress control enables the users to alarm "as under duress" with a secret code or manner, which is different with a PIN or usual manner respectively. Combining a duress control with a fingerprint system would provide a helpful measure to apply to someone for protection. Similarly, a two persons control, namely a two persons rule, where the authentication process requires two persons properties, i.e., fingerprints, or would be helpful to deter the crimes.

(2) An unregistered finger (an imposter's finger): An attack against authentication systems by an imposter with his own biometrics is referred to as non-effort forgery.26 Commonly, accuracy of authentication of fingerprint systems are evaluated by the false rejection rate (FRR) and the false acceptance rate (FAR).1, 2 The FAR is important indicator for the security against such a method as with an unregistered finger. Moreover, fingerprints are usually categorized as "loops," "whorls," "arches," and others. If an attacker knows what category of the registered finger is, an unregistered finger of which pattern is similar to the registered one would be presented to the scanner. In this case, the probability of the acceptance may be different from the ordinary FAR. From this point of view, the accuracy of authentication for the system should be evaluated not only, as usual, for fingers throughout the categories of fingerprints but also for fingers within each category. Another attacker may modify his fingerprint by painting, cutting, or injuring his own fingertip. However, it is thought to be very difficult to deceive the fingerprint system with such a modified finger. The reason for this is that fingerprints are so random the attacker cannot identify which patterns should be modified. Ordinarily, ten-odd features, such as ridge's and valley's distinctive patterns are used for the authentication.

(3) A severed fingertip from the registered finger: A horrible attack may be performed with the finger which is severed from the legitimate user's hand. Even if the finger severed from the user's half-decomposed corpse, the attacker may use, for the wrong purpose, a scientific crime detection technique to clarify its fingerprint.6 In the same way as the above-mentioned registered finger, combination with another authentication method, or a duress/two-persons control would be helpful to deter these crimes. The detection whether the finger is alive or not would be helpful as well.

(4) A genetic clone of the registered finger: In general, it is said that identical twins do not have the same fingerprint, and neither would clones. The reason is that fingerprints are not entirely genetically determined, and rather determined in part by its pattern of nerve growth into the skin. As a result, this is not exactly the same even in identical twins. However, it is also said that fingerprints are different in identical twins, but only slightly different. If the genetic clone's fingerprint is similar to the registered finger's, an attacker may try to deceive fingerprint systems by using it. Now is the time when we must keep a close watch on such possibility with genetic engineering,

(5) An artificial clone of the registered finger: More casual attacks against fingerprint systems may use an artificial finger. An artificial finger can be produced as a printed fingerprint with a copier or a desk top publishing (DTP) technique as well as forged documents. If an attacker can make a mold of the registered finger directly modeling it, s/he can produce an artificial finger with some materials. Even if not, s/he may make a mold of the registered finger modeling its residual fingerprint at second hand, so as to produce an artificial finger. And, if an attacker can make an artificial finger which can deceive a fingerprint system, one of countermeasures against the attack obviously is the detection whether or not the finger is alive. Again, combination with another authentication method, or two-persons control would be also helpful to deter the crimes.

(6) The others: In some fingerprint systems, an error in authentication may be caused by making noise or flashing a light against the fingerprint scanner, or by heating up, cooling down, humidifying, impacting on, or vibrating the scanner outside its environmental tolerances. Some attackers may use the error to deceive the system. This method is well-known as a "fault based attack," and may be carried out with above-mentioned attacks. Furthermore, a fingerprint image may be stood out in strong relief against the scanner surface, if we spray some materials on the surface. The image would be the residual fingerprint of a registered finger. In this case, a bald thing or finger, regardless of alive or not, which are pressed on the surface, may be accepted by the fingerprint system.

As fingerprint systems come into wide use, they are still more exposed themselves to a risk of casual attacks. Apart from duress or other crimes, our great concern, in this paper, is the possibilities of attacks with artificial fingers.

2.3 Dishonest Acts with Artificial Fingers

In this section, on the assumption that artificial fingers can be accepted by fingerprint systems, we discuss dishonest acts against the system with the artificial fingers. Several patterns of dishonest acts, with artificial fingers, in a fingerprint system are shown in Table 2.1. In this table, L(X) and L(Y) denote live fingers of persons X and Y respectively. A(X) and A(Y) denote artificial fingers which are molded after L(X) and L(Y) respectively. A(Z) denotes artificial fingers which are created artificially without being molded after live fingers. There may be at the total of 25 possible combinations because we can enroll and verify each of L(X), L(Y), A(X), A(Y) and A(Z) in the system. However, we show 15 in 25 combinations and focus on 5 combinations, from (1) to (5), in the table on the following assumptions;

Table 2.1 Several patterns of dishonest acts with artifical fingers in a fingerprint system

Verification / Identification Enrollment L(X) A(X) L(Y) A(Y) A(Z) L(X) (1) (2) - * - - A(Y) - - (3) (4) - A(Z) - - - - (5)

Only X can enroll fingers in the system, but X cannot enroll Y's live finger L(Y), the fingers must be enrolled with a genuine X's PIN, and X can obtain and enroll A(Y) and A(Z) in the system. The case (1) is the proper way in the system. The case (2) or (5) is also the proper way in some systems which positively utilize artificial fingers. However, we discuss dishonest acts of artificial fingers regarding the cases from (2) to (5) as dishonest ways. The possible dishonest acts are:

Some other persons than X can pretend, in the system, to be X by presenting artificial fingers in all the cases of (2), (4) and (5), and Y can pretend, in the system, to be X by presenting her/his own fingers L(Y) in the case (3).

In addition, X can deny the participation showing by means of evidence that her/his own live fingers cannot be accepted by the system, when the dishonest act was detected in the cases (3), (4) and (5).

Most discussion on dishonest acts with artificial fingers have mainly focused on the case (2). However, it should be noted that the dishonest acts, which correspond to the cases (4) and (5), can be done if artificial fingers are accepted by the system. The cases (3), (4) and (5) can be probably prevented by a practical measure that enrollment is closely watched to prevent using artificial fingers. Moreover, dishonest acts which correspond to the cases, from (2) to (5), never occur if the system can successfully reject artificial fingers.

Accuracy of authentication of fingerprint systems are commonly evaluated by the false rejection rate (FRR) and the false acceptance rate (FAR).1, 2 In Table 2.1, the case (1) and the case indicated by the sign '*' correspond to those which are commonly evaluated by the FRR and FAR in its ordinary performance test for live finger samples, respectively. It is important that the acceptance rate for the cases from (2) to (5) should be evaluated if the system cannot perfectly reject artificial fingers.

3. EXPERIMENTS

3.1 How to make Artificial Fingers

There are several major ways to make an artificial finger of a given live finger, as shown in Fig. 3.1. First of all, an impression must be obtained from the live finger. The fingerprint image of the impression is mostly the lateral reversal, i.e., transposed with the others. The captured image of the gummy finger in Fig. 4.2 is very similar to that of the live fingerprint images of a live finger and a gummy finger, which were displayed by the system with Device H (equipped with a capacitive sensor), are shown in Fig. 4.3. While some defects are observed in the image (right side) of a gummy finger, both of the images are similar to each other. Here, the reason why we do not present the image of a silicone finger is that it lannot be accepted by the system with Device H.

[2 pages missing. See: http://www.itu.int/itudoc/itu-t/workshop/security/present/s5p4.pdf]

How to make an Artifical Finger

Materials:

Bag of Free Molding Plastic 35g and Gelatin Sheet 30g

To make the mold:

Put Free Molding Plastic in Water to soften and form into small ball

Press Live Finger into Plastic ball

Wait Ten minutes

This creates a mold of the live finger

To Make the Finger:

Add 30cc's of boiling water to 30g's of Gelatin and stir in a glass jar, takes about 20 minutes

Pour Gelatin into plastic finger mold

Put it in a refrigerator to cool for about 10 minutes

Presto: The Gummy Finger

4.1.2 Acceptance Rates of the Artificial Fingers

The results of the experiments for the artificial fingers, which were cloned with molds, are shown in Fig 4.4. It was found through the experiments that we could enroll the gummy fingers in all of the 11 types of fingerprint systems. It was also found that all of the fingerprint systems accepted the gummy fingers in their verification procedures with the probability of 68-100%.

4.2 Cloning from a Residual Fingerprint

4.2.1 Artificial Fingers

Figure 4.5 (a) shows the outside appearance of the mold which we used in our experiments. Figure 4.5 (b) shows a photograph of the gummy finger which was produced from a residual fingerprint on a glass plate, enhancing it with a cyanoacrylate adhesive. We applied a technique for processing printed circuit boards to the production of the molds for cloning the gummy fingers. The fingerprint image of the gummy finger, which was displayed by the system with Device H (equipped with a capacitive sensor), is shown in Fig. 4.6.

4.2.2. Acceptance Rates of the Artificial Fingers

The results of the experiments for an artificial finger, which was cloned from a residual fingerprint, are shown in Fig. 4.7. As a result, we could enroll the gummy finger in all of the 11 types of fingerprint systems. It was found that all of the fingerprint systems accepted the gummy finger in their verification procedures with the probability of more than 67%.

4.3 Discussions

The number of samples in the experiments is so small that we cannot compare performance of the fingerprint systems. However, the number of samples is enough for us to see evidence that the gummy fingers could be accepted by commercial fingerprint systems. Based on our analysis, these variations may be caused by deformation of gummy fingers. We found that some of artificial fingers were damaged while being heated by the fingerprint sensors in the experiments. Some of the sensors frequently heated up when repeating verification in a short period. We think that the number of acceptance will increase if we pause for cooling every time after verification. We mentioned, in section 3.2, that the gummy fingers can be modified their shape to fit the scanning area. Accordingly, we cut the gummy fingers to fit the sensing area for some devices. This might cause decrease of errors in positioning the gummy fingers. Another reason why the number of acceptance varies is that we allowed retrying in enrollment. Finally, all of gummy fingers could be enrolled in the end in our experiments, even if the systems employ some protection. Also, the number of acceptance of live fingers is greater than that of gummy fingers for some systems that may employ so-called live and well detection.

We have investigated the difference in characteristics of live, gummy and silicone fingers. While silicone fingers were impossible to measure, the moisture and electric resistance of the gummy fingers could be measured as shown in Table 4.1. We used a moisture meter, and a digital multimeter (range: from 0 to 40 Mohms). According to this comparison, gummy fingers are more similar to live fingers in their characteristics than silicone fingers. The compliance was also examined for live and gummy fingers as shown in Fig. 4.8. Here, the compliance indicated by the change in resonance frequency (i.e., tactile sensor output) as the function of the pressure (i.e., pressure sensor output). In brief, Fig. 4.8 shows that the live finger is softer than the gummy finger. We found that these fingers are clearly different in compliance.8

If "live and well" detectors can clearly distinguish their moisture, electric resistance, transparency or bubble content (i.e., bubble rich material or not) between live fingers and gummy fingers, fingerprint systems can reject gummy fingers. Also, detection of compliance would be helpful for preventing gummy fingers. Furthermore, some of measures which have been proposed in patent literature may be useful in preventing gummy fingers.

5. CONCLUSIONS

In this paper, we illustrated a risk analysis for fingerprint systems. The risk analysis revealed that there are many attack ways to deceive the systems, even if their templates and communication are protected by a secure measure. Conventional arguments tend to focus on a question how to detect use of artificial fingers, which derive from live fingers of legitimate users. However, as we pointed out, there can be various dishonest acts using artificial fingers against the systems. We also pointed out that artificial fingers can be made not only of silicone but also of gelatin, and examined 11 types of fingerprint systems whether or not they accept the gummy fingers. Consequently, all of these systems accepted the gummy fingers all in their enrollment procedures and also with the rather higher probability in theirverification procedures. The results are enough for us to see evidence that artificial fingers can be accepted by commercial fingerprint systems. The objection will no doubt be raised that it is very difficult to take an impression of the live finger from a legitimate user without the cooperation of her/him. Therefore, we demonstrated that the gummy fingers made from residual fingerprints can be accepted by all of the 11 systems.

After we started this study, we come to know by the published book, that Dutch researchers reported that an artificial finger, which was made of silicone rubber, putting saliva on its surface can be accepted by fingerprint systems with capacitive devices. Their study and ours share certain similarities in that both intend to encourage the suppliers and users of fingerprint systems to reconsider security of their systems. While their study is seen to be of use in designing fingerprint systems, unfortunately, details of the experimental conditions have not been described.

As we mentioned, a user of biometric systems cannot frequently replace or change her/his biometric data because of limits of biometric data intrinsic to her/himself. For example, gelatin, i.e., an ingredient of gummies, and soft plastic materials are easy to obtain at grocery stores and hobby shops, respectively. The fact that gummy fingers, which are easy to make with cheap, easily obtainable tools and materials, can be accepted suggests review not only of fingerprint systems but also of biometric systems. Manufacturers and vendors of biometric systems should carefully examine the security of their systems against artificial clones. Also, they should make public results of their examination, which lead users of their system to a deeper understanding of the security. The experimental study on the gummy fingers will have considerable impact on security assessment of fingerprint systems.

Declaration: We would like to stress that this study intends to encourage the suppliers and users of fingerprint systems to reconsider security of their systems, not to criticize libelously fingerprint systems for their security, and not to compare their performance.17 For this purpose, we have collected, for our experiments, as many fingerprint systems commercially vailable as we could, and have detailed their specification and the experimental conditions.

ACKNOWLEDGMENT

The authors thank Yuldko Endo for her assistance in the experiments. This research was partially supported by MEXT Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research 13224040 (Tsutomu Matsu

REFERENCES

1. AfB and ICSA: 1998 Glossary of Biometric Terms, Association for Biometrics and International Computer Security Association, to be referred at URL: http://www.afb.org.uk/ (1998).

2. ANSI A9.84-2001, Biometrics Information Management and Security (2001).

3. Bahuguna, R.D. and Corboline, T.: Prism fingerprint sensor that uses a holographic optical element, APPLIED OPTICS, Vol. 35, No. 26 (1996).

4. Bicz, W. et al.: Fingerprint structure imaging based on an ultrasound camera, http://www.optel.com.pl/article/english/article.htm, July 1 (2000).

5. Bovelander, E. and van Renesse, R. L.: An Introduction to Biometrics, in Chip Card: Trump Card? Consequences for investigation and prosecution 2nd Edition, Knopjs, F. and Lakeman, P. J. eds., Politie, Amsterdam (1999).

6. Collins, C. G.: Problems and Practices in Fingerprinting the Dead, FINGERPRINT SCIENCE: How to Roll, Classify, File and Use Fingerprints, Copperhouse Bublishing Company, ISBN 0-942728-18-1, Chapter 11, pp. 131-165:(1998).

7. ECOM: Report by the Working Group on PersonalAuthentication (WG6) Ver. 1.0, Electronic Commerce Promotion of Japan (ECOM), April 27 (1998).

[2 pages missing.]

How to make a mold

We make molds, which are made by photolithographic processes, of live fingers, and then make artificial fingers, which are made of gelatin, with the molds.

We make molds by the following procedures.

Making a mask

(1) Press the live finger against a glass plate so as to make its residual fingerprint.

(2) Enhance this latent fingerprint with a cyanoacrylate adhesive. If you put the adhesive with the glass plate intolairtight container, it will keep for quite a long time. Wait for a minute. The fingerprint will stand clearly outlined against the glass plate.

(3) Capture an image of the fingerprint with a digital microscopic camera (e.g., KEYENCE; VH-6300, 900k pixels). Set the fingerprint image right side left, and make its contrast better with an image processing software (e.g., Adobe; Photoshop 6.0).

(4) Print the fingerprint image in a transparency sheet with an inkjet printer (e.g., Canon; BJ-F800, 1200x600dpi). It can be used for a mask.

Making a mold

(1) Prepare a photo sensitive coated PCB, and fix the mask so that its printed surface is attached on the PCB. Exose an UV light source for 6 minutes to copy the mask to the photo resist layer of the PCB. Caution: The UV light are harmful for your eyes and you shouldn't look it many time, or any at all.

(2) Develop the PCB to remove all the unnecessary photo resist, and expose the unnecessary copper.

(3) Etch the developed PCB to remove all the unnecessary copper, and get only the fingerprint. Finally, the mold for artificial fingers can be obtained.

Making an artiflicial finger

We make artificial fingers by the following procedures.

(1) Add boiling water (30cc) to solid gelatin (24 grams) in a bottle and mix up them. Cap the bottle and wait till mixture forms a gel as it cools, and then melt to form a sol by heating with a microwave oven. After that, cool down to form a gel and heat up to form a sol several times to reduce bubbles, if necessary. As a result of this procedure, a liquid in which immersed gelatin at around 40 wt.% (a sol) will be obtained.

(2) Prepare a mold, and drip the liquid onto the mold. Remove carefully bubbles which are formed around the base of the mold, if necessary.

(3) Put this mold into a refrigerator to cool, and wait for about ten minutes till the liquid changes back to a gel. Peel carefully the gel (i.e., artificial finger) from the mold.

Repeat (2) and (3) to make the gummy fingers.

APPENDIX B

B. Fingerprint Systems

The list of fingerprint devices and the procedures for the fingerprint systems are shown in APPENDIX B.1, and B.2, respectively.

(Omitted)

Note 1: DFRTM is a registered trademark of Compaq Computer Corporation. Windows TM is a registered trademark of Microsoft Corporation. FingerTIP TM is a registered trademark of Siemens AG (Infineon Technlogies AG). U.ar.UTM is a registered trademark of DigitalPersona, Inc. SecuGenTM and SecuDesktopTM are a registered trademarks of SecuGen Corporation. EthenticatorTM is a registered trademark of Ethentica Inc.

Note 2: All contents of this table are based on our investigation on attached catalogs, web sites in the references, etc.

[Chart image (355KB)]

B.2 The Procedures for the Fingerprint Systems

The followings give the procedures for each fingerprint device.

Device A: We enroll a finger as a template in the system. And then, enrollment will be finished if the template can be verified in a subsequent verification. We used a logon sequence, which is a function of the system, to know whether the system accepts the finger or not. Fingerprint images are displayed on the screen of the PC both in enrollment an in verification.

Device B: We enroll a finger four times in the system to make a template. We can check whether the template in good condition by activating a verification function. We used this function to know whether the system accepts the finger or not Fingerprint images are not displayed on the screen ofthe PC.

Device C: We enroll a finger three times in the system to make a template. And then, we exit the application of the fingerprint system. We can encounter a verification procedure when we start the application again. We used this procedure to know whether the system accepts the finger or not. Fingerprint images are displayed on the screen of the PC only in enrollment.

Device D: We enroll a finger four times in the system to make a template. We used a logon sequence, which is a function of the system, to know whether the system accepts the finger or not. Fingerprint images are displayed on the screen of the PC only in enrollment.

Device E: We enroll a finger as a template in the system. We can check whether the template is in good condition by activating a verification function. We used this function to know whether the system accepts the finger or not. Fingerprint images are displayed on the screen of the PC both in enrollment and in verification.

Device F: We enroll a finger four times in the system to make a template. We used a logon sequence, which is a function of the system, to know whether the system accepts the finger or not. Fingerprint images are displayed on the screen of the PC only in enrollment.

Device G: The system is the same as that of Device C.

Device H: We enroll a finger three times in the system to make a template. We can check whether the template is in good condition by activating a verification function. We used this function to know whether the system accepts the finger or not. Fingerprint images are displayed on the screen of the PC both in enrollment and in verification.

Device I: We enroll a finger four times in the system to make a template. We can check whether the template is in good condition by activating a verification function. We used this function to know whether the system accepts the finger or not. Fingerprint images are displayed on the screen of the PC only in enrollment.

Device J: We enroll a finger two times in the system to make a template. We used a logon sequence, which is a function of the system, to know whether the system accepts the finger or not. Fingerprint images are displayed on the screen f the PC only in enrollment.

Device K: We enroll a finger three times in the system to make a template. We used a logon sequence entering the user's ID, activating a verification function, to know whether the system accepts the finger or not. Fingerprint images are displayed on the screen of the PC only in enrollment, but not in verification.

From Bruce Schneier's Crypto-Gram, 15 May 2002

Fun with Fingerprint Readers

Tsutomu Matsumoto, a Japanese cryptographer, recently decided to look at biometric fingerprint devices. These are security systems that attempt to identify people based on their fingerprint. For years the companies selling these devices have claimed that they are very secure, and that it is almost impossible to fool them into accepting a fake finger as genuine. Matsumoto, along with his students at the Yokohama National University, showed that they can be reliably fooled with a little ingenuity and $10 worth of household supplies.

Matsumoto uses gelatin, the stuff that Gummi Bears are made out of. First he takes a live finger and makes a plastic mold. (He uses a free-molding plastic used to make plastic molds, and is sold at hobby shops.) Then he pours liquid gelatin into the mold and lets it harden. (The gelatin comes in solid sheets, and is used to make jellied meats, soups, and candies, and is sold in grocery stores.) This gelatin fake finger fools fingerprint detectors about 80% of the time.

His more interesting experiment involves latent fingerprints. He takes a fingerprint left on a piece of glass, enhances it with a cyanoacrylate adhesive, and then photographs it with a digital camera. Using PhotoShop, he improves the contrast and prints the fingerprint onto a transparency sheet. Then, he takes a photo-sensitive printed-circuit board (PCB) and uses the fingerprint transparency to etch the fingerprint into the copper, making it three-dimensional. (You can find photo-sensitive PCBs, along with instructions for use, in most electronics hobby shops.) Finally, he makes a gelatin finger using the print on the PCB. This also fools fingerprint detectors about 80% of the time.

Gummy fingers can even fool sensors being watched by guards. Simply form the clear gelatin finger over your own. This lets you hide it as you press your own finger onto the sensor. After it lets you in, eat the evidence.

Matsumoto tried these attacks against eleven commercially available fingerprint biometric systems, and was able to reliably fool all of them. The results are enough to scrap the systems completely, and to send the various fingerprint biometric companies packing. Impressive is an understatement.

There's both a specific and a general moral to take away from this result. Matsumoto is not a professional fake-finger scientist; he's a mathematician. He didn't use expensive equipment or a specialized laboratory. He used $10 of ingredients you could buy, and whipped up his gummy fingers in the equivalent of a home kitchen. And he defeated eleven different commercial fingerprint readers, with both optical and capacitive sensors, and some with "live finger detection" features. (Moistening the gummy finger helps defeat sensors that measure moisture or electrical resistance; it takes some practice to get it right.) If he could do this, then any semi-professional can almost certainly do much much more.

More generally, be very careful before believing claims from security companies. All the fingerprint companies have claimed for years that this kind of thing is impossible. When they read Matsumoto's results, they're going to claim that they don't really work, or that they don't apply to them, or that they've fixed the problem. Think twice before believing them.

Spy Equipment

2007-11-20T21:16:00.001-08:00

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Explosives and Pyrotechnics

2007-11-20T21:14:00.000-08:00

Explosives and Pyrotechnics

1. Introduction - Welcome to rec.pyrotechnics

2. Reading rec.pyrotechnics

3. Posting to rec.pyrotechnics

4. Legal Aspects of Pyrotechnics

5. PGI - Pyrotechnics Guild International

6. Pyrotechnic Literature

6a. Fireworks Literature
6b. Fringe Literature
6c. Net-Available Information

7. Frequently Asked Questions

7a. Nitrogen Tri-Iodide, NH3.NI3
7b. Thermite
7c. Dry Ice Bombs
7d. Smoke Bombs
7e. Basic Pyrotechnic Devices
7f. Terminator Bombs, MacGyver, etc.
7g. Match Rockets

8. Commonly Used Chemicals in Pyrotechnics

1. Introduction - Welcome to rec.pyrotechnics

Rec.pyrotechnics is a worldwide newsgroup dedicated to the discussion of fireworks and explosives, mostly concerned with their construction. The readers of rec.pyrotechnics welcome anyone with an interest in the subject, be they experienced or just trying to get started in the hobby.

If you are just getting started, try to get hold of as much information on the subject as you can, and read it carefully. If it is explosives you are interested in, make sure you read up on the theory behind explosives. There is a lot of misinformation in movies etc. regarding explosives, so it is important you get a good background from a reliable source.

In the Pyrotechnic Literature section below are several books that are must-reads for anyone serious about pyrotechnics. Try all your local libraries - even if they don't have the books mentioned below, they are sure to have some information on the subject. Remember, you can never be too well-informed - it is *your* safety that is at stake, and not being aware of all the aspects involved is extremely dangerous.

Pyrotechnics and explosives are not safe - factories have been destroyed in the past, and they have access to the best materials and equipment, and take the most stringent safety precautions. Some people on the net have also been injured by accidents, and many of them had years of experience and took extremely comprehensive safety measures.

Some knowledge of chemistry and physics is essential - if you didn't do high-school chemistry, get yourself a chemistry textbook and read it. Make sure you understand the basic principles involved for any composition you might be making. It is a good idea to check a recipe out with someone who is experienced in chemistry, to make sure you haven't missed any safety aspect.

If you take the time to find out all the information, and put safety of yourself and others as your highest priority, you will find pyrotechnics an extremely fun and rewarding hobby.

2. Reading rec.pyrotechnics

Often you will see an interesting composition or method posted to rec.pyrotechnics and the temptation is to run out and try it immediately. However, sometimes information posted will contain errors, or omit important safety aspects. Sometimes people will post methods that they heard from some vague source, or that they think should work but haven't tried.

Leave it for a couple of days to see if anyone on the net responds to it. If not, get a printout of it and read it several times to make sure you are completely familiar with it. If you have any questions or corrections for an article, please don't hesitate to post. People on the net would much rather answer a question that may seem "silly" to you, than to have you get hurt.

Also, a complete archive of rec.pyrotechnics is available on the server news.armory.com in its original message format. You can therefore do a search on past articles there and quite probably find the information you are looking for without needing to ask again. To read the archives, first set your news host by setting the NNTPSERVER environment variable to news.armory.com - this is achieved on Unix machines by typing:

setenv NNTPSERVER news.armory.com

You may then start your newsreader in the usual way. Note however that to resume reading news from your local server you must quit the newsreader and reset the NNTPSERVER variable.

3. Posting to rec.pyrotechnics

If you have a composition or a method that has served you well, please share it with the net. Also if you have a question, people will be happy to help you out with it.

However, please remember that you message is going to be read by a lot of people around the world, many of whom may not be as familiar with aspects of your posting as you are. Include all relevant safety information, for example possible mixing and storage hazards, toxicity, expected behaviour of the composition once ignited etc. Also, it is worth keeping in mind that the relevant legal authorities do read rec.pyrotechnics and other newsgroups.

If you post something you haven't tried, be sure to make that clear in your article. This is a good idea when asking questions as well - make sure it is obvious that you are asking a question, rather than posting something you don't know about and hoping someone will correct it.

Read through your article before posting it to make sure that you have covered every aspect, and that there are no errors or ambiguities that could cause people to interpret part of it the wrong way.

4. Legal Aspects of Pyrotechnics

Chances are that many of the procedures involved in pyrotechnics are illegal without a permit where you live. There are generally separate laws regarding storage of chemicals, manufacture of fireworks, manufacture of explosives, storage of fireworks, storage of explosives, use of fireworks and use of explosives.

The laws regarding fireworks may also be split up in terms of the "Class" of fireworks concerned - commonly available fireworks are Class C, while the fireworks typically seen at displays will be mainly Class B, with some Class C. Make sure you know where you stand in terms of the law in your area, and get a permit if necessary.

Make sure that what you are doing will not cause any damage to other people's property, and that there are no innocent bystanders that can get hurt. There are plenty of laws relating to injury or damage to third parties and their property, not to mention lawsuits. We don't want anyone to get in trouble with the law because of anything here.

5. PGI - Pyrotechnics Guild International

Pyrotechnics Guild International, Inc is a non-profit organization of professional and amateur fireworks enthusiasts: builders, shooters & watchers.

Membership includes a quarterly journal and an annual convention.

For membership information, contact:

PGI
Ed Vanasek
18021 Baseline Ave
Jordan, MN 55352

You need either three recommendations from random people or one recommendation from a PGI member. Dues are $25/yr., US.

Another newsletter is American Fireworks News, monthly, miscellaneous news, technical articles, ads, $19.95/yr.

AFN
Star Rt Box 30
Dingmans Ferry, PA 18328

6. Pyrotechnic Literature

6a. Fireworks Literature

These are extremely good books on the subject of pyrotechnics, and are really a must-read for the serious pyrotechnics enthusiast. Many others that are not listed here are also worth reading - check out your local library, Books In Print, Pyrotechnica Publications etc. for more references.

Conkling, John A.: "Chemistry of Pyrotechnics: Basic Principles & Theory" (Marcel Dekker, New York, NY 1986. (ISBN 0-8247-7443-4).)

See also Conkling's articles in Scientific American (July 1990, pp96-102) and Chemical & Engineering News (June 29, 1981, pp24-32).

Shimizu, Takeo: "Fireworks - The Art, Science and Technique", 2nd ed. (Pyrotechnica Publications, 1988. (ISBN 0-929388-04-6).)

Lancaster, Ronald: "Fireworks, Principles and Practice" (Illus.) 2nd ed. (Chemical Publishing Company Incorporated, 1992. (ISBN 0-8206-0339-2).)

The 1st edition is also available, and is much cheaper. The 2nd edition only has about 20 new pages and some minor corrections, but is about $50 more expensive.

Shimizu often directs people to Lancaster rather than giving the detailed information himself.

Weingart, George W.: "Pyrotechnics" (Illus.) (Chemical Publishing Company Incorporated, 1968. (ISBN 0-8206-0112-8).)

Davis, Tenney L.: "Chemistry of Powder and Explosives"

More references are available from Books In Print.

By far the best sources for all books on fireworks are:

Quantum Tech Publications
208 Franklin Blvd
Mahomet, IL 61853
(217) 586-5999

Pyrotechnica Publications
2302 Tower Drive
Austin, TX 78703

6b. Fringe Literature

These books usually deal with home-made explosives etc. more than fireworks, and are usually dubious at best. Most are not worth buying, especially if you are more interested in the pyrotechnics field.

Much of the information in them is inherently unsafe - many of the books deal with field-expedient methods, and assume that some casualties are acceptable along the way. If you want to try anything out of one of these, it is a good idea to ask about it on the net or to someone experienced in pyrotechnics or explosives.

"The Anarchist's Cookbook": this is in "Books in Print" so your local bookstore should be able to get you a copy. Alternatively, you can send $22 (includes postage) to Barricade Books, PO Box 1401, Secaucus NJ 07096. The Anarchist's Cookbook gets a big thumbs down because it is full of inaccurate information.

"Ragnar's Guide to Home and Recreational Use of High Explosives": thumbs down as it is even more inaccurate than The Anarchist's Cookbook.

US Army Technical Manual 31-210 1969 "Improvised Munitions Handbook": The Improvised Munitions Handbook generally gets okay reviews; it contains a whole bunch of recipes for making explosives etc. out of handy chemicals. You can get it from several sources, gun shows, or for $5 from Sierra Supply.

"Poor Man's James Bond Vol. 2": mostly a set of reprints of various books, in small type. It does have Davis' Chem. of Powder and Explosives and what appears to be Vol. 1 and 2 of the Improvised Munitions Handbook series. Vol. 1 of PMJB has a reprint of Weingart's book Pyrotechnics (?)

Here are some sources for the books. Most of these places will send you a catalog with related material.

Loompanics
P.O. Box 1197
Port Townsend, WA 98368

This company sells a wide selection of fringe books on drugs, explosives, war, survival, etc. Catalog $5.

Sierra Supply
PO Box 1390
Durango CO 81302
(303)-259-1822

Sierra sells a bunch of army surplus stuff, including technical manuals such as the Improvised Munitions Handbook. Sierra has a $10 minimum order + $4 postage. Catalog $1.

Paladin Press, P.O. Box 1307 Boulder, CO 80306

Delta Press Ltd, P.O. Box 1625 Dept. 893 El Dorado, AR 71731

Phoenix Systems, P.O. Box 3339, Evergreen CO 80439 Phoenix carries fuse (50 ft/$9), smoke grenades, tracer ammo, dummy grenades. Catalog $3.

U.S. Cavalry, 2855 Centennial Ave. Radcliff, KY 40160-9000 (502)351-1164 Sells all kinds of military and adventure equipment.

Thanks to Ken Shirriff, Phil Ngai, Keith Wheeler, Charles Marshall, Gary Hughes, and others.

6c. Net-Available Information

Articles from rec.pyrotechnics and other miscellaneous pyrotechnic text files are available by anonymous FTP from paradox1.denver.colorado.edu in the directory Anonymous:Text-files:Pyrotechnics: .

The so-called "gopher files", a collection of 4 introductory files on pyrotechnics, are available using a file transfer client called gopher. The sources for gopher are available via anonymous FTP from boombox.micro.umn.edu in the directory /pub/gopher/ .

You can see what it looks like by telneting to consultant.micro.umn.edu and logging in as "gopher". The pyroguide is in the Gopher system under:

Other Gopher and Information Servers/Fun & Games/Recipes/Misc/Pyrotechnics

These files are quite a good introduction to pyrotechnics, including information on the manufacture of fuses and casings.

"The Big Book Of Mischief", commonly abbreviated TBBOM, is available via anonymous FTP from ftp.std.com, and has the file path:

obi/Mischief/tbbom13.txt (version 1.3, 1991) obi/Mischief/tbbom15.txt (version 1.5, 1994)

It can also be obtained through e-mail from dr@ripco.com

This is generally a compilation of articles from many sources such as 'The Poor Man's James Bond' and from here in rec.pyrotechnics. This also comes under the heading of 'Fringe Literature', as many of the items and methods contained in it are of dubious safety and reliability.

7. Frequently Asked Questions

Below are descriptions of several things that are frequently asked about on rec.pyrotechnics - they are not generally of much use in fireworks, but they are here to cut down message traffic on these subjects which have been covered many times before.

First though, here are some safety rules. Read these and memorize them.

1. Mix only small batches, especially when trying something out for the first time. Some mixtures, particularly flash powder, will detonate rather than deflagrate (just burn) if enough is present to be self- confining. It doesn't take much to do this. Small amounts of unconfined pyrotechnic mixtures may damage your hands, eyes or face. Larger amounts can threaten arms, legs and life. The hazards are greatly reduced by using smaller amounts. Also be aware that a mixture using finer powders will generally behave MUCH more vigorously than the same mixture made with coarser ingredients. Many of these mixtures are MUCH more powerful than comparable amounts of black powder. Black powder is among the tamest of the pyrotechnician's mixtures.

2. Many of these mixtures are corrosive, many are very toxic, some will react strongly with nearly any metal to form much more unstable compounds. Of the toxics, nearly all organic nitrates have *very* potent vasodilator (heart and circulatory system) effects. Doses for heart patients are typically in the small milligram range. Some can be absorbed through the skin.

3. Keep your work area clean and tidy. Dispose of any spilled chemicals immediately. Don't leave open containers of chemicals on your table, since accidental spillage or mixing may occur. Use only clean equipment.

4. If chemicals need to be ground, grind them separately, never together. Thoroughly wash and clean equipment before grinding another chemical.

5. Mixing should be done outdoors, away from flammable structures, and where ventilation is good. Chemicals should not be mixed in metal or glass containers to prevent a shrapnel hazard. Wooden containers are best, to avoid static. Always use a wooden implement for stirring. Powdered mixtures may be mixed by placing them on a sheet of paper and rolling them across the sheet by lifting the sides and corners one at a time.

6. Don't store powdered mixtures, in general. If a mixture is to be stored, keep it away from heat sources, in cardboard or plastic containers. Keep all chemicals away from children or pets.

7. Be sure all stoppers or caps, especially screw tops, are thoroughly clean. Traces of mixture caught between the cap and the container can be ignited by friction from opening or closing the container.

8. Always wear a face shield, or at least shatterproof safety glasses. Also wear a dust mask when handling powdered chemicals. Particulate matter in the lungs can cause severe respiratory problems later in life. Wear gloves and a lab apron when handling chemicals. This rule is very important.

9. Make sure there are no ignition sources near where you are working. This includes heaters, motors and stove pilot lights. Above all, DON'T SMOKE!

10. Have a source of water READILY available. A fire extinguisher is best, a bucket of water is the bare minimum.

11. Never, under any circumstances, use metal or glass casings for fireworks. Metal and glass shrapnel can travel a long way, through body parts that you'd rather they didn't.

12. Always be thoroughly familiar with the chemicals you are using. Don't just rely on the information provided with the recipe. Look for extra information - the Merck Index is very good for this, especially regarding toxicity. It can also provide pointers to journal articles about the chemical.

13. Wash up carefully after handling chemicals. Don't forget to wash your ears and your nose.

14. If a device you build fails to work, leave it alone for half an hour, then bury it. Commercial stuff can be soaked in water for 30 minutes after being left for 30, then after 24 hours cautious disassembly can be a valid learning experience. People have found "duds" from shoots that took place over a year ago, having been exposed to rain etc, which STILL functioned when fitted with fresh fuse or disposed of in a bonfire. Even after a 30 minute waiting period (minimum), initial pickup should be with a long- handled shovel.

15. Treat all chemicals and mixtures with respect. Don't drop them or handle them roughly. Treat everything as if it may be friction- or shock-sensitive. Always expect an accident and prepare accordingly, even if all these safety precautions are observed. Several people on the net have gotten stitches, lost fingers, or been severely burned. Some of them were very scrupulous in their safety precautions and had many years' safe experience with pyrotechnics.

7a. Nitrogen Tri-Iodide, NI3.NH3

Nitrogen Tri-Iodide is a very unstable compound that decomposes explosively with the slightest provocation. It is too unstable to have any practical uses, but is often made for its novelty value. Some books describe uses for it in practical jokes etc. but in my experience it has been far too unstable for this to be a feasible idea. Despite its common name, the explosive compound is actually a complex between nitrogen tri-iodide and ammonia, NI3.NH3 (nitrogen tri-iodide monoammine).

Reagents:

Solid Iodine (I2)

Ammonia solution (NH4OH) - Use only pure, clear ammonia. Other solutions, such as supermarket 'cloudy' ammonia, will not give the desired product.

Place a few fine crystals of iodine in a filter paper. The best way to make fine iodine crystals is to dissolve the iodine in a small quantity of hot methanol (care: methanol is toxic and flammable. Heat on a steam bath away from open flame. Use in a well-ventilated area.), and then pour the solution into a container of ice-cold water. This will cause extremely fine iodine crystals to precipitate out. Drain off the liquid and wash the crystals with cold water. If this method is not possible, crush the iodine as finely as possible.

Then filter ammonia through the iodine crystals. Use a small amount of ammonia and refilter it, to reduce wastage. The smaller the pieces of iodine the better the result, as more iodine will react if it has a greater surface area. You will be able to recognise the NI3.NH3 by its black colour, as opposed to the metallic purple of the iodine.

Reaction: 3I + 5NH OH ---> 3NH I + NI .NH + 5H O

2(s) 4 (aq) 4 (aq) 3 3(s) 2 (l)

When the NI3.NH3 decomposes it will leave brown or purple iodine stains. These are difficult to remove normally, but can be removed with sodium thiosulphate solution (photographic hypo). They will fade with time as the iodine sublimes.

Safety aspects:

NI3.NH3: Despite the common misconception presented in many articles on NI3.NH3, it is NOT safe when wet. I have personally witnessed NI3.NH3 exploding while at the bottom of a 1000Ml plastic beaker full of water. NI3.NH3 can not be relied on not to decompose at any time. Even the action of air wafting past it can set it off.

If you want to dispose of some NI3.NH3 once you have made it, it

can be reacted safely with sodium hydroxide solution. NI3.NH3 is a potent high explosive, and should be treated with respect. Its power, instability and unpredictability require that only small batches be made. Do not make more than you can immediately use. Never attempt to store NI3.NH3.

The detonation of NI3.NH3 releases iodine as a purple mist or

vapour. This is toxic, so avoid breathing it. Toxicity data on NI3.NH3 is unknown, but I think it is safe to assume that eating or touching it would be a bad idea anyway.

Iodine: Iodine sublimes easily at room temperature and is toxic - ingestion of 2-4g of iodine can be fatal. Make sure you are in a well-ventilated area, and avoid touching the iodine directly.

Ammonia: Again, use in a well-ventilated area as ammonia is not particularly pleasant to inhale. Ammonia is corrosive, so avoid skin contact, especially if using relatively concentrated solution. If skin contact occurs, wash off with water. Don't drink it.

7b. Thermite

The thermite reaction is a redox reaction that produces a lot of heat and light. In its usual configuration, temperatures can exceed 3000 degrees C, and molten iron is produced. It is therefore mainly used for welding, and by the Army in incendiary grenades.

There are many possible configurations - basically it is the reaction between a reactive metal and the oxide of a less reactive metal. The most common is as follows:

Aluminium powder, Al (coarse) 1 volume part or 3 weight parts

Iron (III) Oxide, Fe203 1 volume part or 1 weight part

A stoichiometric mixture will provide best results.

The powders are mixed together and ignited with a suitable fuse. Many people use magnesium ribbon - I don't recommend this, as magnesium ribbon is not all that easy to light, and quite prone to going out due to oxygen starvation. A much better fuse for thermite is a common sparkler. The mixture should be shielded with aluminium foil or similar to prevent sparks from the sparkler igniting the thermite prematurely.

Reaction: 2Al + Fe O ---> Al O + 2Fe + lots of heat

(s) 2 3(s) 2 3(s) (l)

The mixture can be varied easily, as long as the metal oxide you are using is of a less reactive metal than the elemental one you are using, e.g. copper oxide and zinc. Adjust the ratios accordingly.

Safety aspects:

Reaction: Make sure you no longer need whatever you are igniting the thermite on - the reaction will melt and/or ignite just about anything. If you ignite the thermite on the ground, make sure the ground is DRY and free of flammable material. If the ground is wet a burst of steam may occur, scattering 3000 degree metal everywhere.

Be careful when igniting the thermite - use adequate shielding to prevent premature ignition. Don't get close to the mixture once ignited - it has been known to spark and splatter. Don't look at the reaction directly. It produces large amounts of ultraviolet light that can damage the eyes. Use welder's goggles, 100% UV filter sunglasses or do not look at all.

Aluminium: Chemical dust in the lungs is to be avoided. As always, wear a dust mask. Make sure the environment you are working in is dry - aluminium powder can be dangerous when wet. Fine aluminium dust is pyrophoric - this means it can spontaneously ignite in air. For this reason aluminium powder with a large particle size is recommended.

Iron Oxide: This is not directly toxic, but any particulate matter in the lungs is not good. Again, the dust mask is important.

7c. Dry Ice Bombs

Dry ice bombs are devices that use pressure to burst a container, producing a loud report and limited shock effects. No chemical reaction is involved - the container, usually a plastic 2-litre soft drink bottle, is burst by the physical reaction of solid carbon dioxide, CO2, subliming into gas. As the CO2 sublimes, the pressure builds up and eventually the container ruptures.

The method is very simple - some dry ice is added to the container, some water is added (about 1/3-1/4 full) and the cap is screwed on tight. Within a short time the container will burst, usually extremely loudly. The water can be omitted if a longer delay time is required. It is reported that these devices can be manufactured using liquid nitrogen instead of dry ice, and no water. This is not recommended as the delay time will be substantially shorter.

Safety aspects:

Device: NEVER use glass or metal containers! I cannot stress this enough. Dry ice bombs are extremely unpredictable as to when they will go off, and a glass or metal container is very very dangerous to both the constructor and anyone else in the vicinity. Plastic bottles are much safer because the fragments slow down quicker, and thus have a smaller danger radius around the device. Plastic fragments are still very nasty though - don't treat the device with any less caution just because it is made of plastic.

There is no way to tell how long you have until the dry ice bomb explodes - it can be anywhere from a few seconds to half an hour. Never add the water or screw the cap on the container until you are at the site you want to use it and you are ready to get away.

Never go near a dry ice bomb after it has been capped. If a dry ice bomb fails to go off, puncture it from long range with a slingshot, BB gun, by throwing stones at it or similar. Some indication of timing can be achieved by semi-crushing the container before capping - once the container has expanded back to its original shape it is no longer safe to be anywhere near.

Don't forget that the temperature of the day and the size of the dry ice pieces will affect the delay length - don't assume that delay times will be similar between bombs. A hotter day or smaller pieces of dry ice (i.e. greater surface area) will create a shorter delay. Remember, even though no chemical reaction occurs you can still be legally charged with constructing a bomb.

Dry Ice: Humans will suffocate in an atmosphere with a carbon dioxide concentration of 10% or more. Use in a well-ventilated area. Dry ice typically has a temperature of about -75 degrees C, so do not allow it to come into contact with the skin, as freezer burns and frostbite will occur. Always use gloves or tongs when handling dry ice.

7d. Smoke Bombs

A relatively cheap and simple smoke mixture is potassium nitrate (saltpetre) and sugar. The mixture can be used in powder form, but much better results are achieved by melting the components together. The mixture should be heated slowly until it just melts - beware of excessive heating as the mixture will ignite. Keep a bucket of water next to you in case the mixture does ignite, and peform the entire operation outdoors if possible.

The mixture does not have to be completely liquid, the point at which it has about the viscosity of tar or cold honey is about right. While it is semi-liquid it can be poured into cardboard or clay molds, and a fuse inserted. Once it cools and hardens it will be similar to a stick of hard candy, hence its common name of "caramel candy".

Safety aspects:

Mixture: The mixture burns very hot. Don't go near it once ignited, and don't assume that whatever the mixture is contained in or standing on will survive. Try not to breathe the smoke as fine particles in the lungs are not good for them.

7e. Basic Pyrotechnic Devices

Stars

A star is an amount of pyrotechnic composition that has by some means been fashioned into a solid object. These are the bright burning objects you see ejected from Roman candles, shells, mines etc.

Usually the pyrotechnic composition is mixed with a binder and a small amount of solvent to make a doughy mass which is then fashioned into stars, although some use has been made of so-called pressed stars, which involve the composition being pressed extremely hard into a mold with a hydraulic press or similar, thus doing without the solvent.

The usual methods are to make the composition into a flat pancake or sausage and cut it up into stars ("cut stars"), pushing it through a tube with a dowel, cutting it off at regular intervals ("pumped stars") or rolling cores of lead shot coated in fire clay in a bowl of the composition ("rolled stars").

Cutting and pumping produce cubic or cylindrical stars, while rolling produces spherical stars. Pumped stars are the most suitable for Roman candles, because it is easy to get the correct width. The stars are often dusted with a primer, usually meal black powder, to ensure ignition.

Shell

The shell is a sphere or cylinder of papier mache or plastic which contains stars and a bursting charge, together with a fuse. It is fired into the air from a tube using a lift charge, usually black powder. The time the fuse takes determines the height above the ground at which the shell will burst, igniting and spreading the stars.

Rocket

A rocket consists of a tube of rocket fuel, sealed at one end, with a constriction, or nozzle, at the other end. The burning fuel produces exhaust gases, which, when forced out the nozzle, produce thrust, moving the rocket in the other direction.

Solid fuel rockets can be one of two types - end-burning, where the fuel is solidly packed into the tube, so the fuel can only burn at one end - and core-burning, where there is a central core longitudinally through the fuel, so the fuel can burn down its full length. At the top of the rocket can be a smoke composition, so it is possible to determine the maximum height ("apogee") of the rocket, or a burst charge and stars.

Lance

A lance is a thin paper tube containing a pyrotechnic composition. These are most commonly used in large numbers to make writing and pictures at fireworks shows - this is referred to as lancework. The tube is thin so burns completely away as the lance burns, so as not to restrict light emission from the burning section.

Gerb

These are pyrotechnic sprays, often referred to as fountains or flower- pots. They consist of a tube full of composition, sealed at one end and with a nozzle at the other, similar to a rocket. Unlike a rocket, they are not designed to move anywhere, so all the emphasis is on making the nozzle exhaust as long as pretty as possible, with large amounts of sparks, nice colours etc.

The sparks are produced by metal powders or coarse charcoal in the gerb composition, with coarse titanium powder being the chemical of choice. Gerb compositions in a thin tube set up in a spiral arrangement are used as wheel drivers, for spinning fireworks e.g. Catherine wheels.

Waterfall

These are similar to gerbs, but usually do not spray as far. They are usually mounted horizontally in banks of several tubes, placed some distance above the ground. When ignited, the effect is like a brilliant waterfall of sparks.

Mine

These have a mortar arrangement similar to that for a shell, but are not designed to send out a shell. The lift charge sends up a bag full of stars and a bursting charge, with a short fuse set to spread the stars relatively close to the ground. Because the bag has much less strength than a shell, the stars are not spread as far, and the final effect is that of a shower of stars moving upward in an inverted cone formation.

7f. Terminator Bombs, MacGyver, etc.

The first thing to remember when watching pyrotechnics in movies, TV shows etc. is that it is exactly that, not real life. There is almost always no point in trying to extrapolate what MacGyver, for example, does back to reality, with respect to pyrotechnics at least. Reese making those bombs from supermarket supplies in Terminator was bogus, as are pretty much any information on explosives you receive from movies. Sorry.

8. Commonly Used Chemicals in Pyrotechnics

Ignitibility and Reactivity

The secret of making a good pyrotechnic mixture is _homogeneity_. The better the contact with the oxidiser and the fuel is, the fiercer the composition. Finely ground fuels and oxidisers are essential for good stars and propellants. The required intimacy also implies that mixing can never be thorough enough.

For consistent results, use the same sieves and same mixing methods. Wet mixing is sometimes more efficient than stirring the dry composition; moreover, it is almost always safer. Star compositions and granulated powders can almost always be mixed with water or some other solvent.

Good, homogenous compositions also ignite more easily. Large amounts of loose, fine powder of almost any pyrotechnic composition represent a large fire and explosion hazard. But when such a powder is kneaded and cut into stars or carefully pressed in a tube, it will take fire easily and burn smoothly.

This is the pyrotechnist's dilemma: the best compositions are often the most dangerous ones, too. But not always. There are chemicals and compositions with much worse safety records than today's compositions have. In the list of pyrotechnic chemicals below, the most notorious ones have been indicated.

Aluminium, Al -- Fuel

This is used in many compositions to produce bright white sparks or a a bright white flame. There are many grades of aluminium available for different spark effects. Most pyrotechnic compositions that involve sparks use aluminium, e.g. sparklers, waterfalls etc.

Ammonium Nitrate, NH4NO3 -- Oxidiser

This is used very infrequently in pyrotechnics due to its hygroscopic nature and the fact that it decomposes even at relatively low temperatures. Even when dry, it reacts with Al, Zn, Pb, Sb, Bi, Ni, Cu, Ag and Cd. In the presence of moisture it reacts with Fe. It reacts with Cu to form a brissant and sensitive compound. It is best not to use any bronze or brass tools when working with ammonium nitrate.

Ammonium perchlorate, NH4ClO4 -- Oxidiser

Used as an oxidiser in solid rocket fuels, most notably the solid booster rockets for the Space Shuttle. Using it in a composition improves the production of rich blues and reds in the flames. As with any ammonium salt, it should not be mixed with chlorates due to the possible formation of ammonium chlorate, a powerful and unstable explosive.

Anthracene, C14H10 -- Smoke Ingredient

Used in combination with potassium perchlorate to produce black smokes.

Antimony, Sb -- Fuel

The metal is commonly used in the trade as 200-300 mesh powder. It is mainly used with potassium nitrate and sulphur, to produce white fires. It is also responsible in part for the glitter effect seen in some fireworks.

Antimony trisulphide, SbS3 -- Fuel

This is used to sharpen the reports of pyrotechnic noisemakers, e.g. salutes. It is toxic and quite messy.

Barium salts -- Colouring Agents

Used to colour fires green. several are used:

Barium carbonate, BaCO3 -- Colouring Agent, Stabilizer

As well as being a green flame-colourer, barium carbonate acts as a neutralizer to keep potentially dangerous acid levels down in pyrotechnic compositions.

Barium chlorate, Ba(ClO3)2.H2O -- Colouring Agent, Oxidiser

Used when deep green colours are needed. It is one of the more sensitive chemicals which are still used, best to avoid if possible, but if used it should be in combination with chemicals which will reduce its sensitivity.

Barium nitrate, Ba(NO3)2 -- Colouring Agent/Enhancer, Oxidiser

Not very strong green effect. Used with aluminium powder to produce silver effects. Below 1000C aluminium burns silvery-gold, characteristic of aluminium-gunpowder compositions. Above 1000C it burns silver, and may be achieved using barium nitrate. Boric acid should always be used in compositions containing barium nitrate and aluminium.

Barium oxalate, BaC2O4 -- Colouring Agent

Sometimes used, generally in specialised items with magnesium.

Boric acid, H3BO3 -- Stabilizer

This is a weak acid, often included in mixtures that are sensitive to basic conditions, notably those containing aluminium.

Calcium carbonate, CaCO3 -- Stabilizer

Used as a neutralizer in mixtures that are sensitive to both acids and bases, for example chlorate/aluminium flashpowder.

Calcium oxalate, CaC2O4 -- Colour Enhancer

Used to add depth to colours produced by other metal salts.

Carbon black/Lampblack, C -- Fuel

A very fine form of carbon made by incompletely burning hydrocarbon fuels. Commonly used in gerbs to produce bright orange sparks.

Charcoal, C -- Fuel

Probably the most common fuel in firework manufacture, it is not pure carbon and may contain in excess of 10% hydrocarbons. Indeed, the purer carbon charcoals (e.g. activated charcoal) do not necessarily give better results, and are very often worse than less pure grades. It is included in the vast majority of pyrotechnic compositions in various mesh sizes and grades, or as a component of black gunpowder.

Clay

This is an important material for making fireworks, not as a reagent but to perform various practical applications such as blocking or constricting the ends of tubes for crackers or rocket nozzles, or coating lead shot prior to the application of star composition when making rolled stars.

Copper and copper compounds -- Colouring Agents

Used to add both green and blue colours to flames:

Copper metal, Cu -- Colouring Agent

Both the bronze and electrolytic forms are occasionally used, but easier methods are available for the same effect.

Copper acetoarsenate, C4H6As6Cu4O16 -- Colouring Agent

Commonly called Paris Green, this chemical is toxic but used to produce some of the best blue colours in combination with potassium perchlorate.

Copper carbonate, CuCO3 -- Colouring Agent

This is the best copper compound for use with ammonium perchlorate for production of blue colours. Also used in other blue compositions.

Copper (I) chloride, CuCl -- Colouring Agent

Cuprous chloride is probably the best copper compound for creating blue and turquoise flames, and it can be used with a variety of oxidizers. It is non-hygroscopic and insoluble in water, but it is oxidised slowly in air.

Copper oxides, CuO/Cu2O -- Colouring Agent

Used for many years for blues, but needed mercury chloride to intensify colours. Seldom used.

Copper oxychloride -- Colouring Agent

Occasionally used in cheap blue compositions.

Cryolite, Na3AlF6 -- Colouring Agent

Also known as Greenland spar, this is an insoluble sodium salt. Sodium salts are used to produce yellow colours, but as sodium salts generally absorb water this tends to be a problem. By using cryolite this problem is surmounted.

Dextrin -- Binder

Dextrin is a type of starch that is added to many firework mixtures to hold the composition together. It is the most commonly used binder in pyrotechnics.

Gallic acid (3,4,5-trihydroxybenzoic acid)

This is used in some formulas for whistling fireworks. Whistle mixes containing gallic acid are generally the most sensitive of the whistling fireworks, with high sensitivity to both friction and impact when used with chlorates, but cannot be used with perchlorates either. There are safer alternatives for whistle compositions.

Gum arabic (Gum Acacia) -- Binder

An example of the various wood-resin-based adhesives used to bind firework compositions. Others used include Red Gum and Gum Copal.

Gunpowder

Black powder is the mainstay of pyrotechnics. At a basic level it is a mixture of potassium nitrate, charcoal and sulphur. However, simply mixing these ingredients together will not produce proper black powder. It merely produces a much milder version, which itself is used extensively in pyrotechnics, and is commonly called meal powder.

True black powder takes advantage of the extreme solubility of potassium nitrate by mixing the very fine milled ingredients into a dough with water, then using strong compression to force the water out of the mixture, so that tiny crystals of potassium nitrate form in and around the particles of the other ingredients. This produces a product that is far fiercer than the simple meal powder.

Hexachlorobenzene, C6Cl6 -- Colour Enhancer

Used as a chlorine donor in coloured compositions that require one. Rarely used, with PVC, Saran and Parlon being preferred.

Hexachloroethane, C2Cl6 -- Smoke Ingredient

The basic ingredient in many military smoke formulas. Not often used with inorganic smoke mixtures, except those containing zinc.

Iron, Fe -- Fuel

The metal filings are used mainly in gerbs to produce sparks. Iron will not keep well in firework compositions, and so it is generally pre-coated with an oil/grease. One simple method is to add 1 gram of linseed oil to 16 grams of iron filings, mix, and boil off the excess oil.

Linseed oil -- Stabilizer

Used to coat metal powders in order to prevent them from oxidation, both prior to use and in the firework composition. Polyesters are used in commercial fireworks, but linseed oil remains an accessible option to the amateur.

Lithium carbonate, Li2CO3 -- Colouring Agent

Used to colour fires red. It has no advantage over strontium salts for the same purpose.

Magnesium, Mg -- Fuel

Used to produce brilliant white fires. Should be coated with linseed oil/ polyester resin if contained in a composition which is not to be used immediately, as it may react with other components of the mixture. The coarser magnesium turnings are sometimes used in fountains to produce crackling sparks. Magnesium-aluminium alloys give similar effects, and are rather more stable in compositions.

Parlon -- Colour Enhancer, Binder

Parlon is a chlorine donor, and a key ingredient in many coloured stars. It is a chlorinated isoprene rubber, chlorine content 66%. It interferes with burning less than PVC or saran, and can be used as a binder. It is soluble in methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) and partially in acetone. Compositions made with parlon and acetone or MEK are nearly waterproof.

Phosphorus, P -- Fuel

Phosphorus is rarely used in pyrotechnics today, except for a few specialized applications. It was used commonly many years ago, but as the hazards associated with its use became known it dropped out of use.

Phosphorus comes in several forms, of which the red and the white/yellow varieties were used. Red phosphorus (used in the strikers on the side of matchboxes) is the more stable form, while white phosphorus (used by the military in incendiary devices) ignites spontaneously in air, and must therefore be stored under water or otherwise protected from the atmosphere. Both forms are toxic.

Polyvinylchloride (PVC) -- Colour Enhancer, Binder

PVC is a commonly used chlorine donor. It is not as good as Parlon for this purpose, but is cheaper and more readily available. PVC is soluble in tetrahydrofuran (THF) but almost all other solvents are useless. Methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) will plasticise PVC to some extent, however.

Potassium benzoate, C6H5CO2K -- Fuel

Used in whistling fireworks, in combination with potassium perchlorate. It must be very dry for this purpose, and should be less than 120 mesh.

Potassium chlorate, KClO3 -- Oxidiser

Originally used very commonly in pyrotechnics, potassium chlorate has gradually been phased out due to its sensitivity, in favor of potassium perchlorate. Mixtures containing potassium chlorate and ammonium salts, phosphorus or anything acidic are particularly dangerous. For this reason mixtures containing potassium chlorate and sulphur are to be avoided, as sulphur (especially the common "flowers" of sulphur) may contain residual amounts of acid that can sensitize the mixture. In general, potassium chlorate should be avoided unless absolutely necessary.

Chlorates have probably caused more accidents in the industry than all other classes of oxidisers together. The reason lies in their sensitivity to acids and their low decomposition temperature. When mixed with an easily ignitable fuel, such as sugar or sulfur, chlorates will ignite from a fingernail striking a wire screen. Moreover, sulfur is often acidic, a fact that has lead to spontaneous ignition of sulfur-chlorate compositions. If you intend to use chlorates, pay extra attention to safety.

Potassium nitrate, KNO3 -- Oxidiser

A very common oxidising agent in pyrotechnics, potassium nitrate is one of the chemicals you should never be without. From its essential use in gunpowder to general applications in most fireworks, you will find potassium nitrate used wherever a relatively mild oxidiser is required. In fireworks it should pass 120 mesh, but can be used at 60 mesh. The fine powder should be used as soon as possible after grinding or milling as it will soon cake and have to be re-ground.

Potassium perchlorate, KClO4 -- Oxidiser

More expensive than potassium chlorate, but a better oxidising agent and far safer. In almost all mixtures that previously required the chlorate, safety factors have led to its replacement with potassium perchlorate. It should be used in place of the chlorate wherever possible.

Potassium picrate

This is a shock sensitive compound that is used in some whistle formulas. While safer than gallic acid formulas in this respect, care should be taken to keep it away from other metals such as lead, because some other metallic picrates are extremely sensitive.

Saran -- Colour Enhancer, Binder

Saran is another plastic chlorine donor. It is most commonly encountered in the form of the cling wrap used to protect foodstuffs. It is slightly soluble in tetrahydrofuran (THF) and will be plasticised by methyl ethyl ketone (MEK).

Shellac -- Binder

Shellac is an organic rosin commonly used as a binder where a water- soluble binder would be inappropriate. It can be bought at hardware stores in the form of lustrous orange flakes, which can be dissolved in boiling ethanol.

Sodium salts -- Colouring Agents

Sodium salts are sometimes used in place of the corresponding potassium salts, but this is uncommon due to their hygroscopic nature. They rapidly absorb water from the air, which can ruin a pyrotechnic composition. In particularly dry environments they can be used without too much trouble, and are therefore used in places like Egypt due to the relative cheapness of some of the salts with respect to the potassium ones. Sodium salts are also used as colourising agents, producing a characteristic orange flame.

Strontium salts -- Colouring Agents

Used to colour flames a brilliant red:

Strontium carbonate, SrCO3 -- Colouring Agent, Retardant

Used often for producing red colours, and as a fire retardant in gunpowder mixtures.

Strontium oxalate, SrC2O4 -- Colouring Agent, Retardant, Stabilizer

As for strontium carbonate, generally, but suffers from greater water content.

Strontium nitrate, Sr(NO3)2 -- Colouring Agent, Oxidiser

This is the most commonly used strontium salt, because it provides the most superb red colour available. Best results will be acheived if the strontium nitrate is anhydrous.

Sulphur, S -- Fuel

Another basic fuel in pyrotechnics, sulphur is used in many pyrotechnic formulas across the range of fireworks, most obviously in black powder. It is recommended to avoid the common "flowers" of sulphur, as they contain residual acid. If they cannot be avoided, a small amount of a neutralizer such as calcium carbonate should be added if acid is likely to present a problem.

Titanium, Ti -- Fuel

The coarse powder is safer than aluminium or magnesium for producing sparks, and gives rise to beautiful, long, forked blue/white sparks. Fantastic for use in any spark composition, especially gerbs.

Petroleum jelly (Vaseline) -- Stabilizer

Very occasionally used to protect metal powders e.g. iron by coating them with a thin film of petroleum jelly.

Zinc, Zn -- Fuel, Smoke Ingredient

Zinc metal is used in what are known as zinc spreader stars, which produce a very nice effect that looks like a green glowing cloud. Also used in several smoke formulas, due to the thick clouds of zinc oxide that can be produced.

SPECIAL CAVEATS

AVOID:

Mixing chlorates with: acidic ingredients, sulphur or sulphides, ammonium salts, phosphorus, pitch or asphalt, gum arabic solution.

Mixing picric acid with: lead or lead compounds, almost any other metal.

Mixing ammonium nitrate with metals especially copper.

Mixing nitrates with aluminium WITHOUT boric acid

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

EMP Bomb

2007-11-20T21:13:00.001-08:00

Recently there has been a lot of hype based on the EMP - the Electro Magnetic Pulse. On the Matrix we saw these blasting away robots trying to subdue the humans. In real life their uses are often more to do with electronic warfare. The type of pulse I will talk about here is non directional. That is to say the pulse travels out from the device in a circle.

But what is it? Basically it's like a radiowave that when it hits wire generates electricity (I know thats not REALLY it, but this isn't a physics class - besides i'm writing for Americans.) The electronics aren't designed for this sort of surge and burn out. This makes the pulse especially useful against unprotected devices (such as average PC's & CCTV).

Enough of the dull stuff here's how to make it. You need:

1 Aluminium tube.

1 Length of copper wire (enough to wrap around the tube with a bit left over).

Explosive and detonator.

Firstly put the explosives and the detonator into the tube in a standard mid-fuse pattern. Then wrap the wire around the tube from one end to the other making a "circle" of wire at the end (like the TV receivers).

When this is done you detonate the fuse and as the explosion passes down the tube a current is generated down the wire and the pulse is "transmitted" out of that little circle of wire. The size of the pulse depends on the size of the tube and the explosives.

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

How to Make Egg Based Gelled Flame Fuel

2007-11-20T21:12:00.002-08:00

by The Unabomber

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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
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EGG BASED GELLED FLAME FUELS WHAT YOU NEED:

85% Petrol
14% Egg Whites
1% Table Salt

LIST OF EQUIPMENT

*Medium sized jar
*Large Bowl
*Something to stir with

N O T I C E

PLEASE! DON'T SMOKE IN THE SAME ROOM WHEN YOU DO THIS. OPEN A WINDOW IN THE ROOM IF YOU CAN. FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS EXACTLY. THIS RECIPE HAS BEEN TESTED AND THIS IS THE BEST WAY TO DO IT. DON'T TAKE SHORTCUTS, AND DON'T EVEN START TO DO THIS UNLESS YOU HAVE ABOUT 1/2 HOUR TO SPARE.

(1) Seperate the egg white from the yolk. (Remove the yolk with a spoon.)

(2) Pour the egg white/s into the jar, and add gasoline.

(3) Add the salt to the mixture and stir until a gel forms (about 5 to 10 minutes).

(4) Cap the jar, and put it in hot (About 65 Degrees) water for about 1/2 hour and then let them cool to room temperature

Electrical Time Delay Detonators

2007-11-20T21:12:00.001-08:00

Electrical Time Delay Detonators
by mach8r/lynxtor

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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
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You will need:

The bomb
A 9V Battery
A 1.5V light bulb (from a mini Maglite or Radioshack)
A metal rod an inch long about 5mm in diameter
(Analogue) cheap watch or Clock

You will need a clock (an analogue one), and if it doesn't have metallic hands then you will need to put a coating of alfoil or electroplate it or something. Next get a 9V battery and connect it to the main shaft which moves the hands with some wire.

Method 1.

Now connect the other terminal of the battery to a small 1.5V light bulb with the glass smashed off the end of it. Use a long piece of wire so as not to damage the clock or battery in the blast. Don't try turning it on yet or you'll be needing to go down to Radio shack again to get another one, and we all know you don't want to go back there. Now connect the free terminal of the light bulb (via a very long piece of wire) to a small metal rod that conducts electricity. If your clock has a metal face you might want to try insulating the rod or else well, you're screwed. Don't insulate the whole rod though; the hand needs to touch metal to complete the circuit (dumb shit).

You don't want to use anything that is a bad conductor or resistors in this thing because you need the full 9 volts. Now drill a hole that will let the rod fit in nice and snug in the clock face depending on how long you want to wait before KA-FUCKING-BOOOOOM!!!!.

If you want a delay of 5 minutes set the hands to the 12 mark (turn it off) and drill the hole on the five mark, then cut off the seconds hand (so it doesn't blow you to hell before you want). If you want the bomb to blow after an hour or more you will need to cut of the minute hand and drill a hole where you want it to go boom. So if you want 6 hours put a hole in the six. Make sure the hand will touch the rod as it goes around. Don't put it out of reach of the hand or you'll be waiting for a long, long, long time. Also, don't let the hand touch the rod until you're outta there or you'll know about it.

Then connect the battery properly, put the light bulb into the bomb, turn on the clock and RUN. You have as long as you need with this baby.

Method 2.

My friend lynxtor suggested this one.

Basically the same as method 1 except instead of connecting the wire from the battery to the clock hand shaft, you connect it to another small rod drilled in carefully so that the passing metal hand will connect the two terminals. It's a good idea with this one to test it on another light bulb to test if it will work or not

Cheap Diversion Bomb

2007-11-20T20:59:00.000-08:00

by The Vandal

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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
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A diversion bomb isnt actually a bomb at all but it can be used for diversions. Take a small plastic water bottle (the one used here is 16.9 FL OZ) and take the cap off. Fill the bottom of the bottle with about 1 teaspoon of gunpowder. Take the cap and drill a very small hole in the top of it. You can also heat up a sewing needle and use it to melt a hole through the cap. The hole should be large enough to accommodate for a 3-inch long fuse (drill the hole according to your own estimated diameter of the fuse). Make sure the fuse fits tightly into the cap. Screw the cap back onto the bottle. The fuse should be hanging out of the cap at about 1/2 inches on each side. Ignite the fuse, throw the bottle and run. When the bottle explodes the sound it creates can be heard for a great distance (about 7 neighborhood blocks in diameter).

Other uses for this Water Bottle Bomb: The bottleneck can be put into a parking cone (the orange ones you see lying around a school campus) top by inserting it through the bottom. The parking cone acts as a platform for the bottle and when ignited the pressure that is created will send the parking cone flying into the air at a height of about 25 feet high.

Also, instead of using a plastic bottle, you can use a glass bottle. It wont cause such a loud sound, but it will send glass hurling into the air and fast speeds.

Ways to get free cable

2007-11-20T20:58:00.002-08:00

Today I will cover the most commonly used method of cable
scrambling, that of In-Band gated sync. For the more comatose of
you, I will now present a brief description of how it works and
why it is so commonly used.

The simplest first: It is often used because the boxes are so
damn cheap. The gated sync unscramblers do not even require a
tuner, the whole process is done semi-passively and requires no
internal connections to the TV. Hence, an easy way out for the
cable companies who insult you by thinking all its subscribers
are average dolts, not requiring their attention. (hum...ma bell
must have thought that way once (cough, cough, chuckle...).

The basic workings of the gated sync are as follows:

First, I must define a sync pulse. It is a part of the TV's
video signal which lines the signal up, causing it to come
out all nice and neat so you see a good picture. What gated
sync does is to remove that portion of the signal, and
transmit it on a subcarrier with the rest of the signal.
This results in the scrambled mess you see when you
desperate ones try to watch the playboy channel and your
parents haven't subscribed to it. Now, keep in mind, the
sync portion of the signal is not distorted at all, but
merely transmitted on a slightly diverted frequency. Thus,
it remains in time with the rest of the signal, and needs
only to be recombined with the rest of the signal. This is
much simpler than it may seem. All the circuit must be able
to do is to receive the sync pulses, and retransmit them on
the original frequency, where they will be lined up
properly.
"But" you may say, "isn't that rather difficult?" not at
all, my friends; think of your video modulator: It must
transmit the entire signal, and it is only about 2"*1"*1".
The receiving is simple: the receiver doesn't need to be
able to change channels - the cable companies need only have
their unscramblers set for the channel the box receives on,
because that is the only one it will be necessary to
unscramble.

How to figure out if you have gated sync scrambling:

This method of scrambling is characterized by correct sound,
and a picture that is allllmoooost normal, if you could just
get the vertical hold to work a little more. if you want to
be 100% sure, call up your cable Co's customer help line and
ask. I know this sounds ridiculous, but I called Century
Cable in California for the Pope, and it worked for me. Just
play it cool and say "what kind of scrambling method are you
using?" and I they should give it to you. Incidentally,
Century Cable does use gated sync, for anyone in California
who happens to read this.

Places to get gated sync units:

Well, the best place to look is in the back of electronics
magazines - not the idiot ones like 'Popular Electronics'
(does it even still exist?) but the dedicated electronics
ones- like Radio-Electronics (best) or 73, the Amateur Radio
technical journal.

Here is an address which I got out of Radio Electronics,
August 1985, p.110: Gated sync: kit form, all parts,
instructions, very good, $39. Write to: J&W Electronics,
Inc. p.o. box 800, Mansfield, MA. 02048 Phone: 1 800 227
8529 (Orders) 617 339 5372 (tech. info)

*****************************************************************
Pirating Cable TV
Part 2
*****************************************************************

Today we will discuss over the air pay TV scrambling. This is
used widely in many areas without cable, and all of the systems
in use use essentially the same system, that of SSAVI scrambling.

Discussion of SSAVI scrambling: SSAVI stands for Suppressed Sync,
Audio Video inversion. This method of encoding video
transmissions was developed by the Zenith Radio Corporation, who
manufactures the vast majority of legal unscramblers used today
with this method. Suffice to say, SSAVI is the Anti-Christ of
cable pirates. The system involves several less sophisticated
methods combined to produce a severely scrambled signal which is
very difficult to decode without the proper hardware. (ie, a REAL
box.) It is illustrated by the name:

Suppressed Sync:

This is the method discussed in part 1 of this series, only
worse. The sync portion of the signal is not transmitted on
an audio subcarrier, but in lines 1-14 of the picture
information which are not seen on the screen. Hence, the box
must be able to isolate the first 14 lines of video and
extract the information from them.

Audio:

The audio is transmitted on a subcarrier in a similar
fashion as the sync pulses in part 1. If you will remember,
the audio was normal in the suppressed sync method.

Video inversion:

The video signal is randomly inverted at the scrambling
stage, resulting in a negative picture when the signal is
inverted. (yes, like a camera negative.) The indicator for
whether the upcoming frame of video will be inverted is also
sent in the first 14 lines of video, allowing the box to
begin inverting the signal before you see it. All of these
little bits of evilness exist independently of each other.
the signal may have all, none, or any combination of these
things. because of this, the box must be very intelligent.
Also, because the box is used so widely, it must have a
tuner, allowing your local transmitter to select what
channel they are using by tuning the box before they give it
to you. all this makes for a real fun time when you go to
unscramble your signal.

Box Theory:

The suppressed sync signal is transferred from the first few
lines of video transmitted in the first few lines of video,
which, incidentally, are transmitted normally. The box
'sees' these 14 normal sync pulses, and calibrates itself to
reproduce these sync pulses for the rest of the frame of
video. It then inserts these pulses where they are needed in
the signal to produce a normal picture; this recalibration
every frame is necessary, though. Sync pulses occur over 500
times every second, and if the clock were not constantly
revamped, it could get out of sync (Oh God!) with itself.
Audio:

The audio is transmitted on a subcarrier deviated about 15
kHz. All the box does to the audio is retransmit the audio
on the proper frequency.

Video inversion:

The video signal is randomly inverted, but the mode
(inverted vs. normal) can only be switched between frames,
not between fields, making the job of detection and re-
inversion slightly easier.
The box looks at a portion of a line (line 2, I think) and
based on the logic level at a certain point in this line of
video, the box reroutes the signal through an operational
amplifier's inverting input. As a result, a signal received
inverted is now correct, and a frame of video 'seen' as
normal is not routed through the invertor, and sent straight
to the R.F.modulator, which retransmits the corrected signal
to the TV set, usually on channel 3.

Physical description of the Zenith SSAVI decoder:

The box is approx. 11" by 7", and about 2.5" tall, including
rubber feet. It has a round vertical travel pushbutton
switch in the rear left top corner, and in a small metal
label on the top center of the box is engraved Zenith
SSAVI-1. About 1.5" by .75". There are 3 female 'F'
connectors on the left rear, and a 3 pin power connector on
the bottom right rear. The case is brown, with a wood
grained strip running around the horizontal center. A rather
formidable device.

Some interesting features of the SSAVI system:

When used by the Pay-TV companies, (cough cough), because of
the extreme to which the scrambling of the signal is taken,
the system provides more security against the casual
basement cable wizard than any of the other systems in use
today, save those now being implemented by various satellite
transmitters.

These are really mean:

Digital Video transcription, fluctuating transmission
frequency, and other fun stuff.
But that is another file, coming later. In addition to the
complexity of the scrambling, each box is given its own
internal ID number, allowing each box to be addressed by the
transmitter and shut off in the event a customer does not
pay his bill. In addition, each box contains a firmware code
which is constantly being compared to that transmitted by
the station. Hence, a stolen box will not work in another
city, where it cannot be turned off by the normal method due
to the fact that some one may already be using a box
containing the same security code. There are several more
codes stored in the box:
Those which determine the services to which a subscriber is
entitled. (such as optional sporting events, nite life,
etc.) these codes are stored in a volatile memory powered by
a rechargeable battery, to allow reprogramming from the
station. This also means that if the box is stolen and/or
left un-powered for several days, the battery will run down
and the authorization codes will be lost.

Well, as usual, where there is security, there will be security
breakers, and this is no exception. Talk to these people about
getting your own SSAVI box:

Video Electronics
3083 Forest Glade DR.
Windsor, Ontario N8R 1W6
Phone: 519 944 6443

According to them, the box also works with SSAVI cable systems.
This is the REAL thing, made by Zenith. Why do you think you have
to get it through Canada?

Channels these people guarantee the SSAVI box to work on: Ann
Arbor 31, Baltimore 54, Wash. D.C. 50, Chicago 66, Dallas 27,
Minneapolis St Paul 23, San Jose 48, St. Louis 30, Tulsa 41,
Boston 27.

Well, there you have it. they want $130 for the box, and compared
with a $21/month fee it will pay for itself in 6 months. Have a
good time.
**************************************************************
Call: K.A.O.S. :215 465 3593
For questions, I can be reached at these (among others) boards.

-=>later<=-

*****************************************************************

Pirating Cable T.V.
#3
***Cable Converters***
*****************************************************************

First, a plea. I need a recipe for Nitrous Oxide.
(laughing gas.) if anyone knows where I can get one, or has a
file on "how to", !please! contact me at K.A.O.S. 215- 465-3593,
or leave it on a few of the more popular ae lines.
thank you.

*****************************************************************

Cable Converters - Required Knowledge.:

1. Most scrambled cable channels are transmitted either between
channel 13 and channel 14 ('mid-band' transmitting) or below
channel 2 'super-band' transmitting. Thus, if you receive
the cut rate bottom of the line cable service (such as the 3
networks and a few community stations) you may never even
get a chance to see the scrambled channels, let alone try to
unscramble them. Hence, we usher in the <>.
these are nothing new or illegal, mind you; they can be
purchased at radio shack. They were originally intended for
the video cassette recorder owner (that is, the ones that
are sold on the open market.) His rented cable converter and
unscrambler, usually combined in the same TV top box, were
busy faithfully unscrambling and converting to channel 3 the
program he was currently watching. However, if he wanted to
tape something on an !un!scrambled channel that was
transmitted in the mid-band or super-band mode, he was up
the creek, because he had no way to get the signal down to a
frequency his TV or VCR could receive. but if he hooked up
his little radio shack converter, presto! he was set. (Newer
VCR,s come cable ready - but not premium cable ready
unfortunately!)

2. Now is a good time to make clear an important point. Cable
converters do !not! unscramble a scrambled signal, they
merely move it to a frequency the TV / unscrambler / VCR /
whatever, can get a hold of it. There is lots of space
between channels 13 and 14 - it is the dividing line between
VHF and UHF. Here are places in there your TV just can't get
to.
3. Here comes another point: Those of you with 'cable ready'
TV,s think you're home free now, eh? no. While a cable
ready TV will let you view any mid and super-band channels
that you may unknowingly receive, the scrambled ones are
still scrambled. So what do you need now? an unscrambler, of
course.

*****************************************************************

4. It may be necessary to explain what is actually happening in
your boxes that you rent from the cable Co. thus: ----- if
you have bothered to pay extra for any scrambled channels,
you are given an unscrambler and converter by the cable Co.
for which you gladly pay rent in addition to your cable fee.
This is usually a brown box that comes in several styles,
expounded upon below:

Digital with remote:
A small box upon your TV, with a digital display of the
channel you are watching. You have a trusty remote, and zap
away at will.

Knob Style:
A box or non-wireless remote with a large knob on it. It, of
course, selects what channel you are watching.

Switchboard Style:
A 9" x 5" (or so) board with several 3 position vertically
moving switches. What the hell do these do? you'll never
guess.

The kind without any switches:
(Now how will I operate my digital watch?) this is called a
block converter. More on these later.

*****************************************************************

What is going on:
Ahhh, the good part. What happens here is this: No matter
what system you have (except for the last - ignore that for
now.) In some way you select a channel; the cable converter
runs off, finds this channel, and yanks it down to channel 3
(or 2, or 4, whatever your cable co. uses.) where your TV is
waiting for it. (yes, that's why you put your TV on the
same channel and change channels with the knob, remote, or
whatever.) Now, if it's a scrambled channel, and you are
authorized to receive it, the signal is rerouted through a
small un-scrambler. (a note: cable scrambling methods are
piddly little hindrances; for a real bitch of a scrambler
see the SSAVI system, explained in part 2.) the signal is
again spat out at channel 3, and your TV glows happily
away, displaying your mid or super-band channel.

5. At this point, a question may by nudging around your
temporal lobes now. Something along the lines of "How do I
get cable TV without paying for it, dammit??" well, here we
go. you look up that place I mentioned in part II. (address
& phone# at end) just fork over your $30 (or someone else's
credit card) and get one of these nifty little
unscramblers. Now, mind you, the cable Co. wants it's
(your?) money more than you think, and will be rather upset
if they find you doing any of this stuff, so take care.

Here's how to hook up your unscrambler:

First, adjust the unscrambler to receive the channel your TV
is set on to receive a signal from the cable box. Next, send
the output of the real box to the unscrambler, and the
output of the unscrambler to the TV. you're all set! Just
sit back and watch those porn flicks pour in.

6. If you change channels with your TV set, and you don't have
a box, get a cable converter and an unscrambler. Your
service is too basic to rate a converter, so you have to get
one. Just make sure it has some sort of channel selector on
it - all selected channels must be output on the same
channel so the unscrambler can unscramble them. Sorry.

*****************************************************************

7. How to make this much easier on yourself: There is a much
easier way to do all of this stuff, but you sacrifice ease
for legality. That is, even though what you would have done
if I wasn't telling you this was illegal, this is more
illegal. But let's be realistic does anyone give a damn of
any size whatsoever? No of course not.

Therefore:

Beating the cable Co. at their own game is easier than you
would think. Firstly, call up your cable Co.'s customer (hee
hee) service number, and tell them what optional channels
you currently subscribe to, and ask them if you would have
to get a new box if you wanted to add some channels. chances
are they will say no, because most of the boxes have a small
computer in them which can be told over the cable what you
are authorized to receive, (neat, huh?).
This is the same computer which decides whether the channel
you want to watch gets sent to the unscrambler portion of
the box or not. So if they say no, you're in good shape. If
they say yes, you are in a little bit better shape than if
they say no.
If they say no, this means they change your authorizations
inside the box by changing hardware - that is, connecting
sets of wires.

How to change your authorizations:

(yay) First, the hardware boxes - they're easier. According
to some people i've talked to, the cable companies get
highly (very) pissed off if you play with their boxes, so
you have to get hold of one they don't know you have -
remember, they will want your rented box back when you move
and will get unhappy if you have been monkeying with it.
Getting a box: a). Steal one. b). Say somebody stole yours,
your dog ate it, or whatever. c). Find some unethical person
(druggie) who will sell his for a few bucks.

Changing a hardware box:

1. Open the box without destroying it. This can be a real
challenge sometimes. While at the Sheraton Washington (Wash,
D.C.) attending the model UN last year, I stole one from
someone's room and tried to get it apart for about an hour
so we could watch the flicks that night - I gave up, got
drunk, and threw it out of a window - no, it didn't break.
(yes, incidentally, for any - one in the Wash, D.C. area,
there is one in every room of the Sheraton Washington. Good
point - ritzy hotels are great places to get those boxes.)

2. Look for a small set of sockets, such as an integrated
circuit socket without a chip in it. It will have wires in
it instead. If you can't find one of those, look for a dip
switch - these are the same size as an integrated circuit,
fit in an IC socket, and have the same number of switches on
it as pins on one side of the IC socket.

3. Try to correspond the wires or the positions of the
switches with the channels you pay for. These wires or
switches are how the box is programmed - try turning all of
the switches on, and putting all of the wires in, and see if
you get more channels. Conversely, try removing wires and
turning switches off.

*****************************************************************

Cable programmed boxes: -----------------------

These are a bit more difficult. You have to try to separate
the three sections - computer, receiver(converter) and
unscrambler. When you isolate the computer section, just
bypass it completely. Find the output of the converter and
the input of the unscrambler and just hook them together. As
you can probably see, this just does not permit the computer
to have a say in what gets unscrambled - incidentally, this
will work for the hardware boxes, but it is usually pretty
easy to find the little wiring panel/switchboard and you do
not have to figure out what is what inside the unscrambler.

*****************************************************************

Well, I hope this helps, If you desperately need to ask a
question, you can get me at:
K.A.O.S 215 465 3593 or the church at 215 386 0350 pw ataru and I
will be glad to answer.

*****************************************************************

Here's the address I promised:

unscramblers

Warning: this unscrambler will not work with those channels that
make that obnoxious beeping noise. This is a gated sync
unscrambler. To find out if this will work in your area, get that
good 'ol customer service number and call and ask if they use
suppressed horizontal sync as their scrambling method. Yes, they
will tell you!.

J&W Electronics, Inc.
Mansfield, MA.
02048
Phone: 1 800 227 8529 (orders)
617 339 5372 (tech info)

*****************************************************************

Well, thank you for sitting through 350 lines of my ravings. If
you download this, please give it to all. Up with the individual!

*****************************************************************

Now if you'll excuse me, I'm going
to kick back and smoke a Marlboro.

-=> good luck. <=-

*****************************************************************

Additional notes provided by a technically competent but
dissatisfied cable customer:

1. Why do I have to pay $20 per month for the basic
service of network channels and STILL watch more
advertisements (usually for HBO)???

2. When I do take out a mortgage for the premium channels
I find: a). The programming is too late. b). I've seen all
the films before. c). The network channels usually carry
them a fortnight later.

3. It also seems to me that over the air broadcasts are
being reduced in favor of cable; therefore I'm at the mercy
of the cable companies if I'm to get ANY decent reception.

4. Why should I see ugly great cable assemblies draped
around the country-side? What's wrong with the ground or at
least fiber optic?.

5. Basic infringement of my constitutional rights to do
what the hell I like with 'over the air' reception (eg.
satellite HBO) as long as I don't upset my neighbors.

6. Why don't cable convertors and descramblers come with
separate video and audio outputs. Why go to all the trouble
of putting it back on channel 3 or 4, if you have separate
video inputs to your TV equipment. For that matter why not
go the whole hog and have separate R G B and sync?. It would
be nice if someone (or company) sold a fancy tuner that did
all this stuff including a video processing circuit to take
care of on screen programming and of course by no means
least; reconstituting the messed up signal!.

7. Why not have a user interface box at the entry to your
home so that you can cable up as many TV,s as you want?.

Additional info:

New York/ Westchester area CableVision uses Jerrold 7000
Impulse addressable decoders (which mean they reprogram them
from their computer to enable reception). Actually if you
unpower one of these boxes after the setup info. is lost due
to the battery becoming discharged; it reverts to the prevue
channel irrespective of the channel you try to select. After
repowering and waiting some period (sometimes days if your
cable company are slow) it re be re-activated . Thus I guess
the device reverts to the prevue channel if it is used
outside of the cable company's area.

I would be grateful if anybody has any other info. to add,
such as which specific method is used in this area

Cable descram kit

2007-11-20T20:58:00.001-08:00

GATED PLUSE CABE T.V. DESCRAMBLERS. (WILL DESCRAMBLE YOUR PAY MOVE CHANNELS.)

THE KIT INCLUDES ALL THE ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS TO MAKE THE THING WORK *GREAT!!*

YOU HAVE TO BUILD IT, YOU NEED A 15-25 WATT SOLDER IRON, SOLDER (RESION CORE)
SMALL WIRE CUTTERS, AND A GENERAL UNDERSTANDING OF HOW TO SOLDER WELL.

THE KIT IS ONLY $79.95 AND WILL WORK ON MOST CABLE CO. SYSTEMS.

####################### #######################
WILL WORK ON... WILL NOT WORK ON

CENTEL CABLE ROCKFORD CABLE CO.
JONE INERCABLE AMERICAN CABLE CO.
U.S.CABLE SYSTEMS
AND MANY MANY MORE

IF YOU WANT A CABLE DESCRAMBLE KIT PLEASE SEND $79.95 IN MONEY ORDER OR CERTIFIED CHECK TO...

W.S.S.
519 EAST HAWLEY STREET
MUNDELEIN,IL 60060

FOR MORE INFO OR C.O.D. ORDERS PLEASE CALL 312-315-2136

MYSELF OR WEST SHORE SECURITY , IS NOT SUGGESTING OR TELLING YOU IT,S O.K.
TO RECEIVE PREMIUM MOVIE CHANNELS. IT IS UNLAWFUL TO RECDIVE PAY MOVIE CHANNELS
WITHOUT PAYING FOR THEM THRU YOU LOCAL CABLE CO.
###############################################################################

THIS KIT IS SOLD FOR EXPERIMENT USE ONLY AND IS NOT INTENDED FOR CHEATING THE
CABLE COMPANYS... USE AT OWN RISK!!!! WE ARE NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR MISUSE OF THIS KIT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Descrambler for cable box

2007-11-20T20:56:00.000-08:00

Let's have a quick show of hands of everybody out there who has
cable TV. Okay, now, everybody who actually their
reception, keep your hands up. Not many, are there? That's what I
thought.

Most videophiles I know have a love-hate relationship with cable
TV: they the selection of channels and the convenience, but
they the mediocre picture quality, the rolling lines, the
static, and the periodic cable outages that only seem to come up
when you're trying to record the last showing of your all-time
favorite film from pay TV.

Can anything be done to improve the quality of cable TV?
Plenty...but unfortunately, most of it has to be done at the
end>, which is the central receiving office of the cable company.
Without a good signal to begin with, the best-quality cable
amplifiers and wires in the world can't bring a decent picture
into your home. In addition, many cable companies operate under-
less-than optimum budget conditions, preventing them from using
state-of-the-art gear, for everything from inadequate line
amplifiers on the telephone pole to shoddy channel-selector boxes
in your home.

There are a couple of things you can look for to help the cable
repairman solve the usual problems: perhaps the biggest is
or video noise, which is generally caused by inadequate signal
levels. Most experts advise that an average tuner needs at least
.1 millivolt of signal to produce an acceptable picture. A little
more, like around .3 mV, is even better. Cable TV companies
routinely use amplifiers in their lines placed at regular
intervals so that people far away from their headquarters will
get reception just as good as the people who live
a block from the head end.

If a little signal is good, then a lot of signal must be even
better, right? Wrong. In VHF/UHF transmissions through cable, the
biggest loss is with the high frequencies, especially channels 25
and up. The cable company's amplifiers use special "tilt"
equalization to help peak these frequencies, which helps reduce
the loss over a long distance. If the cable amps are improperly
adjusted, the lowband channels (2-13) suffer, resulting in a lot
of ghosting and intercarrier interference. The latter is the
typical "buzzing" you hear when bright titles pop on the screen.
Another problem is "tearing," when bright signals streak or smear
from one side of the screen to the other.

You can cut back on the cable line's signal with a inexpensive
device called an . This is an in-line metal barrel
that screws directly between your cable and the tuner input. An
attenuator works by reducing signal strength with an electrical
filter, sort of like using an adjustable spray nozzle on a garden
hose. Attenuators are rated in decibels (dB), and range from as
little as 5 dB all the way to 20 dB and up -- the higher the
number, the more severe the effect. Sometimes, just
the signal to several TV sets or VCRs will help cut down the
signal to a proper level, too, using a multi-output RF splitter,
available for about $20 from Radio Shack and other companies.

If your cable pictures are marred by snow and ghosts, you've
probably got the opposite problem: signals. Radio Shack,
Recoton and several other accessory companies make consumer
VHF/UHF signal amplifiers which can help strengthen weak cable
signals. But it's easy to misadjust these amps and create some of
the problems mentioned above. Experiment carefully, and make sure
the reception is clean on channels to determine the best
setting for your system. This is especially important when
connecting more than two or three devices to one cable signal.

Another common cable TV problem is , which looks
like large horizontal bars rolling through the picture. Usually,
these roll rather slowly, which are a sign of 60 Hz hum (the same
frequency as AC current). Hum in cable systems like this happens
when your house current is grounded differently than the cable
system's current. This visual hum is often accompanied by low-
frequency hum or buzzing in the audio, and is particularly
annoying when heard through full-range speakers.

One solution for this common cable ailment is the , which you can make yourself for less than $5.00.
This fix consists of two 75-ohm to 300-ohm transformers, also
known as "baluns," which are included free with virtually every
VCR to help connect them to older TV sets with 300-ohm jacks. To
make this device, simply connect the four 300-ohm leads together
so that the round 75 ohm terminals are open. The cable TV signal
goes into one end, and the other end goes to your VCR or TV set.
Voila: the hum is gone, since this double-transformer breaks the
cable's ground and isolates it.

With my own local cable signal, I use Sony's EAC-25 [shown in the
photo], which neatly fits a variety of conventional baluns. The
only drawback with this fix is that you'll lose about 3 dB of
signal, which may introduce a small amount of snow in the picture
if your signal is weak to begin with. Another potential problem is
that the 300 ohm wires may pickup stray transmissions in your
area, which means that strong local stations may affect similarly-
numbered channels on the cable. But that's a small price to pay,
considering the immense improvement for the rest of the stations.

Some cheap baluns that don't use transformers may not fix the hum
problem, but there is a company called Gemini Electronics who
manufacturers a direct 75 to 75 ohm "ground breaker" called the
model #CV89. Their address is Gemini Industries, Inc., 215 Entin
Road, Clifton, New Jersey 07014. This device is a more
attractively packaged and is virtually guaranteed to get rid of
the hum from all but the worse cable systems, with a little less
signal loss than the above method.

And there's one more device you can use to get better cable
quality: the telephone. If you're having severe cable reception
problems, make sure your cable company and local utilities are
aware of the situation. Sometimes, a call to the chief engineer of
your local cable company can work miracles. Just as a squeaky
wheel gets the grease, even the best cable TV company in the world
can't fix problems they don't know about.

[Special thanks to reader Bob Katz of New York, NY for providing
some of the background information for this column.]

# # # # # # # # # #

(Portions of the above appeared in the October '88 issue of VIDEO
REVIEW magazine.)

Get free cable

2007-11-20T20:55:00.000-08:00

PAY TV DECODER PLANS:
--------------------
Due to different scrambling systems, you might fit neccesary to change
the range and values of the variable capacitator.

MATERIALS REQUIRED:
--------------
1 Radio Shack mini project box (#270-235)
1 1/4 watt resistor, 2.2k 2.4k ohm (R #71135)
1 75pf - 100pf variable capacitor (Very hard to find!)
2 F61a chassis type coaxialconectrs RS #278-212)
12" No. 12 solid copper wire
12" RS59 coaxial cable

INSTRUCTIONS:
----------
1> Dar a length of No. 12 gauge solid copper wire and twist around a 3/8"
nail or rod to fom a cil of9 turs. Elongate coil to a length of 1 1/2" and form right angle bends on each end.

> Soler thevariabe capacitor to the coil. It doesn't matter where, it DIAGRAM:
still does the sme job. The bet placefor it is in the center with the
adjustment screw facing upard.

Note: Whe it come time toplace col in box, the coil must be insulated from
grounding. This can be done byglueing apiece of ubber to he bottom of the
box, and securing the coil to it.

3> Solder 2 piecs of coppe wire at pints 2 1/2turns from ends of coil and
solder to coaxial chassis connectors, binging lead through hoes in chasss box. Use as little wire as possible.

4> Solder resistor tocenter of col and groundother end tochassis box,
using solder lug and small screw.

5>
Drill 1/2" diamete hold in miniox cover to prmit adjustment of the
variable capacitor from the outside Inspect for istakes and plce cover
on an tighten securely.

6> Place device in line with exising cable on eiher side of theconverter
box ad connect tv set with the short piece of RS59 coaxia cable. Set tv et
to HBE channe.

7> Using a LASTIC screwdriver, adjust the variable capacitoruntil picture
tuns in. ENJOY!!!!! Themini box
-------------------------------------
| |
| coil |
| \ |
| / |
| \---cpper wire--[[[[[ F1a connector (cable i)
| 2.2k .25w / |
ground |---------------## (var. apacitor |
| resistor \
| /---copper wire--[[[[ F16a connector (cale out)
| \ |
| |
| coil |
| |
------------------------------------

Getting HBO or The Playboy Channel for free

2007-11-20T20:54:00.000-08:00

This is a method just learned on how to
get HBO or Playboy channel for free. The only requriments is a Viacom
(whoops) is a Scientific Atlanta Cable hook up with remote. I think the
are avaible on request from Viacom or somthing like 2 bucks a month.
Well anyways if its the same the buttons on the remote should be PROG
RCL AUTH Off arrows and a numeric keypad. now all you do is first turn
to the channel after the one you want selected. then on the reciving box
hold down the off and down arrow key together. On the box the led
display should be wacked but the channel should remain the same. Now
while holding the buttons down push the down arrow on the remote and the
channel should come in unscrambled. Cute trick

Cracking School Networks

2007-11-20T05:02:00.002-08:00

We all start somewhere. Some of us start collecting outdated programs in hopes of being able to 'hack' anything with the click of a mouse. Others start in the 'hacker' rooms, asking questions about every little thing, without even bothering to try a search engine. In writing this article I am assuming that you are capable of teaching yourself. That you can look up things for yourself. I am also assuming that you have already started your search for knowledge, and at this point ready. I am also assuming that you have a better reason for cracking into your school's network than to change your grades. Maybe I am just assuming too much :). School networks are very ideal for beginners. You can work your way from the inside, default installations are very popular with schools, teachers can be unbelievably ignorant, and school sucks, so why not? Let's begin....

Section 1: Accessing the Shared Network

Computer class (if you have one) is of course a good place to start. Your computer class will undoubtedly use a windows operating system (not saying this is always the case, but usually...) so let's start from there. Usually these computers have two rights, user and administrator rights. So our first goal here is to jump from user(the privileges you currently have) to administrator privileges. If the operating system is Windows 9.x then we will look for the *.pwl file for the administrator account. This will be labeled according to the admin username. You'll find this in the windows directory. Just sneak in a floppy disk during class and copy the file to the floppy. Then take the file home and use a pwl cracker to crack the file (if you use brute force, make the settings lower case letters with 1-10 characters, but I'd suggest first trying a dictionary crack. Just collect yourself a few word lists). It'll take a while to crack the password so you will have to be patient. If the operating system is Windows XP then that just makes it even easier. Just grab a Windows 2k CD (download one off kazaa or overnet, if you don't have a copy) and sneak it into class. Place the CD in and boot up the computer.Then start the Win2k Recovery Console, which is a troubleshooting program. This will allow you to operate as administrator without even having to bother with the password. So now that you have administrator privileges go to "Network Neighborhood" and take a look through the network. Copy a few addresses (anything that seems interesting), and if the computers used are Win9.x, when you go home you can load up your internet browser and type "file://[target address]" to gain access. This is network access, but not the kind that will allow you to change your grades (unless the software the teachers use for accessing/modifying/deleting student records happens to be installed on the computer, and the password just conveniently happens to be the same password that the teacher uses on the windows administration account....which is not entirely far fetched). If the computer you are using is Win2k (Windows 2000) then you can try going to the site below to get a tool to crack the account....

http://www.lostpassword.com/windows-xp-2000-nt.htm (which also works for nt and xp)

p.s: If you don't have a computer class, then you can try the computers at the library.

Section 2: Network Exploitation

Now let's talk network operating systems (NOSs). If your school uses Windows workgroups as a NOS, then the method described above would be your method in. Most likely, if the NOS is not windows workgroups, then it is Novell Netware. So now lets get into novell. Novell Netware is a server-based operating system for networks. Novell runs off a version of DOS called dr-dos (also known as Caldera DOS, since it was created by Caldera Systems Inc). It also runs off a protocol called IPX/SPX (Internetwork Packet eXchange/Sequenced Packet eXchange), which is very TCP/IP compatible (the later versions of novell run off a protocol based off ipx/spx known as NCP, Netware Core Protocol). Now in novell netware there are four different kind of rights given. There is user which gives access to //public and some other basic files. There is superuser, which is the access given to teachers. With this access they can view and delete student accounts whenever neccessary, but they can not delete, create, or change accounts. There is supervisor, which is the access administrators give themselves to work off of. And finally there is console, which is the highest rights one could gain on a novell network. Now since there have already been many articles written on novell network infiltration (and I'm in a lazy mood) I am now going to point you in the direction of articles that I had posted up from a previous article on a very similar subject (exactly the same subject actually, but targetted at a specific school network)...

Novell Netware v1.x-4.x: http://www.geocities.com/anti_dcss/novell_faq.zip

Novell Netware v3.12-4.x: http://www.geocities.com/anti_dcss/novzero.zip

Novell Netware v5.x: http://www.geocities.com/anti_dcss/hack_novell.zip

There is also AppleTalk, which may be implemented in order to integrate the Macintosh computers with the rest of the network, but it isn't really neccessary to exploit AppleTalk so I won't get into it.

Now let's get into exploiting the network from the outside. If your school has a website, resolve the ip of the site and scan the network for other servers (i.e. open up a scanner and scan xxx.xxx.xxx.1-xxx.xxx.xxx.254). Use LANguard if you are running windows. The router will usually be *.1. Now if you scan this you will find either/both telnet (23) or snmp (161). If telnet is open then you can exploit the fact that all telnet sessions are unencrypted by using a tool like either Juggernaut or Hunt to hijack a session to sniff out sensitive information (like passwords of course). SNMP is protected by community strings, but in many cases these are set as default, which is "private". If not you can use a community string brute force program (for example SolarWinds) to break into the router. Once inside the router, you can easily use the access to bridge into the rest of the network. There will also be other servers you can try gaining access to bridge into the network. Web servers (port 80) are not important(unless you want to deface them), but ftp and pop3 servers can be cracked and used to bridge into the network. For ftp servers you can run network scanners to find vulnerabilities, and for pop3 servers you can look up scripts and see what might work (depends on the operating system the server is installed on). You need to organize the way you proceed with this crack however. Don't find and exploit vulnerabilities in the same night. Spread it out. Follow these three steps...Research, Plan, and Execute. This is no one day job. You need to be very patient or you will be caught. You also need to do this as late as possible (two or three o' clock in the morning is usually a safe time). Also you will want to bounce off proxies as much as possible. Better yet, for the tools you don't either have to compile or install, run them from the current location instead of off your computer. Most of the other tools needed should allow you to bounce off proxies/wingates. Remember, whether you are breaking in from the outside or the inside, to be cautious. Being paranoid is not a bad thing. After all, what you are doing IS against the law. Good luck ;).

Another Thing: If the teachers at your school use a program called TSIS to manage student records, then usually there will also be a TSIS remote login server on the network. Using a scanner you should be able to pick up on this. The address is usually...

http://tsis.(county name).k12.(state initials).us

If you happen to crack one of the teacher accounts, you can use this to change your grades from the comfort of your own home (not that I'm supporting such activities =) ).

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

Make any phone a pay phone

2007-11-20T05:02:00.001-08:00

$$$$$$$$$$-=>MAKING YOUR PHONE<=-$$$$$$
$$$$$$$$$$-=>INTO A CHEESEBOX <=-$$$$$$

/=\TYPED BY:SIR KNIGHT/=\

A CHEESEBOX(NAMED FOR THE TYPE
OF BOX THE FIRST ONE WAS FOUND IN)IS A
TYPE OF BOX WHICH WILL, IN EFFECT, MAKE
YOUR TELEPHONE A PAY-PHONE.....THIS IS
A SIMPLE, MODERNIZED, AND EASY WAY OF
DOING IT....

INSIDE INFO:THESE WERE FIRST USED
BY BOOKIES MANY YEARS AGO AS A WAY OF
MAKING CALLS TO PEOPLE WITHOUT BEING
CALLED BY THE COPS OR HAVING THEIR
NUMBERS TRACED AND/OR TAPPED......

HOW TO MAKE A MODERN CHEESE BOX

INGREDIENTS:
------------

1 CALL FORWARDING SERVICE ON THE
LINE

1 SET OF RED BOX TONES

THE NUMBER TO YOUR PREFIX'S INTER-
CEPT OPERATOR(DO SOME SCANNING FOR
THIS ONE)

HOW TO:
-------

AFTER YOU FIND THE NUMBER TO
THE INTERCEPT OPERATOR IN YOUR PREFIX,
USE YOUR CALL-FORWARDING AND FORWARD
ALL CALLS TO HER...THIS WILL MAKE YOUR
PHONE STAY OFF THE HOOK (ACTUALLY, NOW
IT WAITS FOR A QUARTER TO BE DROPPED
IN)...YOU NOW HAVE A CHEESE BOX...
IN ORDER TO CALL OUT ON THIS LINE:YOU
MUST USE YOUR RED BOX TONES AND GENER-
ATE THE QUARTER DROPPING IN...THEN,YOU
CAN MAKE PHONE CALLS TO PEOPLE...AS FAR
AS I KNOW, THIS IS FAIRLY SAFE, AND
THEY DO NOT CHECK MUCH...ALTHOUGH I
AM NOT SURE, I THINK YOU CAN EVEN MAKE
CREDIT-CARD CALLS FROM A CHEESEBOX
PHONE AND NOT GET TRACED...

ENJOY, AND DON'T GET CAUGHT

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

What you can do to a pay phone (get money)

2007-11-20T05:00:00.000-08:00

THE ABC'S OF PAYPHONES PART 1

The information presented in this file is for entertainment purposes
only. The authors of this file take no responsibiltiy for any of its
contents.

The following text file is for AT&T & GTE payphones from 1982-1985. some
things are different on gte phones, so additions are included for them.

Section 1:The coin slot

For every 5 cents you put in a phone, a sound is made. After you put
the coins in the slot, they pass through a totalizer which counts them.
They then collect in a hopper. To empty out the hopper, all you have to
do is activate the coin relay. Payphones sometimes hold $100 or more.
To activate the relay place 5 cents in the phone. Stick a magnet up the
coin slot about 5 inches. Now remove the front panel of the phone. You
will see a series of wires. Cut the red and green wires. Now in the
front of the panel you will see three screws. Touch the green wire to
the third screw. Better have a hat ready, because alot of change is
gonna come flooding out. Isn't this fun?

Section 2:free credits
If you have a friend in germany you need to call this sections for you.
One of the cheap things about pay phones is they depend on tones to tell
them you inserted money. Well if you have a red box these tones are
easily duplicated, but i want to show you how do it without boxes in
this file. Now Some thing you need are...
A set of screwdrivers. You will need both philips and flathead. Now
open the front panel of the phone and cut the red and green wires. Take
the cover off the top of the phone and insert 5 cents. You should hear
nothing. Find a green wire coming from the coin slot down to the
hopper. Disconnect that wire. Now take off the case and you will see a
small switch. Move the switch. This sets the totalizer backwards 1.
Now put the hopper cover back on and reconnect the wire. Go back to the
front panel. Feel to the right of the two screws. You should feel 4
jumpers. 1 of the jumpers should be disconnected. Reconnect it. Now
cut the top jumper. You should hear a loud pop. Now touch the green
wire to the second screw. You will hear the sound of twenty five cents
being inserted. You now have 30 cents credit. Repeat as many times as
you need. Now reconnect the green wire and dial your number.
GTE Notes:
The green wire will be white. The red one will be blue. The totalizer
is located at the bottem of the front panel.

In part 2 we will show you how to take the payphone apart, and how to
take one home.

This is one of MANY Great MYSTERY Notes at:

The Mystery Zone
(312) 231-6183

THE ABC'S OF PAYPHONES PART 2.

The information presented in this file is presented for entertainment
purposes only. The authors of this file take no responsibility for any
of its contents.

Section 1:how to open a payphone
An Atlantic Bell payphone is a heavily armored device. It is designed
to withstand attempted theft and damage. But as we found out in part 1,
we don't need to get through all the armor to phreak it. All we need to
do is get to the wiring which is all located behind 3 easy to remove
panels. All that holds the front panel on is 3 or 4 bolts. Just apply
sulfuric acid and in ten minutes or less they will come right out.
While you are waiting remove the other panels. The top panel is held on
by two tight nuts. A good pair of pliars will remove them. Now the
back panel is the hardest to remove. It is held together by a semi-
permanent solution. On the newer AT&T credit and pay phones, an alarm
goes off when the back panel is removed. The circuitry for it is
located in the top panel. Look for a round box with 4 wires coming out.
Cut the first and second ones. Now use sulfuric acid, wait ten minutes
and lift it off.
Section 2:How to steal a payphone
Ever wanted to have your own payphone. Its not very hard to steal one.
As a matter of fact, it is easy to rip one out of the wall, but I want
to show you how to take one home intact. Anyone traveling to Toronto
should stop by to see MR. C0SMOS' collection of payphones. He has them
set up and working. Stealing payphones is very dangerous. Much more
than phone boxing. Do not steal more than one from an area. They
sometimes know immediatly when its gone, so get the hell out of there.
The inside of it is heavily armored. If you are taking it for the
money, you will need a full set of philips & flathead screwdrivers,
sulfuric acid, a crowbar, a sledgehammer, bolt cutters, and probably
more. Now you can take it home and pound on it, or you can use the easy
way we showed you in part one.

In part 3 we will show you how to wire it up when you get it home and
alot of other stuff.

This is one of MANY Great MYSTERY Notes at:

The Mystery Zone
(312) 231-6183

THE ABC'S OF PAYPHONES PART 3

The information presented in this file is for entertainment purposes
only. The authors of this file take no responsibility for any of its
contents.

Well our mail boxes having been filling up with questions regarding this
series. We will answer them all in future files.

Ok, now you have your payphone home. What do you do with it. Well, if
you want to make it work, you need to run up a five prong cable from
the phone line in your basement. The outlet in the wall won't work.
Now, a two inch hole at the left front of it. Remove the back panel
(as described in part 1) and disconnect the wires coming out of it.
You will see them coming from silver screws. Disconnect them all. Now
make sure you know which screws they came from.

Now for some explaining. You could just wire it up with the existing
wires, but then it will make tones, so we are going to rewire it.

You will need 10 heavy duty 7 inch wires for the next part.

If you don't want it to accept money, skip this part.

Take the 12 O'clock screw and connect it to the screw at the bottom of
the totalizer. You will have to push it through, then take the top
off, and connect it. Connect the 2 O'clock screw to the green wire on
the silver box. Just cut the green wire from the box and connect them.

Ok, now this is the part that makes them work. Take the silver box
which is hanging loose now (make sure the wires attached already don't
come loose), and attach your 10 wires to the screws on the phone. Now
starting at the left top of the silver box, hook the wires on counter
clockwise starting with 3 O'clock, excluding 12, 2, 2:30, and 4.

Now run the cable up through the bottom, and hook it to the front of the
silver box. It should now work.

Ok, now to answer a question. A MAD! reader wants to know if you could
trip the totalizer using a wire stuck up the coin slot.

MR. C0SMOS answers that it would be very hard because of the bends
involved, and metal in the way. You might be able to if you used a non-
magnetic, very small, bendable rod. Just keep going up, until you
encounter a small lever, then move it. It
would take alot of patience.

Watch for part 4 soon.

This is one of MANY Great MYSTERY Notes at:

The Mystery Zone
(312) 231-6183

The ABC's of Payphones part 4.

MAD!'s most popular series!

Telephone lock.

Rotery payphones dial by having the number roll back to its original
position. It breaks the signal the number of times indicated.
You can achieve the same effect by tapping rapidly on the little button
at the top of the phone (the one you use to hang up with).
Lets say you wanted to call 123-4567. You would tap on the number
once, pause half a second, tap rapidly twice, pause, tap three times
fast, pause, and so on. It takes a little practice to get the numbers
right, but it does work. So much for locked telephones.

OFF HOOK.

Everyone knows the old trick where you would call someone on a payphone,
then walk away and it would stay off the hook till someone hung it up,
or a ma bell repair crew came and hung it up. Well, that doesn't work
anymore. It resets itself within 4-5 minutes. Well we were thinking
wouldn't it be nice if you could wire it so that the payphone wouldn't
hang up if the button was press. What you would be doing is turning it
off. Then the payphone couldn't be hung up. And while we were at it,
we found out how to keep it from reseting. Here's how...
Remove the top cover, and find the totalizer (for complete instructions
on how to do this see ABC's of payphones parts 1 and 2). Now unscrew
the cover of the totalizer and locate the center position where 6-10
wires meet. Clip all these wires. Put
both covers back on. Now open the front panel. Find those main wires
were always using. Now cut the 3rd wire to the right.

Ok what all this does is stop the payphone from reseting, and it turns
off the hang up button.

How to use it. Call someone up, and do the above instructions.

Getting money back.

If a payphone takes your money and won't give it back, but the money is
still in the hopper, heres what you can do. Just dial a 950 number,
such as 950-1044, and it will clear it out.

Endless ringing

This will make a payphone ring and ring. The only way to stop it will
be if a repairman comes out and fixes it.
Open the front of the phone. Now the in the front row of wires go and
clip the first, third, and fourth. Now touch them to each other untill
two of them make the phone ring. Now attach the two top ends and bottom
ends two each other. Take the odd
wire and reconnect it. Now cut the third wire to the right. If the
payphone isn't ringing right now, make sure the receiver is hung up and
touch those wires again. It will now ring. Put the phone together and
walk away.

Remember after every trick to put the phone back together for another
day.