How To Use 0266 Codes

How To Use 0266 Codes

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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
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11/6/89

- Jester's guide to 950-0266's for the new Phreaker -

This is a file I just decided to write , right after a guy
that lives near me, who runs a bbs complained about his
outrageously high phone bill, and being that I use 0266's I
decided that I would TRY to write a text file on how to use
this simple way of phreaking. I have only been phreaking for 2
months, so what Im about to type is done so with the best of
my knowledge.

There are many different types of 950's, but the type I use is
the 950-0266 and I use these because that is what I was taught
with and they seem like a fairly good, and easy way to phreak.
950-0266s are known to have VERY clean lines, so they are
perfect to use with modems.

The basic format for these codes are:
(1) Dial 950-0266
(2) Wait for tone then dial your 7 digit Code
(3) Right after dialing your Code dial your ACN (Area Code
Number)
I.E. if I were to call my friend Joe in Utah, I would do
this...
950-0266 (tone) XXXXXXX8015551234
The X's stand for the 7 digit code

950's have known to be dangerouse, they are on ESS (electronic
switching service) which is a phreaks nightmare. Being that
950's are on the ESS they can, and have been known to trace.
The type of tracing service on 950's can trace in a heart
beat, so there is somewhat a great risk in using these.
* Some precautions about using 950s - Do NOT use the same code
for more then 3 days. Try to use different codes if you have
them i.e. call one board with a code like 2314211 , and then
call the next board with a totally different code. Use these
codes during prime time, to cut the risk of getting caught
down. And use these in moderation, do not get crazy with them.

I hope this file hasnt been to much of a waste of time, I
hope it has offered some help to you in using 950-0266's.

If this file has offered you some kind of assistance, or if
you just hate it, call my VMB (voice mail box) at :
1-800-444-7207 box # 9542
or call my other VMB at :
1-800-444-7212 hit 4 then box 249

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

 

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

A fairly complete list of 10xxx codes for LD compa

A fairly complete list of 10xxx codes for LD compa

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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
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This is the most complete 10xxx (pronounced ten triple ex) table I have been
able to get. Not all of these companies offer originating service in all
locations, and many require an account on their system. Some, like
10214- Tyler Telecom of Tyler, TX, is usable only from eastern Texas.
Others that seem local can be gotten into from the strangest of places.

To use these normally from your home phone, you would dial 10xxx, where 'x'
is the three digit code shown, followed by 1, then the area code and
number desired.

To find out if the service is usable in your area, dial 10xxx-1-700-555-4141.
You will then get one of several responses. The most common is "Doo-Daa-Dee
Your call cannot be completed with that access code." or "That long distance
service is un-available in your area". If the carrier is available
from your switch, you then hear something like "You have reached the AT&T
long distance network. Thank you for choosing AT&T. This message will
not be repeated."

If you find a little known carrier that you might like an account on, look
up the name in the phone book. If it is not there, try dialing 10xxx-0, and
wait for an operator to come on. Ask her for the 800 number so that you
can open an account, and ask her what town she is located in.

If you would like to just guess at an account, dial 10xxx-0-NPA-7D, and listen
for the ka-bong. You must then enter some digits. For AT&T, thats 10 digits
of some ones home phone, and then 4 digits of secret code.

If you just use the carrier from your home phone, many times the bill will
come on your local telco bill; others times,the carrier bills you separately.

Please note the tariff provides that these companies are entitled to receive
your name, address and telephone number from your local telco, even if your
service is non-published. Whether they pass that along to whoever you call
depends on how modern their equipment is. A few make good extenders this way.

001 MidAmerican LD (Republic Telecom)
002 AmeriCall LDC
003 RCI Corporation
007 Tel America
011 Metromedia Long Distance
012 Charter Corporation (Tri-J)
013 Access Services
021 Mercury
022 MCI Telecommunications
023 Texnet
024 Petricca Communications Systems
028 Texnet
030 Valu-Line of Wichita Falls
031 Teltec Saving Communications
033 US Sprint
036 Long Distance Savers
039 Electronic Office Centers of America (EO/Tech)
042 First Phone
044 Allnet Communication Services (LDX, Lexitel)
053 American Network (Starnet)
056 American Satellite
057 Long Distance Satellite
059 COMNET
060 Valu-Line of West Texas
063 COMNET
069 V/COM
070 National Telephone Exchange
080 AMTEL Systems
084 Long Distance Service (LDS)
085 WesTel
088 Satellite Business Systems (MCI)
089 Telephone Systems
090 WesTel
093 Rainbow Communications
095 Southwest Communications
099 AmeriCall
122 RCA Global Communications
137 All America Cables and Radio (ITT)
142 First Phone
146 ARGO Communications
188 Satellite Business Systems
201 PhoneNet
202 ExecuLines
203 Cypress Telecommunications (Cytel)
204 United Telephone Long Distance
206 United Telephone Long Distance
211 RCI
212 Call US
213 Long Distance Telephone Savers
214 Tyler Telecom
215 Star Tel of Abilene
217 Call US
219 Call USA
220 Western Union Telegraph
222 MCI Telecommunications (SBS)
223 Cable & Wireless Communication (TDX)
224 American Communications
227 ATH Communications (Call America)
229 Bay Communications
232 Superior Telecom
233 Delta Communications
234 AC Teleconnect (Alternative Communication)
237 Inter-Comm Telephone
239 Woof Communications (ACT)
241 American Long Lines
242 Choice Information Systems
244 Automated Communications
245 Taconic Long Distance Service
250 Dial-Net
252 Long Distance/USA
253 Litel Telecommunications
255 All-State Communications
256 American Sharecom
260 Advanced Communications Systems
263 Com Systems (Sun Dial Communications)
268 Compute-A-Call
276 CP National (American Network, Starnet)
284 American Telenet
286 Clark Telecommunications
287 ATS Communications
288 AT&T Communications
298 Thriftline
302 Austin Bestline
303 MidAmerican LD (Republic Telecom)
311 SaveNet (American Network, Starnet)
318 Long Distance Savers
321 Southland Systems
322 American Sharecom
324 First Communication
331 Texustel
333 US Sprint
336 Florida Digital Network
338 Midco Communications
339 Communication Cable Laying
343 Communication Cable Laying
345 AC Teleconnect (Alternative Communication)
350 Dial-Net
355 US Link
357 Manitowoc Long Distance Service
362 Electronic Office Centers of America (EO/Tech)
363 Tel-Toll (Econ-O-Dial of Bishop)
369 American Satellite
373 Econo-Line Waco
375 Wertern Union Telegraph
385 The Switchboard
393 Execulines of Florida
400 American Sharecom
404 MidAmerican LD (Republic Telecom)
412 Penn Telecom
428 Inter-Comm Telephone
432 Lightcall
435 Call-USA
436 Indiana Switch
440 Tex-Net
441 Escondido Telephone
442 First Phone
444 Allnet Communication Services (LDX, Lexitel)
455 Telecom Long Distance
456 ARGO Communications
462 American Network Services
464 Houston Network
465 Intelco
466 International Office Networks
469 GMW
472 Hal-Rad Communications
480 Chico Telecom (Call America)
488 United States Transmission Systems (ITT)
505 San Marcos Long Distance
515 Burlington Telephone
529 Southern Oregon Long Distance
532 Long Distance America
533 Long Distance Discount
536 Long Distance Management
550 Valu-Line of Alexandria
551 Pittsburg Communication Systems
552 First Phone
555 TeleSphere Networks
566 Cable & Wireless Communication (TDX)
567 Advanced Marketing Services (Dial Anywhere)
579 Lintel System (Lincoln Telephone LD)
590 Wisconsin Telecommunications Tech
599 Texas Long Distance Conroe
601 Discount Communications Services
606 Biz Tel Long Distance Telephone
622 Metro America Communications
634 Econo-Line Midland
646 Contact America
654 Cincinnati Bell Long Distance
655 Ken-Tel Service
660 Tex-Net
666 Southwest Communications
675 Network Services
680 Midwest Telephone Service
682 Ashland Call America
684 Nacogdoches Telecommunications
687 NTS Communications
700 Tel-America
704 Inter-Exchange Communications
707 Telvue
709 Tel-America
717 Pass Word
726 Procom
727 Conroe-Comtel
735 Marinette-Menominee Lds
737 National Telecommunications
741 ClayDesta
742 Phone America of Carolina
743 Peninsula Long Distance Service
747 Standard Informations Services
755 Sears Communication
757 Pace Long Distance Service
759 Telenet Communication (US Sprint)
760 American Satellite
766 Yavapai Telephone Exchange
771 Telesystems
777 US Sprint
785 Olympia Telecom
786 Shared Use Network Service
787 Star Tel of Abilene
788 ASCI's Telepone Express Network
789 Microtel
792 Southwest Communications
800 Satelco
801 MidAmerican LD (Republic)
827 TCS Network Services
833 Business Telecom
839 Cable & Wireless Communication (TDX)
847 VIP Connections
850 TK Communications
852 Telecommunicatons Systems
859 Valu-Line of Longview
866 Alascom
872 Telecommunications Services
874 Tri-Tel Communications
879 Thriftycall (Lintel Systems)
881 Coastal Telephone
882 Tuck Data Communications
883 TTI Midland-Odessa
884 TTI Midland-Odessa
885 The CommuniGroup
888 Satellite Business Systems (MCI)
895 Texas on Line
897 Leslie Hammond (Phone America)
898 Satellite Business Systems (MCI)
910 Montgomery Telamarketing Communication
915 Tele Tech
933 North American Communications
936 Rainbow Commuinications
937 Access Long Distance
938 Access Long Distance
951 Transamerica Telecommunications
955 United Communications
960 Access Plus
963 Tenex Communications
969 Dial-Net
985 America Calling
986 MCI Telecommunications (SBS)
987 ClayDesta Communications
988 Western Union Telegraph
991 Access Long Distance

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

 

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

The freephone numbers in the UK with computers on

1? ?  0 5 5 5 5 5 6 0800 MODEM CONNECTS
++++++++0800-896-XXX Scanned by cODeWalKeR of DaC And COVER+++++++

OK in addition to my phellow hacker the most god like phallic symbol of fertility
SCRIBLA. Greets also go out to SMURF....and...... JJJJJAAAAFFFFFF !!!!!
OK please remember that the "STAFF" at D.A.C. have spent many,many, nights
scanning these numbers for you and hope you all appreciate the work that has gone into this list, it not be very long but we are talking 1,000,s of numbers scanned
to find the 0800 numbers with systems for you to "HACK". So we would be more than
dissapointed not to hear from anyone who has downloaded this list and "hacked" into
one of these systems and not told us the results. So don't be complete TROGLODYTE
AND LET US ALL HAVE THE FRUITS OF YOUR LABOUR, THIS IS WHAT KEEPS US
GOING!!! Anyway nuff said, here are the numbers for you to fuck with and remember
all this phun to be had and it won't cost you anyting it's FFFFFRRRRRRREEEEEEEE!!
All these nimbers were scanned 31/5/94,in the twilight hours. Greets to all !!!

cOdEwAlKeR

0800 896 031
085
094
118
173
195
227
239
422
520
570
574
657

Oops almost forgot here is a few more i have been given by sCrIbLa !!! (respect)
0800 893 901
939
944
And because i'm addicted to this here are some i stumbeled upon before i went to bed
at such a fucking stupid hour again !!
0800 895 093
085 (300 buad)
054 (9600, 8 n 1)
ok guys here's the good one !!!!!!
CALL 0800 895 051 (not all at once) then type "help", then type "calleml"
that should get you started!!! sorry almost forgot 9600 baud,8/n/1. Watch out for system
security!!!!!!, it will ask for your I.D. at any time ,sorry but i can't help you there.

0800 895 011
898 028 (with this one you must set your moup to
connect AFTER you have dialed the number then hit the " * " key yourself ?)
021
044
030
038
The following numbers were taken for an old txt phile and I have updated them,they are as follows... 0800 262 243
282 278
443
861 (7/e/1)
542
871 (7/e/1) try cltr=e/q
289 396 (the code is xxx-xxxx )
586
643
817 Fun to fuck with!!
835
836
Well I think thats all i'm going to do now i think about 7,000 numbers have been scanned
and I think we should leave some for the rest of you. We have had a few connects on the
following numbers but they have not been completley scanned , so you may want to try
the following blocks of numbers yourself. 0800 289 2xx, 4xx, 7xx, and 0800 282 2xx, 3xx
4xx, 5xx,6xx. Also 0800 262 2xx. Well have phun and upload the results to us all. if you
want to exchange notes then leave a message for me.

Contact me on UnAuThOrIsEd AcCeSs
0636467

cOdEwAlKrE....C

PS 0800 899 899 (9600 7/E/1)

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

A list of 1- 800 extenders

A list of 1- 800 extenders

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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
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1-800 Extenters
---------------

Number Code Length Co.
------ ----------- ---
325-7222 6
328-4700 7
521-8400 8 Travelnet (GM)
437-7010 14 Calling Card
325-7499 6 Am. Network
227-0073 7
558-7888 6 or 7?
626-9600 7
637-7377 7 DANGEROUS!!!!!
446-4462 6 or 7 Skyline (MCI)
^ also 950-1088 ^local, 7 national
858-4009 6 or 7 NTS (Texas)
221-2480 8 (1+)
345-0008 6 US Telecom
762-3638 6
538-0007 6
922-0918 6 RCI
336-7817 6 ANY 6 works!
^CAREFUL!
221-0902 5?
633-8880 3
526-7490 6
527-3511 8 (2 tries)
558-1000 6 MCI
843-0698 6 MCI
682-4000 6
237-9300 ?
882-2255 5 Americom
221-1950 14 Calling Card
221-8190 1xxx+6 digits? RCA
523-7248 4?
321-0424 8?
321-0845 6
323-4313 5
327-0005 2800+?
368-4222 8
368-5963 14 MCI Call Card
547-1784 6 Am. Network
448-8989 8
621-1703 6

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

 

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

Lego Silencer

by Kipling

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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
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Items needed:

-round dowel (wood or rubber) that is the diameter of the pipe (it must fit tightly into the pipe so it doesn't fall out).)

-handlebar grip (the kind used on mountainbike handlebars) basically a long thin tube of rubber that is a fair thickness like that of a handlebar grip.

-pipe approx. 4-6 inches long which is not more than a few millimeters bigger than the handlebar grip in diameter.

- lego tires. the ones from the older lego. They were all one piece and kind of looked like this [ ]------------[ ] the 'rims' that the tires were on were redthe rest of the lego piece was usually black.

Instructions: take the pipe (I used a metal one with the pipe walls being only about a millimeter thickness) and slide the rubber handlebar grip all the way over it so the outside of the pipe is covered with the grip. Now take the lego tires (take them off the lego 'rims'. all you need is the tires themselves) and slide them down the inside of the pipe so they are evenly spaced at approx. half a centimeter from each other all the way down the inside of the pipe.

The tires should be a tight, snug fit as you are pushing down the pipe otherwise they will fall out of the pipe. so choose your pipe diameter accordingly. Leave some space free from lego tires inside the pipe at both ends. you will need to take the dowel (rubber or wood) and drill a hole exactly in the center which is approx. a millemeter bigger than a .22 cal. bullet.

Now you need to force it in one end of the silencer. This will become the "muzzle" (where the bullet comes out)of the silencer. Now wrap masking tape around the end of the barrel of your gun until the diameter of the tape is as thick as the inside diameter of your silencer. Finally you can now slide your silencer onto the end of your gunbarrel. Make sure it is a presice fit and that the muzzle of your gun lines up perfectly with the muzzle of your silencer otherwise the bullet will take the silencer with it next time you fire the gun.

When you fire the gun you will hear a high pitched noise (like a tweet) simmilar to what you hear on movies when someone uses a silencer. This takes approx. a couple hours to make and is fairly easy to make. I got the idea for this from other articles on this website, all I did was try to think of some alternate materials which would be easier to find around the house. But this works really great and you can make a bunch of them really easily and quickly for all your firearms. I only tried it on a .22 LR rifle using supersonic rounds, but I'm sure it would work on other calibers as well as long as you always make sure that the bullet itself is able to easily fit throught all the tires and the end dowel otherwise your silencer will be history the first time you try it.

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

An Aussie Beer Can Mortar

by Andy

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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
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Once apon a time well before I was connected to the net........

About Me..

Married, one ruggie, and a military man.

As a mechanical fitter I have been employed many times to manufacture tools and jigs for other tradesmen working in different departments in my unit. I have an interest in firearms (and weapons)of all types. I have used my skills to manufacture model, nad larger cannon as well as helping mates with legal modifications to there firearms. Yes I have also committed the most grevious of sins by de-activating or de-milling other wise serviceable weapons just because they were unfasionable at the time. I will never vote for that government again!!

Well any way one day...

I happened upon a large peice of brass round stock 125mm x 400mm. Too nice to be left lying around, too short for a cannon, just right for a mortar. So a quick look at my reference material and a suitable mortar shape was drawn up, scaled to give the least waste from the raw material... and just the right size to be bored to 62mm. A nice clearence diameter for a Victoria Bitter Beer Can. The exact dimentions of my mortar are unimportant, needless to say that I overengineered to some degree.

The projectile was selected because of:

A, size

b, shape

c, diameter

and, d, abundance!

The brass stock was offered to my trusty lathe and trued up externaly then drilled and bored to size. External dimentions were basic as all a Blackpowder mortar is, is a short, thick tube. The trunnion is located at the base, just the same as the modern stokes mortar, with a wooden carrage.

Mortars and Howitsers have a common theme, use a small powder charge to lob the projectile to the desired range. Many early mortar have huge bore sizes enabling large diameter projectiles to be fired short distances, all that was needed then. In keeping with the mortar theme a powder chamber 30mm in Dia. x 30mm deep was machined into the base of the short barrel.

Initial testing of the mortar with empty and gravel filled beer cans proved dissapointing.

The thinking cap went on and the very next weekend ten concrete filled beer cans were ready for some serious R&D

The Big day (no not Trinity NM 1945) but close!

A blow by blow account by Brat (not his real name)and Andy..

"Will it work this time" Snickered Brat.

"Fu** off Brat, I've just finished greasing the can, it would justabout fit your a** keep it up!" I retorted, we are really good mates!

"Eat me" or words to that effect snapped Brat.

"Is that all the powder you are going to use?" asked Brat

"Is the wick long enough?"

"Should'nt you push the can in more? finished Brat, the expert.

"Who's fu**ing this duck, stand back wicks lit" I replied.

"Shit"

BOOOM..gasp for breath, good shockwave!

The can launched out of that thing like a scalded cat (and we havew seen some oof those), rose to 200 meters, reached apogee (dictonary job) and tumbled into a lake at the 175 meter mark on the range (1/2 way between the turkeys and the rams. The thud of impact was preceded by the 10 meter shower of water glinting in the morning sun.

Just afterwards I was basking in wonder of what I had done, watching the thick cloud of smoke lasily drifd down range when I heared a funny noize...

"Is that you Brat?" I asked

"Mummummf, MMUMMF!"

"Speak up prick!" I replied as I turned to see Brat. His eyes were rolled back, in one bony hand was a beer can, in the other the powder flask and the reason he was incoherent 6" of wick clenched in between his drooling lips.

"OK your turn"

On a more analitical note:

Range at 45 - 55 Deg 180 to 250 meters

Altitude 200 to 250 meters, by eye

F grade Blackpowder only, augmented with homemade stuff to fill the chamber

Only the finest VB cans were used

Lots of Vasiline as lube

Felt wadding

commercial cannon fuse

The bore fouled up quickly, probably because of my blackpowder

Cement (mortar mix) strenghtened the can and increased pressure nicely.

We stood well back!!! and still felt the shock wave.

Standard disclamers, I'm telling a story, not giving instructions!!!

A BEER CAN IN FLIGHT IS A WONDERFUL SIGHT!

AIM

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

Jail-bird Ice Pick

by 6ic-Cee

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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
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The Jailbird Ice Pick

6-C

There's an ice-pick jailbirds make! Pro-lifers make these and kill each other with this; here's how to make it!

You'll Need:

A little bit of seran wrap or any king of plastic really.
A tooth brush.
Fire.

How to Make: Take the plastic and wrap it around the head of the tooth-brush tightly, put the head into an open flame from, let's say, a lighter untill it catches fire. Let it burn a bit, then, scrape it against the concrete floor untill you have a really sharp tooth-brush

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

GloveGun

by Corza

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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
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GloveGun

Materials:

Small metal Rubber glove fingers Duct tape

Optional: Welder

Step one:

Cut the finger of one ruber glove right down near the base. Get some pipe and make sure its just big enough so that you can strech the glove over it and it stays on.

Step two:

Cut the pipe to about 35 cm and 10 cm for a handle.

Step three:

Cut the end of the handle bit at 45 degrees, then weld it at the very end of the 35cm peice so it is in the shape of a number 7.

Step four:

Duct tape the handle up, and file of any cut ends. Then duct tape a glove finger about 3cms on the end of the pipe.

How to use:

Use fishing sinkers, ball bearings or my prefered ammo, metal nuts about one cm across. You can experiment with ammo and by putting a laser pointer on top but do not use rocks cause they cut up the glove fingers

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

Big Bullets For Beginners

by Anonymous

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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
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Big Bullets for Beginners Guns are generally classified according to use, size, and tradition. This varies among the military services. The basic distinction is between small arms and artillery. Any gun below a 20- millimeter bore size is generally classified as a small arm. The Army distinguishes among mortars, howitzers, and guns.

Mortars give high trajectories with short range and are usually loaded from the muzzle. Howitzers give medium-to-high trajectories, and guns provide flat-to-medium trajectories of longer range. Bore size is usually given in millimeters.

A gun can be considered as a particular kind of heat engine. In operation, the propellant charge located in the gun chamber is ignited by the primer. Gases produced by combustion of the propellant grains cause a rapid buildup of pressure. When a certain pressure is reached (shot-start pressure) which overcomes the forces of projectile weight and engraving of the projectile in the rifling, the projectile begins to move toward the muzzle which causes an increase in chamber volume. A maximum pressure is reached a few inches from the origin of rifling followed by a decrease in pressure all the way to the muzzle. At the muzzle, the pressure is 10 percent to 30 percent of the maximum pressure, depending on the geometry of the propellant grains.

Artillery ammunition can be classified in many ways. One classification is based on the manner in which the components are assembled for loading and firing. Complete rounds of artillery ammunition are known as either semi-fixed or separate loading. In contrast, small arms rounds are FIXED ammunition, with which it is not possible to adjust the amount of propellant in the cartridge case).

Semi-fixed ammunition is characterized by an adjustable propelling charge. The propellant is divided into increments, or charges, and each increment of propellant is contained in a cloth bag. All of the cloth bags are held together by an acrylic cord, and are stored in the cartridge case. The primer is an integral part of the cartridge case, and is located on the base. Semi-fixed ammunition may be issued fuzed or unfuzed. Semi-fixed ammunition is used in 105mm howitzers. The ammunition is shipped in a wooden crate, with two fiber tubes in each crate. The fiber tubes are sealed at each end with tape. Upon removing the tape, the cannoneer will place the heavy end down first, and remove the projectile from the fiber tube. Next, the cartridge case is removed. Both the projectile and canister MUST REMAIN in their fiber cups until firing. Separate loading ammunition has four separate components: primer, propellant, projectile, and fuze. The four components are issued separately. Upon preparation for firing, the projectile and propellant are loaded into the howitzer in two separate operations. Separate loading ammunition is used in 155mm howitzers.

There are two explosive trains in each conventional round of artillery ammunition; the PROPELLING CHARGE EXPLOSIVE TRAIN, and the PROJECTILE EXPLOSIVE TRAIN. The projectile reaches the target area by the power obtained from the propelling charge explosive train. The function of the projectile in the target area depends on the type of projectile explosive train.

The propelling charge explosive train consists of the primer, igniter, and propellant. The propelling charge explosive train is initiated by the primer, which is a small amount of very sensitive explosive. The primer is very sensitive to shock, friction, spark, and heat, and must be kept protected and away from other ammunition components. In separate loading ammunition, the primer is a separate item of issue. The igniter provides hot flaming gases and particles to ignite the propelling charge. The igniter consists of black powder or Clean Burning Igniter (CBI). The igniter is very hygroscopic and subject to rapid deterioration on absorption of moisture. If kept dry, however, it retains its explosive properties indefinitely. The igniter for semi-fixed ammunition is an integral part of the primer. It consists of a perforated tube filled with black powder and is permanently mounted in the cartridge case. In separate loading ammunition, the igniter is in a circular red pancake shaped bag sewn to the base increment of the propellant. When ignited by the primer, the igniter sends hot flaming gases around the charge to ignite the propellant.

A propellant is a large amount of insensitive but powerful explosive that propels the projectile to the target. Semi-fixed ammunition propellant is generally issued with seven increments numbered 1 through 7, and connected by a thin acrylic cord. Each increment is a different size because each increment has a different premeasured amount of propellant. Increment 1 and 2 are single perforated and increments 3-7 are multi-perforated. Separate loading ammunition propellants are issued as a separate unit of issue in sealed canisters to protect the propellant. The amount of propellant to be fired with artillery ammunition is varied by the number of propellant increments. The charge selected is based on the range to the target and the tactical situation.

Projectile Design

Since the first projectile was manufactured, the demand for greater accuracy and greater range has influenced projectile design. Without specifically constructed shapes and exterior parts, there would be no standard ballistic characteristics for any group or type of projectiles. A lack of ballistic standardization would prevent the computation of firing tables. Modern projectiles are designed for maximum stability and minimum air resistance in flight.

Eyebolt Lifting Plugs and Fuze Well Plugs. A separate-loading projectile has an eyebolt lifting plug. Other types of projectiles have metal hex-head or plastic closing plugs. The plug is for lifting; to keep the fuze well clean, dry, and free of foreign matter; and to protect the fuze well threads. The plug is removed, and the appropriate fuze is inserted at the firing position. Some special-purpose semifixed projectiles are issued with the fuzes already assembled in the projectile.

Ogive. The ogive is the curved portion of a projectile between the fuze well and the bourrelet. It streamlines the forward portion of the projectile. The curve of the ogive usually is the arc of the circle, the center of which is located in a line perpendicular to the axis of the projectile and the radius of which is generally 6 to 11 calibers.

Bourrelet. The bourrelet is an accurately machined surface that is slightly larger than the body and located immediately to the rear of the ogive. It centers the forward part of the projectile in the tube and bears on the lands of the tube. When the projectile travels through the bore, only the bourrelet and the rotating band of the projectile bear on the lands of the tube.

Body. The body is the cylindrical portion of the projectile between the bourrelet and the rotating band. It is machined to a smaller diameter than the bourrelet to reduce the projectile surface in contact with the lands of the bore. The body contains most of the projectile filler.

Rotating Band. The rotating band is a cylindrical ring of comparatively soft metal that is pressed into a knurled, or roughened, groove near the base of the projectile. It mates with the forcing cone of the tube to eliminate gas wash (blow-by) and to provide forward obturation. The rotating band, in conjunction with the rifling of the tube, imparts spin to the moving projectile. A properly rammed separate-loading projectile is held in the tube at all angles of elevation by the wedging action of the rotating band against the forcing cone.

Obturating Band. On some projectiles, there is a nylon obturating band below the rotating band to help in forward obturation. Two examples of 155-mm projectiles with this type of a band are the illuminating round and the high-explosive rocket-assisted round.

Base. The base is that portion of the projectile below the rotating band or obturating band. The most common type is known as the boattail base. This type of base streamlines the base of the projectile, gives added stability in flight, and minimizes deceleration by reducing the vacuum-forming eddy currents in the wake of the projectile as it passes through the atmosphere.

Base Cover. The base cover is a metal cover that is crimped, caulked or welded to the base of the projectile. It prevents hot gases of the propelling charge from coming in contact with the explosive filler of the projectile through possible flaws in the metal of the base.

Large Caliber Ammunition - Types of Projectiles

Projectiles can be broadly classified according to three main types: spin-stabilized, fin-stabilized, and rocket assisted (both fin- and spin-stabilized). Formal military classification is based on the intended use of the projectile and the composition of the explosive charge (i.e., antipersonnel, antitank, and incendiary). Some very significant progress in projectile design has been made in the past few years.

SPIN-STABILIZED PROJECTILES Most guns in use today use spin-stabilized projectiles. Spinning a projectile promotes flight stability. Spinning is obtained by firing the projectiles through a rifled tube. The projectile engages the rifling by means of a rotating band normally made of copper. The rotating band is engaged by the lands and grooves. At a nominal muzzle velocity of 2800 feet per second, spin rates on the order of 250 revolutions per second are encountered. Spin-stabilized projectiles are full bore (flush with the bore walls) and are limited approximately to a 5:1 length-to-diameter ratio. They perform very well at relatively low trajectories (less than 45° quadrant elevation). In high trajectory applications they tend to overstabilize (maintain the angle at which they were fired) and, therefore, do not follow the trajectory satisfactorily.

FIN-STABILIZED PROJECTILES These projectiles obtain stability through the use of fins located at the aft end of the projectile. Normally, four to six fins are employed. Additional stability is obtained by imparting some spin (approximately 20 revolutions/second) to the projectile by canting the leading edge of the fins. Fin-stabilized projectiles are very often subcaliber. A sabot, wood or metal fitted around the projectile, is used to center the projectile in the bore and provide a gas seal. Such projectiles vary from 10:1 to 15:1 in length-to-diameter ratio. Fin-stabilized projectiles are advantageous because they follow the trajectory very well at high-launch angles, and they can be designed with very low drag thereby increasing range and/or terminal velocity. However, fin-stabilized projectiles are disadvantageous because the extra length of the projectile must be accommodated and the payload volume is comparatively low in relation to the projectile length.

ROCKET-ASSISTED PROJECTILES There are two main reasons for developing rocket-assisted projectiles: (1) to extend the range over standard gun systems, and (2) to allow for lighter mount and barrel design and reduce excessive muzzle flash and smoke by reducing the recoil and setback forces of standard gun systems. Since the ranges are different, the above two objectives represent opposite approaches in the development of rocket-assisted projectiles. Normally, one or the other establishes the performance of the rocket-assisted projectile under development although some compromise in the two approaches may be established by the design objectives.

Large Caliber Ammunition - Types of Warhead

For convenience of discussion, large caliber ammunition may be be classified into five major groups: blast (including air and underwater burst), fragmentation, shaped charge, pyrotechnics, and cluster.

Blast

A blast warhead is one that is designed to achieve target damage primarily from blast effect. When a high explosive detonates, it is converted almost instantly into a gas at very high pressure and temperature. Under the pressure of the gases thus generated, the weapon case expands and breaks into fragments. The air surrounding the casing is compressed and a shock (blast) wave is transmitted into it. Typical initial values for a high-explosive weapon are 200 kilobars of pressure (1 bar = 1 atmosphere) and 5,000 degrees celsius. The energetic materials used by Department of Defense munitions produce an exothermic reaction defined either as a deflagration or a detonation. A deflagration is an exothermic reaction that propagates from the burning gases to the unreacted material by conduction, convection, and radiation. In this process, the combustion zone progresses through the material at a rate that is less than the velocity of sound in the unreacted material.

In contrast, a detonation is an exothermic reaction that is characterized by the presence of a shock wave in the material that establishes and maintains the reaction. A distinctive difference is that the reaction zone propagates at a rate greater than sound velocity in the unreacted material. Every material capable of detonating has a characteristic velocity that is under fixed conditions of composition, temperature, and density.

The violent release of energy from a detonation in a gaseous medium gives a sudden pressure increase in that medium. The pressure disturbance, termed the blast wave, is characterized by an almost instantaneous rise from the ambient pressure to a peak incident pressure (Pso). This pressure increase, or shock front, travels radially from the burst point with a diminishing velocity that always is in excess of the sonic velocity of the medium. Gas molecules making up the front move at lower velocities. This latter particle velocity is associated with a "dynamic pressure," or the pressure formed by the winds produced by the shock front.

As the shock front expands into increasingly larger volumes of the medium, the peak incident pressure at the front decreases and the duration of the pressure increases. If the shock wave impinges on a rigid surface oriented at an angle to the direction of propagation of the wave, a reflected pressure is instantly developed on the surface and the pressure is raised to a value that exceeds the incident pressure. The reflected pressure is a function of the pressure in the incident wave and the angle formed between the rigid surface and the plane of the shock front.

When an explosion occurs within a structure, the peak pressure associated with the initial shock front will be extremely high and, in turn, will be amplified by reflections within the structure. In addition, the accumulation of gases from the explosion will exert additional pressures and increase the load duration within the structure. The combined effects of both pressures eventually may destroy the structure if it is not strengthened sufficiently or adequate venting for the gas and the shock pressure is not provided, or both. For structures that have one or more strengthened walls, venting for relief of excessive gas or shock pressures, or both, may be provided by means of openings in or frangible construction of the remaining walls or roof, or both. This type of construction will permit the blast wave from an internal explosion to spill over onto the exterior ground surface. These pressures, referred to as exterior or leakage pressures, once released from their confinement, expand radially and act on structures or persons, or both, on the other side of the barrier.

Conventional structures are designed to withstand roof snow loads of 30 pounds per square foot (1.44 kilopascals) and wind loads of 100 miles per hour (161 kilometers per hour). The loads equate to 0.2 pounds per square inch (psi). An important consideration in the analysis of explosions is the effect of the fragments generated by the explosion. These fragments are known as primary or secondary fragments depending on their origin. Primary fragments are formed as a result of the shattering of the casing of conventional munitions. These fragments usually are small in size and travel initially at velocities of the order of thousands of feet per second. Secondary fragments are formed as a result of high blast pressures on structural components and items in close proximity to the explosion. These fragments are somewhat larger in size than primary fragments and travel initially at velocities in the order of hundreds of feet per second. A hazardous fragment is one having an impact energy of 58 ft-lb (79 joules) or greater.

Fragmentation

The study of ballistics, the science of the motion of projectiles, has contributed significantly to the design of fragmentation warheads. Specifically, terminal ballistics studies attempt to determine the laws and conditions governing the velocity and distribution of fragments, the sizes and shapes that result from bursting different containers, and the damage aspects of the bursting charge fragmentation.

Approximately 30% of the energy released by the explosive detonation is used to fragment the case and impart kinetic energy to the fragments. The balance of available energy is used to create a shock front and blast effects. The fragments are propelled at high velocity, and after a short distance they overtake and pass through the shock wave. The rate at which the velocity of the shock front accompanying the blast decreases is generally much greater than the decrease in velocity of fragments, which occurs due to air friction. Therefore, the advance of the shock front lags behind that of the fragments. The radius of effective fragment damage, although target dependent, thus exceeds consid-erably the radius of effective blast damage in an air burst.

Whereas the effects of an idealized blast payload are attenuated by a factor roughly equal to 1/R3 (R is measured from the origin), the attenuation of idealized fragmentation effects will vary as 1/R2 and 1/R, depending upon the specific design of the payload. Herein lies the principle advantage of a fragment-ation payload: it can afford a greater miss distance and still remain effective because its attenuation is less.

Anti-personnel fragmentation munitions are designed to destroy or maim personnel or to damage material enough to render it inoperable. In the area of field artillery, the flechette or beehive round is an example of an anti-personnel warhead. The payload in this projectile consists of 8,000 steel-wire, fin-stabilized darts. Upon detonation the darts, or flechettes, are sprayed radially from the point of detonation, normally within sixty feet of the ground. It is extremely effective against personnel in the open or in dense foliage.

Shaped Charge

The discovery of what is variously referred to as the shaped charge effect, the hollow charge effect, the cavity effect, or the Munroe effect, dates back to the 1880s in this country. Dr. Charles Munroe, while working at the Naval Torpedo Station at Newport, Rhode Island, in the 1880s, discovered that if a block of guncotton with letters countersunk into its surface was det-onated with its lettered surface against a steel plate, the let-ters were indented into the surface of the steel. The essential features of this effect were also observed in about 1880 in both Germany and Norway, although no great use was made of it, and it was temporarily forgotten.

A shaped charge warhead consists basically of a hollow liner of metal material, usually copper or aluminum of conical, hemispherical, or other shape, backed on the convex side by explosive. A container, fuze, and detonating device are included.

When this warhead strikes a target, the fuze detonates the charge from the rear. A detonation wave sweeps forward and begins to collapse the metal cone liner at its apex. The collapse of the cone results in the formation and ejection of a continuous high-velocity molten jet of liner material. Velocity of the tip of the jet is on order of 8,500 meters per sec, while the trail-ing end of the jet has a velocity on the order of 1,500 meters per sec. This produces a velocity gradient that tends to stretch out or lengthen the jet. The jet is then followed by a slug that consists of about 80% of the liner mass. The slug has a velocity on the order of 600 meters per sec.

When the jet strikes a target of armor plate or mild steel, pressures in the range of hundreds of kilobars are produced at the point of contact. This pressure produces stresses far above the yield strength of steel, and the target material flows like a fluid out of the path of the jet. This phenomenon is called hydrodynamic penetration. There is so much radial momentum associated with the flow that the difference in diameter between the jet and the hole it produces depends on the characteristics of the target material. A larger diameter hole will be made in mild steel than in armor plate because the density and hardness of armor plate is greater. The depth of penetration into a very thick slab of mild steel will also be greater than that into homogeneous armor.

In general, the depth of penetration depends upon five factors:

Length of jet

Density of the target material

Hardness of target material

Density of the jet

Jet precision (straight vs. divergent)

The longer the jet, the greater the depth of penetration. Therefore, the greater the standoff distance (distance from target to base of cone) the better. This is true up to the point at which the jet particulates or breaks up (at 6 to 8 cone diameters from the cone base). Particulation is a result of the velocity gradient in the jet, which stretches it out until it breaks up. Jet precision refers to the straightness of the jet. If the jet is formed with some oscillation or wavy motion, then depth of penetration will be reduced. This is a function of the quality of the liner and the initial detonation location accuracy. The effectiveness of shaped charge warheads is reduced when they are caused to rotate. Spin-stabilized projectiles generally cannot use shaped-charge warheads.

Pyrotechnics

Pyrotechnics are typically employed for signaling, illuminating, or marking targets.

Illumination--These warheads usually contain a flare or magnesium flare candle as the payload, which is expelled by a small charge and is parachuted to the ground. During its descent the flare is kindled. The illuminating warhead is thus of great usefulness during night attacks in pointing out enemy fortifications. Because these flares are difficult to extinguish if accidentally ignited, extreme caution in their handling is required.

Smoke--These munitions are used primarily to screen troop movements and play a vital role in battlefield tactics. A black powder charge ignites and expels canisters that may be designed to emit white, yellow, red, green, or violet smoke.

Markers--White phosphorus is commonly employed as a pay-load to mark the position of the enemy. It can be very dangerous, especially in heavy concentrations. The material can self-ignite in air, cannot be extinguished by water, and will rekindle upon subsequent exposure to air. Body contact can produce serious burns. Copper sulphate prevents its re-ignition.

Cluster

Cluster munitions are canisters containing dozens or hundreds of small bomblets for use against a variety of targets, such as personnel, armored ve-hicles, or ships. Once in the air, the canisters open, spreading the bomblets out in a wide pattern. The advantage of this type of warhead is that it gives a wide area of coverage, which allows for a greater margin of error in delivery.

Flechettes

Flechettes are fin stabilized steel projectiles similar in appearance to arrows. During the Korean War the Chinese army tactic of human wave attacks against US lines of defence prompted interest in flechette projectiles in single and multiple projectile systems for small arms and antipersonnel (APERS) use. Flechettes have a performance criteria very different from the conventional rifle bullet. Typical modern flechettes are small light weight steel projectiles, and the velocity lost to air resistance is generally 375 fps. per 100 Meters of flight. Unlike rifle bullets, flechettes are not spin stabilized, but use fins to achieve level flight. The flechette's long body looses rigidity on target impact and bends into a hook, often breaking off the fin portion creating an additional wound. Flechette munitions include projectiles for use in the M16 rifle, CAWS (close assault weapons system), and 12 gage shotgun, as well as the 105mm M101A1/M102 howitzer, 2.75 in. FFAR (folding fin aircraft rocket), and the 70mm Hydra-70 FFAR.

Painting and marking

All projectiles are painted, both as a means of ready identification and as a rust preventative. The basic colors used for many years were olive drab (OD) for high-explosive rounds, gray for chemical rounds, blue for practice rounds, and black for drill rounds. A system of contrasting color markings or bands in addition to the basic color has also been used to identify the particular type of high explosive or chemical used as a filler. Color coding of recently produced projectiles is somewhat different. For example, illuminating and smoke rounds are no longer painted gray, the basic color for chemical shells. Illuminating rounds are now painted basically white or olive drab, and the smoke rounds are painted green. The basic color for dummy ammunition has been changed to bronze. Projectiles containing high explosive TNT Amatol, etc.) are painted yellow. Projectiles containing chemicals (gas or smoke) are painted blue-gray. Projectiles containing low explosives (black powder) are painted red. Projectiles are also stenciled to show the caliber, type of cannon used in, ammunition lot number, kind of filling, etc

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

Ripping Internet Sportbooks

by jsenza

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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
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This text is for the addicted gambler that doesn't feel like losing all his/her money.

The purpose of this text is to be able to place bets for football, baseball, basketball or whatever sport people prefer to bet on, without the risk of losing money if the team loses. Whats needed:

1) Internet sportbook that time zone allows game to be played while western union at his location is closed. (explained later)

2) 24 hour Western Union in your location.

3)Some type of knowledge of whatever sport you are betting on.

4) Money, preferably the max that the sport book allows on the first bet. usually $1,000-$5,000.

Now if you can't even come up with a grand, don't bother reading on. There was always a saying that you need money to make it. The only reason this is being posted is that basically enough money was made to quit.

Most internet sportbooks are offshore and in another time zone. What you do is open an account (use fake name incase you do this more than once), get the toll free number. Then they will ask you to fund your account. You do this by credit card or you use a Western Union Money Transfer. You tell them or email them that you want to use Western Union. You get the instructions for the transfer, then you call or go on the W.U. site to find out what time their W.U. closes, ex. 11:00p.m.

Next you pick a game that is playing "AFTER" their W.U. is closed. You send the money transfer to them right before their W.U. closes, ex. 10:55p.m. Then you call the sport book and notify them that you sent the transfer and give them the control number. They will track the number and see that you did send money, so they "will" let you place your bet.

Now if your team wins, the next day, inform the sportbook that you would like your winnings along with your original bet. They'll send it because they do want you to continue to play with them in the future.

If your team loses, just notify western union that you want to cancel your transfer, a small fee will be incurred, go to the 24 hr W.U. in your area to pick your money up. Now since the W.U. at the sportbook location is closed, they can't pick up the money. when they do go to pick it up, they will see that you cancelled the transfer, just disregard any emails or just deny that you cancelled. Just go find another internet sportbook or reuse the same guy after a month or so under another name.

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

Get Free Drinks or Cash

by Damifoo

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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
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When you're out at the shops next go to the front of the stores where they have the coke machines and stuff. Now pretend to put money in the machine. Usually i put 10 cents in or so. Now comes the fun part. Look all shit off and hit the buttons repeatedly. Storm up to the front counter and imply that the machine ate your money and didnt give you youre drink and wont refund your cash.

When the clerk asks how much you put in I usually say 2 dollars as that is the highest coin there is ;) Now usually they ask if you want your money back or a drink. Now make the decision and move to the next store ;)

Sometimes the clerk will put money in the machine and argue that his went thru. Most dont but even if they do they still give you what you want.

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

How to Get Free Netzero and Juno Access

A new way to have free Netzero and Juno -- since they use the same software it's easier.

ok this is how it goes but there is a catch you have to do it everytime you log on ok this is how it goes ok when you log on to netzero press Alt+Ctrl+Delete and click on Zcast and press End Task then wait till another window that comes up that says End Task on it and press and End task when you press End Task it closes your internet connection but if you are not slow and quick you press Alt+Ctrl+Delete again after closing Zcast and End Task Chkras and there you go you have free netzero if you get this then something with juno you End Task My Juno and after that you End Task Adbanner its so easy and sorry about my crappy explantion this is the best i could to if you dont get it then i guess you dont have that many brain cells and if you do then good job you got the free internet freeloader.

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

Free Stuff At The Movies

So you have a couple bucks and want to see a flick?

First buy a ticket for a movie you actually want to see. Go into the theater and find a cup on the floor that some slob left for you. Now go up to the concession stand, tell the kid you spilled your soda and the cup hit the the floor, so you need a new cup and soda. I have done this many times. 9 Times out of ten they gladly offer a refill. I have never gotten shit from any one when doing this the worst is they joke about it like say "how likely" and shit but still give you the soda. I have neve been refused w/ this one this also works for popcorn or whatever. If you can't find the trash, then buy one drink it "spill" it to get the refill.

So ya got the snacks and shit and ya saw your movie well why not stay for a double feture? No you dont have to pay! Just walk into the movie.I do this every time I go to see a movie and its not hard. Just do it!

Is that against the law?

For all under-age like myself, if you want to see a rated R film, bring a friend w/ id. If you have no friends go up to an adult and just ask dont give em the money till after(or never!) they buy your ticket or they might rip you off.

So after you had all of your fun and ready to go home why not get your money back?

Go up to the person who is selling the tickets. Tell em the movie sucks or there were old farts talking through the whole thing and get your money back a gift certifacite or a ticket to any movie.

Don't be an ass and do this shit every day at the same place if they have an IQ greater than that of a box of hair they'll find you out.If you ever get caught, bullshit 'em. I have done these and still do and they work its just a matter of having balls or not so try this stuff out and have fun and look for more of my files later!!

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

Scamming French Trains

by Toni Truant

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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
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Hi if you plan to travel to europe next year,think about going to France enjoying the pleasure of laziness,getting drunk and easy sex(american accent is very sexy to french ears) don't worry about pating train no more. Just jump in the train let it start,then go BY YOURSELF talk to the controller,this way he'llthink you're honest say you lost your credit card or any kind of bullshit ,and ask them if please could they write you a ticket that you'll pay soon. Of course be nice make them feel you're really gonna pay etc etc etc.

It's necessary to show an I.D. and preferably an adress in France.What you can do is go to a police station,fill up a "declaration de perte" (declaration of loss)for your international driver's license(french cop don't bother registering U.S. lost license) tell cop you lost credit card by the way.On the declaration say your temporary adress is somewhere in France (fin some in the phone book.

If anybody ask what the fuck are you doing in this country tell them your gran-gran-dad lost his life in Normandy on june 6th 1944 and you're doing a pilgrimage for the sake of the old bastard rocking soul! French official should show at least compassion, if not the red carpet. Notice that TGV(fast train) run at 200 mph station are downtown and they're always fucking on time. Actually under 500 miles it's way better than plane.

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

Fight to Maim: Non-Lethal Hand to Hand Combat

Fight to Maim: Non-Lethal Hand to Hand Combat
by A Voice in England

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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
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In real life you must expect your opponent to be stronger than you when you study combat.Your study should be how to over come their advantages.

HERE ARE A FEW NONLETHAL FIGHTING TECHNIQUES(most of these are Korean-boo hiss communists- i know)

1.Fold your thumb in and stiffen and straighten your fingers, with this spear hand(son sonkut tulgi)ram your opponent in the solar plexus, under the brest bone.This should cause the inability to move for about 5 minutes if done hard.

2.Make a "karate chop" (knife hand-sonkal taregi)and strike the adams apple , very lightly otherwise you will kill them, this causes your enemy to gag and choke.

3.Grab your attackers wrist, as they punch you, with both hands [suppose they hit with their left hand]twist left so you have your back 2 them and slam their arm (that is now straightened with wrist veins up) onto your shoulder, thus snapping the elbow joint.

4.Use an uppercutt elbow strike to the victims chin , this will knock them out.

5.Stamp the kneecaps and as you do punch the face , only a master will see them both comeing.

6.Use a backfist (ap joolmuck taerigi) to smash the nose causing tears and sickening.

7.When facing many attacks spin away so they glance off the back.

8.Aim kicks at the stomach and knees and punches to the solar plexus and face.

AND REMEMBER ALWAYS KEEP A GOOD GUARD - 1 ARM LIKE THIS _I INFRONT AND THE OTHER ARM ACROSS THE WAIST WHILE STANDING SIDE ON.
 

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

Easy Way to Cheat Parking Meters

by Dali

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If you live in any city or busy town, you probably get jacked quite often for an expired meter. In my city those parking enforcement bastards are writing you up seconds after the meter expires. And how about all the money in quarters you dish out? I bet if you added it all up you could feed a small country....those bastards are taking the food out of poor babies mouths!

Well, here is a handy way to never have to pay the parking meter and park scott-free for hours. You will get really good at this and you will never put another quarter in the meter again...(except of course when your mother is with you)

Let me first say that this does NOT work in the brand new meters that are digital. (I'm working on that)

1) park your car in front of the meter

2) while in your car, find a business card or a matchbook or any semi-thick paper. (if it's abusiness card

3)If you have a business card: tear 1 inch off of the end and 1/2 inch off of the bottom (you should have a rectangular piece of card measuring about 2-1/2 x 1-1/2 now) if you have a matchbook: open it up and tear off the cover ane half of the back (that should leave you with a 1-1/2" x 2-1/2" rectangle as well) Any piece of semi-thick paper can be torn into these dimentions. (the envelope from a parking ticket works well too!)

4) Fold the paper in half lenghth-wise and then fold it in half length-wise again. You will now have a pretty thick peice of card now measuring about 2-1/2 inches by 1/4 inch.

5) walk up to the meter (don't get nervous nobody pays any attention to someone putting change in their meter, silly) and insert the folded card into the quarter slot until the paper stops. It''s best that the card is thick and takes a little effort going into the slot. As soon as the card is about half-way in the slot, turn the crank on the meter all the way (this will take a little effort). Turning the crank will pull the card into the slot further. Turn the crank all the way until the yellow "violation" sign appears at the top and sticks. Do not try and turn the crank back in the other direction as this may kick up the red sign (ticket). The point is to jam the meter into it's "broken" position which is the yellow "voilation" sign. When the violation sign is up THEY CANNOT TICKET YOU. You can stay there indefinantely if they don't chalk you...If they chalk you (and this is VERY rare) you get about 2 hours (depending on the meter zone ie: 2 hour max etc.)

6) Tear off any ends of card that may still be protruding from the quarter slot. (if you're really socially concious you can leave it sticking out, then when you return you can pull out the entire card and the meter will be as good as new....but I wouldn't reccomend this as sometimes the metermaid will pull it out herself and then another one will come by later an give you a ticket)

7) test the crank and make sure it's jammed well...If you done it right the crank will be so jammed that you can't even turn it back)

8) go on your merry way and rejoice in the knowlege that you saved another dollar toward the starving children's fund.

Remember: when the yellow "violation" sign is up on the meter you are fine. This just means that the meter is broken and you have immunity from tickets when you're at a broken meter. After a while you will do this without even thinking about it. Remenber to keep plenty of cards or matches in your car.

Note: just in case the metermaids try to crack down on this meter-terrorism, don't have your goddam name on the cards or papers you're inserting into the meter.

Again, once you get the hang of it this system is flawless. And I really don't think the metermaids care that much either since they can easily pull the paper out when they open up the meter to collect the change.

-----

If you live in a big city that has a "Chinatown", then another great way to cheat the meter is to purchase a roll of chinese candy called "HAW FLAKES" at any chinese 5 and dime store.

Haw Flakes come in small rolls of twenty and cost about a nickel a roll. Haw Flakes WORK IN THE METERS AS QUARTERS (not the digital meters). You put in one Haw flake and GENTLY turn the crank. Sometimes they break, so just try again. They do work. Haw Flakes are mighty yummy too..but remember thier great value as money before you scarf all your quarters down. You Chinese folks out there no what the hell I'm talking about don't cha......

No worries though as the card jamming method above works very well.

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

Swimming Pool Lockers

Swimming Pool Lockers
by om3ga

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I don't know if U.S anarchists can relate to this as I live in England but hear me out nonetheless, even though i talk bollocks :)

In swmming pool changing rooms, there are normally loads of lockers, you know, the ones with the keys in. The customer has to put either a token or 50 pence or somthing. These used to be refundable, but some capitalist bastard thought it would be a good idea to charge the swimmers 50p every time they wanted to go in their locker. So a friend of mine told me this trick on how to get the key out every time without filling a narcs pocket with beer money.

Okay, here goes; the key should be upright when you approach the locker. [Using the "conventional method", putting in your token will allow you turn the key all the way round and be removed] But we don't wanna do that. What you do is turn the key as far anti-clockwise at it will go, then hit the key hard using the heel of your hand [hurts] or a shoe [well you aren't going swimming in your shoes are you?] and it should *click* - this should do the trick.

Another point about lockers, if you get a key and don't intend to use the locker, keep it. The management always have spares and if they see a locker that has been unopened for a few days, they will put in the spare as a replacement. This allows the holder of the original to access the chosen locker whenever someone else is using it.
 

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

Mailbox Info

by Poetic Psycho

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Ah the mailbox. Since the times of the Pony Express back in the 1800's, these nifty little things have been around. They were, and still are, devices for holding and storing postal mail. They come in various colors, shapes, sizes, and materials, but they all have 2 things in common

1: They all have a flag of some sort to alert the postal dude theres waiting mail inside

2: Someone, SOMEWHERE, at sometime, has thought of busting the holy living shit out of it!

Thats right bitch! You know that somewhere in your heart and soul, you've wanted to take a baseball bat, a tree limb, a stick, a rock, SOMETHING, and just beat the little fucker into tin foil! Well, as the intro states, I will explain the best ways to, and also why you shouldn't! (More on that later)

The "Pull'Em-Plenty" Method

One of the most obvious (and most hilarious) ways to destroy mailboxes is to obtain a truck (trucks vastly rule over cars for this) a chain, and about 3 Anarchy buds. After selecting the target, (and making sure its about 3:00 in the morning when the little shits inside have gone beddy bye), back as quietly up to the mailbox as possible. Hell, turn the truck off, put it in neutral, and have your friends push it up to the mailbox. In any case, hook the chain to the rear bumper of the truck and wrap the other end around the mailbox post. Wrap it securely now, shame to use up all that time and the fucker not even come out. Once its tied good and steady, you and your boys pile in the truck and stomp the gas! That motherfucker will (unless they cemented it) be jerked right out of the ground and you can drive off with the whole damn thing, mailbox AND the post used to hold it into the ground!

The "Plow'em-Plenty" Method

Like the above method, a truck works best. However in this case, a big metal bumper is a MUST. To perform this nifty ass trick, simply find a lonely deserted road with a lot of mailboxes in a line. Pick a starting target and then stomp the gas and plow over every fucking one of them! To REALLY make some noise, have the horn blowing the whole time. The crashing of the boxes and the horn is sure to wake up someone and then you'll have an audience! Be sure to give'em an encore..heh heh heh

The "Drive-By-Pulvarize'em-Plenty" Method

Another classic, yet more dangerous, way is the good ole' drive by method. Simply take a large blunt object (metal baseball bats are BEST!) and, having a trusted friend drive, make a run down a dark and lonely street at about 20 miles per, taking swings at every mailbox possible. The wooden ones with the dumbass tractors or cats on top are best, cause they shatter and make a hell of a mess

Now that I've explained some of the ways to bust up on some mailboxes, let me explain why you should NOT!

--True Story--

(To protect myself from incrimination, the details such as date and time and passangers are changed, but weapon of destruction and legal troubles are the same)

Late one July night at about 3:12, me and 2 of my friends (17 and 14) decided to go for a joyride. Nothing much, just riding around. Not much to do, its a boring old farm community so its not like anythings going on. Anyway, I got the brilliant idea that it would be fun to destroy a few mailboxes, just for fun you know? My neighboors metal baseball bat was already in the car, so we were set! We found us a lonely country road and took over, my friend driving along at about 30 m.p.h. while I held the bat. We'd come close to a mailbox...BAMM!! Bash the fucker, then roar off into the night to seek another target. After about the 6th house, we noticed a truck behind us. a car-truck chase ensues and since my little car is much faster and more maneuverable than that big ass clunker truck, we got away right?

WRONG! Dumbshits as we were, we forgot the faggot probably got our license. This was confirmed later when a sheriffs car pulled into the yard and promptly ordered the three of us to go with him to the station. Awaking my mom, she took the younger comrade while me and my 17 year old bud rode together in the cop car.

Now, for any of you that think busting a mailbox is no big deal, THINK AGAIN! Me and the 17 year old got a free night in jail for that shit and $3,000 bail. 6 mailboxes x $500.00 per offense. After a few months, our court date came around. I got First Offender Plea Bargain and the court settled on 12 months probation and an $875.00 fine plus restitution of all the mailboxes, which amounted to almost $300.00. The judge told me without the bargain, I could liekly be facing 6 years in a state prison.

6 YEARS!? You say? Bullshit! Not so bitch! The maximum penalty (I think) is 12 months in a state prison per offense, 6 offenses = 6 years. As I found out, Destruction of Mailboxes is a FEDERAL OFFENSE because the postal service is a Federal service and since the boxes hold Federal property (your mail, believe it or not) any damage to them is considered damage to the Federal Government. And trust me, from experience, the Gov. does NOT take destruction of these damn things lightly

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

Mutant Insects

by Jason Tyler

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To start with, make a large cage (20' by 20' by 8' ??) out of chicken-wire that could hold in locusts or perhaps grasshoppers, preferably over grass or something similar to their natural habitat. Then gather up a few dozen of the species and place them in the cage. Leave them alone for a few weeks (or more) to generate, breed, populate, have sex, or whatever you call it while you call around and get a list of all the common pesticides/insecticides (I'll refer to them as P/I) used in that area. Buy a gallon or so of each one, and a good spray bottle (or something to distribute the P/I).

When the insects have grown to a few hundred in population, spray the area (insect cage) with less than the recommended dosage on the P/I directions, or enough to kill about half of the insects (make sure the P/I is evenly distributed so every insect gets the same amount). Then let the insects regenerate to a few hundred or so, and repeat the process.

If you don't understand so far, the reason behind this is some of the insects were naturally more immune to the P/I to begin with than other insects. Exposing the insects to the P/I will only kill the insects that weren't very immune to P/I. This only leaves the insects with the "good" genes, and they will breed and (hopefully) have offspring with the same, or better, genes.

After this process is repeated about a dozen times (this might take from a couple months to half a year), let the insects into the wild and see what happens. If you're lucky, many farmers will start to lose their crops because the insects have built up an immunuty to their P/I and are rapidly spreading thier genes to wild insects. If all goes well, you'll have the whole county in panic and they won't know what hit them!

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

Picking Master Locks

The locks that have the keyhole on the back and have a serial number of "Vxx" are uncrackable by the method used by d4ftv4dd3r, but are some of the easiest locks that you can possibly pick.

All that you need to pick these locks is a bobby pin and a flathead screwdriver approx. 3mm wide. To pick the lock put the screw driver in the vertical slot at the bottom of the lock, and put the bobby pin in the slot with the pins. Turn the screw driver so that the lock is turning clockwise and just sort of wiggle the bobby pin up and down to lock up the pins. If you do it right the lock should rotate 90 degrees and you should be able to open the lock.

A problem I ran into is that the lock would only turn if i had exactly the right sized screw driver. Make sure the flathead screwdrive you use is perfectly square, and does not start thin at the top and get wider.

If you want to learn how to correctly pick a lock i would advise you to go to http://www.lysator.liu.se/mit-guide/mit-guide.html . There is some reading involved but its the best site i can find.

If these locks are used in your school than the same key is used to open them all, so if you can pick one, you can pick them all

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

A Weakness in Cheap Imitation Combinations Locks

by B|u

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My definition of a cheap lock is a lock that is not a master lock. Usually the easiest way to tell if the lock is cheap is when the dial on the lock is a different color than black, such as blue or red or yellow. You can also tell if it's a shitty lock when you turn the dial and it doesn't rotate smoothly.

Now here is the easy part. All you need to do is remove one of your socks from your feet or bring one from home. Small towels also work and might be better because they are a little bit stronger.

Then slip the towel/sock between the horseshoe of the lock (the U shaped bent metal holding the lock to the locker) after you slip it through evenly, grab each end of the sock with you hands so you left hand is on one end of the sock and your right hand on the other.

This part requires alot of speed. As hard as you can, snap down and tug in a quick downward motion. The lock may not budge the first time, but keep tugging fast and hard and the horseshoe will come detached from the rest of the lock.

Remember it does not work on MASTER brand locks but most other cheap imitations with the turn-dial interface.

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

Solving Pre-1996 Master Locks

NOTE!!: If you have a patience/learning problem, jump down to "For the impatient" below. My apologies for this long and dry article.

Regarding picking Master locks in your article, :

http://www.totse.com/en/bad_ideas/locks_and_security/piklock.html

Masterlocks will not be able to be opened using the technique described with the hairpin, due to the way the the lock is constructed. They use 3 pretty heavy duty metal disks with slots in them to hold the locking mechanism in place, so unless the hairpin is strong enough to twist the metal of 2-3 disks, it won't open. However, there is a flaw to their construction.

It is possible to determine the 3rd number on any master lock built before 1996 or so to a very high degree of precision and short amount of time. First of all, a bit of theory. They way a master lock works, is when you turn the dial, you are directly turning the disk of the 3rd number of the combination. The 3rd disk in turn turns the second, and the second turns the first. That's why you have to fully rotate the dial 2 or 3 times in the clockwise direction before going to the first number, so as to make sure that the first disk is being turned. Each disk has a little nub that protrudes from it's face, the second disk having one on each face so it is able to touch both the first and third nubs. So when you turn the dial, you are turning the 3rd disk, then the nub of the 3rd disk collides with that of the second and turns the second, and then the nub on the second collides with the first and turns the first. By the way, each disk has a deep slot in it. When you enter the correct combination, in effect, you are aligning the 3 slots of the disks in the correct position. The locking mechanism can now rotate and slide into the slots of the disks, freeing the latch.

To prevent people from simply pulling on the latch and rotating the dial to feel where the slot is on the third disk, the kind people at Master installed a 4th dummy disk, with "random" notches in it. That is why when you pull on the latch of a master lock, you find that it only turns a few degrees, and then stops, with seemingly random stops every few degrees. However, with any lock built before 1996 or so (not sure of exact date), not all dummy slots are equal, and the third number is still very findable.

F O R T H E I M P A T I E N T

If you have a lock to experiment with, you will find that for every dummy slot, there is a matching dummy slot every interval of 10. For instance, if you pull on the latch and turn the dial and finds that it stops on the number "12", indeed you will find that it stops also at "22", "32" and "2". If you find another at "6", you will see that it stops also on 16, 26, and 36. So bloody what you say? Here is the deadly trick. Say for instance you find the dial stops on "3", and you jiggle the dial a little bit and find that the red arrow, with a modest amount of jiggling, can point to either side of the 3 tick. Now you test 13, and see that, jiggling it, it is the same, that the red arrow is directly centered on the 13 and you can manipulate it to point on either side of the tick. But, when you test 23, you find that the tick is to the left of the 23 tick, that with a good amount of jiggling, it is directly in the middle of 22 and 23 and can point to either.You have found the 3rd number. It is 23. To verify, you test 33, and find that it is like 13 and 3.

What may also happen is this: You find that 3, 13, and 33, instead of being directly pointed by the red arrow, are all off centered to the left a little bit, but 23 is pointed by the arrow straight on. Again, 23 is your 3rd number. It is the deviant one that is the 3rd. With newer master locks, the notches are all identical, as far as I can tell.

"Now what about the first and second numbers you bloody prick?", you say. "There's still a bajillion and a half possible combinations!!!!@!". Worry not. The people of Master were kind to the likes of us, and were lazy. Let me jump straight to it.

Let x represent the first number, y the second, and z the third, which is known. let the symbol "%" represent "modulus", which yields the remainder of a division. So for instance, 7 % 3 = 1, because the remainder of 7/3 is 1. Let this then, be known:

z % 4 = x % 4

z % 4 = (y % 4) + 2

In other words, if z is 15, than x may be 3, 7, 11, 15, 19, 23, 27, 31, etc. And y may be 1, 5, 9, 13, 17, 21, etc.

(Note: the above equation still holds true for post-1996 master locks. It's just that it's harder to find the 3rd number...)

Now, that narrowed down the combination by quite a bit. With this knowledge, anyone can open an old master lock within 20 minutes or so, with some concentration. But with proper technique, a masterlock may be broken in 7 minutes or less, depending on the combo.

Remember all that jazz about the rotating disks and all that useless information? Here's where it becomes useful. Here is a sample of how, if one forgets his masterlock combo, one would find it again.

FOR THE REEEALLLYYYY IMPATIENT

1. The 'user' finds that the third number is 17

2. The 'user' turns the dial clockwise several rotations, until he is moving all three disks. (you can actually feel when the second disk begins rotating, and the first)

3. The user continues turning clockwise and stops on the number 1, his first guess for the first number.

4. The user then begins turning the dial counter-clockwise slowly, until he feels the third disk (for he is directly turning the third disk) collide with the second disk. (Which should happen around 0 or 39, in this case)

5. The user rotates the second disk to the 3 position, his/her first guess for the second number.

6. The user then rotates the dial (and the third disk) to the predetermined 3rd number, 13.

7. The user pulls on the latch. Assuming it does not open, for that would prove to be boring, the user continues as such:

8. The user SLOWLY, rotates the dial counterclock wise until he/she feels the second dial, at the number 3 where he/she left it.

9. The user rotates counterclockwise from 3 to 7.

10. The user then rotates clockwise back to 13.

11. User pulls latch.

12. user rotates counterclockwise till the user hits the second dial at 7, and pushes it to 11.

13. user rotates clockwise back to 13.

14. user pulls latch.

As you now notice, we are saving lots, and lots of time by never touching the first disk, and moving the second disk in strategic amounts. (intervals of 4) After you have finished every combo for you first guess at the first number, rotate clockwise several times to reset the disks, and begin on your next guess for the first number, which is probably 5. This method is also very economical because absolutely no damage is done to the lock, and you can safely retrieve the working combo in the least amount of time.

If ever any of you have the time, try hacksawing one open. A vise is very helpful, but the metal armor of the lock is not too tough to get through. Just go in a big circle and hacksaw the face off. Use an old screwdriver to pry the dial off.

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

Impact of Artificial "Gummy" Fingers on Fingerprint Systems

Impact of Artificial "Gummy" Fingers on Fingerprint Systems

Tsutomu Matsumoto
Hiroyuki Matsumoto
Koji Yamada
Satoshi Hoshino

Graduate School of Environment and Information Sciences
Yokohama National University
79-7 Tokiwadai, Hodogaya, Yokohama 240-8501, Japan

ABSTRACT

Potential threats caused by something like real fingers, which are called fake or artificial fingers, should be crucial for authentication based on fingerprint systems. Security evaluation against attacks using such artificial fingers has been rarely disclosed. Only in patent literature, measures, such as "live and well" detection, against fake fingers have been proposed. However, the providers of fingerprint systems usually do not mention whether or not these measures are actually implmented in emerging fingerprint systems for PCs or smart cards or portable terminals, which are expected to enhance the grade of personal authentication necessary for digital transactions. As researchers who are pursuing secure systems, we would like to discuss attacks using artificial fingers and conduct experimental research to clarify the reality. This paper reports that gummy fingers, namely artificial fingers that are easily made of cheap and readily available gelatin, were accepted by extremely high rates by particular fingerprint devices with optical or capacitive sensors. We have used the molds, which we made by pressing our live fingers against them or by processing fingerprint images from prints on glass surfaces, etc. We describe how to make the molds, and then show that the gummy fingers, which are made with these molds, can fool the fingerprint devices.

Keywords: biometrics, fingerprint, live and well detection, artificial finger, fingerprint image.

1. INTRODUCTION

Biometrics is utilized in individual authentication techniques which identify individuals, i.e., living bodies by checking physiological or behavioral characteristics, such as fingerprints, voice, dynamic signatures, etc. Biometric systems are said to be convenient because they need neither something to memorize such as passwords or something to carry about such as ID cards. In spite of that, a user of biometric systems would get into a dangerous situation when her/his biometric data are abused. That is to say, the user cannot frequently replace or change her/his biometric data to prevent the abuse because of limits of biometric data intrinsic to her/himself. Therefore, biometric systems must protect the electronic information for biometrics against abuse, and also prevent fake biometrics.

We have focused on fingerprint systems since they have become widespread as authentication terminals for PCs or smart cards or portable terminals. Some of fingerprint systems may positively utilize artificial fingers as substitutes in order to solve the problem that a legitimate user cannot access, for example, when s/he gets injured on her/his fingertip in an accident.12 Some other cases include dry fingers, worn fingers, and other fingers with a low-quality fingerprint. However, the users of those systems would run a risk because artificial fingers can be stolen and used by other persons if the systems are utilized for a security application. Except for the above-mentioned cases, fingerprint systems generally must reject artificial fingers. In order to reject them, fingerprint systems should take measures to examine some other features intrinsic to live fingers than those of fingerprints. These measures are called "live and well detection 9, 15, 20, 23, 26"and have been proposed mainly in patent literature.13 Although a number of fingerprint systems have come into wide use, it is not clear whether or not these measures are actually implemented in commercial fingerprint systems. Moreover, as far as we know, security evaluation against attacks using fake fingers has been rarely disclosed. In connection, some researchers reported, in 1998, that four of the six fingerprint systems with optical devices accepted silicone fingers.19 After that, some measures against silicone fingers may have been taken in fingerprint systems. But, someone might object that fingerprint systems with capacitive devices can prevent fake fingers, so they are secure.

Previous to our experiments described in this paper, we made silicone fingers, and then checked fingerprint systems with them. From the results, we ascertained that all the systems with a capacitive sensor and some systems with an optical sensor could reject the silicone fingers. Also, we confirmed that an inked fingerprint on a paper could be accepted by one of fingerprint systems. A series of our preliminary experiments brought up a question whether or not "live and well" functions are actually implemented in commercial fingerprint systems. Finally, we have carried out experiments with artificial fingers to inquire into the fact.9,16,27-29 In this paper we discuss security evaluation of fingerprint systems, especially for its resistance against artificial fingers. Here, the term "fake fingers" may be widely used to refer fingers which are used to deceive fingerprint systems. However, we use the term "artificial fingers" to refer fingers which are artificially produced because "fake fingers" may include fingers which are modified from live fingers. In addition, we use the term "live fingers" to mean fingers which are part of living bodies.

2. FINGERPRINT SYSTEMS

2.1 Fingerprint Systems

The principle of fingerprint systems is schematically illustrated in Fig. 2.1. In an enrollment process, the system captures finger data from an enrollee with sensing devices, extracts features from the finger data, and then record them as template with a personal information, e.g. a personal identification number (PIN), of the enrollee into a database. We are using the word "finger data" to mean not only features of the fingerprint but also other features of the finger, such as "live and well" features. In an identification (or verification) process, the system captures finger data from a finger with sensing devices, extracts features, identifies (or verifies) the features by comparing with templates in the database, and then outputs a result as "Acceptance" only when the features correspond to one of the templates.

Most of fingerprint systems utilize optical or capacitive sensors for capturing fingerprints.3, 10, 14, 22 These sensors detect difference between ridges and valleys of fingerprints. Optical sensors detect difference in reflection. Capacitive sensors, by contrast, detect difference in capacitance. Some systems utilize other types of sensors, such as thermal sensors, ultrasound sensors.6, 15, 24 In this paper we examine fingerprint systems which utilize optical or capacitive sensors.

2.2 A Risk Analysis for Fingerprint Systems

Generally, fingerprint systems capture images of fingerprints, extract features from the images, encrypt the features, transmit them on communication lines, and then store them as templates into their database. Some systems encrypt templates with a secure cryptographic scheme and manage not whole original images but compressed images. Therefore, it is said to be difficult to reproduce valid fingerprints by using the templates. Some systems are secured against a so-called replay attack in which an attacker copies a data stream from a fingerprint scanner to a server and later replays it, with an one time protocol or a random challenge response device. We are here not concerned with the security for the communication and database of fingerprint systems, assuming that they are secure enough by being protected with some encryption schemes. In this section, we would like to address security of fingerprint scanners.

When a legitimate user has registered her/his live finger with a fingerprint system, there would be several ways to deceive the system. In order to deceive the fingerprint system, an attacker may present the following things to its fingerprint scanner.

(1) The registered finger: The highest risk is being forced to press the live finger against the scanner by an armed criminal, or under duress. Another risk is being compelled the legitimate user to fall asleep with a sleeping drug, in order to make free use of her/his live finger. There are some deterrent techniques against these crimes. Combination with another authentication method, such as by PINs, passwords, or ID cards, would be helpful to deter the crimes.20 Furthermore, a duress control enables the users to alarm "as under duress" with a secret code or manner, which is different with a PIN or usual manner respectively. Combining a duress control with a fingerprint system would provide a helpful measure to apply to someone for protection. Similarly, a two persons control, namely a two persons rule, where the authentication process requires two persons properties, i.e., fingerprints, or would be helpful to deter the crimes.

(2) An unregistered finger (an imposter's finger): An attack against authentication systems by an imposter with his own biometrics is referred to as non-effort forgery.26 Commonly, accuracy of authentication of fingerprint systems are evaluated by the false rejection rate (FRR) and the false acceptance rate (FAR).1, 2 The FAR is important indicator for the security against such a method as with an unregistered finger. Moreover, fingerprints are usually categorized as "loops," "whorls," "arches," and others. If an attacker knows what category of the registered finger is, an unregistered finger of which pattern is similar to the registered one would be presented to the scanner. In this case, the probability of the acceptance may be different from the ordinary FAR. From this point of view, the accuracy of authentication for the system should be evaluated not only, as usual, for fingers throughout the categories of fingerprints but also for fingers within each category. Another attacker may modify his fingerprint by painting, cutting, or injuring his own fingertip. However, it is thought to be very difficult to deceive the fingerprint system with such a modified finger. The reason for this is that fingerprints are so random the attacker cannot identify which patterns should be modified. Ordinarily, ten-odd features, such as ridge's and valley's distinctive patterns are used for the authentication.

(3) A severed fingertip from the registered finger: A horrible attack may be performed with the finger which is severed from the legitimate user's hand. Even if the finger severed from the user's half-decomposed corpse, the attacker may use, for the wrong purpose, a scientific crime detection technique to clarify its fingerprint.6 In the same way as the above-mentioned registered finger, combination with another authentication method, or a duress/two-persons control would be helpful to deter these crimes. The detection whether the finger is alive or not would be helpful as well.

(4) A genetic clone of the registered finger: In general, it is said that identical twins do not have the same fingerprint, and neither would clones. The reason is that fingerprints are not entirely genetically determined, and rather determined in part by its pattern of nerve growth into the skin. As a result, this is not exactly the same even in identical twins. However, it is also said that fingerprints are different in identical twins, but only slightly different. If the genetic clone's fingerprint is similar to the registered finger's, an attacker may try to deceive fingerprint systems by using it. Now is the time when we must keep a close watch on such possibility with genetic engineering,

(5) An artificial clone of the registered finger: More casual attacks against fingerprint systems may use an artificial finger. An artificial finger can be produced as a printed fingerprint with a copier or a desk top publishing (DTP) technique as well as forged documents. If an attacker can make a mold of the registered finger directly modeling it, s/he can produce an artificial finger with some materials. Even if not, s/he may make a mold of the registered finger modeling its residual fingerprint at second hand, so as to produce an artificial finger. And, if an attacker can make an artificial finger which can deceive a fingerprint system, one of countermeasures against the attack obviously is the detection whether or not the finger is alive. Again, combination with another authentication method, or two-persons control would be also helpful to deter the crimes.

(6) The others: In some fingerprint systems, an error in authentication may be caused by making noise or flashing a light against the fingerprint scanner, or by heating up, cooling down, humidifying, impacting on, or vibrating the scanner outside its environmental tolerances. Some attackers may use the error to deceive the system. This method is well-known as a "fault based attack," and may be carried out with above-mentioned attacks. Furthermore, a fingerprint image may be stood out in strong relief against the scanner surface, if we spray some materials on the surface. The image would be the residual fingerprint of a registered finger. In this case, a bald thing or finger, regardless of alive or not, which are pressed on the surface, may be accepted by the fingerprint system.

As fingerprint systems come into wide use, they are still more exposed themselves to a risk of casual attacks. Apart from duress or other crimes, our great concern, in this paper, is the possibilities of attacks with artificial fingers.

2.3 Dishonest Acts with Artificial Fingers

In this section, on the assumption that artificial fingers can be accepted by fingerprint systems, we discuss dishonest acts against the system with the artificial fingers. Several patterns of dishonest acts, with artificial fingers, in a fingerprint system are shown in Table 2.1. In this table, L(X) and L(Y) denote live fingers of persons X and Y respectively. A(X) and A(Y) denote artificial fingers which are molded after L(X) and L(Y) respectively. A(Z) denotes artificial fingers which are created artificially without being molded after live fingers. There may be at the total of 25 possible combinations because we can enroll and verify each of L(X), L(Y), A(X), A(Y) and A(Z) in the system. However, we show 15 in 25 combinations and focus on 5 combinations, from (1) to (5), in the table on the following assumptions;

Table 2.1 Several patterns of dishonest acts with artifical fingers in a fingerprint system

Verification / Identification Enrollment L(X) A(X) L(Y) A(Y) A(Z) L(X) (1) (2) - * - - A(Y) - - (3) (4) - A(Z) - - - - (5)

Only X can enroll fingers in the system, but X cannot enroll Y's live finger L(Y), the fingers must be enrolled with a genuine X's PIN, and X can obtain and enroll A(Y) and A(Z) in the system. The case (1) is the proper way in the system. The case (2) or (5) is also the proper way in some systems which positively utilize artificial fingers. However, we discuss dishonest acts of artificial fingers regarding the cases from (2) to (5) as dishonest ways. The possible dishonest acts are:

Some other persons than X can pretend, in the system, to be X by presenting artificial fingers in all the cases of (2), (4) and (5), and Y can pretend, in the system, to be X by presenting her/his own fingers L(Y) in the case (3).

In addition, X can deny the participation showing by means of evidence that her/his own live fingers cannot be accepted by the system, when the dishonest act was detected in the cases (3), (4) and (5).

Most discussion on dishonest acts with artificial fingers have mainly focused on the case (2). However, it should be noted that the dishonest acts, which correspond to the cases (4) and (5), can be done if artificial fingers are accepted by the system. The cases (3), (4) and (5) can be probably prevented by a practical measure that enrollment is closely watched to prevent using artificial fingers. Moreover, dishonest acts which correspond to the cases, from (2) to (5), never occur if the system can successfully reject artificial fingers.

Accuracy of authentication of fingerprint systems are commonly evaluated by the false rejection rate (FRR) and the false acceptance rate (FAR).1, 2 In Table 2.1, the case (1) and the case indicated by the sign '*' correspond to those which are commonly evaluated by the FRR and FAR in its ordinary performance test for live finger samples, respectively. It is important that the acceptance rate for the cases from (2) to (5) should be evaluated if the system cannot perfectly reject artificial fingers.

3. EXPERIMENTS

3.1 How to make Artificial Fingers

There are several major ways to make an artificial finger of a given live finger, as shown in Fig. 3.1. First of all, an impression must be obtained from the live finger. The fingerprint image of the impression is mostly the lateral reversal, i.e., transposed with the others. The captured image of the gummy finger in Fig. 4.2 is very similar to that of the live fingerprint images of a live finger and a gummy finger, which were displayed by the system with Device H (equipped with a capacitive sensor), are shown in Fig. 4.3. While some defects are observed in the image (right side) of a gummy finger, both of the images are similar to each other. Here, the reason why we do not present the image of a silicone finger is that it lannot be accepted by the system with Device H.

[2 pages missing. See: http://www.itu.int/itudoc/itu-t/workshop/security/present/s5p4.pdf]

How to make an Artifical Finger

Materials:

Bag of Free Molding Plastic 35g and Gelatin Sheet 30g

To make the mold:

Put Free Molding Plastic in Water to soften and form into small ball

Press Live Finger into Plastic ball

Wait Ten minutes

This creates a mold of the live finger

To Make the Finger:

Add 30cc's of boiling water to 30g's of Gelatin and stir in a glass jar, takes about 20 minutes

Pour Gelatin into plastic finger mold

Put it in a refrigerator to cool for about 10 minutes

Presto: The Gummy Finger

4.1.2 Acceptance Rates of the Artificial Fingers

The results of the experiments for the artificial fingers, which were cloned with molds, are shown in Fig 4.4. It was found through the experiments that we could enroll the gummy fingers in all of the 11 types of fingerprint systems. It was also found that all of the fingerprint systems accepted the gummy fingers in their verification procedures with the probability of 68-100%.

4.2 Cloning from a Residual Fingerprint

4.2.1 Artificial Fingers

Figure 4.5 (a) shows the outside appearance of the mold which we used in our experiments. Figure 4.5 (b) shows a photograph of the gummy finger which was produced from a residual fingerprint on a glass plate, enhancing it with a cyanoacrylate adhesive. We applied a technique for processing printed circuit boards to the production of the molds for cloning the gummy fingers. The fingerprint image of the gummy finger, which was displayed by the system with Device H (equipped with a capacitive sensor), is shown in Fig. 4.6.

4.2.2. Acceptance Rates of the Artificial Fingers

The results of the experiments for an artificial finger, which was cloned from a residual fingerprint, are shown in Fig. 4.7. As a result, we could enroll the gummy finger in all of the 11 types of fingerprint systems. It was found that all of the fingerprint systems accepted the gummy finger in their verification procedures with the probability of more than 67%.

4.3 Discussions

The number of samples in the experiments is so small that we cannot compare performance of the fingerprint systems. However, the number of samples is enough for us to see evidence that the gummy fingers could be accepted by commercial fingerprint systems. Based on our analysis, these variations may be caused by deformation of gummy fingers. We found that some of artificial fingers were damaged while being heated by the fingerprint sensors in the experiments. Some of the sensors frequently heated up when repeating verification in a short period. We think that the number of acceptance will increase if we pause for cooling every time after verification. We mentioned, in section 3.2, that the gummy fingers can be modified their shape to fit the scanning area. Accordingly, we cut the gummy fingers to fit the sensing area for some devices. This might cause decrease of errors in positioning the gummy fingers. Another reason why the number of acceptance varies is that we allowed retrying in enrollment. Finally, all of gummy fingers could be enrolled in the end in our experiments, even if the systems employ some protection. Also, the number of acceptance of live fingers is greater than that of gummy fingers for some systems that may employ so-called live and well detection.

We have investigated the difference in characteristics of live, gummy and silicone fingers. While silicone fingers were impossible to measure, the moisture and electric resistance of the gummy fingers could be measured as shown in Table 4.1. We used a moisture meter, and a digital multimeter (range: from 0 to 40 Mohms). According to this comparison, gummy fingers are more similar to live fingers in their characteristics than silicone fingers. The compliance was also examined for live and gummy fingers as shown in Fig. 4.8. Here, the compliance indicated by the change in resonance frequency (i.e., tactile sensor output) as the function of the pressure (i.e., pressure sensor output). In brief, Fig. 4.8 shows that the live finger is softer than the gummy finger. We found that these fingers are clearly different in compliance.8

If "live and well" detectors can clearly distinguish their moisture, electric resistance, transparency or bubble content (i.e., bubble rich material or not) between live fingers and gummy fingers, fingerprint systems can reject gummy fingers. Also, detection of compliance would be helpful for preventing gummy fingers. Furthermore, some of measures which have been proposed in patent literature may be useful in preventing gummy fingers.

5. CONCLUSIONS

In this paper, we illustrated a risk analysis for fingerprint systems. The risk analysis revealed that there are many attack ways to deceive the systems, even if their templates and communication are protected by a secure measure. Conventional arguments tend to focus on a question how to detect use of artificial fingers, which derive from live fingers of legitimate users. However, as we pointed out, there can be various dishonest acts using artificial fingers against the systems. We also pointed out that artificial fingers can be made not only of silicone but also of gelatin, and examined 11 types of fingerprint systems whether or not they accept the gummy fingers. Consequently, all of these systems accepted the gummy fingers all in their enrollment procedures and also with the rather higher probability in theirverification procedures. The results are enough for us to see evidence that artificial fingers can be accepted by commercial fingerprint systems. The objection will no doubt be raised that it is very difficult to take an impression of the live finger from a legitimate user without the cooperation of her/him. Therefore, we demonstrated that the gummy fingers made from residual fingerprints can be accepted by all of the 11 systems.

After we started this study, we come to know by the published book, that Dutch researchers reported that an artificial finger, which was made of silicone rubber, putting saliva on its surface can be accepted by fingerprint systems with capacitive devices. Their study and ours share certain similarities in that both intend to encourage the suppliers and users of fingerprint systems to reconsider security of their systems. While their study is seen to be of use in designing fingerprint systems, unfortunately, details of the experimental conditions have not been described.

As we mentioned, a user of biometric systems cannot frequently replace or change her/his biometric data because of limits of biometric data intrinsic to her/himself. For example, gelatin, i.e., an ingredient of gummies, and soft plastic materials are easy to obtain at grocery stores and hobby shops, respectively. The fact that gummy fingers, which are easy to make with cheap, easily obtainable tools and materials, can be accepted suggests review not only of fingerprint systems but also of biometric systems. Manufacturers and vendors of biometric systems should carefully examine the security of their systems against artificial clones. Also, they should make public results of their examination, which lead users of their system to a deeper understanding of the security. The experimental study on the gummy fingers will have considerable impact on security assessment of fingerprint systems.

Declaration: We would like to stress that this study intends to encourage the suppliers and users of fingerprint systems to reconsider security of their systems, not to criticize libelously fingerprint systems for their security, and not to compare their performance.17 For this purpose, we have collected, for our experiments, as many fingerprint systems commercially vailable as we could, and have detailed their specification and the experimental conditions.

ACKNOWLEDGMENT

The authors thank Yuldko Endo for her assistance in the experiments. This research was partially supported by MEXT Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research 13224040 (Tsutomu Matsu

REFERENCES

1. AfB and ICSA: 1998 Glossary of Biometric Terms, Association for Biometrics and International Computer Security Association, to be referred at URL: http://www.afb.org.uk/ (1998).

2. ANSI A9.84-2001, Biometrics Information Management and Security (2001).

3. Bahuguna, R.D. and Corboline, T.: Prism fingerprint sensor that uses a holographic optical element, APPLIED OPTICS, Vol. 35, No. 26 (1996).

4. Bicz, W. et al.: Fingerprint structure imaging based on an ultrasound camera, http://www.optel.com.pl/article/english/article.htm, July 1 (2000).

5. Bovelander, E. and van Renesse, R. L.: An Introduction to Biometrics, in Chip Card: Trump Card? Consequences for investigation and prosecution 2nd Edition, Knopjs, F. and Lakeman, P. J. eds., Politie, Amsterdam (1999).

6. Collins, C. G.: Problems and Practices in Fingerprinting the Dead, FINGERPRINT SCIENCE: How to Roll, Classify, File and Use Fingerprints, Copperhouse Bublishing Company, ISBN 0-942728-18-1, Chapter 11, pp. 131-165:(1998).

7. ECOM: Report by the Working Group on PersonalAuthentication (WG6) Ver. 1.0, Electronic Commerce Promotion of Japan (ECOM), April 27 (1998).

[2 pages missing.]

How to make a mold

We make molds, which are made by photolithographic processes, of live fingers, and then make artificial fingers, which are made of gelatin, with the molds.

We make molds by the following procedures.

Making a mask

(1) Press the live finger against a glass plate so as to make its residual fingerprint.

(2) Enhance this latent fingerprint with a cyanoacrylate adhesive. If you put the adhesive with the glass plate intolairtight container, it will keep for quite a long time. Wait for a minute. The fingerprint will stand clearly outlined against the glass plate.

(3) Capture an image of the fingerprint with a digital microscopic camera (e.g., KEYENCE; VH-6300, 900k pixels). Set the fingerprint image right side left, and make its contrast better with an image processing software (e.g., Adobe; Photoshop 6.0).

(4) Print the fingerprint image in a transparency sheet with an inkjet printer (e.g., Canon; BJ-F800, 1200x600dpi). It can be used for a mask.

Making a mold

(1) Prepare a photo sensitive coated PCB, and fix the mask so that its printed surface is attached on the PCB. Exose an UV light source for 6 minutes to copy the mask to the photo resist layer of the PCB. Caution: The UV light are harmful for your eyes and you shouldn't look it many time, or any at all.

(2) Develop the PCB to remove all the unnecessary photo resist, and expose the unnecessary copper.

(3) Etch the developed PCB to remove all the unnecessary copper, and get only the fingerprint. Finally, the mold for artificial fingers can be obtained.

Making an artiflicial finger

We make artificial fingers by the following procedures.

(1) Add boiling water (30cc) to solid gelatin (24 grams) in a bottle and mix up them. Cap the bottle and wait till mixture forms a gel as it cools, and then melt to form a sol by heating with a microwave oven. After that, cool down to form a gel and heat up to form a sol several times to reduce bubbles, if necessary. As a result of this procedure, a liquid in which immersed gelatin at around 40 wt.% (a sol) will be obtained.

(2) Prepare a mold, and drip the liquid onto the mold. Remove carefully bubbles which are formed around the base of the mold, if necessary.

(3) Put this mold into a refrigerator to cool, and wait for about ten minutes till the liquid changes back to a gel. Peel carefully the gel (i.e., artificial finger) from the mold.

Repeat (2) and (3) to make the gummy fingers.

APPENDIX B

B. Fingerprint Systems

The list of fingerprint devices and the procedures for the fingerprint systems are shown in APPENDIX B.1, and B.2, respectively.

(Omitted)

Note 1: DFRTM is a registered trademark of Compaq Computer Corporation. Windows TM is a registered trademark of Microsoft Corporation. FingerTIP TM is a registered trademark of Siemens AG (Infineon Technlogies AG). U.ar.UTM is a registered trademark of DigitalPersona, Inc. SecuGenTM and SecuDesktopTM are a registered trademarks of SecuGen Corporation. EthenticatorTM is a registered trademark of Ethentica Inc.

Note 2: All contents of this table are based on our investigation on attached catalogs, web sites in the references, etc.

[Chart image (355KB)]

B.2 The Procedures for the Fingerprint Systems

The followings give the procedures for each fingerprint device.

Device A: We enroll a finger as a template in the system. And then, enrollment will be finished if the template can be verified in a subsequent verification. We used a logon sequence, which is a function of the system, to know whether the system accepts the finger or not. Fingerprint images are displayed on the screen of the PC both in enrollment an in verification.

Device B: We enroll a finger four times in the system to make a template. We can check whether the template in good condition by activating a verification function. We used this function to know whether the system accepts the finger or not Fingerprint images are not displayed on the screen ofthe PC.

Device C: We enroll a finger three times in the system to make a template. And then, we exit the application of the fingerprint system. We can encounter a verification procedure when we start the application again. We used this procedure to know whether the system accepts the finger or not. Fingerprint images are displayed on the screen of the PC only in enrollment.

Device D: We enroll a finger four times in the system to make a template. We used a logon sequence, which is a function of the system, to know whether the system accepts the finger or not. Fingerprint images are displayed on the screen of the PC only in enrollment.

Device E: We enroll a finger as a template in the system. We can check whether the template is in good condition by activating a verification function. We used this function to know whether the system accepts the finger or not. Fingerprint images are displayed on the screen of the PC both in enrollment and in verification.

Device F: We enroll a finger four times in the system to make a template. We used a logon sequence, which is a function of the system, to know whether the system accepts the finger or not. Fingerprint images are displayed on the screen of the PC only in enrollment.

Device G: The system is the same as that of Device C.

Device H: We enroll a finger three times in the system to make a template. We can check whether the template is in good condition by activating a verification function. We used this function to know whether the system accepts the finger or not. Fingerprint images are displayed on the screen of the PC both in enrollment and in verification.

Device I: We enroll a finger four times in the system to make a template. We can check whether the template is in good condition by activating a verification function. We used this function to know whether the system accepts the finger or not. Fingerprint images are displayed on the screen of the PC only in enrollment.

Device J: We enroll a finger two times in the system to make a template. We used a logon sequence, which is a function of the system, to know whether the system accepts the finger or not. Fingerprint images are displayed on the screen f the PC only in enrollment.

Device K: We enroll a finger three times in the system to make a template. We used a logon sequence entering the user's ID, activating a verification function, to know whether the system accepts the finger or not. Fingerprint images are displayed on the screen of the PC only in enrollment, but not in verification.

From Bruce Schneier's Crypto-Gram, 15 May 2002

Fun with Fingerprint Readers

Tsutomu Matsumoto, a Japanese cryptographer, recently decided to look at biometric fingerprint devices. These are security systems that attempt to identify people based on their fingerprint. For years the companies selling these devices have claimed that they are very secure, and that it is almost impossible to fool them into accepting a fake finger as genuine. Matsumoto, along with his students at the Yokohama National University, showed that they can be reliably fooled with a little ingenuity and $10 worth of household supplies.

Matsumoto uses gelatin, the stuff that Gummi Bears are made out of. First he takes a live finger and makes a plastic mold. (He uses a free-molding plastic used to make plastic molds, and is sold at hobby shops.) Then he pours liquid gelatin into the mold and lets it harden. (The gelatin comes in solid sheets, and is used to make jellied meats, soups, and candies, and is sold in grocery stores.) This gelatin fake finger fools fingerprint detectors about 80% of the time.

His more interesting experiment involves latent fingerprints. He takes a fingerprint left on a piece of glass, enhances it with a cyanoacrylate adhesive, and then photographs it with a digital camera. Using PhotoShop, he improves the contrast and prints the fingerprint onto a transparency sheet. Then, he takes a photo-sensitive printed-circuit board (PCB) and uses the fingerprint transparency to etch the fingerprint into the copper, making it three-dimensional. (You can find photo-sensitive PCBs, along with instructions for use, in most electronics hobby shops.) Finally, he makes a gelatin finger using the print on the PCB. This also fools fingerprint detectors about 80% of the time.

Gummy fingers can even fool sensors being watched by guards. Simply form the clear gelatin finger over your own. This lets you hide it as you press your own finger onto the sensor. After it lets you in, eat the evidence.

Matsumoto tried these attacks against eleven commercially available fingerprint biometric systems, and was able to reliably fool all of them. The results are enough to scrap the systems completely, and to send the various fingerprint biometric companies packing. Impressive is an understatement.

There's both a specific and a general moral to take away from this result. Matsumoto is not a professional fake-finger scientist; he's a mathematician. He didn't use expensive equipment or a specialized laboratory. He used $10 of ingredients you could buy, and whipped up his gummy fingers in the equivalent of a home kitchen. And he defeated eleven different commercial fingerprint readers, with both optical and capacitive sensors, and some with "live finger detection" features. (Moistening the gummy finger helps defeat sensors that measure moisture or electrical resistance; it takes some practice to get it right.) If he could do this, then any semi-professional can almost certainly do much much more.

More generally, be very careful before believing claims from security companies. All the fingerprint companies have claimed for years that this kind of thing is impossible. When they read Matsumoto's results, they're going to claim that they don't really work, or that they don't apply to them, or that they've fixed the problem. Think twice before believing them.

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Explosives and Pyrotechnics

Explosives and Pyrotechnics

1. Introduction - Welcome to rec.pyrotechnics

2. Reading rec.pyrotechnics

3. Posting to rec.pyrotechnics

4. Legal Aspects of Pyrotechnics

5. PGI - Pyrotechnics Guild International

6. Pyrotechnic Literature

6a. Fireworks Literature
6b. Fringe Literature
6c. Net-Available Information

7. Frequently Asked Questions

7a. Nitrogen Tri-Iodide, NH3.NI3
7b. Thermite
7c. Dry Ice Bombs
7d. Smoke Bombs
7e. Basic Pyrotechnic Devices
7f. Terminator Bombs, MacGyver, etc.
7g. Match Rockets

8. Commonly Used Chemicals in Pyrotechnics

1. Introduction - Welcome to rec.pyrotechnics

Rec.pyrotechnics is a worldwide newsgroup dedicated to the discussion of fireworks and explosives, mostly concerned with their construction. The readers of rec.pyrotechnics welcome anyone with an interest in the subject, be they experienced or just trying to get started in the hobby.

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If you take the time to find out all the information, and put safety of yourself and others as your highest priority, you will find pyrotechnics an extremely fun and rewarding hobby.

2. Reading rec.pyrotechnics

Often you will see an interesting composition or method posted to rec.pyrotechnics and the temptation is to run out and try it immediately. However, sometimes information posted will contain errors, or omit important safety aspects. Sometimes people will post methods that they heard from some vague source, or that they think should work but haven't tried.

Leave it for a couple of days to see if anyone on the net responds to it. If not, get a printout of it and read it several times to make sure you are completely familiar with it. If you have any questions or corrections for an article, please don't hesitate to post. People on the net would much rather answer a question that may seem "silly" to you, than to have you get hurt.

Also, a complete archive of rec.pyrotechnics is available on the server news.armory.com in its original message format. You can therefore do a search on past articles there and quite probably find the information you are looking for without needing to ask again. To read the archives, first set your news host by setting the NNTPSERVER environment variable to news.armory.com - this is achieved on Unix machines by typing:

setenv NNTPSERVER news.armory.com

You may then start your newsreader in the usual way. Note however that to resume reading news from your local server you must quit the newsreader and reset the NNTPSERVER variable.

3. Posting to rec.pyrotechnics

If you have a composition or a method that has served you well, please share it with the net. Also if you have a question, people will be happy to help you out with it.

However, please remember that you message is going to be read by a lot of people around the world, many of whom may not be as familiar with aspects of your posting as you are. Include all relevant safety information, for example possible mixing and storage hazards, toxicity, expected behaviour of the composition once ignited etc. Also, it is worth keeping in mind that the relevant legal authorities do read rec.pyrotechnics and other newsgroups.

If you post something you haven't tried, be sure to make that clear in your article. This is a good idea when asking questions as well - make sure it is obvious that you are asking a question, rather than posting something you don't know about and hoping someone will correct it.

Read through your article before posting it to make sure that you have covered every aspect, and that there are no errors or ambiguities that could cause people to interpret part of it the wrong way.

4. Legal Aspects of Pyrotechnics

Chances are that many of the procedures involved in pyrotechnics are illegal without a permit where you live. There are generally separate laws regarding storage of chemicals, manufacture of fireworks, manufacture of explosives, storage of fireworks, storage of explosives, use of fireworks and use of explosives.

The laws regarding fireworks may also be split up in terms of the "Class" of fireworks concerned - commonly available fireworks are Class C, while the fireworks typically seen at displays will be mainly Class B, with some Class C. Make sure you know where you stand in terms of the law in your area, and get a permit if necessary.

Make sure that what you are doing will not cause any damage to other people's property, and that there are no innocent bystanders that can get hurt. There are plenty of laws relating to injury or damage to third parties and their property, not to mention lawsuits. We don't want anyone to get in trouble with the law because of anything here.

5. PGI - Pyrotechnics Guild International

Pyrotechnics Guild International, Inc is a non-profit organization of professional and amateur fireworks enthusiasts: builders, shooters & watchers.

Membership includes a quarterly journal and an annual convention.

For membership information, contact:

PGI
Ed Vanasek
18021 Baseline Ave
Jordan, MN 55352

You need either three recommendations from random people or one recommendation from a PGI member. Dues are $25/yr., US.

Another newsletter is American Fireworks News, monthly, miscellaneous news, technical articles, ads, $19.95/yr.

AFN
Star Rt Box 30
Dingmans Ferry, PA 18328

6. Pyrotechnic Literature

6a. Fireworks Literature

These are extremely good books on the subject of pyrotechnics, and are really a must-read for the serious pyrotechnics enthusiast. Many others that are not listed here are also worth reading - check out your local library, Books In Print, Pyrotechnica Publications etc. for more references.

Conkling, John A.: "Chemistry of Pyrotechnics: Basic Principles & Theory" (Marcel Dekker, New York, NY 1986. (ISBN 0-8247-7443-4).)

See also Conkling's articles in Scientific American (July 1990, pp96-102) and Chemical & Engineering News (June 29, 1981, pp24-32).

Shimizu, Takeo: "Fireworks - The Art, Science and Technique", 2nd ed. (Pyrotechnica Publications, 1988. (ISBN 0-929388-04-6).)

Lancaster, Ronald: "Fireworks, Principles and Practice" (Illus.) 2nd ed. (Chemical Publishing Company Incorporated, 1992. (ISBN 0-8206-0339-2).)

The 1st edition is also available, and is much cheaper. The 2nd edition only has about 20 new pages and some minor corrections, but is about $50 more expensive.

Shimizu often directs people to Lancaster rather than giving the detailed information himself.

Weingart, George W.: "Pyrotechnics" (Illus.) (Chemical Publishing Company Incorporated, 1968. (ISBN 0-8206-0112-8).)

Davis, Tenney L.: "Chemistry of Powder and Explosives"

More references are available from Books In Print.

By far the best sources for all books on fireworks are:

Quantum Tech Publications
208 Franklin Blvd
Mahomet, IL 61853
(217) 586-5999

Pyrotechnica Publications
2302 Tower Drive
Austin, TX 78703

6b. Fringe Literature

These books usually deal with home-made explosives etc. more than fireworks, and are usually dubious at best. Most are not worth buying, especially if you are more interested in the pyrotechnics field.

Much of the information in them is inherently unsafe - many of the books deal with field-expedient methods, and assume that some casualties are acceptable along the way. If you want to try anything out of one of these, it is a good idea to ask about it on the net or to someone experienced in pyrotechnics or explosives.

"The Anarchist's Cookbook": this is in "Books in Print" so your local bookstore should be able to get you a copy. Alternatively, you can send $22 (includes postage) to Barricade Books, PO Box 1401, Secaucus NJ 07096. The Anarchist's Cookbook gets a big thumbs down because it is full of inaccurate information.

"Ragnar's Guide to Home and Recreational Use of High Explosives": thumbs down as it is even more inaccurate than The Anarchist's Cookbook.

US Army Technical Manual 31-210 1969 "Improvised Munitions Handbook": The Improvised Munitions Handbook generally gets okay reviews; it contains a whole bunch of recipes for making explosives etc. out of handy chemicals. You can get it from several sources, gun shows, or for $5 from Sierra Supply.

"Poor Man's James Bond Vol. 2": mostly a set of reprints of various books, in small type. It does have Davis' Chem. of Powder and Explosives and what appears to be Vol. 1 and 2 of the Improvised Munitions Handbook series. Vol. 1 of PMJB has a reprint of Weingart's book Pyrotechnics (?)

Here are some sources for the books. Most of these places will send you a catalog with related material.

Loompanics
P.O. Box 1197
Port Townsend, WA 98368

This company sells a wide selection of fringe books on drugs, explosives, war, survival, etc. Catalog $5.

Sierra Supply
PO Box 1390
Durango CO 81302
(303)-259-1822

Sierra sells a bunch of army surplus stuff, including technical manuals such as the Improvised Munitions Handbook. Sierra has a $10 minimum order + $4 postage. Catalog $1.

Paladin Press, P.O. Box 1307 Boulder, CO 80306

Delta Press Ltd, P.O. Box 1625 Dept. 893 El Dorado, AR 71731

Phoenix Systems, P.O. Box 3339, Evergreen CO 80439 Phoenix carries fuse (50 ft/$9), smoke grenades, tracer ammo, dummy grenades. Catalog $3.

U.S. Cavalry, 2855 Centennial Ave. Radcliff, KY 40160-9000 (502)351-1164 Sells all kinds of military and adventure equipment.

Thanks to Ken Shirriff, Phil Ngai, Keith Wheeler, Charles Marshall, Gary Hughes, and others.

6c. Net-Available Information

Articles from rec.pyrotechnics and other miscellaneous pyrotechnic text files are available by anonymous FTP from paradox1.denver.colorado.edu in the directory Anonymous:Text-files:Pyrotechnics: .

The so-called "gopher files", a collection of 4 introductory files on pyrotechnics, are available using a file transfer client called gopher. The sources for gopher are available via anonymous FTP from boombox.micro.umn.edu in the directory /pub/gopher/ .

You can see what it looks like by telneting to consultant.micro.umn.edu and logging in as "gopher". The pyroguide is in the Gopher system under:

Other Gopher and Information Servers/Fun & Games/Recipes/Misc/Pyrotechnics

These files are quite a good introduction to pyrotechnics, including information on the manufacture of fuses and casings.

"The Big Book Of Mischief", commonly abbreviated TBBOM, is available via anonymous FTP from ftp.std.com, and has the file path:

obi/Mischief/tbbom13.txt (version 1.3, 1991) obi/Mischief/tbbom15.txt (version 1.5, 1994)

It can also be obtained through e-mail from dr@ripco.com

This is generally a compilation of articles from many sources such as 'The Poor Man's James Bond' and from here in rec.pyrotechnics. This also comes under the heading of 'Fringe Literature', as many of the items and methods contained in it are of dubious safety and reliability.

7. Frequently Asked Questions

Below are descriptions of several things that are frequently asked about on rec.pyrotechnics - they are not generally of much use in fireworks, but they are here to cut down message traffic on these subjects which have been covered many times before.

First though, here are some safety rules. Read these and memorize them.

1. Mix only small batches, especially when trying something out for the first time. Some mixtures, particularly flash powder, will detonate rather than deflagrate (just burn) if enough is present to be self- confining. It doesn't take much to do this. Small amounts of unconfined pyrotechnic mixtures may damage your hands, eyes or face. Larger amounts can threaten arms, legs and life. The hazards are greatly reduced by using smaller amounts. Also be aware that a mixture using finer powders will generally behave MUCH more vigorously than the same mixture made with coarser ingredients. Many of these mixtures are MUCH more powerful than comparable amounts of black powder. Black powder is among the tamest of the pyrotechnician's mixtures.

2. Many of these mixtures are corrosive, many are very toxic, some will react strongly with nearly any metal to form much more unstable compounds. Of the toxics, nearly all organic nitrates have *very* potent vasodilator (heart and circulatory system) effects. Doses for heart patients are typically in the small milligram range. Some can be absorbed through the skin.

3. Keep your work area clean and tidy. Dispose of any spilled chemicals immediately. Don't leave open containers of chemicals on your table, since accidental spillage or mixing may occur. Use only clean equipment.

4. If chemicals need to be ground, grind them separately, never together. Thoroughly wash and clean equipment before grinding another chemical.

5. Mixing should be done outdoors, away from flammable structures, and where ventilation is good. Chemicals should not be mixed in metal or glass containers to prevent a shrapnel hazard. Wooden containers are best, to avoid static. Always use a wooden implement for stirring. Powdered mixtures may be mixed by placing them on a sheet of paper and rolling them across the sheet by lifting the sides and corners one at a time.

6. Don't store powdered mixtures, in general. If a mixture is to be stored, keep it away from heat sources, in cardboard or plastic containers. Keep all chemicals away from children or pets.

7. Be sure all stoppers or caps, especially screw tops, are thoroughly clean. Traces of mixture caught between the cap and the container can be ignited by friction from opening or closing the container.

8. Always wear a face shield, or at least shatterproof safety glasses. Also wear a dust mask when handling powdered chemicals. Particulate matter in the lungs can cause severe respiratory problems later in life. Wear gloves and a lab apron when handling chemicals. This rule is very important.

9. Make sure there are no ignition sources near where you are working. This includes heaters, motors and stove pilot lights. Above all, DON'T SMOKE!

10. Have a source of water READILY available. A fire extinguisher is best, a bucket of water is the bare minimum.

11. Never, under any circumstances, use metal or glass casings for fireworks. Metal and glass shrapnel can travel a long way, through body parts that you'd rather they didn't.

12. Always be thoroughly familiar with the chemicals you are using. Don't just rely on the information provided with the recipe. Look for extra information - the Merck Index is very good for this, especially regarding toxicity. It can also provide pointers to journal articles about the chemical.

13. Wash up carefully after handling chemicals. Don't forget to wash your ears and your nose.

14. If a device you build fails to work, leave it alone for half an hour, then bury it. Commercial stuff can be soaked in water for 30 minutes after being left for 30, then after 24 hours cautious disassembly can be a valid learning experience. People have found "duds" from shoots that took place over a year ago, having been exposed to rain etc, which STILL functioned when fitted with fresh fuse or disposed of in a bonfire. Even after a 30 minute waiting period (minimum), initial pickup should be with a long- handled shovel.

15. Treat all chemicals and mixtures with respect. Don't drop them or handle them roughly. Treat everything as if it may be friction- or shock-sensitive. Always expect an accident and prepare accordingly, even if all these safety precautions are observed. Several people on the net have gotten stitches, lost fingers, or been severely burned. Some of them were very scrupulous in their safety precautions and had many years' safe experience with pyrotechnics.

7a. Nitrogen Tri-Iodide, NI3.NH3

Nitrogen Tri-Iodide is a very unstable compound that decomposes explosively with the slightest provocation. It is too unstable to have any practical uses, but is often made for its novelty value. Some books describe uses for it in practical jokes etc. but in my experience it has been far too unstable for this to be a feasible idea. Despite its common name, the explosive compound is actually a complex between nitrogen tri-iodide and ammonia, NI3.NH3 (nitrogen tri-iodide monoammine).

Reagents:

Solid Iodine (I2)

Ammonia solution (NH4OH) - Use only pure, clear ammonia. Other solutions, such as supermarket 'cloudy' ammonia, will not give the desired product.

Place a few fine crystals of iodine in a filter paper. The best way to make fine iodine crystals is to dissolve the iodine in a small quantity of hot methanol (care: methanol is toxic and flammable. Heat on a steam bath away from open flame. Use in a well-ventilated area.), and then pour the solution into a container of ice-cold water. This will cause extremely fine iodine crystals to precipitate out. Drain off the liquid and wash the crystals with cold water. If this method is not possible, crush the iodine as finely as possible.

Then filter ammonia through the iodine crystals. Use a small amount of ammonia and refilter it, to reduce wastage. The smaller the pieces of iodine the better the result, as more iodine will react if it has a greater surface area. You will be able to recognise the NI3.NH3 by its black colour, as opposed to the metallic purple of the iodine.

Reaction: 3I + 5NH OH ---> 3NH I + NI .NH + 5H O

2(s) 4 (aq) 4 (aq) 3 3(s) 2 (l)


When the NI3.NH3 decomposes it will leave brown or purple iodine stains. These are difficult to remove normally, but can be removed with sodium thiosulphate solution (photographic hypo). They will fade with time as the iodine sublimes.

Safety aspects:

NI3.NH3: Despite the common misconception presented in many articles on NI3.NH3, it is NOT safe when wet. I have personally witnessed NI3.NH3 exploding while at the bottom of a 1000Ml plastic beaker full of water. NI3.NH3 can not be relied on not to decompose at any time. Even the action of air wafting past it can set it off.


If you want to dispose of some NI3.NH3 once you have made it, it

can be reacted safely with sodium hydroxide solution. NI3.NH3 is a potent high explosive, and should be treated with respect. Its power, instability and unpredictability require that only small batches be made. Do not make more than you can immediately use. Never attempt to store NI3.NH3.


The detonation of NI3.NH3 releases iodine as a purple mist or

vapour. This is toxic, so avoid breathing it. Toxicity data on NI3.NH3 is unknown, but I think it is safe to assume that eating or touching it would be a bad idea anyway.

Iodine: Iodine sublimes easily at room temperature and is toxic - ingestion of 2-4g of iodine can be fatal. Make sure you are in a well-ventilated area, and avoid touching the iodine directly.

Ammonia: Again, use in a well-ventilated area as ammonia is not particularly pleasant to inhale. Ammonia is corrosive, so avoid skin contact, especially if using relatively concentrated solution. If skin contact occurs, wash off with water. Don't drink it.

7b. Thermite

The thermite reaction is a redox reaction that produces a lot of heat and light. In its usual configuration, temperatures can exceed 3000 degrees C, and molten iron is produced. It is therefore mainly used for welding, and by the Army in incendiary grenades.

There are many possible configurations - basically it is the reaction between a reactive metal and the oxide of a less reactive metal. The most common is as follows:

Aluminium powder, Al (coarse) 1 volume part or 3 weight parts

Iron (III) Oxide, Fe203 1 volume part or 1 weight part

A stoichiometric mixture will provide best results.

The powders are mixed together and ignited with a suitable fuse. Many people use magnesium ribbon - I don't recommend this, as magnesium ribbon is not all that easy to light, and quite prone to going out due to oxygen starvation. A much better fuse for thermite is a common sparkler. The mixture should be shielded with aluminium foil or similar to prevent sparks from the sparkler igniting the thermite prematurely.

Reaction: 2Al + Fe O ---> Al O + 2Fe + lots of heat

(s) 2 3(s) 2 3(s) (l)


The mixture can be varied easily, as long as the metal oxide you are using is of a less reactive metal than the elemental one you are using, e.g. copper oxide and zinc. Adjust the ratios accordingly.

Safety aspects:

Reaction: Make sure you no longer need whatever you are igniting the thermite on - the reaction will melt and/or ignite just about anything. If you ignite the thermite on the ground, make sure the ground is DRY and free of flammable material. If the ground is wet a burst of steam may occur, scattering 3000 degree metal everywhere.

Be careful when igniting the thermite - use adequate shielding to prevent premature ignition. Don't get close to the mixture once ignited - it has been known to spark and splatter. Don't look at the reaction directly. It produces large amounts of ultraviolet light that can damage the eyes. Use welder's goggles, 100% UV filter sunglasses or do not look at all.

Aluminium: Chemical dust in the lungs is to be avoided. As always, wear a dust mask. Make sure the environment you are working in is dry - aluminium powder can be dangerous when wet. Fine aluminium dust is pyrophoric - this means it can spontaneously ignite in air. For this reason aluminium powder with a large particle size is recommended.

Iron Oxide: This is not directly toxic, but any particulate matter in the lungs is not good. Again, the dust mask is important.

7c. Dry Ice Bombs

Dry ice bombs are devices that use pressure to burst a container, producing a loud report and limited shock effects. No chemical reaction is involved - the container, usually a plastic 2-litre soft drink bottle, is burst by the physical reaction of solid carbon dioxide, CO2, subliming into gas. As the CO2 sublimes, the pressure builds up and eventually the container ruptures.

The method is very simple - some dry ice is added to the container, some water is added (about 1/3-1/4 full) and the cap is screwed on tight. Within a short time the container will burst, usually extremely loudly. The water can be omitted if a longer delay time is required. It is reported that these devices can be manufactured using liquid nitrogen instead of dry ice, and no water. This is not recommended as the delay time will be substantially shorter.

Safety aspects:

Device: NEVER use glass or metal containers! I cannot stress this enough. Dry ice bombs are extremely unpredictable as to when they will go off, and a glass or metal container is very very dangerous to both the constructor and anyone else in the vicinity. Plastic bottles are much safer because the fragments slow down quicker, and thus have a smaller danger radius around the device. Plastic fragments are still very nasty though - don't treat the device with any less caution just because it is made of plastic.

There is no way to tell how long you have until the dry ice bomb explodes - it can be anywhere from a few seconds to half an hour. Never add the water or screw the cap on the container until you are at the site you want to use it and you are ready to get away.

Never go near a dry ice bomb after it has been capped. If a dry ice bomb fails to go off, puncture it from long range with a slingshot, BB gun, by throwing stones at it or similar. Some indication of timing can be achieved by semi-crushing the container before capping - once the container has expanded back to its original shape it is no longer safe to be anywhere near.

Don't forget that the temperature of the day and the size of the dry ice pieces will affect the delay length - don't assume that delay times will be similar between bombs. A hotter day or smaller pieces of dry ice (i.e. greater surface area) will create a shorter delay. Remember, even though no chemical reaction occurs you can still be legally charged with constructing a bomb.

Dry Ice: Humans will suffocate in an atmosphere with a carbon dioxide concentration of 10% or more. Use in a well-ventilated area. Dry ice typically has a temperature of about -75 degrees C, so do not allow it to come into contact with the skin, as freezer burns and frostbite will occur. Always use gloves or tongs when handling dry ice.

7d. Smoke Bombs

A relatively cheap and simple smoke mixture is potassium nitrate (saltpetre) and sugar. The mixture can be used in powder form, but much better results are achieved by melting the components together. The mixture should be heated slowly until it just melts - beware of excessive heating as the mixture will ignite. Keep a bucket of water next to you in case the mixture does ignite, and peform the entire operation outdoors if possible.

The mixture does not have to be completely liquid, the point at which it has about the viscosity of tar or cold honey is about right. While it is semi-liquid it can be poured into cardboard or clay molds, and a fuse inserted. Once it cools and hardens it will be similar to a stick of hard candy, hence its common name of "caramel candy".

Safety aspects:

Mixture: The mixture burns very hot. Don't go near it once ignited, and don't assume that whatever the mixture is contained in or standing on will survive. Try not to breathe the smoke as fine particles in the lungs are not good for them.

7e. Basic Pyrotechnic Devices

Stars

A star is an amount of pyrotechnic composition that has by some means been fashioned into a solid object. These are the bright burning objects you see ejected from Roman candles, shells, mines etc.

Usually the pyrotechnic composition is mixed with a binder and a small amount of solvent to make a doughy mass which is then fashioned into stars, although some use has been made of so-called pressed stars, which involve the composition being pressed extremely hard into a mold with a hydraulic press or similar, thus doing without the solvent.

The usual methods are to make the composition into a flat pancake or sausage and cut it up into stars ("cut stars"), pushing it through a tube with a dowel, cutting it off at regular intervals ("pumped stars") or rolling cores of lead shot coated in fire clay in a bowl of the composition ("rolled stars").

Cutting and pumping produce cubic or cylindrical stars, while rolling produces spherical stars. Pumped stars are the most suitable for Roman candles, because it is easy to get the correct width. The stars are often dusted with a primer, usually meal black powder, to ensure ignition.

Shell

The shell is a sphere or cylinder of papier mache or plastic which contains stars and a bursting charge, together with a fuse. It is fired into the air from a tube using a lift charge, usually black powder. The time the fuse takes determines the height above the ground at which the shell will burst, igniting and spreading the stars.

Rocket

A rocket consists of a tube of rocket fuel, sealed at one end, with a constriction, or nozzle, at the other end. The burning fuel produces exhaust gases, which, when forced out the nozzle, produce thrust, moving the rocket in the other direction.

Solid fuel rockets can be one of two types - end-burning, where the fuel is solidly packed into the tube, so the fuel can only burn at one end - and core-burning, where there is a central core longitudinally through the fuel, so the fuel can burn down its full length. At the top of the rocket can be a smoke composition, so it is possible to determine the maximum height ("apogee") of the rocket, or a burst charge and stars.

Lance

A lance is a thin paper tube containing a pyrotechnic composition. These are most commonly used in large numbers to make writing and pictures at fireworks shows - this is referred to as lancework. The tube is thin so burns completely away as the lance burns, so as not to restrict light emission from the burning section.

Gerb

These are pyrotechnic sprays, often referred to as fountains or flower- pots. They consist of a tube full of composition, sealed at one end and with a nozzle at the other, similar to a rocket. Unlike a rocket, they are not designed to move anywhere, so all the emphasis is on making the nozzle exhaust as long as pretty as possible, with large amounts of sparks, nice colours etc.

The sparks are produced by metal powders or coarse charcoal in the gerb composition, with coarse titanium powder being the chemical of choice. Gerb compositions in a thin tube set up in a spiral arrangement are used as wheel drivers, for spinning fireworks e.g. Catherine wheels.

Waterfall

These are similar to gerbs, but usually do not spray as far. They are usually mounted horizontally in banks of several tubes, placed some distance above the ground. When ignited, the effect is like a brilliant waterfall of sparks.

Mine

These have a mortar arrangement similar to that for a shell, but are not designed to send out a shell. The lift charge sends up a bag full of stars and a bursting charge, with a short fuse set to spread the stars relatively close to the ground. Because the bag has much less strength than a shell, the stars are not spread as far, and the final effect is that of a shower of stars moving upward in an inverted cone formation.

7f. Terminator Bombs, MacGyver, etc.

The first thing to remember when watching pyrotechnics in movies, TV shows etc. is that it is exactly that, not real life. There is almost always no point in trying to extrapolate what MacGyver, for example, does back to reality, with respect to pyrotechnics at least. Reese making those bombs from supermarket supplies in Terminator was bogus, as are pretty much any information on explosives you receive from movies. Sorry.

8. Commonly Used Chemicals in Pyrotechnics

Ignitibility and Reactivity

The secret of making a good pyrotechnic mixture is _homogeneity_. The better the contact with the oxidiser and the fuel is, the fiercer the composition. Finely ground fuels and oxidisers are essential for good stars and propellants. The required intimacy also implies that mixing can never be thorough enough.

For consistent results, use the same sieves and same mixing methods. Wet mixing is sometimes more efficient than stirring the dry composition; moreover, it is almost always safer. Star compositions and granulated powders can almost always be mixed with water or some other solvent.

Good, homogenous compositions also ignite more easily. Large amounts of loose, fine powder of almost any pyrotechnic composition represent a large fire and explosion hazard. But when such a powder is kneaded and cut into stars or carefully pressed in a tube, it will take fire easily and burn smoothly.

This is the pyrotechnist's dilemma: the best compositions are often the most dangerous ones, too. But not always. There are chemicals and compositions with much worse safety records than today's compositions have. In the list of pyrotechnic chemicals below, the most notorious ones have been indicated.

Aluminium, Al -- Fuel

This is used in many compositions to produce bright white sparks or a a bright white flame. There are many grades of aluminium available for different spark effects. Most pyrotechnic compositions that involve sparks use aluminium, e.g. sparklers, waterfalls etc.

Ammonium Nitrate, NH4NO3 -- Oxidiser

This is used very infrequently in pyrotechnics due to its hygroscopic nature and the fact that it decomposes even at relatively low temperatures. Even when dry, it reacts with Al, Zn, Pb, Sb, Bi, Ni, Cu, Ag and Cd. In the presence of moisture it reacts with Fe. It reacts with Cu to form a brissant and sensitive compound. It is best not to use any bronze or brass tools when working with ammonium nitrate.

Ammonium perchlorate, NH4ClO4 -- Oxidiser

Used as an oxidiser in solid rocket fuels, most notably the solid booster rockets for the Space Shuttle. Using it in a composition improves the production of rich blues and reds in the flames. As with any ammonium salt, it should not be mixed with chlorates due to the possible formation of ammonium chlorate, a powerful and unstable explosive.

Anthracene, C14H10 -- Smoke Ingredient

Used in combination with potassium perchlorate to produce black smokes.

Antimony, Sb -- Fuel

The metal is commonly used in the trade as 200-300 mesh powder. It is mainly used with potassium nitrate and sulphur, to produce white fires. It is also responsible in part for the glitter effect seen in some fireworks.

Antimony trisulphide, SbS3 -- Fuel

This is used to sharpen the reports of pyrotechnic noisemakers, e.g. salutes. It is toxic and quite messy.

Barium salts -- Colouring Agents

Used to colour fires green. several are used:

Barium carbonate, BaCO3 -- Colouring Agent, Stabilizer

As well as being a green flame-colourer, barium carbonate acts as a neutralizer to keep potentially dangerous acid levels down in pyrotechnic compositions.

Barium chlorate, Ba(ClO3)2.H2O -- Colouring Agent, Oxidiser

Used when deep green colours are needed. It is one of the more sensitive chemicals which are still used, best to avoid if possible, but if used it should be in combination with chemicals which will reduce its sensitivity.

Barium nitrate, Ba(NO3)2 -- Colouring Agent/Enhancer, Oxidiser

Not very strong green effect. Used with aluminium powder to produce silver effects. Below 1000C aluminium burns silvery-gold, characteristic of aluminium-gunpowder compositions. Above 1000C it burns silver, and may be achieved using barium nitrate. Boric acid should always be used in compositions containing barium nitrate and aluminium.

Barium oxalate, BaC2O4 -- Colouring Agent

Sometimes used, generally in specialised items with magnesium.

Boric acid, H3BO3 -- Stabilizer

This is a weak acid, often included in mixtures that are sensitive to basic conditions, notably those containing aluminium.

Calcium carbonate, CaCO3 -- Stabilizer

Used as a neutralizer in mixtures that are sensitive to both acids and bases, for example chlorate/aluminium flashpowder.

Calcium oxalate, CaC2O4 -- Colour Enhancer

Used to add depth to colours produced by other metal salts.

Carbon black/Lampblack, C -- Fuel

A very fine form of carbon made by incompletely burning hydrocarbon fuels. Commonly used in gerbs to produce bright orange sparks.

Charcoal, C -- Fuel

Probably the most common fuel in firework manufacture, it is not pure carbon and may contain in excess of 10% hydrocarbons. Indeed, the purer carbon charcoals (e.g. activated charcoal) do not necessarily give better results, and are very often worse than less pure grades. It is included in the vast majority of pyrotechnic compositions in various mesh sizes and grades, or as a component of black gunpowder.

Clay

This is an important material for making fireworks, not as a reagent but to perform various practical applications such as blocking or constricting the ends of tubes for crackers or rocket nozzles, or coating lead shot prior to the application of star composition when making rolled stars.

Copper and copper compounds -- Colouring Agents

Used to add both green and blue colours to flames:

Copper metal, Cu -- Colouring Agent

Both the bronze and electrolytic forms are occasionally used, but easier methods are available for the same effect.

Copper acetoarsenate, C4H6As6Cu4O16 -- Colouring Agent

Commonly called Paris Green, this chemical is toxic but used to produce some of the best blue colours in combination with potassium perchlorate.

Copper carbonate, CuCO3 -- Colouring Agent

This is the best copper compound for use with ammonium perchlorate for production of blue colours. Also used in other blue compositions.

Copper (I) chloride, CuCl -- Colouring Agent

Cuprous chloride is probably the best copper compound for creating blue and turquoise flames, and it can be used with a variety of oxidizers. It is non-hygroscopic and insoluble in water, but it is oxidised slowly in air.

Copper oxides, CuO/Cu2O -- Colouring Agent

Used for many years for blues, but needed mercury chloride to intensify colours. Seldom used.

Copper oxychloride -- Colouring Agent

Occasionally used in cheap blue compositions.

Cryolite, Na3AlF6 -- Colouring Agent

Also known as Greenland spar, this is an insoluble sodium salt. Sodium salts are used to produce yellow colours, but as sodium salts generally absorb water this tends to be a problem. By using cryolite this problem is surmounted.

Dextrin -- Binder

Dextrin is a type of starch that is added to many firework mixtures to hold the composition together. It is the most commonly used binder in pyrotechnics.

Gallic acid (3,4,5-trihydroxybenzoic acid)

This is used in some formulas for whistling fireworks. Whistle mixes containing gallic acid are generally the most sensitive of the whistling fireworks, with high sensitivity to both friction and impact when used with chlorates, but cannot be used with perchlorates either. There are safer alternatives for whistle compositions.

Gum arabic (Gum Acacia) -- Binder

An example of the various wood-resin-based adhesives used to bind firework compositions. Others used include Red Gum and Gum Copal.

Gunpowder

Black powder is the mainstay of pyrotechnics. At a basic level it is a mixture of potassium nitrate, charcoal and sulphur. However, simply mixing these ingredients together will not produce proper black powder. It merely produces a much milder version, which itself is used extensively in pyrotechnics, and is commonly called meal powder.

True black powder takes advantage of the extreme solubility of potassium nitrate by mixing the very fine milled ingredients into a dough with water, then using strong compression to force the water out of the mixture, so that tiny crystals of potassium nitrate form in and around the particles of the other ingredients. This produces a product that is far fiercer than the simple meal powder.

Hexachlorobenzene, C6Cl6 -- Colour Enhancer

Used as a chlorine donor in coloured compositions that require one. Rarely used, with PVC, Saran and Parlon being preferred.

Hexachloroethane, C2Cl6 -- Smoke Ingredient

The basic ingredient in many military smoke formulas. Not often used with inorganic smoke mixtures, except those containing zinc.

Iron, Fe -- Fuel

The metal filings are used mainly in gerbs to produce sparks. Iron will not keep well in firework compositions, and so it is generally pre-coated with an oil/grease. One simple method is to add 1 gram of linseed oil to 16 grams of iron filings, mix, and boil off the excess oil.

Linseed oil -- Stabilizer

Used to coat metal powders in order to prevent them from oxidation, both prior to use and in the firework composition. Polyesters are used in commercial fireworks, but linseed oil remains an accessible option to the amateur.

Lithium carbonate, Li2CO3 -- Colouring Agent

Used to colour fires red. It has no advantage over strontium salts for the same purpose.

Magnesium, Mg -- Fuel

Used to produce brilliant white fires. Should be coated with linseed oil/ polyester resin if contained in a composition which is not to be used immediately, as it may react with other components of the mixture. The coarser magnesium turnings are sometimes used in fountains to produce crackling sparks. Magnesium-aluminium alloys give similar effects, and are rather more stable in compositions.

Parlon -- Colour Enhancer, Binder

Parlon is a chlorine donor, and a key ingredient in many coloured stars. It is a chlorinated isoprene rubber, chlorine content 66%. It interferes with burning less than PVC or saran, and can be used as a binder. It is soluble in methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) and partially in acetone. Compositions made with parlon and acetone or MEK are nearly waterproof.

Phosphorus, P -- Fuel

Phosphorus is rarely used in pyrotechnics today, except for a few specialized applications. It was used commonly many years ago, but as the hazards associated with its use became known it dropped out of use.

Phosphorus comes in several forms, of which the red and the white/yellow varieties were used. Red phosphorus (used in the strikers on the side of matchboxes) is the more stable form, while white phosphorus (used by the military in incendiary devices) ignites spontaneously in air, and must therefore be stored under water or otherwise protected from the atmosphere. Both forms are toxic.

Polyvinylchloride (PVC) -- Colour Enhancer, Binder

PVC is a commonly used chlorine donor. It is not as good as Parlon for this purpose, but is cheaper and more readily available. PVC is soluble in tetrahydrofuran (THF) but almost all other solvents are useless. Methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) will plasticise PVC to some extent, however.

Potassium benzoate, C6H5CO2K -- Fuel

Used in whistling fireworks, in combination with potassium perchlorate. It must be very dry for this purpose, and should be less than 120 mesh.

Potassium chlorate, KClO3 -- Oxidiser

Originally used very commonly in pyrotechnics, potassium chlorate has gradually been phased out due to its sensitivity, in favor of potassium perchlorate. Mixtures containing potassium chlorate and ammonium salts, phosphorus or anything acidic are particularly dangerous. For this reason mixtures containing potassium chlorate and sulphur are to be avoided, as sulphur (especially the common "flowers" of sulphur) may contain residual amounts of acid that can sensitize the mixture. In general, potassium chlorate should be avoided unless absolutely necessary.

Chlorates have probably caused more accidents in the industry than all other classes of oxidisers together. The reason lies in their sensitivity to acids and their low decomposition temperature. When mixed with an easily ignitable fuel, such as sugar or sulfur, chlorates will ignite from a fingernail striking a wire screen. Moreover, sulfur is often acidic, a fact that has lead to spontaneous ignition of sulfur-chlorate compositions. If you intend to use chlorates, pay extra attention to safety.

Potassium nitrate, KNO3 -- Oxidiser

A very common oxidising agent in pyrotechnics, potassium nitrate is one of the chemicals you should never be without. From its essential use in gunpowder to general applications in most fireworks, you will find potassium nitrate used wherever a relatively mild oxidiser is required. In fireworks it should pass 120 mesh, but can be used at 60 mesh. The fine powder should be used as soon as possible after grinding or milling as it will soon cake and have to be re-ground.

Potassium perchlorate, KClO4 -- Oxidiser

More expensive than potassium chlorate, but a better oxidising agent and far safer. In almost all mixtures that previously required the chlorate, safety factors have led to its replacement with potassium perchlorate. It should be used in place of the chlorate wherever possible.

Potassium picrate

This is a shock sensitive compound that is used in some whistle formulas. While safer than gallic acid formulas in this respect, care should be taken to keep it away from other metals such as lead, because some other metallic picrates are extremely sensitive.

Saran -- Colour Enhancer, Binder

Saran is another plastic chlorine donor. It is most commonly encountered in the form of the cling wrap used to protect foodstuffs. It is slightly soluble in tetrahydrofuran (THF) and will be plasticised by methyl ethyl ketone (MEK).

Shellac -- Binder

Shellac is an organic rosin commonly used as a binder where a water- soluble binder would be inappropriate. It can be bought at hardware stores in the form of lustrous orange flakes, which can be dissolved in boiling ethanol.

Sodium salts -- Colouring Agents

Sodium salts are sometimes used in place of the corresponding potassium salts, but this is uncommon due to their hygroscopic nature. They rapidly absorb water from the air, which can ruin a pyrotechnic composition. In particularly dry environments they can be used without too much trouble, and are therefore used in places like Egypt due to the relative cheapness of some of the salts with respect to the potassium ones. Sodium salts are also used as colourising agents, producing a characteristic orange flame.

Strontium salts -- Colouring Agents

Used to colour flames a brilliant red:

Strontium carbonate, SrCO3 -- Colouring Agent, Retardant

Used often for producing red colours, and as a fire retardant in gunpowder mixtures.

Strontium oxalate, SrC2O4 -- Colouring Agent, Retardant, Stabilizer

As for strontium carbonate, generally, but suffers from greater water content.

Strontium nitrate, Sr(NO3)2 -- Colouring Agent, Oxidiser

This is the most commonly used strontium salt, because it provides the most superb red colour available. Best results will be acheived if the strontium nitrate is anhydrous.

Sulphur, S -- Fuel

Another basic fuel in pyrotechnics, sulphur is used in many pyrotechnic formulas across the range of fireworks, most obviously in black powder. It is recommended to avoid the common "flowers" of sulphur, as they contain residual acid. If they cannot be avoided, a small amount of a neutralizer such as calcium carbonate should be added if acid is likely to present a problem.

Titanium, Ti -- Fuel

The coarse powder is safer than aluminium or magnesium for producing sparks, and gives rise to beautiful, long, forked blue/white sparks. Fantastic for use in any spark composition, especially gerbs.

Petroleum jelly (Vaseline) -- Stabilizer

Very occasionally used to protect metal powders e.g. iron by coating them with a thin film of petroleum jelly.

Zinc, Zn -- Fuel, Smoke Ingredient

Zinc metal is used in what are known as zinc spreader stars, which produce a very nice effect that looks like a green glowing cloud. Also used in several smoke formulas, due to the thick clouds of zinc oxide that can be produced.

SPECIAL CAVEATS

AVOID:

Mixing chlorates with: acidic ingredients, sulphur or sulphides, ammonium salts, phosphorus, pitch or asphalt, gum arabic solution.

Mixing picric acid with: lead or lead compounds, almost any other metal.

Mixing ammonium nitrate with metals especially copper.

Mixing nitrates with aluminium WITHOUT boric acid



scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

EMP Bomb

Recently there has been a lot of hype based on the EMP - the Electro Magnetic Pulse. On the Matrix we saw these blasting away robots trying to subdue the humans. In real life their uses are often more to do with electronic warfare. The type of pulse I will talk about here is non directional. That is to say the pulse travels out from the device in a circle.

But what is it? Basically it's like a radiowave that when it hits wire generates electricity (I know thats not REALLY it, but this isn't a physics class - besides i'm writing for Americans.) The electronics aren't designed for this sort of surge and burn out. This makes the pulse especially useful against unprotected devices (such as average PC's & CCTV).

Enough of the dull stuff here's how to make it. You need:

1 Aluminium tube.

1 Length of copper wire (enough to wrap around the tube with a bit left over).

Explosive and detonator.

Firstly put the explosives and the detonator into the tube in a standard mid-fuse pattern. Then wrap the wire around the tube from one end to the other making a "circle" of wire at the end (like the TV receivers).

When this is done you detonate the fuse and as the explosion passes down the tube a current is generated down the wire and the pulse is "transmitted" out of that little circle of wire. The size of the pulse depends on the size of the tube and the explosives.

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

How to Make Egg Based Gelled Flame Fuel

by The Unabomber

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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
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EGG BASED GELLED FLAME FUELS WHAT YOU NEED:

85% Petrol
14% Egg Whites
1% Table Salt

LIST OF EQUIPMENT

*Medium sized jar
*Large Bowl
*Something to stir with

N O T I C E

PLEASE! DON'T SMOKE IN THE SAME ROOM WHEN YOU DO THIS. OPEN A WINDOW IN THE ROOM IF YOU CAN. FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS EXACTLY. THIS RECIPE HAS BEEN TESTED AND THIS IS THE BEST WAY TO DO IT. DON'T TAKE SHORTCUTS, AND DON'T EVEN START TO DO THIS UNLESS YOU HAVE ABOUT 1/2 HOUR TO SPARE.

(1) Seperate the egg white from the yolk. (Remove the yolk with a spoon.)

(2) Pour the egg white/s into the jar, and add gasoline.

(3) Add the salt to the mixture and stir until a gel forms (about 5 to 10 minutes).

(4) Cap the jar, and put it in hot (About 65 Degrees) water for about 1/2 hour and then let them cool to room temperature

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

Electrical Time Delay Detonators

Electrical Time Delay Detonators
by mach8r/lynxtor

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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
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You will need:

The bomb
A 9V Battery
A 1.5V light bulb (from a mini Maglite or Radioshack)
A metal rod an inch long about 5mm in diameter
(Analogue) cheap watch or Clock

You will need a clock (an analogue one), and if it doesn't have metallic hands then you will need to put a coating of alfoil or electroplate it or something. Next get a 9V battery and connect it to the main shaft which moves the hands with some wire.

Method 1.

Now connect the other terminal of the battery to a small 1.5V light bulb with the glass smashed off the end of it. Use a long piece of wire so as not to damage the clock or battery in the blast. Don't try turning it on yet or you'll be needing to go down to Radio shack again to get another one, and we all know you don't want to go back there. Now connect the free terminal of the light bulb (via a very long piece of wire) to a small metal rod that conducts electricity. If your clock has a metal face you might want to try insulating the rod or else well, you're screwed. Don't insulate the whole rod though; the hand needs to touch metal to complete the circuit (dumb shit).

You don't want to use anything that is a bad conductor or resistors in this thing because you need the full 9 volts. Now drill a hole that will let the rod fit in nice and snug in the clock face depending on how long you want to wait before KA-FUCKING-BOOOOOM!!!!.

If you want a delay of 5 minutes set the hands to the 12 mark (turn it off) and drill the hole on the five mark, then cut off the seconds hand (so it doesn't blow you to hell before you want). If you want the bomb to blow after an hour or more you will need to cut of the minute hand and drill a hole where you want it to go boom. So if you want 6 hours put a hole in the six. Make sure the hand will touch the rod as it goes around. Don't put it out of reach of the hand or you'll be waiting for a long, long, long time. Also, don't let the hand touch the rod until you're outta there or you'll know about it.

Then connect the battery properly, put the light bulb into the bomb, turn on the clock and RUN. You have as long as you need with this baby.

Method 2.

My friend lynxtor suggested this one.

Basically the same as method 1 except instead of connecting the wire from the battery to the clock hand shaft, you connect it to another small rod drilled in carefully so that the passing metal hand will connect the two terminals. It's a good idea with this one to test it on another light bulb to test if it will work or not
 

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

Cheap Diversion Bomb

by The Vandal

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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
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A diversion bomb isnt actually a bomb at all but it can be used for diversions. Take a small plastic water bottle (the one used here is 16.9 FL OZ) and take the cap off. Fill the bottom of the bottle with about 1 teaspoon of gunpowder. Take the cap and drill a very small hole in the top of it. You can also heat up a sewing needle and use it to melt a hole through the cap. The hole should be large enough to accommodate for a 3-inch long fuse (drill the hole according to your own estimated diameter of the fuse). Make sure the fuse fits tightly into the cap. Screw the cap back onto the bottle. The fuse should be hanging out of the cap at about 1/2 inches on each side. Ignite the fuse, throw the bottle and run. When the bottle explodes the sound it creates can be heard for a great distance (about 7 neighborhood blocks in diameter).

Other uses for this Water Bottle Bomb: The bottleneck can be put into a parking cone (the orange ones you see lying around a school campus) top by inserting it through the bottom. The parking cone acts as a platform for the bottle and when ignited the pressure that is created will send the parking cone flying into the air at a height of about 25 feet high.

Also, instead of using a plastic bottle, you can use a glass bottle. It wont cause such a loud sound, but it will send glass hurling into the air and fast speeds.

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

Ways to get free cable

Today I will cover the most commonly used method of cable
scrambling, that of In-Band gated sync. For the more comatose of
you, I will now present a brief description of how it works and
why it is so commonly used.

The simplest first: It is often used because the boxes are so
damn cheap. The gated sync unscramblers do not even require a
tuner, the whole process is done semi-passively and requires no
internal connections to the TV. Hence, an easy way out for the
cable companies who insult you by thinking all its subscribers
are average dolts, not requiring their attention. (hum...ma bell
must have thought that way once (cough, cough, chuckle...).

The basic workings of the gated sync are as follows:

First, I must define a sync pulse. It is a part of the TV's
video signal which lines the signal up, causing it to come
out all nice and neat so you see a good picture. What gated
sync does is to remove that portion of the signal, and
transmit it on a subcarrier with the rest of the signal.
This results in the scrambled mess you see when you
desperate ones try to watch the playboy channel and your
parents haven't subscribed to it. Now, keep in mind, the
sync portion of the signal is not distorted at all, but
merely transmitted on a slightly diverted frequency. Thus,
it remains in time with the rest of the signal, and needs
only to be recombined with the rest of the signal. This is
much simpler than it may seem. All the circuit must be able
to do is to receive the sync pulses, and retransmit them on
the original frequency, where they will be lined up
properly.
"But" you may say, "isn't that rather difficult?" not at
all, my friends; think of your video modulator: It must
transmit the entire signal, and it is only about 2"*1"*1".
The receiving is simple: the receiver doesn't need to be
able to change channels - the cable companies need only have
their unscramblers set for the channel the box receives on,
because that is the only one it will be necessary to
unscramble.

How to figure out if you have gated sync scrambling:

This method of scrambling is characterized by correct sound,
and a picture that is allllmoooost normal, if you could just
get the vertical hold to work a little more. if you want to
be 100% sure, call up your cable Co's customer help line and
ask. I know this sounds ridiculous, but I called Century
Cable in California for the Pope, and it worked for me. Just
play it cool and say "what kind of scrambling method are you
using?" and I they should give it to you. Incidentally,
Century Cable does use gated sync, for anyone in California
who happens to read this.

Places to get gated sync units:

Well, the best place to look is in the back of electronics
magazines - not the idiot ones like 'Popular Electronics'
(does it even still exist?) but the dedicated electronics
ones- like Radio-Electronics (best) or 73, the Amateur Radio
technical journal.

Here is an address which I got out of Radio Electronics,
August 1985, p.110: Gated sync: kit form, all parts,
instructions, very good, $39. Write to: J&W Electronics,
Inc. p.o. box 800, Mansfield, MA. 02048 Phone: 1 800 227
8529 (Orders) 617 339 5372 (tech. info)

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Pirating Cable TV
Part 2
*****************************************************************

Today we will discuss over the air pay TV scrambling. This is
used widely in many areas without cable, and all of the systems
in use use essentially the same system, that of SSAVI scrambling.

Discussion of SSAVI scrambling: SSAVI stands for Suppressed Sync,
Audio Video inversion. This method of encoding video
transmissions was developed by the Zenith Radio Corporation, who
manufactures the vast majority of legal unscramblers used today
with this method. Suffice to say, SSAVI is the Anti-Christ of
cable pirates. The system involves several less sophisticated
methods combined to produce a severely scrambled signal which is
very difficult to decode without the proper hardware. (ie, a REAL
box.) It is illustrated by the name:

Suppressed Sync:

This is the method discussed in part 1 of this series, only
worse. The sync portion of the signal is not transmitted on
an audio subcarrier, but in lines 1-14 of the picture
information which are not seen on the screen. Hence, the box
must be able to isolate the first 14 lines of video and
extract the information from them.

Audio:

The audio is transmitted on a subcarrier in a similar
fashion as the sync pulses in part 1. If you will remember,
the audio was normal in the suppressed sync method.

Video inversion:

The video signal is randomly inverted at the scrambling
stage, resulting in a negative picture when the signal is
inverted. (yes, like a camera negative.) The indicator for
whether the upcoming frame of video will be inverted is also
sent in the first 14 lines of video, allowing the box to
begin inverting the signal before you see it. All of these
little bits of evilness exist independently of each other.
the signal may have all, none, or any combination of these
things. because of this, the box must be very intelligent.
Also, because the box is used so widely, it must have a
tuner, allowing your local transmitter to select what
channel they are using by tuning the box before they give it
to you. all this makes for a real fun time when you go to
unscramble your signal.

Box Theory:

The suppressed sync signal is transferred from the first few
lines of video transmitted in the first few lines of video,
which, incidentally, are transmitted normally. The box
'sees' these 14 normal sync pulses, and calibrates itself to
reproduce these sync pulses for the rest of the frame of
video. It then inserts these pulses where they are needed in
the signal to produce a normal picture; this recalibration
every frame is necessary, though. Sync pulses occur over 500
times every second, and if the clock were not constantly
revamped, it could get out of sync (Oh God!) with itself.
Audio:

The audio is transmitted on a subcarrier deviated about 15
kHz. All the box does to the audio is retransmit the audio
on the proper frequency.

Video inversion:

The video signal is randomly inverted, but the mode
(inverted vs. normal) can only be switched between frames,
not between fields, making the job of detection and re-
inversion slightly easier.
The box looks at a portion of a line (line 2, I think) and
based on the logic level at a certain point in this line of
video, the box reroutes the signal through an operational
amplifier's inverting input. As a result, a signal received
inverted is now correct, and a frame of video 'seen' as
normal is not routed through the invertor, and sent straight
to the R.F.modulator, which retransmits the corrected signal
to the TV set, usually on channel 3.

Physical description of the Zenith SSAVI decoder:

The box is approx. 11" by 7", and about 2.5" tall, including
rubber feet. It has a round vertical travel pushbutton
switch in the rear left top corner, and in a small metal
label on the top center of the box is engraved Zenith
SSAVI-1. About 1.5" by .75". There are 3 female 'F'
connectors on the left rear, and a 3 pin power connector on
the bottom right rear. The case is brown, with a wood
grained strip running around the horizontal center. A rather
formidable device.

Some interesting features of the SSAVI system:

When used by the Pay-TV companies, (cough cough), because of
the extreme to which the scrambling of the signal is taken,
the system provides more security against the casual
basement cable wizard than any of the other systems in use
today, save those now being implemented by various satellite
transmitters.

These are really mean:

Digital Video transcription, fluctuating transmission
frequency, and other fun stuff.
But that is another file, coming later. In addition to the
complexity of the scrambling, each box is given its own
internal ID number, allowing each box to be addressed by the
transmitter and shut off in the event a customer does not
pay his bill. In addition, each box contains a firmware code
which is constantly being compared to that transmitted by
the station. Hence, a stolen box will not work in another
city, where it cannot be turned off by the normal method due
to the fact that some one may already be using a box
containing the same security code. There are several more
codes stored in the box:
Those which determine the services to which a subscriber is
entitled. (such as optional sporting events, nite life,
etc.) these codes are stored in a volatile memory powered by
a rechargeable battery, to allow reprogramming from the
station. This also means that if the box is stolen and/or
left un-powered for several days, the battery will run down
and the authorization codes will be lost.

Well, as usual, where there is security, there will be security
breakers, and this is no exception. Talk to these people about
getting your own SSAVI box:

Video Electronics
3083 Forest Glade DR.
Windsor, Ontario N8R 1W6
Phone: 519 944 6443

According to them, the box also works with SSAVI cable systems.
This is the REAL thing, made by Zenith. Why do you think you have
to get it through Canada?

Channels these people guarantee the SSAVI box to work on: Ann
Arbor 31, Baltimore 54, Wash. D.C. 50, Chicago 66, Dallas 27,
Minneapolis St Paul 23, San Jose 48, St. Louis 30, Tulsa 41,
Boston 27.

Well, there you have it. they want $130 for the box, and compared
with a $21/month fee it will pay for itself in 6 months. Have a
good time.
**************************************************************
Call: K.A.O.S. :215 465 3593
For questions, I can be reached at these (among others) boards.

-=>later<=-

*****************************************************************

Pirating Cable T.V.
#3
***Cable Converters***
*****************************************************************

First, a plea. I need a recipe for Nitrous Oxide.
(laughing gas.) if anyone knows where I can get one, or has a
file on "how to", !please! contact me at K.A.O.S. 215- 465-3593,
or leave it on a few of the more popular ae lines.
thank you.

*****************************************************************

Cable Converters - Required Knowledge.:

1. Most scrambled cable channels are transmitted either between
channel 13 and channel 14 ('mid-band' transmitting) or below
channel 2 'super-band' transmitting. Thus, if you receive
the cut rate bottom of the line cable service (such as the 3
networks and a few community stations) you may never even
get a chance to see the scrambled channels, let alone try to
unscramble them. Hence, we usher in the <>.
these are nothing new or illegal, mind you; they can be
purchased at radio shack. They were originally intended for
the video cassette recorder owner (that is, the ones that
are sold on the open market.) His rented cable converter and
unscrambler, usually combined in the same TV top box, were
busy faithfully unscrambling and converting to channel 3 the
program he was currently watching. However, if he wanted to
tape something on an !un!scrambled channel that was
transmitted in the mid-band or super-band mode, he was up
the creek, because he had no way to get the signal down to a
frequency his TV or VCR could receive. but if he hooked up
his little radio shack converter, presto! he was set. (Newer
VCR,s come cable ready - but not premium cable ready
unfortunately!)

2. Now is a good time to make clear an important point. Cable
converters do !not! unscramble a scrambled signal, they
merely move it to a frequency the TV / unscrambler / VCR /
whatever, can get a hold of it. There is lots of space
between channels 13 and 14 - it is the dividing line between
VHF and UHF. Here are places in there your TV just can't get
to.
3. Here comes another point: Those of you with 'cable ready'
TV,s think you're home free now, eh? no. While a cable
ready TV will let you view any mid and super-band channels
that you may unknowingly receive, the scrambled ones are
still scrambled. So what do you need now? an unscrambler, of
course.

*****************************************************************

4. It may be necessary to explain what is actually happening in
your boxes that you rent from the cable Co. thus: ----- if
you have bothered to pay extra for any scrambled channels,
you are given an unscrambler and converter by the cable Co.
for which you gladly pay rent in addition to your cable fee.
This is usually a brown box that comes in several styles,
expounded upon below:

Digital with remote:
A small box upon your TV, with a digital display of the
channel you are watching. You have a trusty remote, and zap
away at will.

Knob Style:
A box or non-wireless remote with a large knob on it. It, of
course, selects what channel you are watching.

Switchboard Style:
A 9" x 5" (or so) board with several 3 position vertically
moving switches. What the hell do these do? you'll never
guess.

The kind without any switches:
(Now how will I operate my digital watch?) this is called a
block converter. More on these later.

*****************************************************************

What is going on:
Ahhh, the good part. What happens here is this: No matter
what system you have (except for the last - ignore that for
now.) In some way you select a channel; the cable converter
runs off, finds this channel, and yanks it down to channel 3
(or 2, or 4, whatever your cable co. uses.) where your TV is
waiting for it. (yes, that's why you put your TV on the
same channel and change channels with the knob, remote, or
whatever.) Now, if it's a scrambled channel, and you are
authorized to receive it, the signal is rerouted through a
small un-scrambler. (a note: cable scrambling methods are
piddly little hindrances; for a real bitch of a scrambler
see the SSAVI system, explained in part 2.) the signal is
again spat out at channel 3, and your TV glows happily
away, displaying your mid or super-band channel.

5. At this point, a question may by nudging around your
temporal lobes now. Something along the lines of "How do I
get cable TV without paying for it, dammit??" well, here we
go. you look up that place I mentioned in part II. (address
& phone# at end) just fork over your $30 (or someone else's
credit card) and get one of these nifty little
unscramblers. Now, mind you, the cable Co. wants it's
(your?) money more than you think, and will be rather upset
if they find you doing any of this stuff, so take care.

Here's how to hook up your unscrambler:

First, adjust the unscrambler to receive the channel your TV
is set on to receive a signal from the cable box. Next, send
the output of the real box to the unscrambler, and the
output of the unscrambler to the TV. you're all set! Just
sit back and watch those porn flicks pour in.

6. If you change channels with your TV set, and you don't have
a box, get a cable converter and an unscrambler. Your
service is too basic to rate a converter, so you have to get
one. Just make sure it has some sort of channel selector on
it - all selected channels must be output on the same
channel so the unscrambler can unscramble them. Sorry.

*****************************************************************

7. How to make this much easier on yourself: There is a much
easier way to do all of this stuff, but you sacrifice ease
for legality. That is, even though what you would have done
if I wasn't telling you this was illegal, this is more
illegal. But let's be realistic does anyone give a damn of
any size whatsoever? No of course not.

Therefore:

Beating the cable Co. at their own game is easier than you
would think. Firstly, call up your cable Co.'s customer (hee
hee) service number, and tell them what optional channels
you currently subscribe to, and ask them if you would have
to get a new box if you wanted to add some channels. chances
are they will say no, because most of the boxes have a small
computer in them which can be told over the cable what you
are authorized to receive, (neat, huh?).
This is the same computer which decides whether the channel
you want to watch gets sent to the unscrambler portion of
the box or not. So if they say no, you're in good shape. If
they say yes, you are in a little bit better shape than if
they say no.
If they say no, this means they change your authorizations
inside the box by changing hardware - that is, connecting
sets of wires.

How to change your authorizations:

(yay) First, the hardware boxes - they're easier. According
to some people i've talked to, the cable companies get
highly (very) pissed off if you play with their boxes, so
you have to get hold of one they don't know you have -
remember, they will want your rented box back when you move
and will get unhappy if you have been monkeying with it.
Getting a box: a). Steal one. b). Say somebody stole yours,
your dog ate it, or whatever. c). Find some unethical person
(druggie) who will sell his for a few bucks.

Changing a hardware box:

1. Open the box without destroying it. This can be a real
challenge sometimes. While at the Sheraton Washington (Wash,
D.C.) attending the model UN last year, I stole one from
someone's room and tried to get it apart for about an hour
so we could watch the flicks that night - I gave up, got
drunk, and threw it out of a window - no, it didn't break.
(yes, incidentally, for any - one in the Wash, D.C. area,
there is one in every room of the Sheraton Washington. Good
point - ritzy hotels are great places to get those boxes.)

2. Look for a small set of sockets, such as an integrated
circuit socket without a chip in it. It will have wires in
it instead. If you can't find one of those, look for a dip
switch - these are the same size as an integrated circuit,
fit in an IC socket, and have the same number of switches on
it as pins on one side of the IC socket.

3. Try to correspond the wires or the positions of the
switches with the channels you pay for. These wires or
switches are how the box is programmed - try turning all of
the switches on, and putting all of the wires in, and see if
you get more channels. Conversely, try removing wires and
turning switches off.

*****************************************************************

Cable programmed boxes: -----------------------

These are a bit more difficult. You have to try to separate
the three sections - computer, receiver(converter) and
unscrambler. When you isolate the computer section, just
bypass it completely. Find the output of the converter and
the input of the unscrambler and just hook them together. As
you can probably see, this just does not permit the computer
to have a say in what gets unscrambled - incidentally, this
will work for the hardware boxes, but it is usually pretty
easy to find the little wiring panel/switchboard and you do
not have to figure out what is what inside the unscrambler.

*****************************************************************

Well, I hope this helps, If you desperately need to ask a
question, you can get me at:
K.A.O.S 215 465 3593 or the church at 215 386 0350 pw ataru and I
will be glad to answer.

*****************************************************************

Here's the address I promised:

unscramblers

Warning: this unscrambler will not work with those channels that
make that obnoxious beeping noise. This is a gated sync
unscrambler. To find out if this will work in your area, get that
good 'ol customer service number and call and ask if they use
suppressed horizontal sync as their scrambling method. Yes, they
will tell you!.

J&W Electronics, Inc.
Mansfield, MA.
02048
Phone: 1 800 227 8529 (orders)
617 339 5372 (tech info)

*****************************************************************

Well, thank you for sitting through 350 lines of my ravings. If
you download this, please give it to all. Up with the individual!

*****************************************************************

Now if you'll excuse me, I'm going
to kick back and smoke a Marlboro.

-=> good luck. <=-

*****************************************************************

Additional notes provided by a technically competent but
dissatisfied cable customer:

1. Why do I have to pay $20 per month for the basic
service of network channels and STILL watch more
advertisements (usually for HBO)???

2. When I do take out a mortgage for the premium channels
I find: a). The programming is too late. b). I've seen all
the films before. c). The network channels usually carry
them a fortnight later.

3. It also seems to me that over the air broadcasts are
being reduced in favor of cable; therefore I'm at the mercy
of the cable companies if I'm to get ANY decent reception.

4. Why should I see ugly great cable assemblies draped
around the country-side? What's wrong with the ground or at
least fiber optic?.

5. Basic infringement of my constitutional rights to do
what the hell I like with 'over the air' reception (eg.
satellite HBO) as long as I don't upset my neighbors.

6. Why don't cable convertors and descramblers come with
separate video and audio outputs. Why go to all the trouble
of putting it back on channel 3 or 4, if you have separate
video inputs to your TV equipment. For that matter why not
go the whole hog and have separate R G B and sync?. It would
be nice if someone (or company) sold a fancy tuner that did
all this stuff including a video processing circuit to take
care of on screen programming and of course by no means
least; reconstituting the messed up signal!.

7. Why not have a user interface box at the entry to your
home so that you can cable up as many TV,s as you want?.

Additional info:

New York/ Westchester area CableVision uses Jerrold 7000
Impulse addressable decoders (which mean they reprogram them
from their computer to enable reception). Actually if you
unpower one of these boxes after the setup info. is lost due
to the battery becoming discharged; it reverts to the prevue
channel irrespective of the channel you try to select. After
repowering and waiting some period (sometimes days if your
cable company are slow) it re be re-activated . Thus I guess
the device reverts to the prevue channel if it is used
outside of the cable company's area.

I would be grateful if anybody has any other info. to add,
such as which specific method is used in this area

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Cable descram kit

GATED PLUSE CABE T.V. DESCRAMBLERS. (WILL DESCRAMBLE YOUR PAY MOVE CHANNELS.)

THE KIT INCLUDES ALL THE ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS TO MAKE THE THING WORK *GREAT!!*

YOU HAVE TO BUILD IT, YOU NEED A 15-25 WATT SOLDER IRON, SOLDER (RESION CORE)
SMALL WIRE CUTTERS, AND A GENERAL UNDERSTANDING OF HOW TO SOLDER WELL.

THE KIT IS ONLY $79.95 AND WILL WORK ON MOST CABLE CO. SYSTEMS.

####################### #######################
WILL WORK ON... WILL NOT WORK ON

CENTEL CABLE ROCKFORD CABLE CO.
JONE INERCABLE AMERICAN CABLE CO.
U.S.CABLE SYSTEMS
AND MANY MANY MORE

IF YOU WANT A CABLE DESCRAMBLE KIT PLEASE SEND $79.95 IN MONEY ORDER OR CERTIFIED CHECK TO...

W.S.S.
519 EAST HAWLEY STREET
MUNDELEIN,IL 60060

FOR MORE INFO OR C.O.D. ORDERS PLEASE CALL 312-315-2136

MYSELF OR WEST SHORE SECURITY , IS NOT SUGGESTING OR TELLING YOU IT,S O.K.
TO RECEIVE PREMIUM MOVIE CHANNELS. IT IS UNLAWFUL TO RECDIVE PAY MOVIE CHANNELS
WITHOUT PAYING FOR THEM THRU YOU LOCAL CABLE CO.
###############################################################################

THIS KIT IS SOLD FOR EXPERIMENT USE ONLY AND IS NOT INTENDED FOR CHEATING THE
CABLE COMPANYS... USE AT OWN RISK!!!! WE ARE NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR MISUSE OF THIS KIT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Descrambler for cable box

Let's have a quick show of hands of everybody out there who has
cable TV. Okay, now, everybody who actually their
reception, keep your hands up. Not many, are there? That's what I
thought.

Most videophiles I know have a love-hate relationship with cable
TV: they the selection of channels and the convenience, but
they the mediocre picture quality, the rolling lines, the
static, and the periodic cable outages that only seem to come up
when you're trying to record the last showing of your all-time
favorite film from pay TV.

Can anything be done to improve the quality of cable TV?
Plenty...but unfortunately, most of it has to be done at the
end>, which is the central receiving office of the cable company.
Without a good signal to begin with, the best-quality cable
amplifiers and wires in the world can't bring a decent picture
into your home. In addition, many cable companies operate under-
less-than optimum budget conditions, preventing them from using
state-of-the-art gear, for everything from inadequate line
amplifiers on the telephone pole to shoddy channel-selector boxes
in your home.

There are a couple of things you can look for to help the cable
repairman solve the usual problems: perhaps the biggest is
or video noise, which is generally caused by inadequate signal
levels. Most experts advise that an average tuner needs at least
.1 millivolt of signal to produce an acceptable picture. A little
more, like around .3 mV, is even better. Cable TV companies
routinely use amplifiers in their lines placed at regular
intervals so that people far away from their headquarters will
get reception just as good as the people who live
a block from the head end.

If a little signal is good, then a lot of signal must be even
better, right? Wrong. In VHF/UHF transmissions through cable, the
biggest loss is with the high frequencies, especially channels 25
and up. The cable company's amplifiers use special "tilt"
equalization to help peak these frequencies, which helps reduce
the loss over a long distance. If the cable amps are improperly
adjusted, the lowband channels (2-13) suffer, resulting in a lot
of ghosting and intercarrier interference. The latter is the
typical "buzzing" you hear when bright titles pop on the screen.
Another problem is "tearing," when bright signals streak or smear
from one side of the screen to the other.

You can cut back on the cable line's signal with a inexpensive
device called an . This is an in-line metal barrel
that screws directly between your cable and the tuner input. An
attenuator works by reducing signal strength with an electrical
filter, sort of like using an adjustable spray nozzle on a garden
hose. Attenuators are rated in decibels (dB), and range from as
little as 5 dB all the way to 20 dB and up -- the higher the
number, the more severe the effect. Sometimes, just
the signal to several TV sets or VCRs will help cut down the
signal to a proper level, too, using a multi-output RF splitter,
available for about $20 from Radio Shack and other companies.

If your cable pictures are marred by snow and ghosts, you've
probably got the opposite problem: signals. Radio Shack,
Recoton and several other accessory companies make consumer
VHF/UHF signal amplifiers which can help strengthen weak cable
signals. But it's easy to misadjust these amps and create some of
the problems mentioned above. Experiment carefully, and make sure
the reception is clean on channels to determine the best
setting for your system. This is especially important when
connecting more than two or three devices to one cable signal.

Another common cable TV problem is , which looks
like large horizontal bars rolling through the picture. Usually,
these roll rather slowly, which are a sign of 60 Hz hum (the same
frequency as AC current). Hum in cable systems like this happens
when your house current is grounded differently than the cable
system's current. This visual hum is often accompanied by low-
frequency hum or buzzing in the audio, and is particularly
annoying when heard through full-range speakers.

One solution for this common cable ailment is the , which you can make yourself for less than $5.00.
This fix consists of two 75-ohm to 300-ohm transformers, also
known as "baluns," which are included free with virtually every
VCR to help connect them to older TV sets with 300-ohm jacks. To
make this device, simply connect the four 300-ohm leads together
so that the round 75 ohm terminals are open. The cable TV signal
goes into one end, and the other end goes to your VCR or TV set.
Voila: the hum is gone, since this double-transformer breaks the
cable's ground and isolates it.

With my own local cable signal, I use Sony's EAC-25 [shown in the
photo], which neatly fits a variety of conventional baluns. The
only drawback with this fix is that you'll lose about 3 dB of
signal, which may introduce a small amount of snow in the picture
if your signal is weak to begin with. Another potential problem is
that the 300 ohm wires may pickup stray transmissions in your
area, which means that strong local stations may affect similarly-
numbered channels on the cable. But that's a small price to pay,
considering the immense improvement for the rest of the stations.

Some cheap baluns that don't use transformers may not fix the hum
problem, but there is a company called Gemini Electronics who
manufacturers a direct 75 to 75 ohm "ground breaker" called the
model #CV89. Their address is Gemini Industries, Inc., 215 Entin
Road, Clifton, New Jersey 07014. This device is a more
attractively packaged and is virtually guaranteed to get rid of
the hum from all but the worse cable systems, with a little less
signal loss than the above method.

And there's one more device you can use to get better cable
quality: the telephone. If you're having severe cable reception
problems, make sure your cable company and local utilities are
aware of the situation. Sometimes, a call to the chief engineer of
your local cable company can work miracles. Just as a squeaky
wheel gets the grease, even the best cable TV company in the world
can't fix problems they don't know about.

[Special thanks to reader Bob Katz of New York, NY for providing
some of the background information for this column.]

# # # # # # # # # #

(Portions of the above appeared in the October '88 issue of VIDEO
REVIEW magazine.)

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Get free cable

PAY TV DECODER PLANS:
--------------------
Due to different scrambling systems, you might fit neccesary to change
the range and values of the variable capacitator.

MATERIALS REQUIRED:
--------------
1 Radio Shack mini project box (#270-235)
1 1/4 watt resistor, 2.2k 2.4k ohm (R #71135)
1 75pf - 100pf variable capacitor (Very hard to find!)
2 F61a chassis type coaxialconectrs RS #278-212)
12" No. 12 solid copper wire
12" RS59 coaxial cable

INSTRUCTIONS:
----------
1> Dar a length of No. 12 gauge solid copper wire and twist around a 3/8"
nail or rod to fom a cil of9 turs. Elongate coil to a length of 1 1/2" and form right angle bends on each end.

> Soler thevariabe capacitor to the coil. It doesn't matter where, it DIAGRAM:
still does the sme job. The bet placefor it is in the center with the
adjustment screw facing upard.

Note: Whe it come time toplace col in box, the coil must be insulated from
grounding. This can be done byglueing apiece of ubber to he bottom of the
box, and securing the coil to it.

3> Solder 2 piecs of coppe wire at pints 2 1/2turns from ends of coil and
solder to coaxial chassis connectors, binging lead through hoes in chasss box. Use as little wire as possible.

4> Solder resistor tocenter of col and groundother end tochassis box,
using solder lug and small screw.

5>
Drill 1/2" diamete hold in miniox cover to prmit adjustment of the
variable capacitor from the outside Inspect for istakes and plce cover
on an tighten securely.

6> Place device in line with exising cable on eiher side of theconverter
box ad connect tv set with the short piece of RS59 coaxia cable. Set tv et
to HBE channe.

7> Using a LASTIC screwdriver, adjust the variable capacitoruntil picture
tuns in. ENJOY!!!!! Themini box
-------------------------------------
| |
| coil |
| \ |
| / |
| \---cpper wire--[[[[[ F1a connector (cable i)
| 2.2k .25w / |
ground |---------------## (var. apacitor |
| resistor \
| /---copper wire--[[[[ F16a connector (cale out)
| \ |
| |
| coil |
| |
------------------------------------

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

Getting HBO or The Playboy Channel for free

This is a method just learned on how to
get HBO or Playboy channel for free. The only requriments is a Viacom
(whoops) is a Scientific Atlanta Cable hook up with remote. I think the
are avaible on request from Viacom or somthing like 2 bucks a month.
Well anyways if its the same the buttons on the remote should be PROG
RCL AUTH Off arrows and a numeric keypad. now all you do is first turn
to the channel after the one you want selected. then on the reciving box
hold down the off and down arrow key together. On the box the led
display should be wacked but the channel should remain the same. Now
while holding the buttons down push the down arrow on the remote and the
channel should come in unscrambled. Cute trick

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

Cracking School Networks

We all start somewhere. Some of us start collecting outdated programs in hopes of being able to 'hack' anything with the click of a mouse. Others start in the 'hacker' rooms, asking questions about every little thing, without even bothering to try a search engine. In writing this article I am assuming that you are capable of teaching yourself. That you can look up things for yourself. I am also assuming that you have already started your search for knowledge, and at this point ready. I am also assuming that you have a better reason for cracking into your school's network than to change your grades. Maybe I am just assuming too much :). School networks are very ideal for beginners. You can work your way from the inside, default installations are very popular with schools, teachers can be unbelievably ignorant, and school sucks, so why not? Let's begin....


Section 1: Accessing the Shared Network

Computer class (if you have one) is of course a good place to start. Your computer class will undoubtedly use a windows operating system (not saying this is always the case, but usually...) so let's start from there. Usually these computers have two rights, user and administrator rights. So our first goal here is to jump from user(the privileges you currently have) to administrator privileges. If the operating system is Windows 9.x then we will look for the *.pwl file for the administrator account. This will be labeled according to the admin username. You'll find this in the windows directory. Just sneak in a floppy disk during class and copy the file to the floppy. Then take the file home and use a pwl cracker to crack the file (if you use brute force, make the settings lower case letters with 1-10 characters, but I'd suggest first trying a dictionary crack. Just collect yourself a few word lists). It'll take a while to crack the password so you will have to be patient. If the operating system is Windows XP then that just makes it even easier. Just grab a Windows 2k CD (download one off kazaa or overnet, if you don't have a copy) and sneak it into class. Place the CD in and boot up the computer.Then start the Win2k Recovery Console, which is a troubleshooting program. This will allow you to operate as administrator without even having to bother with the password. So now that you have administrator privileges go to "Network Neighborhood" and take a look through the network. Copy a few addresses (anything that seems interesting), and if the computers used are Win9.x, when you go home you can load up your internet browser and type "file://[target address]" to gain access. This is network access, but not the kind that will allow you to change your grades (unless the software the teachers use for accessing/modifying/deleting student records happens to be installed on the computer, and the password just conveniently happens to be the same password that the teacher uses on the windows administration account....which is not entirely far fetched). If the computer you are using is Win2k (Windows 2000) then you can try going to the site below to get a tool to crack the account....

http://www.lostpassword.com/windows-xp-2000-nt.htm (which also works for nt and xp)

p.s: If you don't have a computer class, then you can try the computers at the library.


Section 2: Network Exploitation

Now let's talk network operating systems (NOSs). If your school uses Windows workgroups as a NOS, then the method described above would be your method in. Most likely, if the NOS is not windows workgroups, then it is Novell Netware. So now lets get into novell. Novell Netware is a server-based operating system for networks. Novell runs off a version of DOS called dr-dos (also known as Caldera DOS, since it was created by Caldera Systems Inc). It also runs off a protocol called IPX/SPX (Internetwork Packet eXchange/Sequenced Packet eXchange), which is very TCP/IP compatible (the later versions of novell run off a protocol based off ipx/spx known as NCP, Netware Core Protocol). Now in novell netware there are four different kind of rights given. There is user which gives access to //public and some other basic files. There is superuser, which is the access given to teachers. With this access they can view and delete student accounts whenever neccessary, but they can not delete, create, or change accounts. There is supervisor, which is the access administrators give themselves to work off of. And finally there is console, which is the highest rights one could gain on a novell network. Now since there have already been many articles written on novell network infiltration (and I'm in a lazy mood) I am now going to point you in the direction of articles that I had posted up from a previous article on a very similar subject (exactly the same subject actually, but targetted at a specific school network)...

Novell Netware v1.x-4.x: http://www.geocities.com/anti_dcss/novell_faq.zip

Novell Netware v3.12-4.x: http://www.geocities.com/anti_dcss/novzero.zip

Novell Netware v5.x: http://www.geocities.com/anti_dcss/hack_novell.zip

There is also AppleTalk, which may be implemented in order to integrate the Macintosh computers with the rest of the network, but it isn't really neccessary to exploit AppleTalk so I won't get into it.

Now let's get into exploiting the network from the outside. If your school has a website, resolve the ip of the site and scan the network for other servers (i.e. open up a scanner and scan xxx.xxx.xxx.1-xxx.xxx.xxx.254). Use LANguard if you are running windows. The router will usually be *.1. Now if you scan this you will find either/both telnet (23) or snmp (161). If telnet is open then you can exploit the fact that all telnet sessions are unencrypted by using a tool like either Juggernaut or Hunt to hijack a session to sniff out sensitive information (like passwords of course). SNMP is protected by community strings, but in many cases these are set as default, which is "private". If not you can use a community string brute force program (for example SolarWinds) to break into the router. Once inside the router, you can easily use the access to bridge into the rest of the network. There will also be other servers you can try gaining access to bridge into the network. Web servers (port 80) are not important(unless you want to deface them), but ftp and pop3 servers can be cracked and used to bridge into the network. For ftp servers you can run network scanners to find vulnerabilities, and for pop3 servers you can look up scripts and see what might work (depends on the operating system the server is installed on). You need to organize the way you proceed with this crack however. Don't find and exploit vulnerabilities in the same night. Spread it out. Follow these three steps...Research, Plan, and Execute. This is no one day job. You need to be very patient or you will be caught. You also need to do this as late as possible (two or three o' clock in the morning is usually a safe time). Also you will want to bounce off proxies as much as possible. Better yet, for the tools you don't either have to compile or install, run them from the current location instead of off your computer. Most of the other tools needed should allow you to bounce off proxies/wingates. Remember, whether you are breaking in from the outside or the inside, to be cautious. Being paranoid is not a bad thing. After all, what you are doing IS against the law. Good luck ;).

Another Thing: If the teachers at your school use a program called TSIS to manage student records, then usually there will also be a TSIS remote login server on the network. Using a scanner you should be able to pick up on this. The address is usually...

http://tsis.(county name).k12.(state initials).us

If you happen to crack one of the teacher accounts, you can use this to change your grades from the comfort of your own home (not that I'm supporting such activities =) ).

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

Make any phone a pay phone

$$$$$$$$$$-=>MAKING YOUR PHONE<=-$$$$$$
$$$$$$$$$$-=>INTO A CHEESEBOX <=-$$$$$$

/=\TYPED BY:SIR KNIGHT/=\

A CHEESEBOX(NAMED FOR THE TYPE
OF BOX THE FIRST ONE WAS FOUND IN)IS A
TYPE OF BOX WHICH WILL, IN EFFECT, MAKE
YOUR TELEPHONE A PAY-PHONE.....THIS IS
A SIMPLE, MODERNIZED, AND EASY WAY OF
DOING IT....

INSIDE INFO:THESE WERE FIRST USED
BY BOOKIES MANY YEARS AGO AS A WAY OF
MAKING CALLS TO PEOPLE WITHOUT BEING
CALLED BY THE COPS OR HAVING THEIR
NUMBERS TRACED AND/OR TAPPED......

HOW TO MAKE A MODERN CHEESE BOX

INGREDIENTS:
------------

1 CALL FORWARDING SERVICE ON THE
LINE

1 SET OF RED BOX TONES

THE NUMBER TO YOUR PREFIX'S INTER-
CEPT OPERATOR(DO SOME SCANNING FOR
THIS ONE)

HOW TO:
-------

AFTER YOU FIND THE NUMBER TO
THE INTERCEPT OPERATOR IN YOUR PREFIX,
USE YOUR CALL-FORWARDING AND FORWARD
ALL CALLS TO HER...THIS WILL MAKE YOUR
PHONE STAY OFF THE HOOK (ACTUALLY, NOW
IT WAITS FOR A QUARTER TO BE DROPPED
IN)...YOU NOW HAVE A CHEESE BOX...
IN ORDER TO CALL OUT ON THIS LINE:YOU
MUST USE YOUR RED BOX TONES AND GENER-
ATE THE QUARTER DROPPING IN...THEN,YOU
CAN MAKE PHONE CALLS TO PEOPLE...AS FAR
AS I KNOW, THIS IS FAIRLY SAFE, AND
THEY DO NOT CHECK MUCH...ALTHOUGH I
AM NOT SURE, I THINK YOU CAN EVEN MAKE
CREDIT-CARD CALLS FROM A CHEESEBOX
PHONE AND NOT GET TRACED...

ENJOY, AND DON'T GET CAUGHT

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What you can do to a pay phone (get money)

THE ABC'S OF PAYPHONES PART 1

The information presented in this file is for entertainment purposes
only. The authors of this file take no responsibiltiy for any of its
contents.

The following text file is for AT&T & GTE payphones from 1982-1985. some
things are different on gte phones, so additions are included for them.

Section 1:The coin slot

For every 5 cents you put in a phone, a sound is made. After you put
the coins in the slot, they pass through a totalizer which counts them.
They then collect in a hopper. To empty out the hopper, all you have to
do is activate the coin relay. Payphones sometimes hold $100 or more.
To activate the relay place 5 cents in the phone. Stick a magnet up the
coin slot about 5 inches. Now remove the front panel of the phone. You
will see a series of wires. Cut the red and green wires. Now in the
front of the panel you will see three screws. Touch the green wire to
the third screw. Better have a hat ready, because alot of change is
gonna come flooding out. Isn't this fun?

Section 2:free credits
If you have a friend in germany you need to call this sections for you.
One of the cheap things about pay phones is they depend on tones to tell
them you inserted money. Well if you have a red box these tones are
easily duplicated, but i want to show you how do it without boxes in
this file. Now Some thing you need are...
A set of screwdrivers. You will need both philips and flathead. Now
open the front panel of the phone and cut the red and green wires. Take
the cover off the top of the phone and insert 5 cents. You should hear
nothing. Find a green wire coming from the coin slot down to the
hopper. Disconnect that wire. Now take off the case and you will see a
small switch. Move the switch. This sets the totalizer backwards 1.
Now put the hopper cover back on and reconnect the wire. Go back to the
front panel. Feel to the right of the two screws. You should feel 4
jumpers. 1 of the jumpers should be disconnected. Reconnect it. Now
cut the top jumper. You should hear a loud pop. Now touch the green
wire to the second screw. You will hear the sound of twenty five cents
being inserted. You now have 30 cents credit. Repeat as many times as
you need. Now reconnect the green wire and dial your number.
GTE Notes:
The green wire will be white. The red one will be blue. The totalizer
is located at the bottem of the front panel.

In part 2 we will show you how to take the payphone apart, and how to
take one home.



This is one of MANY Great MYSTERY Notes at:

The Mystery Zone
(312) 231-6183




THE ABC'S OF PAYPHONES PART 2.

The information presented in this file is presented for entertainment
purposes only. The authors of this file take no responsibility for any
of its contents.

Section 1:how to open a payphone
An Atlantic Bell payphone is a heavily armored device. It is designed
to withstand attempted theft and damage. But as we found out in part 1,
we don't need to get through all the armor to phreak it. All we need to
do is get to the wiring which is all located behind 3 easy to remove
panels. All that holds the front panel on is 3 or 4 bolts. Just apply
sulfuric acid and in ten minutes or less they will come right out.
While you are waiting remove the other panels. The top panel is held on
by two tight nuts. A good pair of pliars will remove them. Now the
back panel is the hardest to remove. It is held together by a semi-
permanent solution. On the newer AT&T credit and pay phones, an alarm
goes off when the back panel is removed. The circuitry for it is
located in the top panel. Look for a round box with 4 wires coming out.
Cut the first and second ones. Now use sulfuric acid, wait ten minutes
and lift it off.
Section 2:How to steal a payphone
Ever wanted to have your own payphone. Its not very hard to steal one.
As a matter of fact, it is easy to rip one out of the wall, but I want
to show you how to take one home intact. Anyone traveling to Toronto
should stop by to see MR. C0SMOS' collection of payphones. He has them
set up and working. Stealing payphones is very dangerous. Much more
than phone boxing. Do not steal more than one from an area. They
sometimes know immediatly when its gone, so get the hell out of there.
The inside of it is heavily armored. If you are taking it for the
money, you will need a full set of philips & flathead screwdrivers,
sulfuric acid, a crowbar, a sledgehammer, bolt cutters, and probably
more. Now you can take it home and pound on it, or you can use the easy
way we showed you in part one.

In part 3 we will show you how to wire it up when you get it home and
alot of other stuff.



This is one of MANY Great MYSTERY Notes at:

The Mystery Zone
(312) 231-6183



THE ABC'S OF PAYPHONES PART 3

The information presented in this file is for entertainment purposes
only. The authors of this file take no responsibility for any of its
contents.

Well our mail boxes having been filling up with questions regarding this
series. We will answer them all in future files.

Ok, now you have your payphone home. What do you do with it. Well, if
you want to make it work, you need to run up a five prong cable from
the phone line in your basement. The outlet in the wall won't work.
Now, a two inch hole at the left front of it. Remove the back panel
(as described in part 1) and disconnect the wires coming out of it.
You will see them coming from silver screws. Disconnect them all. Now
make sure you know which screws they came from.

Now for some explaining. You could just wire it up with the existing
wires, but then it will make tones, so we are going to rewire it.

You will need 10 heavy duty 7 inch wires for the next part.

If you don't want it to accept money, skip this part.

Take the 12 O'clock screw and connect it to the screw at the bottom of
the totalizer. You will have to push it through, then take the top
off, and connect it. Connect the 2 O'clock screw to the green wire on
the silver box. Just cut the green wire from the box and connect them.

Ok, now this is the part that makes them work. Take the silver box
which is hanging loose now (make sure the wires attached already don't
come loose), and attach your 10 wires to the screws on the phone. Now
starting at the left top of the silver box, hook the wires on counter
clockwise starting with 3 O'clock, excluding 12, 2, 2:30, and 4.

Now run the cable up through the bottom, and hook it to the front of the
silver box. It should now work.

Ok, now to answer a question. A MAD! reader wants to know if you could
trip the totalizer using a wire stuck up the coin slot.

MR. C0SMOS answers that it would be very hard because of the bends
involved, and metal in the way. You might be able to if you used a non-
magnetic, very small, bendable rod. Just keep going up, until you
encounter a small lever, then move it. It
would take alot of patience.

Watch for part 4 soon.



This is one of MANY Great MYSTERY Notes at:

The Mystery Zone
(312) 231-6183



The ABC's of Payphones part 4.

MAD!'s most popular series!

Telephone lock.

Rotery payphones dial by having the number roll back to its original
position. It breaks the signal the number of times indicated.
You can achieve the same effect by tapping rapidly on the little button
at the top of the phone (the one you use to hang up with).
Lets say you wanted to call 123-4567. You would tap on the number
once, pause half a second, tap rapidly twice, pause, tap three times
fast, pause, and so on. It takes a little practice to get the numbers
right, but it does work. So much for locked telephones.

OFF HOOK.

Everyone knows the old trick where you would call someone on a payphone,
then walk away and it would stay off the hook till someone hung it up,
or a ma bell repair crew came and hung it up. Well, that doesn't work
anymore. It resets itself within 4-5 minutes. Well we were thinking
wouldn't it be nice if you could wire it so that the payphone wouldn't
hang up if the button was press. What you would be doing is turning it
off. Then the payphone couldn't be hung up. And while we were at it,
we found out how to keep it from reseting. Here's how...
Remove the top cover, and find the totalizer (for complete instructions
on how to do this see ABC's of payphones parts 1 and 2). Now unscrew
the cover of the totalizer and locate the center position where 6-10
wires meet. Clip all these wires. Put
both covers back on. Now open the front panel. Find those main wires
were always using. Now cut the 3rd wire to the right.

Ok what all this does is stop the payphone from reseting, and it turns
off the hang up button.

How to use it. Call someone up, and do the above instructions.

Getting money back.

If a payphone takes your money and won't give it back, but the money is
still in the hopper, heres what you can do. Just dial a 950 number,
such as 950-1044, and it will clear it out.

Endless ringing

This will make a payphone ring and ring. The only way to stop it will
be if a repairman comes out and fixes it.
Open the front of the phone. Now the in the front row of wires go and
clip the first, third, and fourth. Now touch them to each other untill
two of them make the phone ring. Now attach the two top ends and bottom
ends two each other. Take the odd
wire and reconnect it. Now cut the third wire to the right. If the
payphone isn't ringing right now, make sure the receiver is hung up and
touch those wires again. It will now ring. Put the phone together and
walk away.

Remember after every trick to put the phone back together for another
day.

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

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How to Scam Calling Cards

by ic0n

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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
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What your going to need to get is the refund number to your given telco. In Verizon Contry it's 611. Here in Ameritech Land we got a toll free number (800-994-1919). Next you need to find a telefone number that would cost as much money as possible. Tell them it rang a few times then when silent and when you hung up you did'nt recive your change. Most telco's now will give you calling card's for refunds now. But every once in a while you will get money from them. w00t w00t.

I know for a fact that verizon hooks up the calling cards. but they give really shitty ones that have 5 to 10 minutes. (but they should refund all money lost) Just keep your cool and you should have a few calling cards on the way. I'm not sure if they will mail them to you or give them to you on the spot. Have phun and please contact me if you have any other payfone refund numbers i could add to this text

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Getting Payphone Numbers in Australia

How to get a hold of Payphone numbers in Australia.

by MoSh

First of all there are many ways of getting payphone numbers. In this tut i will try to the best i can to explain how 2.

Handy tools to have:

tone Dialer

A tone Dialer is a little hand held device that generates DTMF tones. These are the little beeps the phone makes when u push a number on a keypad to dail a tone number. U can use a mobile phone to do the same trick.

How to use these tone dialers

Hold the speaker of the tone dialer up to the phones microphone and dial the number on the tone dialer. On most payphones u can't use the tone dialer untill u have pushed one number on the payphone keypad for example u want to dial the 0016000000 number u have to push 0 on the payphone first then u can do the rest from the tone dialer.

The need for a tone dialer.

Well on most X2 phones you can't dial the 0016000000 number so therefore using the rine dialer u can.

Where to get a tone dialer

U can get a tone dialer from any Tandy or Dicksmith or some electronics shop like that. They are about 12 bucks.

Types of payphones

X1 and X2: Are the Smartcard payphones where u put the card or money in them. The newer ones.

Gold: These are well as it says Gold pay phones. They are for business that need a payphone u put the money in it and the business collects the money and Telstra sends out a bill for them.

Blue: These are exsacly the same as gold phones except they are a it newer than the gold ones.

DORO: These are rare but u will come across them. They are white and like the blue and gold phones the business collects the money and pays telstra. You can dial a number and when the person picks up u then have to put money in if u don't it disconnects after 5 secs or so. Green: These are the old BIG Green payphones that just take money.

1. Using 0016000000 Pick up the phone and dial 0016000000 (with help from tone dialer if needed). There will be some dude talk about some overseas crap, (Telstra only does this just to anoy us phreakers I'm sure)at the end a lady will say some words then 3 numbers in the form of 1XX. Now with the XX numbers add one to the numbers, eg 125 will be 36. U have the last to numbers of the payphone number. Now look at the payphone somewhere it will have some serial number in the form of eg 3325 X134. Well the first for numbers are the first four numbers of the payphone number. So now u have first four numbers and the last two, to find out the 5 and 6th. U have to scan for them eg 3325 0036, 3325 0136, 3325 0236 and so on. And 5 mins later u should have it.

2. FAST

Fast is a service that telstra employee's have. They ring 1800 O5O O51 and they put in a employee number and a pin number It gives u lots of options but one is to get the number u are calling from. These are very hard to come by. Unless u know a guy that works for Telstra or u have one some somewhere u cant use this way to get a payphone number. The only way us regular phreakers are goin to get one is to go look through some telstra exchange bins. If ya lucky they may of thrown one away. If anyone has got one I would be much apreciative if u gave one to me =).

Well that's it for now there will probably other ways of getting payphone numbers

If u do know a way give us an email

And i will be updating this tut every so often for any changes

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A way to call an 800 number from a pay phone (for

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

SUBJECT: USING A PAYPHONE TO CALL AN 800 NUMBER, IT DISCONNECTS YOU AND YOU
GET A DIAL TONE THEN YOU DIAL ANYWHERE YOU WANT IN THE WORLD FOR FREE, NO
TIME LIMIT, NO STRINGS ATTACHED, THIS ELIMINATES THE NEED FOR ALMOST ALL
BOXES, SOME PAYFONES DON'T WORK I HAVE TRIED THREE LOCATIONS ( THE MALL,
THE SUPERMARKET, AND THE CONVENIENCE STORE) AND ONLY THE MALL PHONES WORK IN
MY TOWN

IMPORTANT: THIS ONLY WORKS ON SOME PAYPHONES, SOME PEOPLE WILL GET A BUSY
SIGNAL OR A DIAL TONE WHEN YOU DO THIS AT HOME (I GET A BUSY SIGNAL AT MY
HOUSE) ON PAYFONES THAT FOR SOME REASON DON'T WORK, WILL GET A BUSY
SIGNAL WHEN THE 800 NUMBER DISCONNECTS YOU, ME AND MY FRIENDS HAVE HAD A 50%
SUCCESS RATE IN FINDING PHONES THAT WORKS

NOTE: YOU CAN DO THIS AT HOME AND IF YOU GET A DIAL TONE AT HOME AFTER YOU
ARE DISCONNECTED FROM THE 800 NUMBER, YOU CAN DIAL OUT BUT I THINK THE CALL
WILL STILL BE BILLED TO YOUR PHONE (IT IS WORTH INVESTIGATING BECAUSE I DON'T
KNOW FOR SURE)

Hello everybody this file is about using 800 numbers to get free calls
anywhere the payphone you are using can call. I am sure you have heard of
1-800-TAMPONS some lady starts talking and you press a number and she stops
then you wait until you hear something either a dial tone or a busy signal
if you get the dial tone the phone still thinks O.K. an 800 number, free call
so you can dial anywhere the payphone allows, anywhere in WORLD!!

Anyway the whole purpose of this file is to try to explain how it works
and give you a lot of 800 numbers it works with

HOW IT WORKS:
-------------
Theory #1: When you dial an 800 number the phone thinks free call and when
the 800 number disconnects you, you get a dial tone and the fone still thinks
free call, so you don't have to put in any money it is just like a home phone
But the phone records the call for the bill

Theory #2: You dial the 800 number and when it disconnects you, the phone
company still thinks you are on the 800 number because you haven't hung up yet
even though you are calling around the world

MOST IMPORTANT NOTE: DO NOT ALWAYS USE THE SAME PAYFONE, DO NOT ALWAYS USE
THE SAME 800 NUMBER IF YOU SHUFFLE THESE TWO THINGS AROUND THE FONE GUYS
WILL NEVER CATCH YOU, THE REASON YOU CAN GET CAUGHT IS THAT YOU WILL LOOK
WEIRD STANDING IN FRONT OF A PHONE FOR 3 HOURS, WHEN THAT HAPPENS THE MALL
PEOPLE GET SUSPICIOUS, ALSO THE MALL PEOPLE CAN MONITER YOUR CALLS AND SEE
WHERE YOU ARE CALLING, I HAVE HAD THEM TAP MY CALL BEFORE, SO TRY AND USE
A SECLUDED PAYPHONE AND NOT ONE IN A MALL

HOW TO MAKE IT WORK:
--------------------
Find an 800 number that disconnects you, there are many, to make it disconnect
you you can just wait until it stops talking or just keep pressing numbers
or if you reach a business just leave a message and it will probably drop
you afterwards, you'll either get a dial tone or a busy signal ,ONLY THE DIAL
TONE WILL WORK, IF YOU GOT A BUSY SIGNAL IT WILL NOT WORK ON THAT PAYFONE
just use your basic fone cracking techniques.
Another important note is that some of the 800 numbers i have
that work are ones that say i am out of there service area and they drop me
you might be in the area and it will not work, Well it still might if the
800 number still disconnects you (Note: the payphone almost turns into a home
fone so to dial locally just do it how you normally do it with seven numbers,
(XXX-XXXX) A lot of the numbers that work are disconnected so don't hang up
when you hear someone saying how the number no longer exists

AFTER THE NUMBER DISCONNECTS YOU:
---------------------------------
You can call any number and dial it like you normally would at a home phone
I have called everywhere, from California to South America

International Direct Dial: 011 + country code + city code + number
Example: 011 592 592 593 This country (Guyana) is so small you don't need a
city code (this is a real number by the way)

SOME NUMBERS:
-------------

NOTE: MOST OF THESE NUMBERS YOU ARE SUPPOSED TO WAIT, I USUALLY HAVE TO WAIT
ABOUT 10 SECONDS AFTER THE TALKING IS DONE SO DON'T HANG UP IF YOU DON'T HEAR
A DIAL TONE RIGHT AWAY AFTER THE 800 NUMBER IS DONE TALKING

1-800-Tampons (1-800-826-7667)
It will ring about 5 times a lady starts talking press a number and she will
stop wait for about 5-10 seconds and you will get a dial tone

1-800-4-Island (1-800-447-5263)
Leave a message and wait for a dial tone

1-800-4BonBon (1-800-426-6266)
This is Peter Pan travel, you have to leave a message and send it and wait a
long time for a dial tone

1-800-Turgeon (1-800-887-4366)
Leave a message and wait for a dial tone

1-800-Capital (1-800-227-4825)
For this one to work there has to be no more message room, I have never had
it have message room if it does just leave a message and wait to see if that
works

1-800-743-8640
After 4 P.M. Eastern Wait until message is done

1-800-Coolbbs (1-800-266-5227)
Wait until talk is over

1-800-Termina (1-800-837-6462)
Wait until talk is done

1-800-Greatme (1-800-473-2863)
A disconnected one, wait until talking is done

1-800-321-6549
I think it is a calling card service but it will say what number do you want
to call type in any fone number and it will ask for an authorization code
type in 16 digits you will probably fail, if you don't then you found
someones authorization code, once you fail it will ask for the code again,
fail it again and it disconnects you

HOW TO FIND 800 NUMBERS THAT WORK:
----------------------------------

AT HOME:
--------

Call a random 800 number, don't hang up if it says it is disconnected try
pressing numbers or just wait if you get a busy beeping signal in varying
speeds or a dial tone, then that means that the 800 number has disconnected
you probably, To sample this sound call 1-800-Tampons (1-800-826-7667) and
wait until that lady starts talking and press a number she will stop and you
will get a beeping busy signal or a dial tone, then listen for this sound on
all the other 800 #'s that you call from your home

NOTE: AS I HAVE SAID A COUPLE TIMES I WILL SAY IT AGAIN FOR THOSE STUPID
PEOPLE OUT THERE, WHEN YOU GET DISCONNECTED FROM AN 800 NUMBER AT HOME IT WILL
EITHER DO A BUSY BEEPING SIGNAL OR YOU WILL GET A DIAL TONE EITHER WAY
THAT MEANS THAT THE NUMBER PROBABLY WORKS

ON A PAYPHONE:
--------------

Do the exact same thing but you will get a dial tone on a some payfones,
and a busy signal on other payfones, like I said it took me a day or so to
find a payfone that it would work with, THE ONLY WAY THIS TRICK WILL WORK IS
IF YOU GET THE DIAL TONE WHEN YOU GET A BUSY SIGNAL YOU CAN'T DO ANYTHING

FINAL COMMENTS:
---------------
If you are having problems or questions (I know I am a terrible writer and I
can't explain things very well) please leave a message to

Jello Biafra (NOTE: Not my real name, just my mentors name)
on The Temple of the Screaming Electron BBS (1-510-935-5845)

Or if you really need to talk to me right away (if you know how this works
exactly please do this) please call 1-814-437-1418 and ask for Jason
and if my number has been changed or something call 1-814-374-4323 ask for
Gary and say you are one of Jason's friends and you need to know his new
number

NOTE: the 814 area code is in Pennsylvania

DISCLAIMER:
-----------
I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR WHAT ANYONE DOES WITH THIS INFORMATION, THIS
IS MEANT FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY AND I DO NOT CONDONE PHONE FRAUD
I REPEAT AS THE AUTHOR OF THIS FILE I AM NOT LIABLE FOR YOU OR YOUR ACTIONS

scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/

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How To Become An Assassin

HOW TO BECOME AN ASSASSIN

By

-The Propagation

"Knowledge is no longer power, Knowledge is survival" -The Propagation 1999 CONTENTS

Introduction
Psychology
Multiple ID's and personalities
Concealment
Hand to hand combat
Basic martial arts
Commando Fighting Techniques
Gun use
Special ammo
Basic weapons skills
Sentry removal
Attacking from ambush
Capture in passing
Lying methodology
Lie detector tests
The art of escaping
Explosives technics
Poisons
Communications
Inteligence gathering
Phone taps
Survival kits
Movement
Tracking
Advancing towards the enemy
Navigation
Reading the signs
Hot wiring
Slight of hand
Security systems
Lock picking
Hiding youself
Carding
Tips
Physical training regime


APPENDIX I: Chemical equivelency lists
APPENDIX II: Closing statement
APPENDIX III: Thanx and dedications
APPENDIX IV: Apoligies
APPENDIX V:About the author
APPENDIX VI:Further research
References
Disclaimer

INTRODUCTION

This file is being produced to help the members of the underground in their search for knowledge and an equal world of eqaul opportunities. The material in this manual is to help those previosly stated move without being noticed, escape capture, and many other aspects that will aid in their work. This manual is by no means able to replace proper teaching. Joining a martial arts club is a very good way to produce the many skills needed in successful hand to hand combat. I, personally, suggest trying jujitsu, aikido and other close combat martial arts. To become digilent in the coming methods, constant practice is neccessary. It is not enough to simply read over the text as there is no better way to learn than to get out there and practice it. Practice should be carried out whenever possible. If you're out with friends, practice dissapearing from infornt of them. It is possible.

To become an assassin, you must be a hunter. You must know the patterns and routines of your prey so that you may strike when they are most vunerable. To be an assassin, you must learn the way of the wizard, so you may stop the world and see with the eyes of God. The assassin must live in the shadows, have no true identity and exist in the common world on a deeper level. It is the assassin of great power who can control their enviroment, become one with their surroundings and remain unseen in full view of the enemy.

PSYCHOLOGY

Using a psychological approach, the assassin can perfom more terrorising results in the intended victim. It is true to say that to live in fear is to be more terrorising than to die. One way of doing this is to leave subtle threats. These should be placed in such a place that the victim will see them and also they must be in a position where they will have the greatest effect. For example, In the still of the night, gain access to the victims residence and smear a subtle phrase across the wall at the end of the bed. This will not only cause the victim to notice it as they wake up, but they will then also have the knowledge that you can get to them easily without them even noticing, therefore, they will be living in constant fear. However, after a time this fear will wear off as the victim starts to think that it was just a threat and nothing will come of it. So, in order to prevent this from happening, the assassin must constantly reinforce the messages and after a while carryout a small fear inducing act. For example, a third message could be to inform them that there MAY be something in their car. A while later, after they would have check the car out, position a small explosive charge under, say, the seat being wired up to the ignition. For best fear inducing effects, place a beeping device in the circuit with a delay before the charge. This will catch the victim off guard as they think that, after checking the car out, the threat had no base. But on hearing the beeping device they will fear that there was truth behind it and prepare for the enivitable. The assassin should place a small note near the charge, not to close to be damaged, that reads something like - "Next time I'll blow your legs off". This needs to be easily readable when the charge is inspected by the authorities.

Another way to create fear in the subject is, by intelligence gathering, send a subtle note that plays on the safety of a loved one. This works best when the victims loved one is planning on going someplace and not informing the subject. For example, a son or daughter going to a party or gathering and informing the victim that they are infact going to a friends house. When the subject rings to ease their mind, the loved one will not actually be at that place and the victim will come to fear for the safety of this loved one.

If the fear inducing technique is sufficient the subject may have a loss of will to live as they are constantly living in terror. Thus, the assassin will generate the desired effect without actually having direct responsibility for the subjects death.

Alternatively, fear can be induce by use for charms, curses and jinxes. Firstly, you must let the subject think that you are capable of cursing them. This can be done by staging an event, or giving them an account of a previous incident and telling them that you played a part in it. This will then make them believe that you can achieve what you say. Next you need to provide a basis for your curse or jinx. This can be in the form of a small icon or a 'special powder' that can be made from calk dust, flour, etc. After this you must convince your subject that the icon or 'special powder' is actually cursed. This can be done by giving them false accounts of previous owners lives or acient manuscripts fortelling the fate of those subjected to the icon,etc. If you then subject the victim to the icon, powder or whatever, the subject will do the rest themselves. This is because they now believe in what you have subjected them to. Their day may just continue as normal, but because they believe they are under a cures or jinx, they will only remember the bad parts of their day, and as each day passes, the effects will become stronger. If an extremly bad thing happens, like a car crash, knifing, then all the better. As this will add to your reputation and will cause those who had doubts about your ability before to fear you and, therefore, increasing their suggestability for future purposes.

Produce doubt in other peoples minds. This will lead to your winning. eg. if someone has an item you need - make them believe you have the 'real' item and the one they have is useless (ie. disk). As soon as they begin to doubt the authenticy of that which they have you will be able to finish them off, and retrieve the 'disk' when they discard it.

MULTIPLE ID'S AND PERSONALITIES

The assassin must be able to transfrom themselves into many different characters, therefore, existing without a true identity. To begin in a new form of identity, the assassin must first aquire a fake identity card. This can be done by:

The first thing is to find out who exactly you'll become. The most secure way is to use someone's ID who doesn't use it themselves. The people who fit this the best are the deceased. Now you must go to the library and look through old death notices. You have to find someone who was born about the same time as you were. Also, it is best to choose someone that has the same first name as you, at least. This is so that you will react naturally if you are called. It is also wise to get the same first letter of the deceased persons to match your own. This is so that if you have to sign for anything then your signiture will flow naturally. You should go back as far as you can for the death because most states now cross index deaths to births so people can't do this in the future. Go down to the library and look up all the death notices you can, if it's on microfilm so much the better. You might have to go through months of death notices though, but the results are well worth it. You gotta get someone who died locally in most instances: the death certificate is filed only in the county of death. Now you must go down to the county courthouse in the county where they died and get the death certificate, this may cost you a small amount. Look at this paper, it could be your the only way to suddenly dissapear when the right time comes.

Now check the place of birth on the death certificate, if it's in the same place that you are then you are ready to go. If not, you can mail away for one from that county but it might take a while, the librarian at the desk has listings of where to write for this stuff and exactly how much it costs. Get the Birth cirtificate, its worth the extra money to get it certified because thats the only way some people will accept it for ID. When your aquiring these documents the forms ask for the reason you want it, put in the word "Geneology". If the Death certificate looks good, wait a day or so before getting the certified birth certificate in case they recognize someone wanting it for a deceased person.

After this, access your PC and wire it up to the printer and print out some mailing labels addressed to you at some false address. Take the time to check that this address is real. Hotels that rent by the month or large apartment buildings are good, be sure to get the right zip code for the area. These are things that the authorities might notice that will trip you up. Take some junk mail and place your new lables on them. Now take them along with the birth certificate down to the library. Get a new library card. If they ask you if you had one before say that you really aren't sure because your family moved around alot when you were a kid. Most libraries will allow you to use letters as a form of ID when you get your card. If they want more tell them that you have mislaid your wallet Your should get your card straight away or you may have to wait a short while. Most libraries ask for two forms of ID, one can be your new Birth Certificate, and they should allow letters addressed to you as a second form. Now you got a start, it isn't perfect yet, so let's continue. You should have two forms of ID now. Throw away the old letters, or better yet stuff them inside the wallet you intend to use with this stuff. Go to the county courthouse and show them the new ID and get a state ID card. Now you will have a picture ID. This will take about two weeks.

You can also apply for a 'new' national insurance card claiming that you had lost your original. In the uk you must be over 16 years of age to recieve a NI card.

You should also get on your PC type out some intials for like a sport or university for example, add some colour and skew it diagnoly. Then, using this as the background for your 'picture', put add on the details as below:

(Title of club, college etc) ___________ | | Surname:.............................. | Picture | Forenames:.......................... | | Address:............................... | | ............................................... | | D.O.B:.................................... |__________ | Number:................................

You can also add on the instructors signiture if its a club and an expiration date. Print this out on some thin card and get it laminated.

You can now go and get a new bank account and apply for a new passport. When applying for the new passport you must intercept the mail for the address that is on the id. Alternatively you can organise a drop of point using an abandoned building saying that you have just moved.

When you send away photographs that will be put into new id's such as the passport. Use a different look. Dye your hair and cover up or give yourself distinguishing features. Be sure to replace or cover them back up when you are using the id's. Make a number of false identities so that you may never need to use your own identity.

CONCEALMENT People are seen for a number of reasons, remembering these vital words that will help you to stay covered from the enemy at all times;

SHAPE- Lose your shape, break up the bodies outline and blend in with the surroundings

SHINE- Mask any shiny or reflective objects on your person, including the face.

SHADOW- Move behind lights when possible. If not move in the shadows, the human shadow is easily distinguished.

SILHOUETTE- The human shape is familiar and stands out. Keep low from sky lines.

SURFACE- Blend in with the surroundings.

SPACING- When in a group spread out randomly. Nature is not orderly.

MOVEMENT- Things are seen especially when they move. Avoid unnecessary movement

Inpo, the art of hiding, is an integral part of the Ninjitsu system. It simply means that one must take advantage of every possible object, natural as well as man made, to conceal oneself. Inpo gave rise to the legends that the ancient ninja could vanish at will..

Foremost among the precepts of inpo is the admonition to avoid unnecessary movement. Following are the five preferred inpo methods:

EARTH METHOD

The best example of this technique is supplied by Uzura gakure no-jitsu, which suggests hiding like a quail in small gaps between two larger objects. The primary consideration here is that one must be able to completely fill the space between the objects. In this way, one may escape detection, since an observer will scan past these as he walks. Of note also is the technique of hiding under overhanging brush or grass. Stay low to observe and look around the cover.

AIR METHOD

This refers to hiding like a racoon. It means that one should climb a tree or other high place and press oneself against the object so that one seems to be a part of it. The infamous jewel thieves, Alan Kuhn and Jack Murphy- who stole the Star of India from a New York museum- made frequent use of this tactic. They believed, and rightly so, that people seldom look up.

WATER METHOD

This means to imitate the actions of the fox by concealing oneself in water. Not only does this aid in erasing one's trail, but also allows only poor footing for the pursuing enemy. This method is also extremely useful when one can spring on an enemy out of the water for the purpose of drowning him.

FIRE METHOD

This is perhaps the most difficult of the inpo arts. It refers to the erasing of sound and shadow. Always move behind a light source to avoid casting a shadow or silhouette which might betray you. Learn to move silently. Only practice in the nine steps can develop this skill.

WOOD METHOD

Pu Neng Mu is the term used to mean "invisibility in plain sight". When no cover is at hand one must hide behind nothing. This is accomplished by distorting the silhouette. It is possible to form the body into many shapes by means of yogic exercises. In the old days of ninjitsu, one excellent tactic involved replacing a scare crow and standing in the center of a ploughed field. By kneeling and wrapping the arms around the knees, one assumes a position like a stone or bush.

Numerous other methods exist for concealing one's presence from the enemy, such as disguises, mingling with crowds, false identities, and so on. These alternatives lie in the realm of strategically, rather than tactical considerations.

Conceal items within common items when ever possible. ie. poison filled syringe in a pen.

POSITIONS OF CONCEALMENT

There are six basic positions which may be used to conceal your presence:

1. ABOVE- A position above the enemy is the first of these, as mentioned people rarely look up. One may use this propensity to his advantage. Roof tops are a good place of concealment as by laying flat observations can be made, However, avoid silhouetting.

2. BELOW- One can also hide below the enemy when hiding or observing. Look for crawl spaces, air ducts or cellars. Remember to replace any grates or trap doors that may have been in your way. Beware of being trapped, NEVER move into a space with only one exit.

3. BESIDE- Beside cover is a third method which may be used. Regardless of the object, keep as low as possible at all times. Use shadows when ever possible- conceal yourself within it and assume the same shape.

4. BEHIND- Hiding behind cover is another technique. In selecting this approach, bear in mind that you must assume the same shape as the object. Shrubs, hedges, crates, stacked material, and so on, may be used for this purpose.

5. INSIDE- Hiding inside is another method of concealment. The trick is to choose places where a person is not expected to fit. One must possess great flexibility and the ability to remain uttery still. Remember to beware of becoming trapped.

6. INFRONT- Infront of cover is the boldest and most difficult of all these concealment methods. To accomplish this, one must select the object of concealment, position himself directly before it, and assume its shape. Lower the torso and look directly ahead without fixing the eyes on any one point. Relax the body.

In all of these concealment methods, the primary consideration is no movement. It is of utmost importance in hiding in plain view. This technique was a favourite of the ancient ninja, who would position themselves so, along a path travelled by the enemy, stepping forward to attack him as he passed. DO NOT look directly at the enemy as this will cause him to sense your presence.

HAND TO HAND COMBAT

METHODS OF APPLICATION

When engaged in hand-to-hand combat, your life is always at stake. There is only one purpose in combat, and that is to kill your enemy. Never face an enemy with the idea of knocking him out. The chances are extremely good that he will kill YOU instead. When a weapon is not available, one must resort to the full use of his natural weapons. In a combat situation, do not always aim for the head area. there are many body points that can be damaged effectivley including fatal shots.

The natural weapons are:

1. The knife edge of your hands.

2. Fingers folded at the second joint or knuckle.

3. The protruding knuckle of your second finger.

4. The heel of your hand.

5. Your boot

6. Elbows

7. Knees

8. and Teeth.

Attacking is a primary factor. A fight was never won by defensive action. Attack with all of your strength.

At any point or any situation, some vulnerable point on your enemies body will be open for attack. Do this while screaming as screaming has two purposes.

1. To frighten and confuse your enemy.

2. To allow you to take a deep breath which, in turn, will put more oxygen in your blood stream. Your balance and balance of your enemy are two inportant factors; since, if you succeed in making your enemy lose his balance, the chances are nine to one that you can kill him in your next move. The best over-all stance is where your feet are spread about shoulders width apart, with your right foot about a foot ahead of the left. Both arms should be bent at the elbows parallel to each other. Stand on the balls of your feet and bend your waist slightly. Kinda of like a boxer's crouch. Employing a sudden movement or a scream or yell can throw your enemy off-balance. There are many vulnerable points of the body. We will cover them now:

Weaknesses of the human anatomy

The following text concentrates on the major damage points of the head and neck region.

The proceeding pages will deal with 32 of the pressure points of the body. Of course, there are quite a few more, but these are the basics. All of the points are classified into 2 catagories :

Numerical

I - brain/skull
II - sense organs
III- life support, cardiorespiratory, major organs & tracts
IV - muscular functions & nerves
V - mechanical functions, skeletal, cartilage's & joints


Alphabetical

A-immobility from pain
B-immobility from structural or organic damage
C-Unconsciousness from nerve or organic damage
D-death from physiological damage

The ventral transverse plane consists of the face, the front, top, & sides of the head, the neck, & the upper torso, including the collarbone. There are 15 pressure points in this area as follows:

1. Coronal Suture I-C
2. Trigeminal Nerve & Frontal Bone I-D
3. Temple & Fossa Temporalis I-D
4. Eyes II-B
5. Ears II-B
6. Mastoid II-A
7. Septal Cartilage II-A or II-D
8. Anterior Nasal Spine I-A
9. Temporomandibular Joint V-A
10. Tip Of Mandible I-C
11. Sternocleidomastoid Region III-D
12. Anterior Neck Region III-D
13. Brachial Plexus & Trapezius Muscle IV-C
14. Suprasternal Notch III-D
15. Clavicle V-B
16. Heart III-D
17. Kidneys III-B
18. Shoulder Socket V-B
19. Elbow V-B
20. Carpals, Metacarpals and Phalanges V-B
21. Patella V-B
22. Tarsals and Metatarsals V-B
23. Thoracic Cage V-D
24. Floating Ribs V-B/D
25. Vertebral Column V-B
26. Diaphragm III-C/D
27. Testes III-A/C
28. Coccyx III-A
29. Armpit IV-A
30. Posterior Cutaneous IV-A
31. Liver III-D
32. Spleen III-D
1: This region lays on top of the head, more towards the forehead. It is also known as the soft spot on babies. It is the space between the skull bones that is covered with a membrane that close up usually by 18 months, but the coronal structure is still weaker than the rest of the skull. Directly beneath this is the sensory portion of the brain & under that the optic cavity. A downward strike of about 45 degrees depending on the force could cause concussion, temporary blindness, unconsciousness, brain haemorrhage, even death (very powerful blow).

2: This region is located just below the centermost point of the forehead The nerve is on the outside of the skull thus when the bone is struck it will trap the nerve. This could result in jarring the cerebral hemispheres, concussion, unconsciousness, impaired vision, & paralysis. If and only if maximum impact is applied, death could result from brain haemorrhage.

3: I'm sure we all know where the temple is but for those of you that don't know it is located on a horizontal plane across from the top of the ear. It is the recessed part on each side of the head. It is actually the bone tip of the sphenoid. The trigeminal nerve runs through the temple. This nerve controls several facial functions. Also passing through is the middle meningeal artery which is the largest branch supplying dura matter. A direct hit could break the tip off the sphenoid causing it to enter the brain. The meningeal could burst. Contact to the trigeminal could result in loss of control of facial functions. Compression of the brain, hemorrhage, concussion, shock, & death are likely results of striking the temple with a horizontal blow directed towards the opposite temple.

4: The eyes are located...uh I think you know. The eyes are very sensitive even to the slightest touch. They are held in by fascia bulbi (a soft membrane) and eye muscles. This makes them easy to pop out. They are also very soft, and if a blow reached the vitreous body (center of eye) the eyeball would collapse. Other than causing temporary or permanent loss of sight a deep thrust could puncture the brain causing death.

5: These are located on each side of the head. Air is easily trapped in the external acoustic meatus (the tunnel from the outer ear to the inner ear) and forced into the eardrum causing it to bust. This in turn ruptures the hammer or malleus within the middle ear. Damages would cause severe pain, loss of hearing, bleeding from the mouth and ear, and bleeding into the throat via the internal auditory tube. Also, the inner ear is the center of equilibrium (balance) for the cerebellum. a forceful strike could leave the victim sprawled on the ground with no balance! The blow should be delivered horizontally driving into the ear.

6: The mastoid is located directly behind the earlobe. It is the recessed area where the skull meets the neck. It is filled with air pockets which are used to communicate with the middle ear. A thrust should not be used; rather apply pressure with a nuckle or thumbnail in an upward direction. Prolonged pressure could cause damage to the auditory system.

7: Known more commonly as the nose the septal cartilage is the hard substance that makes up the nose. Two strikes are used here for different measures

II-A : a horizontal strike causing breakage of the septal cartilage and nasal bone which ruptures the angular vein producing a lot of blood along with great pain, however, not enough to stop some attackers II-D : an upward 45 degree strike forcing the septal cartilage through the internal nasal cavity and crista galli (a small bone formation between the nasal cavity & the brain) into the brain. Death would be instantaneous because of compression of the brain.

8: This is located beneath the nose and above the lips. It is the area between the 2 lines running from the nose to upper lip. Many of the facial nerves run through this area. A direct hit would cause the sensory fibers to relay the shock to the pons, causing dizziness. A hit would also cause damage to the maxilla bone which holds the gums & teeth. This could cause extensive bleeding posibly scaring the victim about the blood loss. A straight blow in needed to achieve this aiming towards the back of the head.

9: This is the joint that holds the jaw bone in place. It connects with the skull in front of the ear. The joint is really made up of 2 separate joints, thus dislocation can be unilateral or bilateral. With a 45 degree downward strike (preferably with the mouth open) will dislocate the mandible (jaw bone). An easier way to break the bone is to strike the joint itself or anywhere on the jaw bone really while the head is turned to one side or the other. This reduces the absorbtion of the blow by the neck. This method requires the least amount of force.

10: The madible is the jaw bone and of course the tip is located on the very end of the chin. Boxers use this point for a quick K.O. Hitting this area sends a shock snesor to the cerebellum causing unconsciousness. Hit this point with an upward blow.

11: This is the area at the frontal sides of the neck. The sternocleidomastoid muscles run from behind the ear down to the clavicle bones. Beneath these muscles lie the jugular vein and cartoid artery which supply blood to the heart & brain. This are is very sensitive. Try poking yourself there. A medium strike results in dizziness. A more forceful blow could blister, swell, collapse or or burst 1 or both of the blood lines. This could easily cause death because of lack of oxygen to the heart or brain. A strike should be done on an upsloping plane at 45 degrees on either side of the chin in the neck area.

12: Referred to as the windpipe or throat; is located in the center portion of the neck. This is a tubular passage running from the mouth to the stomach & lungs. When a straight on blow is delivered the thyroid cartilage (Adam's apple(the lump in your throat)) and the hyaline cartilage (hold the windpipe in a cylinder shape) are pushed through the larynx and/or trachea resulting in blood drowning or partial or complete obstruction of the vital air passages. The cartilages act as cutting devices.

13: The muscle is the one that runs from the base of the neck to the shoulder. It raises up on most people. The brachial plexus is a nerve center which supplies info about the shoulder & arm down to the wrist. It runs through the trapezius. Striking the trapezius (from either front or back) with a downward 45 degree motion could paralyze the arm & shoulder temporarily. With a maximun blow unconsciousness & paralysis could be attained.

14: This lies between the collarbones; it connects them. A blow here could dislodge the collarbones from the sternum, collapsing the shoulders. But there are better targets behind the sternum. Such as the aorta, the superior vena cava (major blood lines to the brain), and the trachea all these pass directly behind the sternum. A forceful blow would follow these reactions : dislodge both clavicles from the sternum, the sternum would split, the 2 clavicles & sternum would be forced against or puncture the aorta and vena cava, the cartilages & bones would then be forced against or puncture the trachea. The strike should be delivered at a downward 45 degree angle. The suprasternal notch is a MAJOR death target.

15: This is the bone on each side of the body that runs from the shoulder to the center of the chest. It supports the shoulder so breaking a clavicle (collarbone) would result in the collapse of the shoulder. It is possible for the broken bone to puncture a lung or possibly the heart or one of the things mentioned in #14. A simple break would immobilize the victim due to structural damage & pain. An inward & down motion should be used when attacking also at 45 degrees.

16. This is the cardiac muscle that pumps the blood throughtout the body. It is hidden behind the sternam, (the breast plate in the middle of the chest). A forceful strike would cause the heart to skip beats and collapse, ceasing the movement of oxygen around the body resulting in death.

17. The kidneys are located in the soft area of the back, at the bottom of the rib cage. The front of the kidneys is protected by the floating ribs, however, the back of the kidneys are exposed and vunerable. There is one on each side of the vertebral column. A firm strike to this area generates alot of pain and will cause structural damage. Internal bleeding may result causing death.

18. This is the point at which the top of the humurus and the scaptula meet in a ball and socket joint. To disslocate the shoulder joint, one must place a foot or knee under the arm and sharply pull and twist the arm. This will create alot of pain.

19. The elbow, which is a hinge joint, where the base of the humurus and the forearm meet. This joint works only one way. Therefore, by holding the back of this joint and applying pressure by pulling the forearm in the opposite direction to which the subject is facing it can be broken quite readily. This will cause pain and immobility due to structural damage.

20. The carpals, metacarpals and phalanges are the bones which make up the hand and fingers. They are attatched by means of a hinge joint and can be easiely broken in much the same way as the elbow. This technique is effective against holds and stranglers where the fingers can readily be bent backwards. this will cause structural damage and generate pain.

21. The Petalla, often known as the knee cap, is a small round piece of bone which floats freely in the hinge joint of the femur and the tibia. By using a downward strike the petella can easiely become disslodged causeing pain and immobility.

22. The tarsals and metatarsals are the bones which make up the foot. They, like the carpals and metacarpals, work on the basis of hinge joints. However, it is extremly difficult to get the chance to, let alone bend these back. A prefered method is to execute an extremely powerful downward strike such as a stamp onto the bones causing them to break. the subject will then fall to the floor as there is no base on which the body weight can be placed.

23. The thoracic cage, often known as the rib cage, is the protective box in which holds the vital organs. The rib cage consists of a number of long bones that start at the spinal column and proceed around the body connecting at the sternam in the centre of the chest. A forceful strike or stamp to the frontal area can cause the thoracic cage to collapse resulting in the feeling of a tight chest, extreme pain and immobility. In some cases the broken bones may piece the heart or lungs resulting in death.

24. The floating ribs also begin at the spinal column and extend around the body. However, they do not join at the front. They are located below the thoracic cage and can be much more readily brocken than those in the thoracic cage. In some instances the brackage of these bones may pierce the liver or spleen resulting in the subject rapidly bleeding to death.

25. The vertabral coloumn or spinal column, runs down the centre of the back from the base of the skull to the anus. It is made up of a large number of small disc shaped bones connected together. The spinal column holds the spinal cord within it, this is a thick collection of nerves that controls the middle and lower body. A strong strike to this column would break the vertabrae and in some cases snap the spinal cord resulting in full or partial paralysis.

26. The diaphragm is a thick membrane located at the base of the sternam that strecthes from the front to the back and from left to right. THe diaphragm is the membrane that, by contracting and relaxing, changes the volume in the lungs causing intake and expiration of oxygen. A rising strike into this area would temporarily paralyse this membrane and knock out all of the air out of the lungs. Thus, damage to this organ would result in a inability to breath resulting in unconsciousness and maybe death.

27. The testes are located between the legs at the base of the body on a male. Even a slight strike to this area would cause extreme pain , immobility and maybe unconsciousness.

28. The coccyx is a small collection of bones located at the base of the spinal column at the anal opening. A forceful strike to this area would cause extreme pain and immobility.

29. The armpit is a concave area of tissue that is located under the arm where the upper arm and main body join. Within the armpit is a large gathering of nerves. Although this area is not often accessable, a strike to the armpit would cause intense pain and immobility.

30. The posterior cutaneous is a large collection of nerve cells found at the back of the upper leg. A pinching technique to this area would cause sharp pain and a sudden relfex action to move.

31. The liver is located on the right side of the body extending across to a point on the left. The top of the liver is protected by the ribs on both sides. However the bootom of the liver, found on the right side is unprotected. The liver is saturated with blood and any damage to this organ would result in a rapid loss of blood due to internal bleeding. Resulting in death.

32. The spleen is similar to the liver in that it too is saturated with blood. However, the spleen is a smaller organ and is found on the left side. It is completely protected by the ribs. Damage to this organ would also produce rapid blood loss due to internal bleeding. Resulting in death.

BASIC MARTIAL ARTS

It is always an advantage for the assassin to have at least a basic knowledge of martial atrs. The following text by no means attempts to replace proffesional teachings. It is suggested that the training assassin enroles in one or more martial arts clubs. Preferences include, jujitsu, aikido, other close quarters fighting styles and maybe one or two distance styles such as taekwondo which involves kicking and jumping techniques. The following text will attempt to portray some of the practical aspects of martial arts.

The Stance

The stance should be comfortable to the assassin. The stance should be about one shoulders width and one and a half shoulders long. The knees should be bent always, or they provided an easy target to become broken. The lead hand or front hand, should be about brought up to apx. 20 centermeters from the shoulder to the thumb. The rear hand should be brought up to next to the cheek and apx. 2 fist widths away from it. Both elbows should be brought in to protect the bidy. The body should be turn to about 45 degrees to provide a smaller target for the enemy. Always keep the arms up to protect the face.

Making A Fist: Firstly, the assassin must know how to make a proper first so as not to injure themselvs whilst in a confrontation.

*Fully open out the hand. *Curl the fingers down so they touch the pad of flesh running along the top of the palm; *Fold the fingers forward from the knuckles; *Lock the fist closed by folding your thumb across the index and middle fingers.

The thumb must never be closed within the hand as this will cause it to dislocate at the point of impact.

Strike the target with the index and middle finger knuckles only, holding the fist in such a way that the wrist does'nt flex painfully on impact.

Strikes

The Jab

Target areas, #'s: 1, 2, 7, 8, 10, 14, 15, 16, 26

The jab is a short punch delievered with the lead hand. The jab can be used as a distracting punch rapidly being followed up by a reverse punch, hook or uppercut.

*Begin in a comfortable stance allowing for the ability to move freely, always keep the knees bent.

*Extend the lead hand out and twist the hips into the punch to gain full distance.

*The chin should be kept tucked into the body so that a counter attack will not connect and break it.

*As the lead hand reaches the target, twist the hand so into the target, so that the palm is facing downwards.

*Sharply retract the arm.

Reverse Punch

Target areas, #'s: 1, 2, 7, 8, 10, 14, 15, 16, 26

This punch comes from the rear hand and is alot more powerful than the jab.

*Begin in the fighting stance

*Bring the lead hand in slightly to the face to protect it;

*Step forward slightly with the lead foot.

*Punch out with your rear hand twisting your hips into the move by pivoting on the ball of the rear foot.

*As the punch reaches the target, twist the hand into it as before.

Back Fist

Target areas, #'s: 3, 5, 6, 7, 9

The back fist strike can be a follow up from a hook or can be used on its own, and can be used from either hand. A developed back fist can cause fatal results. *Start in the fighting position
*Bring the striking fist up to the opposite ear, palm facing inwards.
*Extend the arm striking with the back of the hand on the knuckles.
*Pull back the spent arm.

The Hook

Target areas,#'s: 3, 5, 9, 17, 23, 24, 29

This punch is used to reach targets that the previous punches can not. It is also used as a counter attack to an incomming punch. Bring the lead hand up to the ear to protect the head and lean to the outside of the punch, ducking under it. Then execute the hook punch. It can be used form both the front and rear hands. The latter of the two will be discussed.

*Start in the fighting stance
*Slightly drop the rear hand and bring it back a little.
*As you bring it forwards, push the elbow out so that the forearm is parallel to the floor.
*Twist the hips and let the hand follow, bringing power into the punch. Pivoting on the ball of the rear foot.

The Uppercut

Target areas,#'s: 7, 8, 10, 26, 29

The uppercut is used to get up under the enemy's defense and into the body region. It can also be performed from both front and rear. The latter will be discussed.

*Begin in the fighting stance
*Drop your body weight slightly by bending your knees. You should also drop the rear shoulder bringing the palm to face your body.
*Push up with your legs and simultaneously push the rear hand up vertically and out towards the target. Be sure to twist the hips into the punch and pivot on the ball of the rear foot.
*The rear shoulder should have the effect of creating a small circular movement.

The Palm Heel Strike

Target areas,#'s: 2, 7, 8, 10, 14, 15, 16, 18, 23, 24, 26

The palm heel strike uses the base of the hands palm to perform a powerful strike, usually upwards forcing a particular section of the target further on.

*Begin in the fighting position
*Bring the lead hand up to the face to protect it.
*Step forward slightly with the lead foot.
*Turn the rear hand so that the palm faces away from your body
*Extend the fingers of the rear hand.
*Push the heel straight forwards to strike the target. Twist the hips as you do this to add power and speed.
*Quickly retrieve the hand and bring it back to the guard position.
*Ensure that you strike with the heel of the hand and keep the thumb tucked back.

Ridge Hand Strike

Target areas,#'s: 3, 5, 6, 9, 11, 12, 15, 24, 27, 29

This technique can be performed from either the lead or rear hand and can deliever a powerful, painful and immobilsing strike.

*Begin in the fighting stance.
*Extend the figures of the hand to be used and bring the thumb in across the palm, providing a 'knife' edge.
*Perfrom a hook like manouver, striking with the index finger edge of the hand. Be sure to keep the thumb tucked well in.

Elbow Strike

Target areas, #'s; 2, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 12, 23, 24

This strike is effective in close combat, and can be delievered with either arm. It can provide a powerful immobilizing attack to the enemy.

*Begin in the fighting position
*Keep the hand near to the shoulder and perform a hook manouver.
*Strike with the point of the elbow and twist the body into the attack.

Rising Elbow Strike

Target areas, #'s: 6, 7, 8, 10

This can be used in place of an upper cut in close combat, and can also be delievered from either arm. It can produce disasterous effects including death.

*Begin in the fighting position
*Bring the fist up the shoulder
*Bend the knees and as the legs are straigthened-
*Push the point of the elbow striaght up and slightly out to meet the target.
*Ensure a good body twist for full damage

Basic Kicking Techniques

The Front Kick

Target areas,#'s; 23, 24, 26, 27, 31, 32

This is the first technique taught to the begginer in most martial arts. It is often used to stop a lunging attack and, once learnt correctly, can have devestating effects. All kicking techniques can be performed from both legs. The most powerful of the two is the rear leg, therefore, this is the one which shall be described in all cases here after.

*Begin in the fighting position
*Lift the rear knee up close to the chest
*Keeping the foot on the same horizontal path straighten the leg out leaning back and pushing your hips into the kick.
*Hit the target with the ball of the foot.
*Bring the knee back in by the chest before placing it back down, This is so that another kick can be executed quickly and with power if needed.

The Side Kick

Target areas,#'s: 16, 21, 22, 23, 24, 26, 31, 32

This is the most powerful of kicks. It can collapse a thoracic cage and is useful for stopping lunging attacks. This technique can become devestatingly powerful by stepping the rear leg behind the front leg then executing the side kick from the front leg.

*Start in the fighting stance
*Bring the rear leg up to the chest
*Pivot on the base foot so that the toes point away from you to the rear. The leg should naturally turn horizontal.
*Push the foot out to create an imaginary line fom the shoulder down the hip and to the heel.
*Strike the target area with the outside edge of the foot.
*As before, pull the leg back to the chest before placing it down.

The Roundhouse Kick or Turning Kick

Target areas,#'s: 17, 21, 23, 24, and legs

This kick can be performed with tremendous speed and power, breaking ribs, legs and arms if correctly applied. Proffessional martial artists can knock someone out and sometimes kill them with a turning kick to the head.

*Begin in the fighting stance
*Imagine/or place a chair next to your front foot and infront of your rear foot. Lift the rear knee high and bring it up and over the chair coming around pivoting on the ball of the base foot as before.
*Stop the knee before it goes past the imaginary line that runs through the body.
*At this point, allow the lower leg to continue keeping the knee where it is.
*After striking the target, keeping the knee still, bring the foot back so that the heel touches your bum. Then bring the knee back down coming back over the chair to the start position.

The Back Kick

Target areas,#'s: 23, 24, 26, 31, 32

The back kick can generate alot of power if performed correctly. It is not advisable unless you are already turning or have alot of time. This kick must be performed very fast so as to not be caught out.

*Start in the fighting stance.
*Bring the front foot across just passed the rear foot.
*Twist the whole body by pivoting on the balls of the feet. You should be in an opposite stance facing away from the enemy.
*Look over your, now front foot side, shoulder
*Lift the new front foot up
*Push the leg straight out behind you so that the knees nearly touch, leaning forward as you do so
*Strike the target with the heel of the foot.
*Bring the knee back up in front and, pivoting on the ball or heel of the base foot, resume the original stance facing the enemy.

Basic Blocks

The easiest way to block a punch is to move. It requires only a small movement of the head to avoid a punch. If the punch comes to the body then by simply twisting the hips and deflecting it with the ready positioned elbows or forearms will produce the desired effect. A block can be developed powerful enough to break the arm of a incoming punch.

Low Block

For: Kicks and attacks to the lower body.

*From the fighting stance;
*Twist the lead hand so that the palm is facing your body
*Push the forearm straight down stopping just passed the groin area.
*Instantly bring the blocking hand straight back up into the guard position.

High/Head Block

For: Punches and high downward attacks

*Start in the fighting position
*Bring the lead arm across the body so that your palm is are facing your ear.
*From there, push the forearm straight up twisting the hand as it reaches the attack so that the palm is facing away from you.
*Be sure that the block extends over the head by about one and half fist widths.
*Instantly bring the hand back into the guard position.

Elbow Block

For: Hooks and similar weapon attacks.

*Begin in the fighting position
*As the attack is seen, bring the arm closest to the attack up so that the fist is near the ear, and elbow pointing forward.
*Learn in towards the enemy and strike with a head butt, hook, punch, uppercut or similar strike.

Double Outer Forearm Block

For: Hooks, punches and similar weapon attacks.

*Start in the fighting position.
*Bring the rear gaurd forward in line with the lead hand.
*Twist the upper body 45 degrees into the attack.
*Slightly extend the forearms into the attack, moving them from the shoulders.

Full Body Block

For: Punches and kicks to the middle and high sections

*Begin in the fighting stance
*Perform a low block with the lead arm stopping at the groin area and twisting the shoulder into it.
*Simultaneously, bring the right hand across the front of the neck and extend the fingers out when the hand reaches the opposite side of the jaw.

COMMANDO FIGHTING TECHNIQUES

Chokes And Strangles

Chokes and strangles are often an effcetive way to maintain control or subdue an enemy. The main difference of the two is that the strangle cuts off blood supply to the brain and the choke cuts off the air supply. The strangle is the quicker of the two and is relatively painless in execution and on release does not normally permantly damage the enemy. The choke, however, can cause substatial damage to the throat and wind pipe and immediate recovery is not always certain.

Handclasp

1. Place the left palm facing upward on the enemy's left shoulder.
2. Take the right arm across and in front of the neck with the right hand on the left. Ensure that the inside cutting edge of the wrist is towards the throat.
3. Claps the hands together.
4. Pull the cutting edge of the right wrist into the throat in an inwards and upwards manner, using the body as a block.
5. With the legs wrapped around the enemy's body, work the right arm in front of the throat clasping the left hand. Pull the wrist tightly into the throat controlling the body with the legs. If he pulls his chin in, draw the head back with the left hand , grabbing the arm - drive the right arm into the throat, then quickly clasp the hands again.

The enemy will be fighting for his life, therefore, keep tight control, manipulate your arms into the appropriate positions.

Special Points: Essential to pull the enemy into the body for maximum effect, using the cutting edge of the wrist.

Sliding Scarf

1. Place the right hand round and in front of the enemy's throat.
2. Continue the movement round to the back of the neck, placing the thumb inside the clothing.
3. Take a firm hold of the clothing with the right hand, with the fingers outside and to the rear.
4. Bring the left arm round in front and underneath the right arm.
5. Grab the clothing with the thumb inside and fingers out.
6. Keeping the enemy's body pulled tightly back into your own pull across and to the right with the right arm and down and across to the left with the left arm.
7. With the legs wrapped around the enemy's body work both arms around the front of the neck.
8. Manipulate the right hand round the back of the neck grabbing the collar with the thumb inside, fingers out, simultaneously grabbing the cloth under the right arm with the left hand.
9. Apply pressure by pulling the right arm across and back to the right with the left arm pulling across and down to left. Keep the head well in.

Special Points: Essential that the right hand be placed as afr round the neck as possible in order to attain the maximum leverage.

Cross Scissors

1. Place the right hand inside the opponents clothing to the rear and right side of his neck, with the fingers inside and thumb out.
2. Take the left hand across and over the right and attack it in a similar manner on the left side.
3. Squeeze the neck tightly by pulling the hands back across in scissors action driving the elbows out to the side.
4. With the enemy facing - cross the hands and work to the sides and back of the neck grabbing the cohting, fingers inside and thumb out.
Apply pressure by pulling the elbows out to side. This attack is good when the enemy is laynig on their back.

Special Points: Essential that the hands are placed well to the rear of the neck for maximum leverage. Can also be accomplished with palms facing down or alternate one up, one down depending on circumstances.

Forearm Choke

1. Place the right hand thumb inside, fingers out, on the enemy's clothing to the right side of his neck.
2. Grab the front of the clothing with the left hand, fingers inside, thumb out. 3. Drive the outside cutting edge of the right arm into the side of the neck grabbing the clothing, thumb inside, fingers out.
Grab the clothing at the front with the left hand and apply pressure by driving the outside cutting edge of the right arm into the throat.
Effective against the floor or a wall where the opponent cannot learn back away from the direction of the force.

Special Points: Essential to keep the right elbow high and use the cutting edge of the wrist.

Wind Pipe Choke

1. Holding the opponent with the left hand make a vice with the right hand.
2. Grab the windpipe, fingers on the right side, thumb on the left.
3. Squeeze the wind pipe tightly trying to make a fist with the right hand.
4. Grab the enemy around the neck with the right arm spreading the legs wide to ensure a firm base.
Grab the windpipe with the left hand squeezing the fingers and thumb together to make a fist.
5. In addition to the windpipe choke - adopting the same position - the thumb of the left hand can be driven into the eye applying pressure inside and out.

Special Points: Esssential that the windpipe only is grabbed and not too much of the neck. Fingers should be together for maximum effect on the squeeze.

Nutcracker

1. Place the hands with the fingers pointing to the sides of the enemy's neck. 2. Grab the clothing at the sides of the neck with the fingers inside, thumbs out, and make a tight fist with each hand.
3. Drive the knuckles of each fist into the sides of the neck.
4. With the legs wrapped around the enemy's body grab the clothing at the side of the neck with the fingers inside, thumbs out.
5. Making a tight fist, drive the knuckles into the sides of the neck.

Special points: Essential that knuckles are strongly pressed into the veins and arteries of the neck for maximum effect. For maximum pressure ensure the cutting edge of the knuckles is pressed into the neck.

Arm And Wrist Locks

The are many arm and wrist locks which can be highly effective in controlling an enemy during a situation. However, most locks are enhanced by first shocking the enemy with another technique, such as a punch or kick.

Hair & Hammer Lock 1. Grab the enemy's right wrist from the rear with the right hand.
2. Move forward gripping the right elbow with the left hand.
3. Bend the arm behind the back hooking the lower arm in your left.
4. Grip the hair with the right hand
5. pull the haed hard to the rear.

Special Points: Essential to move forward when hooking enemy's arm in your left - this will help to bend the arm. Lift the enemy upwards to keep him off balance. This lock can also be used as defense by catching a straight hand strike on the outside of the wirst with the rear hand applying the lock. this method could be followed up with a japanese strangle hold (see sentry removal)

Chicken Wing Lock

1. Take hold of the enemy's right wrist with the right hand.
2. Slip the left thumb interlock with enemy.
3. Rotate the back of the left hand around the back of the enemy's hand.
4. Retaining the thumb hold, pull the wrist towards the body.
5. Pull the wrist towards the body with the right hand and slip the left palm under the back of his hand.
6. Take the enemy's elbow under the arm and apply upwards pressure.

Special Points: -

Wrist Lock And Throw

1. Grab the enemy's right arm with both thumbs to the back of the hand, fingers around the base of the palm applying wrist lock.
2. Twist the hand over to left to begin a large circular movement.
3. Continue to apply pressure to the wrist by moving the body round to the left, force the enemy to the ground with the wrist lock.

Special Points: After the throw, a follow up technique such as a hand strike could be applied.

Body Throws And Sweeps

Body throws are very effective during close quarter combat when an enemy presents themself open to the type of technique. Leg sweeps, on the other hand, can be effective from a longer range and are especially useful when moving in on the enemy.

Hip Throw Against Punch

1. Enemy attacks with a left puch to the body. Move forward to block the pucnh with a right downward block.
2. Block the punch as the right leg steps forward and through.
3. Take the right hand round the back of the enemy smothering and grabbing his right arm with your left.
4. Bring the left leg into the right and pull with the left hand getting the hip into and under the enemy's body.
5. Drive upwards with the legs and hip pulling the enemy over with both arms.
6. Drop the enemy down in front and raise the right arm to prepare for a counter.
7. Counter with a downward punch to the face.

Special Points: Ensure that the hip moves well through and into the opponents body with both legs underneath for maximum upward drive. It is essential in throws of this type to pull the enemy hard into the body to assist leverage. The enemy should also be driven strongly into the ground.

Front Body Drop Against Punch

1. Enemy attacks with a right punch to the head. Block the punch with a left head block.
2. As you block, grip the clothing pulling the arm down and move forward taking the right hand to the left collar.
3. Grab the clothing behind the neck with the right hand asthe right leg moves forward.
4. Continue the movement of the right leg forward and through puliling the enemy hard into the side and twist hard round to the left.
5. Continue turning to the left pulling with both arms until the enemy falls over the right leg. As enemy drops over the leg release the grip with the right hand so as not to fall to the ground.
6. Raise the right hand and prepare for a counter.
7. Counter with a right downward punch to the kidneys.

Special Points: Essential to drive into the enemy pulling back as soon as possible to stop him bending forward out of the throw.

Outside Sweep

1. Enemy attacks with a left front kick.
2. Move to the right, blocking the kick with a left low block.
3. Move forward grabbing the enemy by the arm and shoulder.
4. Sweep the leg pulling the enemy to the rear with both arms.
5. Control the enemy on the ground.
6. Press down onto the side with the left nee and raise the right arm to counter.
7. Drive the right fist into the face.

Special Points: Essential that the sweeping leg is brought quickly back to regain balance and assist with backward momentum.

Inside Sweep

1. Enemy attacks with a left punch to the head.
2. Grab the punching arm with the right hand grabbing the clothing on the shoulder with the left.
3. Drive the left foot to the inside of the enemy's left leg.
4. Sweep the leg pulling forward with the left hand.
5. Continue to pull taking the enemy over and to the ground. Assist the turn by lifting up and over with the right hand.
6. Keeping a firm hold with the right hand raise the left arm to counter.
7. strike down to the face with a left fist.

Special Points: Essential to co-ordinate the pull and the sweep for maximum effect.

Outside Hook

1. Enemy attacks with a right punch to the head. Evade the punch with a double arm block to the outside of the punch.
2. Grab the punching arm with both hands hooking the right foot behind the front ankle.
3. Lift the foot forwards and up pulling to the rear with both hands. As with the 'outside sweep' pull thehooking leg quickly back to the rear to regain balance.
4. Drop onto body with the right knee lifting the right arm to counter.
5. Drive the right fist down into the groin.

Special Points: Essentail to hook leg forward and up to break the balance.

Inside Hook

1. Enemy attacks by grabbing the upper body and attepting a knee strike. Lower the body smothering the attack taking the left arm down under the attacking leg.
2. Grab the leg with the left arm taking the right arm around the back.
3. Step forward and through with the right leg hooking around the enemy's supporting leg.
4. Hook the leg and drive the enemy to the ground. Pull back before landing to maintain initiative and balance.
5. Control the head by forcing the right hand into the face.
6. Stand, lifting the leg, exposing the groin and raise right arm to counter.
7. Drive the right fist down into the groin. Special Points: The right hand comes away from the back before the enemy hits the floor. Lower onto the right knee to prevent falling on top and losing control.

GUN USE

For many centuries the gun has proven to be a vital part of any military operation. The gun is a system by which pieces of metal are force in a desired direction at a tremendous velocity by the use of small explosive charges. The following text will run over a few gun catagories and explain how they work and how to use them.

The Hand Gun

Hand guns generally come in two main types: A revolver, and a semi-automatic. The latter of the two is more commonly seen. The revolver works by means of a tumbler that usually houses 6 bullets. To load a revolver, there is usually a small bar under the barrel. This is pulled and the tumbler will fall out to one side. The bullets are then loaded into their respective holes in the tumbler. The tumbler is then pushed back into the original position and the trigger is pulled to release the rounds. For each trigger pull one round is released. The tumbler will rotate around to the position that the next bullet is and then it is ready to be shot once more.

The semi-automatic hand gun works on a different principle. The bullets are stored in a magazine, which is inserted into the handle of the gun until a click is heard. The bullets in the semi-automatic gun are stacked one on top of the other within the magazine. Once the magazine has been secured in the gun, the top slide must be pulled back. This is done by gripping the top of the gun with the thumb on one side and the side of the index finger on the other. The top is then pulled back then released. It will then spring into its original position. This action allows one bullet to move up into the barrel or chamber. After, the trigger has been squeezed and the shot fired, the top slide will automatically slide back as before releasing the spent shell and moving the next one into the chamber. After all of the rounds have been used the top slide will slide back as before and stay there. The magazine is then taken out by means of a catch or button on the side of the handle. The new magazine is then put in and a catch or lever usually on the left hand side is pushed down and the first round is then loaded. the safety catch on a semi-automatic hand gun is usually positioned on the left hand side above the thumb and is often indicated by a red dot when it is not on.

Aiming the hand gun

There are several methods to hold a hand gun or pistol. The most common of which is often known as the cup and saucer method. The pistol is gripped in, say, the right hand. The base of the handle on the gun is then placed in the palm of the 'left' hand and the fingers of the 'left' hand are curled up to grip the bottom of the gun. The gun is then aimed by straightening the 'right' hand, but keeping a slight bend in the elbow. The left leg is positioned ahead of the right and the aim is then taken up.

Rifles

There are literally many types of rifle. The basic principle is the same. These guns often also use a magazine and are loaded in much the same way as the semi-automatic hand gun. The difference comes in that there is no top slide but rather a lever on the right hand side. Once the magazine is in place the lever is pulled back by gripping it along the base of the fingers with the palm facing up and releasing.

Aiming the rifle

There are also many methods of aiming the rifle. The most common methed is to grip the handle with the right hand. Bring the rifle up to face in front of you running parallel to the ground. Place the barrel section of the rifle on an open left hand. The fingers should be on the right hand side and the thumb on the left. Curl the fingers and thumb around the barrel section. Keeping the left arm bent and the elbow tucked into the body. The right elbow is then raised so that the arm is parallel with the ground. The rear of the rifle, or butt, is then firmly tucked into the front of the right shoulder. The left leg is aprx. one shoulder witdth infront of the rear and apx. one shoulder width off to the side. The aim is then taken up.

Weapon handling

It is essential that you are capable of firing your weapon accurately and instinctively in the event of a situation arising. This can best be achieved if you understand and apply the following marksmanship principles.

A. The position and hold must be firm enough to support the weapon.

B. The weapon must point naturall at the target without any undue physical effort.

C. Sight alignment must be correct.

D. The shot should be released and followed through without disturbance to the aim.

Aiming

1. The influence of wind and other factors affect the fall of a shot. It will frequently be neccessary to aim away from the centre and at times off the target to attain a central hit.

2. In a gun fight an enemy may be located by muzzle flash, smoke or movement.

3. In the early stages of shooting training, a white patch is super imposed on the target. Always aim at the bottom of the patch. Initially it serves as a defined point of aim (POA) for grouping practices. Later, the patch will be used as a datum point for zeroing.

4. When engaging targets without a patch, select a POA that will apply fire to the target centre.

Aiming can never become instinctive, thogh practice can induce speed. Above all it requires concentration to achieve sight alignment together with the correct aim picture which is a four point relationship between the eye, the centre of the aperture, the tip of the foresight and the POA.

The final marksmanship principle is: the shot must be released and followed through without disturbance to the aim. If this is carried out correctly, providing that the correct aim and hold are adopted, the bullet will go in the direction in which the barrel is pointing.

Firing a shot

"The shot should be fired without disturbance to the aim". In oder to do this the position and hold must be stable and the weapon must point naturally at the target. Providing the rythm of breathing is controlled and the trigger is operated smoothly, the shot will be released and the bullet will leave the muzzle without any undue movement of the weapon.

Breath control

Breathing is a natural bodily function which will continue at a steady rate and without strain, untill an individual does something to disturb the cycle. It is important, therefore, to regulate and control the breathing during the time the shot is released and to do it without strain.

Trigger operation

During the period of breath restraint the aim must be perfected and the trigger operated to achieve a shot release without any alteration to the aim or to the grip.

Declaration

As the shot is fired the recoil action causes the weapon to move and the direction of this movement should be consistent for successive shots. Direction of movement can be indentified by consentrating on the aim picture throughout the process of trigger operation. When the direction of movement is not consistent with that of previous firing, it is an indication that all is not well, and it may be found that this particular shot will be displaced from the remainder of the group.

Remember! The ability to shoot well requires coordination and control of a number of skills and the consistent application of the previously mentioned marksmanship principles.

In battle or during range work, the strength and direction of the wind have a direct effect influence on the path of the bullet. It is essential that you make allowances to counter this influence and ensure a first round hit. It is also important to know how to react, should the shot miss the target.

Aiming off for elevation and direction.

Errors in elevation and direction can be overcome by changing the POA, for example if, fom the POA, the shot is seen to be high (300mm) and to the left (100mm), reaim low (300mm) and to the right (100mm) of the original POA. Errors in the elevation can only be corrected by altering the range setting. An alteration of one graduation on the range drum will alter the position of the mean point of impact (MPI) by approximately the same number of millimeters as the range of the target. ie. 200m = 200mm, 300m + 300mm, etc. When firing at small targets at ranges of 200m or less, aim at the bottom of the target.

Aiming off for wind.

Only a wind blowing across the front at ranges greater than 100m will make the bullet veer considerably. To allow for this, aim off to into the wind: the direction of the wind can be determined by its effect on the face, trees dust and smoke. The amount to aim off is determined by the strength of the wind.

1. A fresh wind has an appreciable effect on bushes and thin branches of trees and can be distinclty felt on the side of the face. It would cause flags to stand about half way out from the pole.

2. A strong wind has a noticable effect on tree tops and lifts dust off dry grounds. Range flags would tend to strain away from their poles.

In windy conditions at ranges greater than 100m the following POA should be used for fresh wind (10kph) and strong (20kph).

A. Fresh wind 200m : POA is halfway between the centre and the edge of the target.
B. Strong wind 200m: POA is at the edge of the target.
C. Fresh wind 300m: POA is at the edge of the target.
D. Strong wind 300m: POA is one target width from the centre of the target.

Gun Fight Situations

When in a gun fight situation, when possible, indentify the type of weapon used and identify the type and number of rounds associated with it. This way you will be able to count the bullets and catch the enemy on a reload. To count the rounds try not to mentally count 1,2,3,4 - rather let the pattern of shots enter you mind and asses them. Practice by watching films - people often use 8-9 rounds from a 6-round revolver. Be aware of extended magazines! When in a gunfight, do not always aim directly at the target. use knock on effects. If there is an explosive cylinder nearby the target aim for it and cancel the enemy that way. Likewise, loosly hung heavy or electrical objects can be knocked/shot down onto the enemy. If the enemy is standing in a pool of gas or petrol aim at the floor or metal object nearby. If the enemy is in a pool of water, aim to move an electrical applience into the watery area. Never watse ammunition. Take an aim as much as possible. With an automatic - use short, sharp, directed, bursts of fire. When under enemy fire - find cover. if none is available create some. Target any explosive or smoke/steam producing objects between you and the enemy. Open a car door an get behind it.

When engaged in a gun fight - take two shots at the target with out aiming whilst moving to cover. Once in cover, take aim and cancel the target.

Never reach for id with your gun hand.

SPECIAL AMMUNITION

Blow Guns

The blowgun is an interesting weapon which has several advantages. A blowgun can be extremely accurate, concealable, and deliver an explosive or poisoned projectile. The manufacture of an explosive dart or projectile is not difficult.

Perhaps the most simple design for such involves the use of a pill capsule, such as the kind that are taken for headaches or allergies. Empty gelatin pill capsules can be purchased from most health-food stores. Next, the capsule would be filled with an impact-sensitive explosive, such as mercury fulminate. An additional high explosive charge could be placed behind the impact sensitive explosive, if one of the larger capsules were used.

Finally, the explosive capsule would be reglued back together, and a tassel or cotton would be glued to the end containing the high explosive, to insure that the impact-detonating explosive struck the target first.

Such a device would probably be about 3/4 of an inch long. Care must be taken- if a powerful dart went off in the blowgun, you could easily blow the back of your head off.

Wrist Rockets And Sling Shots

A modern wristrocket is a formidable weapon. It can throw a shooter marble about 500 ft. with reasonable accuracy. Inside of 200 ft., it could well be lethal to a man or animal, if it struck in a vital area. Because of the relatively large sized projectile that can be used in a wristrocket, the wristrocket can be adapted to throw relatively powerful explosive projectiles.

A small segment of aluminum pipe could be made into an impact-detonating device by filling it with an impact-sensitive explosive material.

Also, such a pipe could be filled with a low-order explosive, and fitted with a fuse, which would be lit before the device was shot. One would have to make sure that the fuse was of sufficient length to insure that the device did not explode before it reached its intended target.

Finally, .22 caliber caps, such as the kind that are used in .22 caliber blank guns, make excellent exploding ammunition for wristrockets, but they must be used at a relatively close range, because of their light weight.

Firearms

When special ammunition is used in combination with the power and rapidity of modern firearms, it becomes very easy to take on a small army with a single weapon. It is possible to buy explosive ammunition, but that can be difficult to do. Such ammunition can also be manufactured in the home. There is, however, a risk involved with modifying any ammunition. If the ammunition is modified incorrectly, in such a way that it makes the bullet even the slightest bit wider, an explosion in the barrel of the weapon will occur.

Handguns

If an individual wished to produce explosive ammunition for his/her handgun, he/she could do it, provided that the person had an impact-sensitive explosive and a few simple tools. One would first purchase all lead bullets, and then make or acquire an impact-detonating explosive. By drilling a hole in a lead bullet with a drill, a space could be created for the placement of an explosive. After filling the hole with an explosive, it would be sealed in the bullet with a drop of hot wax from a candle. This hollow space design also works for putting poison in bullets.

Shotguns

Because of their large bore and high power, it is possible to create some extremely powerful special ammunition for use in shotguns. If a shotgun shell is opened at the top, and the shot removed, the shell can be re-closed. Then, if one can find a very smooth, lightweight wooden dowel that is close to the bore width of the shotgun, a person can make several types of shotgun-launched weapons.

Insert the dowel in the barrel of the shotgun with the shell without the shot in the firing chamber. Mark the dowel about six inches away from the end of the barrel, and remove it from the barrel.

Next, decide what type of explosive or incendiary device is to be used. This device can be a chemical fire bottle (sect. 3.43), a pipe bomb (sect 4.42), or a thermite bomb (sect 3.41 and 4.42). After the device is made, it must be securely attached to the dowel. When this is done, place the dowel back in the shotgun. The bomb or incendiary device should be on the end of the dowel.

Make sure that the device has a long enough fuse, light the fuse, and fire the shotgun. If the projectile is not too heavy, ranges of up to 300 ft are possible.

Special "grenade-launcher blanks" should be used- use of regular blank ammunition may cause the device to land perilously close to the user.

Compressed Air/Gas Weapons

This section deals with the manufacture of special ammunition for compressed air or compressed gas weapons, such as pump B.B guns, CO2 B.B guns, and .22 cal pellet guns. These weapons, although usually thought of as kids toys, can be made into rather dangerous weapons.

B.B GUNS

A B.B gun, for this manuscript, will be considered any type of rifle or pistol that uses compressed air or CO2 gas to fire a projectile with a caliber of .177, either B.B, or lead pellet. Such guns can have almost as high a muzzle velocity as a bullet-firing rifle. Because of the speed at which a .177 caliber projectile flies, an impact detonating projectile can easily be made that has a caliber of .177.

Most ammunition for guns of greater than .22 caliber use primers to ignite the powder in the bullet. These primers can be bought at gun stores, since many people like to reload their own bullets. Such primers detonate when struck by the firing pin of a gun. They will also detonate if they are thrown at a hard surface at a great speed.

Usually, they will also fit in the barrel of a .177 caliber gun. If they are inserted flat end first, they will detonate when the gun is fired at a hard surface. If such a primer is attached to a piece of thin metal tubing, such as that used in an antenna, the tube can be filled with an explosive, be sealed, and fired from a B.B gun.

The front primer is attached to the tubing with a drop of super glue. The tubing is then filled with an explosive, and the rear primer is glued on. Finally, a tassel, or a small piece of cotton is glued to the rear primer, to insure that the projectile strikes on the front primer. The entire projectile should be about 3/4 of an inch long.

.22 Caliber pellet guns

.22 caliber pellet gun usually is equivalent to a .22 cal rifle, at close ranges. Because of this, relatively large explosive projectiles can be adapted for use with .22 caliber air rifles. A design similar to that used in section 5.12 is suitable, since some capsules are about .22 caliber or smaller. Or, a design similar to that in section 5.31 could be used, only one would have to purchase black powder percussion caps, instead of ammunition primers, since there are percussion caps that are about .22 caliber. A #11 cap is too small, but anything larger will do nicely.

WEAPONS TACTICS

The assassin regards anything and everything as a weapon. From a firearm or sword, down to a feather in the enemy's throat. The key to successful defense using objects other than the empty hand is - Improvisation. The spine of a book can be used to deliver an effective strike to the throat or nasal area, as can a credit card. In ninjitsu the ninja would never perform a block as such, rather they would aim to attack the incoming threat. This can be kept in mind whenever using weapons.

Tips for weapons - To enforce the forearms and shins against attack. Wear shin guards with metal bones in. These can also be worn on the arm, although martial art forearm guards are available. They should be fitted with metal bars, plates or bones to ensure devatating blocks and protection from blade attacks. For defense against headlock manouvers, sewing pins should be carried in the outside edge of the top of trousers. Keep a knife in trouser pockets or fixed to a belt. Do not place in jacket pockets as these pockets are more prone to move and become twisted and unavailable in a combat situation.

This next section of text will run through a few weapons, both modern and traditional, and attempt to provide some insight into their use and substitutes.

Eskrima Sticks.

These are oriental weapons form india. They comprise of a hard wooden stick apx. the length of the users arm. They are often used in pairs. The following text will describe the basic use of the single eskrima stick.

Substitutes: Half a pool cue, tree branches, any short, straight, hard stick, pole or bar.

Application: attacks

*The weapon is held in the right hand, apx 1 1/2 widths of a fist from the base. The length of the weapon should extend forwards and away from the body. The left leg should lead as this allows you to block with the lead hand and strike with the weapon hand.

*An effective downward strike can be performed by moving the elbow into the centre of the body and allowing the furthest point of theweapon to execute a large circle by twisting the wrist inwards.. The point of the weapon should proceed straight down passed the knee and up passed the shoulder. Add power as the weapon goes round. This technique can be applied to areas such as the clavicle, sternocleidomastoid region and top of the head.

*Another technique is to bring the weapon around from the right hand side in a sweeping motion. This can be executed against areas like the temples, temporomandibular joint, liver, spleen, ribs, ears, arms legs and knees.

*The base of the weapon can also be used to strike the enemy by using a jabbing motion, in areas such as the temple and neck region, the spinal column, kidneys and ribs.

*The base can also be used as an effective uppercut type move. This would be used on areas such as the testes, nasal area and tip of the jaw.

*An alternative method of holding the weapon would be to place it in the right hand as before. Then bring the furthest piont straight up and over and behind the right shoulder. The left hand would then grasp the 'loose' end from under the right armpit. Form here a number of strike can be executed by both hands. This has the advantage that the enemy does not no where the strike will orignate from until it is to late.

Application: Blocks

*The weapon can also be used to generate some devestating blocks againgst a number of attacks.

*A simple downward block can be perfomed by bring the futhest point straight down passed the left hand side, ending just passed the right knee. The left hand is brought into the body to act as protection.

*A block to the middle section would be performed by bringing the right hand horizontally across to the left, keeping the base of the weapon parallel to the ground, and the length of the weapon vertical. Slightly shift the body weight to the right to add power. This block can be quickly followed up by a sweeping strike originating from the left side.

*A high section block can be executed by turning the weapon to fall across the body, with the further most point on the left side and the length parallel to the ground. Bend the legs, dropping the body weight as you push the right hand straight up above the head.

The Jo

The jo is the japanese short staff. It is apx. 5ft high or as tall as from the ground to the users shoulder. It is often made of a hard wood and is used on its own.

Substitutes: Pool cue, Broom stick, other poles, sticks and bars of apx. 5ft in length.

Application: attacks

*The jo is held apx. 2ft in from the right with the right hand, palm facing down. and apx. 2ft in from the left end with the left hand , palm facing up.

*The most effective strike is to pull the left hand in to the body while pushing the right hand out, striking the target with the right end. This can also be executed in the same fachion on the left side. By alternating, low right, middle left and high right, you can produce a fast combination of attacks. Always be sure to pull and push to gain maximum power. Target areas: legs, knees, arms, ribs, side of the neck, temporomandibular joint, ears, temples.

*Another technique is to move the left hand across to the right making the weapon become vertical on the right hand side. The right hand is then pushed upwards to perform an uppercut type move. From here, another strike can be executed by slightly lowering the right hand and placing the left hand so that the palm is facing the opposite wya to which it should. The right hand is then brought sharply down to the right hip and the left hand sharply brought down onto the target. Target areas: tip of the jaw, testes, nose, armpit. // clavicle, top of head.

*Another strike can be can be performed by moving the left end out to face away from the body on the right hand side, keeping the weapon parallel to the ground. Slide the right hand to the back of the right end. Step forward with the left leg and push with the right hand, allowing the weapon to slide through the left hand causing a 'stabbing' effect. This is useful when being charged at. Target areas: Groin, liver, spleen, throat, diaphragm, eyes.

Application: blocks

*Use the same methods as those used for the eskrima stick. However, keep both hands in position and use the central part of the weapon to take the attack.

The Knife

The knife is probably the most common weapon that will be incountered. Contrary to popular belief, the knife can be used as a method of attack and defense. More techniques will be discussed in -sentry removal.

Substitutes; Sharpe pieces of wood, glass, pens, small sticks, etc.

*There are two main methods to hold a knife. These will be discussed seperately.

*The first method is to take the knife, place it in the hand with the sharp edge facing across the body. Start with the hand flat out palm facing up. Place the knife across the base of the fingers, with the bottom of the handle facing you and the top pointing away, running just across the first bone sectionof the index finger. Curl the fingers in over the handle. Then place the thumb on top of the handle, nail facing up, and pointing in the direction of the blade.

Application: attacks

*The straight thrust is performed by pushing the knife hand straight forwards into the target. Target areas; heart, diaphragm, liver, spleen, kidneys, lungs.

*By performing a hook type motion, moving the knife to come into the target from the side, successful penetration and damage can be attianed. Target areas; Temples, jugular viens in the neck region, ears, mastoid, liver, spleen, kidneys, lungs

*Performing a straight thrust with the blade facing upwards, and causing the knife to rise into the target, a fatal penetration can be attained. Target areas: Liver, spleen, kidneys, diaphragm, heart, lungs.

Application: Defense

*There are not many defensive options using this method of handling the knife. The best ways to defened yourself against an attack is to use the blade to re-direct the attack, by pushing it out of the way.

Handling 2

*The second method of holding a knife is to adopt the ice pick grip. This can be seen as the method used by Steven Seagal in many of his films. Take the knife and place it in the hand exactly as before, however, this time the blade should be facing you as if you were about to stab yourself. The sharp edge must be gacing away from you so as to not cut your wrists during defensive moves.

Application: Attack

*One method of attack is to move the knife in a clockwise, circular motion (if in right hand, anti-clockwise if in left hand) puching the blade out across the target causing a slicing effect. Target areas: Chest, face, neck area.

*A second method is as above, but rising up in an uppercut manner, slicing the target vertically rather than horizontally. Target areas: Chest, throat, face.

*Turn the hand palm up and perform a hook motion, digging the blade into the target from the side. Target areas: side of body, neck area, ears, mastoid, side of the head.

*The above method can aslo be executed from the opposite side. Bring the knife hand to the opposite side of the body, turn the palm to face down. Thrust the knife out into the target from the side. Target areas; as before.

Application: Defense

*Use the blade to block any incoming attack by either, turning it to face away from the body and into the attack. Re-directing the attack away from your body and attacking it at the same time. This can be followed up by a strike as stated in point 3.

*If the attack comes from the other side, move the knife hand across the body to the opposite side, shifting the body weight to the knife hand side. A follow up can be executed as stated in point 4.

*By performing a basic low block, the blade can protect against a low section attack.

A Small Selection Of Other Weapons

The Glimmer Card

Based on the pocket weapon used by Steven Seagal in the film 'The Glimmer Man'. This weapon can be easily concealed and easily carried. The effects of the weapon can be fatal if used correctly. There are 3 ways to build an effective glimmer card. Number A is the most effective and, therefore, the most complex, number B is also very effective but less complex in construction, type C is the simplest to construct and is also effective:

A. Take an old credit card or pocket card of similar size and material. Using a very thin blade, cut a deep grove into the longest edge of the card. Now take two small razor blades (ie gillette sensor excel blades), and place into the grove blade pointing out. Secure with glue or by other appropriate means.

B. Take the card and, using glue or something similar, attatch the blades to the back of the card running down the longest edge.

C. Rather than using small blades, use a file to sharpen one length of the card into a cutting edge. This too will provide an extremly destructive device and can also prove to be fatal if used correctly. This method also looks less suspicious.

Nunchaku

The nunchaku is basicaly two pieces of heavy hard material, usually wood, connected by an end to each other via a cord or chain. There are two main types of nunchaku: Long handles and short connection, and shorter handles with a longer connection. The later type is recommended as they can be used in vice inducing techniques, strangles, strikes, whips, etc.

The simplest method of construction is to take a hard wood broom stick and cut two peices each being approximately 7.5 inches long. Take two nails and remove the flat heads. Bend the nail to form a U shape. Now take a length of chain (preferably bike combination lock chain) and cut a peice approximately 7-8 inches long. Using the nails, attach one end of the chain to a flat end of one of the 'handles' and repeat for the other.

A fake wash off tattoo design can now be placed onto the nunchaku and should be varnished to fix.

Blow Pipe

There are many ways to make a blowpipe, the following is probably the simplest method. It can also be improvised in times of need very quickly and effectively.

Take a MacDonalds straw, or any other thick straw.

Cut off the end of an old, or new, shoe lace - about 5-10mm from the hard plastic bit. The plastic bit must be on.

Get a pin and insert it up through the length of the end of shoe lace. from the cut end up and out the uncut/original end. Spread out the soft bit That is the dart. This can be improvised as follows: Take a pen and remove the insides.You have a the main body of the pen empty, this will be the blow pipe. Either use some of the above darts or, if there are none available, take a small piece of paper, roll it up so it will fit inside the pipe. This must be done in such a manner that the paper does'nt unroll when you let go. Push a pin through as before and the dart is complete. This can now be poisen tipped.

SENTRY REMOVAL

Knifing Techniques

The principle of Nyudaki No Jitsu is used to take advantage of the psychological weakness of a target. Nyudaki is translated from the Japanese to mean "idleness" or a "dislike for being industrious." It is advisable to select your target carefully. Bear three things in mind when seeking to discover the shortcomings of an enemy: first, never look down on the enemy and underestimate him; second, never fear the enemy and act without confidence; and third, never hesitate. In attacking your target, two facets should be considered: he must be killed as quickly as possible, and he must make no outcry. It is preferable to remove a target when he will be least missed, such as shortly after post checks, or going off for something.

Techniques

The following text will describe six basic assassination options: Slitting the throat, Kidney thrust, Subclavian artery thrust, jugular thrust, the heart thrust, the diaphragm thrust. In all cases, approach the target from behind to within three or four feet and assume a basic fighting stance, keeping low by bending the knees, holding the knife in the rear hand (right) while the lead arm (left) acts to seize and hold the enemy for the knife thrust. This will enable you to make a lightning strike by springing on him.

1.Slitting The Throat

Spring forward and cup the enemy chin with the left palm, lifting it clear of the throat. Draw the blade across the throat at the level of the cricoid cartilage, begging at the hilt and stroking to the tip. This attack slices the trachea, preventing any sort of outcry; then cuts deeper, severing the carotid sheath. The target dies within twelve seconds due to oxygen starvation of the brain. Unconsciousness occurs in five seconds.

2. Kidney Thrust

Spring forward, solidly whipping the left wrist into the enemy's trachea to prevent outcry. The effectiveness of this blow is easily demonstrated by tapping one's Adams apple with only one-twentieth of the force required. This action disrupts the phrenic nerve, causing the diaphragm to cease pumping air in and out of the lungs. Simultaneously drive the knife into the kidney horizontally. Cut to both sides by pushing and pulling the wrist side to side. Death results in thirty seconds and no help of man can prevent it.

3. Subclavian Artery Thrust

Spring forward and clamp the left hand over the mouth and nose in the method known as the one hand smother. Pulling the nose between your thumb and the first joint of the opposing index finger. Grip the jaws between the heel of the hand and the remaining finger tips. This method alone will require almost two minutes to produce unconsciousness. Holding the knife in the ice-pick grip (Steven Seagal style), thrust the point well down behind the clavicle (collarbone) and cut side to side. Death will result in three seconds from severing the subclavian artery.

4. Jugular Thrust

Spring forward and employ the one hand smother. Pull the enemy's head to the left and thrust the knife horizontally well into the leading edge of the sterno-cleio-mastoideus muscle running around the side of the neck. This severs the carotid sheath which contains the carotid artery, jugular vein, and vagus nerve. Cut side to side. Death ensures in twelve seconds, unconsciousness in five.

5. Heart Thrust

Spring forward, sliding your left arm over the enemy's right arm and up to clamp over his mouth from below. Bend him backwards, breaking his balance o the rear. Drive the knife slightly upward under the rib cage to penetrate the heart. Cut side to side. Death comes in three seconds, unconsciousness is induced instantly.

6. Diaphragm Thrust

Spring forward, solidly whipping the left wrist into the enemy's trachea to prevent outcry. Pulling the enemy's head slightly left, reach around with the right hand and drive the knife at a 45 degree upward angle just below the rib cage. Cut side to side. This rips the diaphragm muscle preventing oxygen intake. Death results in twelve seconds, unconsciousness fairly instantly.

ATTACKING FROM AMBUSH

There are three basic methods of attacking from ambush; from above, below and behind. The initial attack must always be totally incapacitating, while catching the enemy off guard.

1. Ambush From Above

Begin by gaining a position above the enemy hiding in a superior position and wait for the enemy to come into range. Bare in mind that when being attacked from above people seldom look up, and they tend to shoot under the target when firing up. Fix your gaze at the back of the enemy skull.

Drop on the enemy, striking him with your full weight. Employ the knees to strike the shoulder blades and drive him straight down, breaking your own fall with his body. Try not to land directly on his head; though this frequently snaps[ps the neck, the body does not fall properly. Should the enemy hear or sense the attack and turn the technique will still succeed.

Ride the enemy body to the ground, crushing his spine beneath you. Apply the coup de grace by striking the base of the skull with the rear hand, breaking the neck.

2. Ambush From Above

When cover is scarce or low, consider attacking from below. Select a point of concealment above which the enemy will pass and from which you may launch your assault unseen. Hidden low beside a door is a good example.

As the enemy passes, cup his rear foot in the palm of your hand ( lead arm ), simultaneously poising the knife in the rear hand.

Scoop the enemy foot forward as he shifts his weight forward onto his lead foot, lifting it clear of the ground and breaking his balance to the rear. Cock the knife beside your ear that faces away from the enemy in an ice pick grip.

As the enemy falls beside you, landing on his shoulders. Pivot over your lead knee and drive the knife downward into his heart. It is essential that you sweep the enemy as he takes his weight off his rear foot. This prevents him from saving himself by taking a quick step forward.

3. Ambush From Behind

Advance to a position behind the enemy, armed in this case with a garrote. This consists of a length of thin steel cable apx. two feet long. This could be substituted with a pair of nunchukas.

Wrap the ends of the cable around your fists and grip the central position with the thumbs.

Drop the garrote over the enemy's head and pull back with both hands, exerting sufficient pressure to force the enemy backward. His reaction will be to try to seize the garrote and relieve the pressure to his throat. This attack affects the trachea, preventing any outcry, as well as shutting off the blood supply to the brain through carotid artery.

Continue to exert choking pressure with the arms, crossing the fists behind the enemy neck. Drive the knee upward into the small of his back, breaking his spine. To finish him off, you can twist to your right, dropping him face down, and sit atop him on your knee until he ceases to struggle.

STRANGLE HOLDS

. The Rear Naked Choke

This is not a true strangle hold, but one in which the pressure of the forearm is directed against the windpipe. This hold is quite painful, causing the enemy to struggle more violently. This choke, however, will induce unconsciousness, usually if applied improperly.

2. Classical Method

Whip the left forearm around the enemy throat, striking him in the trachea with the inside edge of the wrist or hand. This action will cause him to inhale sharply. Continue the action until the crook of the left forearm/elbow lies against the injured trachea. The left bicep pressing the left side of the neck and the left forearm pressing the right side of the neck. Clamp the right fingertips behind the enemy skull with the fingertips behind his left ear. Grip your right bicep with your left palm. Relax the left arm pushing with the right palm. This is not a punishing hold to the enemy, since he could still breath if your throat strike had not damaged the phrenic nerve. Pressure is, instead, applied to the sides of the neck, specifically against the carotid artery. When the blood supply to the brain is cut off, unconsciousness results in five seconds. If the hold is improperly performed and only one artery is cut off it will take ten to fifteen.

The Tel Shia technique is useful should the enemy seek to escape by reaching behind to strike your groin. Extend the fingers of both hands forming the Shuto with each (spear hand/chop position), then step quickly back with the right leg pulling him down. This action will rip the skull from the spinal column resulting in instant death.

CAPTURE IN PASSING

Inpo, the art of hiding, taught how to remain unseen to the enemy. Tonpo, likewise, teaches us how to vanish from the view of the enemy.

1. Clouding The Mind

This method is employed when the enemy is poised in a wide stance, but has not yet advanced. Lower the body for better balance. Relax both wrists so the hands hang loosely with the backs to the enemy. Raise the hands, arms extended between you, aiming the back of the wrists at the enemy face. You must do this not so slowly that he reacts before you and not so fast that he ignores the movement. Watch your own hands- they will induce the enemy to do like wise. The idea is to focus his attention on your hands.

Step quickly forward, lowering the body still more. This will move the hands forward but, since the arms are not moving and the perspective is foreshortened, you will be upon him before he has chance to react. Flick the backs of your hands forward. He will flinch or blink.

Immediately as you flash or haze the enemy, drop straight down over the feet in a squatting position. The enemy will raise his guard and block you from view.

As you sink out of sight, and see the enemy lifting his guard, tuck your head into you chest, round the shoulders, and push off with both feet. Execute a forward roll as your hands touch the ground behind/to the side of him. This will enable you to vanish downward to a position ten feet away. Preferably roll into a pre-selected point of concealment.

2. Vaulting The Enemy

This method is employed when the enemy attempts a low line attack, such as a leg dive or tackle.

The enemy steps forwards, dropping the shoulders and reaching for the knees. Effect a back-out step by slapping down onto his back and sliding both feet to the rear. This prevents the leg dive and stalls the enemy in a forward stance.

Push off with both hands and jump straight up spreading the legs. The combination of the enemy's forward momentum and your own spring will carry him under you. Some practitioners prefer to grip the head when vaulting, thus insuring that it remain low enough to prevent accidental groin injury.

Any type of Roman Horse vault will suffice to clear the enemy, depending on the agility of the practitioner and the depth of the enemy attack. In this way one vanishes upward to about three or five feet behind the enemy. Also you could execute a back kick as you land, then fall into a forward roll, carrying you into a pre-selected point of concealment. Therefore, covering more distance and obtaining a good hiding place.

3. Go Behind Step

This method requires an external distraction to be truly effective. Two methods are preferred, one being Kiai, the spirit shout. This is a belly shout drawn from the Hara. It is a scream of total commitment. Charge the enemy from out of range, feinting a ferocious attack to the eyes. This attack must be sufficiently terrifying to startle the enemy and make him cover his own eyes in defence.

"Sand in the eyes", is the second distraction which is used to temporarily blind the enemy. A handful of dirt will do nicely for this technique.

Cup the right palm lightly, keeping the dust concealed from the enemy. Swing the arm in a semi-circular arc, crossing from the right to left hip, up to the left shoulder, then back in front of the right shoulder. Abruptly stop the right palm in an extended shoulder block position, casting the powder into the face of the enemy. As you begin the casting movement, step forward with the left. this will give the impression that you are planning your escape in that direction.

As the enemy gropes forward into what he believes to be your position, duck under his attack to his lead side. In this way you will have less distance to get behind him. This is a variation of the spinning back pivot. Fix your attention on the left temple of the enemy. This is where you will strike him should he not have been blinded.

If you are close enough to the enemy, the action of casting will carry your extended fingertips horizontally across his eyes producing the desired effect.

Execute the second half of the lost track pivot, slipping by the enemy as his grasp closes on emptiness. You are now invisible behind his own left shoulder. Continue to target his left temple. You may now pivot into the final lost track pivot position and assume a stance behind the enemy, or dart behind cover to vanish, or simply flee.

In this way, you vanish completely - in full view of the enemy.

LYING METHODOLOGY

At numerous times, the assasin will be confronted with a situation in which they will need to lie or bend the truth in order to preserve information. The best way to lie is to tell the truth. When asked if you've been smoking drugs in the house, answer 'yeah of course I have. And I throw the butt out the window so you wouldn't know'. This must said in a sarcastic manner. If they question you again, reply, 'Do you really think I have?' If asked again - 'If you think I did then I have already been convicted and whatever I say will not change your opinion'. This way you avoid the question. And because you are in fact telling the truth, you cannot get accussed of lying in the future if the subject comes to light again. However, it must be stressed that this method should never be used against authoritive figures such as the police. They will take everything at face value. The main points to be stressed are that the assasin, when wishing to keep the truth, should always act naturally, both in attitude and body posture. A lie can be detected when the subject becomes defensive. This can include a strong, demanding manner of speaking, and a defense body position such as crossing the arms. Eye contact should be kept at all times. However, if the subject is known to lack confidence and rarely make eye contact, this should not be invoked, the natural, daily manner should be adopted. Likewise, the eye contact should not be piercing and demanding itself. Simply just looking at the questioner will provide the desired result. The assasin should aim the point of eye contact between the eyes of the questioner. This provides the contact the questioner is looking for and reduces the ability of the questioner analyzing the subject as no direct eye contact is being giving. This method also provides a more relaxed state for the assasin.

Movement is also a give away to a lie. Fidgiting, rocking and playing with body parts, such as the fingers, face, hair, etc. Project a sense of nervouness which can also be connected to guilt. Having said this, the subject, by no means, should keep excessively still, or in a stiff posture. The assasin should remain calm, consciousless and relaxed at all times. This will aid in the natural flow of the answers rather than a nervous approach.

Many figues of authority will back up their own statements with false accounts in order to gain the truth. The subject should also back up the statements used. The closer to the truth they are the better they will work. The assasin should always approach the situation as though they are the only one involved in a particalar incident. If the questioner refers to 'statements' made by the assasins colleagues the assasin should disregard any of these statements as they are more often a fabrication in themselves. Likewise, any apparent 'witnesses' to the events should also be considerd fabrications. This is an attempt to instill doubt into the subjects mind, and once this has settled in the questioner can break it down to the truth. Another method used by authorative figures is to raise their voice, threat and otherwise instill fear into the subject. The assasin should remain calm and relax and dismiss any such approach. At no point should the assasin become irritated or loose control as this is the point at which mistakes, confusions and errors are made.

In order for the questioner to believe what the subject is saying, the subject must come across in a convincing, confident and believable manner. There must, however, be no cockyness projected at any time by the assasin. For this to be executed succesfully, the assasin must, also, believe what they are saying. This means that even when the questioner demands the subject is wrong, they must stand their ground and demand, in return, that they are right. As soon as the slightest amount of doubt falls on on either party, they have lost. If an awkward question is asked, the assasin must have the ability to improvise in a very short amount of time. This can often be aided by a slow answer explaining the difficulty in answering the question. This will provide the subject with more time in which to come up with the answer. Other aids in providing an answer to a difficult question can be by the use of objects in the room, these will provide cues to which the assasin can base the answer upon. The full recollection of events should complement each other. Extra points that were not mentioned before should not be added in at a latter date as this will project a sense of fabrication towards the questioner. The recollection should also never change. Changes in the 'story' can be easily picked up by most people who will then question that fact by cross-referencing it with previous statements. This will result in a poor reasoning, and cast alot of suspicion over the subject. A well used method is to base the fabrication on an actual event. This way the answers will be provided in a much clearer manner as the event truly took place and will help the assasin in providing a false account as the events took place in the assasins mind. Therefore, to the assasin, the statements are not in fact false.

Another well used method, for the purpose of fabrication, is to answer a question with a question. This may not be a direct question but an attempt to avoid answering the original question.

Above all, the subject must remain calm, relaxed and believe in what they are saying.

LIE DETECTOR TESTS When you are subjected to a lie detector, they are measuring your physical responses to psychological stimuli. It's something like watching you to see if you blush. There are four levels they can measure.

1. Your response when you are just sitting there, not being asked anything.

2. Your response when you are asked a question you would have no reason to lie about. "What is your name?"

3. Your response when asked a question they consider personal or embarrassing to most people. "Have you ever wondered what it would be like to have sex with your mother?" I think only the government would have enough nerve to actually do this.

4. Your response to the questions they suspect you might lie about.

What they are looking for is whether your #4 responses are closer to #2 or #3, and if the difference is significant with respect to #1.

If your response level to #3 is much higher than any of the others, you are clearly telling the truth about #4.

If your responses to #1, #2, and #4 are low, and #3 is high, they think you are telling the truth.

If your responses to #1, #2, #3, and #4 are all the same, they think that you are either a psychopath or extremely well-adjusted and telling the truth.

If your responses to #1 and #2 are low but #3 and #4 are high, they think you are lying.

If your responses to #2, #3, and #4 are high, they think you are very nervous and they call the result "inconclusive."

This last result is easiest for most people to fabricate. The assasin would simply need to think about something embarrassing each time they ask a question. You must not relax, except between questions. A more risky alternative would be to try to relax during the questions you're going to lie about, but not during the "embarrassing" questions. If successful, this would produce the "normal truth" result they prefer to see most. If it failed, it would give the "lie" result. If you take some form of tranquilizer beforehand, you may be able to relax enough to get the "psychopath" response. This can be achieved by emptying out a disolveable plastic shelled medication tablet such as a paracetamol. This could then be filled with marijuana or similar tranquilizer. The capsule would then be reconstructed and taken shortly before the lie detection test is due to begin.

One practice method would be to wire yourself to an ohmmeter. One wire wrapped around the left index finger, the other wrapped around the right. If the reading drops from (for exapmle) 100 K-Ohms to a third of that, a lie has just been recorded. The assasin should practice lying through this means to become skilled.

However, the best method to pass a lie detector test, is to not have to take one at all. Normally if the authorities want you to take a lie detector test, then will want you to sign a piece of paper saying they are not responsible for anything that happens to you (i.e. electric shocks from sweating, internal physiological damage, etc.) However, if you believe that a lie detector test request is immanent, writing up a form saying that they are most defiantly responsible for anything that happens to you and inserting a large figure of money will usually result in the lie detector test being dismissed. This is due to the fact that they have you sign a release form, this means that people in the past have been subjected to damage of some sort and sued the the test administrators. Therefore, if you hold them responsible the chances are that you will not have be asked to take the test.

Another way to beat a lie detector test is to believe in what you are saying. People who are compulsive liar can beat lie detectors with little effort, because in their own mind everything they say is the truth to them. This is the mind set the assasin must get into if they are going to beat the test.

"Chicago is the capital of the United States."

That is false, but can be answered yes on a lie detector test and have it come up as the truth, because in the mind it is believed that Chicago is the capital of the United States.

Another method is to be completely at ease when you are taking the test. Control your breathing and take the same amount of time in between each question. A good method is to inhale twice and exhale twice before answering each question. Another way to do this is to count back from four each time you are going answer. This allows you to concentrate on the counting of numbers before you answer the question.

Remember, you know what you have done, so don't be surprised when they ask you something regarding that event. That will be coming, so must be expected.

When a lie detector test is given, they will need to establish a base line, to gauge the rest of the questions off of. Normally they will need one truth and one lie. They will ask you "Is XXX your name," and "Are you from Mars". You will need to answer yes to both questions. One good method to displace the baseline, is to load the "yes" question.

Asking your name is 95 times out of 100 what will be asked. A good way to make sure they can't use this on your baseline is believe your name is something other than what they will ask. For instance, if they ask your name, ie Peter Brown. You can add something to your name like Peter Brown-ing. That way when they ask your is this your name, and you say yes (You will be required to say yes) you are actually lying to them. If you lie, they can not establish a baseline. They do not know you are lying so they establish the baseline off of this. The results after such a test are extremely confused and it is extremely difficult to decipher it.

THE ART OF ESCAPING

For the most part, the escape route should be the same as the penetration route. It should be retraced stealthily, as if one were entering instead of leaving; indeed, this is penetration outwards. The reason for using the same route is that it is less likely to be discovered. Also, since the route has been used once, it is far move familiar. Great care must be taken not to let ones guard down during escaping.

No one can plan for all contingencies, but one can try. To this end, at least two other escape routes should be available, one directly opposite and the other veering ninety degrees from the original path. These are to be employed in the event of the primary routes discovery.

In selecting the primary route, look for means to employ stealth. In selecting alternatives, look first for means to employ speed and cover. Second look for areas where distractions can be created. If possible, locate and prepare an escape route from the guardhouse for use incase of capture. Bare in mind that when being pursued, it may be necessary to stand and fight. Select points along the way that have advantageous high ground. In short, any spot where the enemy will be hampered by obstacles can be used to ones advantage.

1. Crashing Out

The first principle of escaping is to do it as quickly as possible. The longer you remain in enemy control, the less likely you are to escape. Should you be discovered or captured in will be necessary to consider crashing out.

Locked doors which open outwards may be kicked open using a side or stamp kick. Direct the force at the door jamb with the bolt.

The shoulder can also be used to pass through locked doors. When striking with the shoulder, apply pressure as near the center as possible. This will bend the door, pulling the lock away from the frame springing it open. Doors with panels will shatter, causing you to fall forward. It is necessary to execute a forward roll out to avoid loosing momentum. Striking with the shoulder may also be used against flimsy doors which open inward. To accomplish this feat requires a short running start to gain momentum and impact.

A third possibility is closed windows. Again it is essential to execute a forward roll on impact to avoid injury and maintain momentum. In the case of diving out , you will land on your hands which will collapse allowing the shoulders to take the brunt of the impact.

Diving through windows is not recommended, though it may be necessary if it cannot be compromised. In this event you should cross both arms over the head, to protect it, and dive forward. Extend the arms to break your fall once clear of the window, not before. Sufficient momentum must be generated to clear the window sill, as jagged glass in the frame will slash you. NEVER dive through large windows. The upper portion will fall and spear you before you can clear the space. In this case break the window first and then make your escape.

2. Drop Toe Hold

The following is employed when one is detained in the military frisk position.

( Enemy coming from left)- Note that the enemy hooks your leg with his left leg ready to sweep you should you resist. His left hand presses your back, locking his vertebrae and causing him to lift his pistol over his arm.

As pressure is applied to your back, tuck your arms in and twist to your left rear. Break this fall by seizing the enemy's right wrist, pulling him forward and turning the weapon to the outside. Land on your left hip, driving your left knee behind his left knee. Catch his left ankle with the crotch of your right knee. Performing the classic scissor take down. Drive your right palm up into his left hip socket. Watch the weapon as he may accidentally get off a shot.

Pull down and push up with your hands. Swing the enemy's body weight to the right slamming him into the wall, car .etc.

This technique must be executed with blinding speed.

3. Handcuff Switch

The enemy moves in and orders your hands atop your head. He moves into position behind you and reaches up to take your right arm into a hammer lock, needed to put on the cuffs.

The enemy pulls your arm behind your back. This is the best moment to attack since he has to either reach for his cuffs or holster his weapon. His attention will be distracted.

Step to the right with your foot, pivoting on the ball of the right foot, and reversing the enemy's wrist lock by lifting it over your head and seizing his arm. Slap the enemy weapon to the outside with left hand by crossing the body. This is known as a cross push block. If he has holstered his weapon, strike him in the rib cage as you turn.

Slide-step with the right foot, to a position even with the enemy. Step to his rear with your left foot, maintaining your grip on his wrist. Pull downward in a semi-circular arc with your right hand twisting the enemy's right arm into the hammer lock. Seize the enemy's left wrist from behind to prevent his executing a similar reverse.

4. Tearing Off The Finger

At a face off with the enemy, slap down with the right hand, clamping the pistol. Be sure that the web of the hand falls between the hammer and the firing pin, to prevent discharging a round, and the weapon must be deflected down and to the left side. Berrettas and the like also seize to work when the top slide is pushed back, with revolvers, holding the cylinder prevents it from turning and therefore firing.

Having grasped the pistol, twist the barrel back toward the enemy, trapping his finger in the trigger guard. If the enemy resists, which is probable, step back and pull down with the hands. The finger will dislocate at the knuckle and the finger can easily be torn off using the metal edges of the trigger guard.

5. Escape From a Headlock

From a right side head lock; Pinch the ulnar or radial nerve in the enemy's wrist to slightly release his grip. Turn to the enemy body. Reach up from behind with the left arm and clamp your hand over the enemy's mouth. Ensuring the top edge pushes into the philtrum, just below the nose, causing great pain should he resist. Step out and forward with your right leg, pivoting around and pulling the enemy round to the left. Drop to the right knee keeping the left knee pointed up drop the enemy down pulling his head past the knee. this will break his back and sometimes cause instant death.

6. Standing Switch

Should the enemy seize you about the waist in seeking to capture you, it's possible to reverse positions with him or escape by employing the standing switch.

As the waist cinch is secured, drive your left arm down along the inside of the enemy's knee. This locks his elbow between your hip and tricep. Toe-out with the left foot and drop the left shoulder.

Pivot on the ball of the foot, swinging the right leg for added momentum. This action will certainly break the waist cinch or dislocate the enemy's elbow. Step behind the enemy with your right foot, maintaining a grip on his thigh with your left hand. From here you may step behind with the left foot and cinch him, or slide up and apply the Japanese strangle.

7. Wheel Throw

Should the enemy seize you by both wrists, free your hands by rotating them to the outside line. Aim to break the enemy's grip were the thumb and index finger meet as this is the weakest point. Step forward with the left foot, striking with double palm heels to the enemy chest. This will drive him slightly back, breaking his balance to the rear. Grip the enemy lapels with both hands. If lapels are not available, cup both hands behind his head.

Maintaining your hold on the enemy, sit down near your left heel, pulling him forward and onto you, taking advantage of his natural reaction in trying to save himself from being pushed backward. Kick up with the right leg. Strike the enemy groin or Hara (diaphragm area).

Use your grip to the enemy to support him over you. This prevents his falling forward too fast and striking you with his head. Place the left foot in the enemy's Hara and push up strongly with both legs, lifting him off the ground.

Push the enemy clear allowing him to backfall to a head to head position above you. The impact alone of this fall is sufficient to drive the air from his lungs and incapacitate him. Using your grip on the enemy to maintain your momentum, execute a back roll swinging the feet overhead, tucking the head to one side, and pulling with both hands.

Completing the back roll, land the buttocks on the enemy chest, driving the sir from his lungs and crushing the chest cavity. With both knees landing on his biceps, rupturing the muscles, execute a palm heel strike to the chin, snapping his neck.

8. Twin Dragon Fist

* These techniques are used when the enemy is successful in cornering you and launches a fist attack. They result in the enemy's permanent blindness, making possible your escape.

Should the enemy throw a right arm punch, fall back slightly and counter with a mirror block. Your right arm comes across your body, palm inwards then pushes the enemy strike across his body as you come back across your own body. Twist the wrist to face palm out just before the strike connects. Aim for the wrist, thus striking the ulnar nerve and numbing the enemy arm.

Immediately grasp the enemy wrist, with the same hand, pulling him forward. As he looses balance and comes forward, extend the left hand palm down, with the index and middle fingers outstretched. This forms the Twin Dragon Fist. Do not stiffen the fingers as this will cause them to break on impact. Do not drive forward with the fingers, rather impale the enemy eyes onto them. No great amount of strength is require- only accuracy.

* If the enemy is more cautious and launches a left jab or hook, fall back slightly, executing a right shoulder block. The arm comes across to the left of your body palm Out. As it comes back across, as before, twist the wrist to face palm in, blocking the attack. Keep the arm bent. This attack strikes attacks the radial nerve. This action opens the enemy center line to attack.

Before the enemy's arm can be recovered from his left jab, strike out from the right arm with the Twin Dragon Fist, attacking the eyes. Imitate the action of a serpent attacking. Use the left arm to perform a depressing forearm block (push the enemy jab down with the left palm) pulling it slightly across the body to stop any counter attack.

EXPLOSIVES TECHNIQUES

Types Of Explosives

Explosives are normally classified into three categories, based on their use in munitions, as primary, booster and main charge explosives. The primary explosive is the most sensitive to initiation and is used to initiate the functioning sequence. The booster explosive is intermediate in sensitivity and is more readily initiated than the main charge. When in doubt about the classification of an explosive, it should always be treated as a primary or initiating explosive until tests have clearly defined its properties as being otherwise. This classification scheme has greatest validity when applied to pure explosive compounds. When dealing with explosive mixtures deviations will almost always occur.

Evaluation Of Explosive Compounds

A visual inspection of the structural formula of the compound - if that information is available - and a calculation of the oxygen balance will provide an initial clue concerning the probable hazard. Before more than 1 gram of a new explosive is handled, it is advisable that the following sequence of tests be performed, in the order given:

1) Match Flame Test
2) Differential Thermal Analysis
3) Thermogravimetric Analysis
4) Impact Sensitivity
5) Friction Sensitivity
6) Electrostatic Sensitivity
7) Explosion Temperature.

These tests are designed to determine whether the compound can be handled at all, and if so, with what care.

The sensitivity of a compound must be determined first. Not more than one gram of a solvent wet or dissolved explosive should be prepared because even this amount, if detonated in glass equipment, is sufficient to kill an unprotected person. Furthermore, if groups such as the azido, diazo, -N(Cl)NO2 are involved, the initial sample amount should be limited to 0.2 to 0.3 grams, and adequate safety precautions taken. It is advisable to keep the intial quantities wet and to remove and dry the small quantities required for each test - usually only a few milligrams. The match test is a qualtative but useful guide to the sensitivity of new compounds. For this test, approximately 10 mg of the compound is placed on the tip of a wooden handled spatula having a blade about an inch long, and the spatula is balanced over the edge of a suitable surface with the blade hanging over the edge. A small flame from a matchheld with a pair of tongs is then held below the blade about 2 cm from the sample. If the sample burns with flashing, or of detonation occurs, the material should be handled as an explosive. Never heat any substance in a closed container. Based on the resul of the match test, a DTA and TGA should be run on mg samples to determine their thermal stability. Steep exotherms should be taken as indications of explosive hazards. The impact sensitivity should be performed on one of the customary impact testers, using again milligram quantities of the material. Bureau of Mines values of 20 or less, or Ball Drop values of the order of 100 cm or less, or Picatinny Arsenal Impact Test values of 15 cm or less, all indicate that the explosive be treated as a primary exposive, in the class of Lead Azide or Mercury Fulminate. Such substances should be stored wet in conductive rubber containers and the quantities should be kept small.

Evaluation Of Explosive Mixtures

Compounds consisting of a standard explosive and intet additives have properties which are essentially those of the explosive. (Note that such additives may easily change friction or impact sensitivity). Before preparing sizable amounts of an explosive mixture, a sample must be subjected to the previously described sensitivity tests. The results will give a reasonably reliable basis for deciding whether an experimental explosive composition should be further evaluated.

Igniters And First Fires

Igniter powders are energetic materials which can react with destructive force. Under confinement, reaction is rapid and the hazard is increased from both the increased pressure and possible fragments which may result from bursting of the container. Igniter powders must burn and also have a very low brisance. These conditions limit such mixtures to combination of fuels and oxidants such as perchlorates, chlorates, nitrates, permanganates, oxides or peroxides mixed with sufur, charcoal or aromatic compounds such as naphthalene or oil. (Note that some chlorates will detonate, under the right conditions). Batches ranging form 1 to 1.5 g should be prepared for a preliminary evaluation of properties, as follows. All components except the oxygen carrier are placed on a conductive mat behind a barricade and mixed with a non-metallic spatula. Gloves should be worn to protect the hands. The oxygen carrier is then added, and the mixing is continued as before except that the mix is turned over with a spatula, rather than being rubbed. (I prefer the even better method of using the 'diaper/newspaper' method, where the mixture is rolled together by lifting alternate corners of the mixing sheet). Mixing is continued until the compositioon appears uniform to the eye, after which it is transferred to a conductive rubber container. If the preliminary composition is sufficiently insensitive to impact and if it has satisfactory low brisance, the next step is to prepare a lab batch of the explosive. This lot is blended by intimately mixing in a mortar, using a wooden or other non-metallic pestle, as in general metallic or porcelain pestles should be avoided. The oxygen carrier should alway be added last. If a meterial that inherently carries a static charge is used, it should be premixed with 2-3% of one of the inorganic components that does not build up a static charge. For example, sulfur carries a static charge, and in the ordinary Black Powder composition it is mixed with 2-3% potassium nitrate before it is incorporated into the main mixture. The presence of an inorganic salt facilitates the draining of the static charge. The preparation of such test lots should always be done by remote control, and personnel should not be allowed in the room while the mixer is in operation. Pressing operations must be conducted on a barricaded and grounded press, usually in a steel mold with a steel plunger using bronze plates between the plunger surfaces, for which non-sparking stainless steel is preferred. The side of the mold and the sides of the bronze plates should be cleaned before each pressing. Igniter powders should be screened in a well-ventilated area equipped with an explosion proof suction fan. Due to the flammability and explovive nature of the fine dust from igniter powders, no electric motors, hot plates or other electrical equipment should be operated near the powder being screened. For drying operations, steam heat is preferred over elecric ovens.

In summary, the following are the important points concerning safety in the prepartion of igniter powders:

1) Do not use metallic mixing tools 2) If foreign material is observed in the compostition before or during mixing, the batch should be destroyed by wetting with appropriate sovents, for even if large contaminants can be removed, one must always assume that the mix also contains finer particles that cannot be seen 3) compositions should not be mixed dry 4) Igniter powders should not be ground. When crushing of the powders is required, use a wooden or conductive pestle. Work with minimum quantities 5) screw cap or glass stoppered bottles should not be used 6) Precautions to avoid the build-up of static charges should be strictly observed.

Primary Explosive Compositions Primary explosives are the most sensitive of all chemical components in military ammo and hence the most hazardous to handle. Furthermore, single component primary explosives are frequently too hazardous to handle and mixtures are often used. Before the components of such a mixture are blended, the sensitivity, stability and compatibility must be tested. Reactivity increases with decreased particle size and increasing intimacy of contact. Because primary explosives are so sensitive, not more than 0.5 g should be prepared initially. If an compound forms a filter cake when being filtered, the cake should be broken up gently by means of a rubber policeman or wooden spatula with proper precautions in the form of shield and gloves. Filter cakes which cannot be broken up in this manner should be dissolved, recrystalized or reprecipitated to obtain a solid of more tractable form. Sensitive materials should be sieved wet. For all poerations, conductive rubber is the preferred material for confinement, followed by stainless steel, while glassware and porcelain should be avoided. In preparing the mixtures, the fuels and inert materials should be blended first, after which the oxidizer can be added. Initiating agents are added last, with the usual precautions followed: grounded personnel, relative humidity above 60%, and use of barricaded, remote controlled equipment. The high sensitivity of primary explosives must be kept in equipment. The high sensitivity of of primary explosives must be kept in mind when they are being transported. Small samples, of less than 1 g, should be packaged in "non-propogating" containers. These are so made that if one sample explodes, the shock will not initiate the others. Wet samples may be transported in larger quantities. Spontaneous detonations of primers had be reported, although the mechanism has not been established convincingly.

Pyrotechnical Compositions Pyrotechnic compostions are normally mixtures of finely powdered materials which, when ignited, will react and evolve a considerable amount of light, heat and smoke. Various organic binders and color intensifiers may be included in the mixtures. The heat of reaction of a pyrotechnic mixture may vary for 0.8 to 1 KJ/gm and temperatures of 1000 to 3500 deg C may result. More fatalities are experienced because of the effects of heat and flames than because of shock overpressure. Pyrotechnic compositions vary widely with respect to their sensitivity to impact, static discharge and friction. The main constituents in these compositions are:

1)oxidizing agents such as chlorates, perchlorates, peroxides, nitrates, oxides and chromates . 2) fuels such as powdered metals, silicon, sulfur and boron. 3) organic binders and color intensifiers.

Mixtures containing one or more of the above substances and an oxidizing agent form pyrotechnic compositions which are likely to be sensitive to impact and friction. Decreasing particle size of the fuel and addition of sulfur or red phosphorus generally increase sensitivity. Safety concerns of certain metallic ingredients were discussed under Material Handling Hazards.

The Handling Of Nitroglycerin

The manufacture of introglycerin (NG) and of other nitrate esters has been described elsewhere ..... (but not in this article). The principle concern in the handling of NG is the control of temp and PH. Spilled or contaminated material which is not suitable for use is absorbed in sawdust or Fuller's Earth, and burned in a remote facility. The hazardous material must remain segregated from other trash and handled only by trained personnel.

Biophysical Effects

Until WWII the primary interest in military explosves was in their function as fragment generators., whereas the lethal effects from blast waves were of lesser importance and which were not understood in a quantitative and theoretical sense. As the ability to deliver larger quantities of explosives improved, so did the ability to damage structures and personnel from blast overpressure. Overpressure effects on structures were examined in connection with the constructionof barriers and in the compilation of quantity-distance tables earlier in this article. (Not include by me). With respect to the biophysical effects, primary blast pathology is seen in the pulmonary system. This is very much due to the violent implosion of the body wall along with the internal pressure variations which follow the initial shock front. The high mortality amoung initial survivors is a measure of the lack of effective therapy for the injured. Indirect blast effects include the injuries caused by the impact of projectiles and fragments and by the consequences of whole body displacement, and the contact with thermal radiation and the ingestion of toxic materials. The biomedical criteria for the primary blast effects on humans are presented in Figure 3. The problem of calculating the magnitudes of the blast overpressures for various types of explosives as a function of their quantity and the distance from the source as well as the initial fragment velocities, has been presented with the assistance of nomograms and the tabulation of explosives characteristics (See J.Petes,"Blast and Fragmentation Characteristics" pp 283-316 in E.Cohen, Ed,"Prevention of and Protection Against Accidental Explosion of Munitions and Fuels and Other Hazardous Mixtures", Annals of the New York Academy of Science, 152, (Oct 1968).

OD MO/LD MO/LT


MO indicates Maximum Overpressure MPa

2 0.8 1.2 OD indicates Overpressure Duration in millisends 3 0.7 1.05 LD indicates that lung damage occurs 4 0.6 1 LT indicated 50% lethality 6 0.4 0.75 10 0.35 0.6 20 0.3 0.5 30 0.27 0.45 200 0.25 0.4

Safety Hazards Of Solid Propellants

One of the major problems associated with advanced solid propellants is their susceptibility to detonation. Motores containing such propellants must be necessarily be considered to be high explosive devices and as such they must be treated with attendant restrictions in handling, storage and transportation. Internal shear failure, shear failure at the propellant/casing interface, and tensile microfracturing due to frangibility are evidence of a potential problem. This increase in internal surface may be gradual, as due to age induced partial decomposition, or sudden as due to pressurization on ignition. Of particular concern is the presence of weakly bonded oxidizer particles such as HMX or ammonium perchlorate which act as crack starters under tensile stress. These cracks nucleate by debonding. When the propellant is suddenly stressed, these cracks are believed to grow at size dependent velocities until they coalesce to form fragments. During this process the internal surface to volume ratio increases abruptly. For instance, a recent study showed that a highly loaded modified composite propellant tensile stressed at a few hundred MPa with a duration of 1 usec produced about 2000m^2 of new surface per cubic meter of propellant. If these findings are correct, then the oxidizer particle size and the solids loading fraction are a measure of the size and the concentration of microcracks. Consequently much effort has been devoted to the development of new techniques for the study of microporosity. Earlier studied depended on X-ray examination, a method which does not flag a potential problem until cracks have grown to macroscopic size. More recently, ultrasonic damage measurements have been performed in uniaxial compression and shear tests. A quantitative model has been developed which has shown that estimates of the size of the vacuoles arising from the dewetting of simulated composite propellants are in excellent agreement with independent microscopic evidence. Time dependent void growth at constant strain has also been observed by ultrasonic techniques. In addition to the above microcracking phenomena, the avoidance of brittleness is a major concern in the formulation of propellants. Brittleness and frangibility is enhanced by high solids loading and by low temperature. At one time, it was believed that detonability was determined by burning rate. It must be understood clearly that high order detonation is a bulk phenomenon and is not governedby the classic propellant burning theories. The tendency to detonate is a characteristic intrinsic with each formulation which must be studied in shock environments as it is found in a card gap or flyer plate test or Susan and Wenograd tests. Likewise, density is not a useful measure of the detonability of a propellant except perhaps to the extent that low density formulations may be porous. A more valid measure of the safe-life of propellants is the depletion with time of stabilizers such as the nitroamines which are found in double base propellants or the loss of the plasticizer. Such determinations can now be performed routinely in a quantitative fashion by means of liquid chromatography.

Casings

Many high exlosives and all low explosives work best when properly confined. Most commercial fireworks have paper casings. One can roll black cat type firecrackers much like one would roll a cigerette joint. More substantial casings can be made by rolling paper around a dowel rod and gluing. Ends can be folded over and glued or plugged. Some people sell good paper casings. Expended model rocket engine casings work well. If a hole needs to be inserted for the fuse this should be done before adding the explosive. Fiber tape is safe and effective for re-enforcing casings. This tape is really strong in only one direction, so the casing should be wrapped twice so that the fibres cross. Cloth or plastic tape can help, too, but fiber tape is best. The charge should completely fill the casing. Most explosives work better when densely packed. The principle is to get the particles of explosive as close together as possible, so the whole charge will ignite as instantly as possible. The theoretically perfect casing is a sphere in which th charge is ignited at the center. Putting the fuse in the middle of a long casing, instead of at the end, can decrease burning time by 50%. In general, a stronger casing means a more pwoerful blast. The best casing is a steel pip with screwed on end caps. An expended carbon dioxide cartridge also makes a good casing. While paper casings are pretty safe, metal ones are prone to throw shrapnel. Any bomb with a metal casing should be respected as equivalent to a hand granade. Wrapping a small bomb in several layers of cloth will help to stop shrapnel. Metal can throw sparks, so pack it with a wooden rod. Other casings can be made from root beer extract bottles, olive jars, match cases, and stoneware clay. All of these casings worked with varying efficiency, and they all have the potential of throwing shrapnel. The clay casings contained about five grams of waxless Berge's Blasting powder. Pieces of clay became embedded in boards 5 feet away when it was tested.

Detonators

Many high explosives such as dynamite and TNT are insensitive enough as to require initiation by another explosive if they are to detonate properly. These explosives are detonated by blasting caps in all blasting operations. Blasting caps consist of a metal tube containing a sensitive high explosive like lead azide, tetryl, PETN, of lead styphnate, and either a fuse or electric firing device. The cap is inserted in the charge to be fired and detonated electically or with the fuse crimped into the end of the cap. Like any other explosive, blasting caps should be kept cool, and dry, and they should no be stored with other explosives. Electric caps are especially dangerous. When they are used in the ground they can be set off by stray electric currents from underground electric equipment or lousy insulation. The waves from nerby radio transmitters may set them off. Some blasting agents, like ammonium nitrate, are so difficult to detonate that they require a larger detonator than a blasting cap. They may be set off by a stick of dynamite which is in turn detonated by a blasting cap. The effeciency of many low explosives can be enhanced by using a booster charge similar to a detonator. A charge of some explosive like Berge's blasting powder can be set off very effectively by putting a small bomb, in the center. The fuse to the booster must be wrapped in several layers of tape, or similar, to prevent the main charge from going off first. This will result in a more instantaneous, more shattering, and louder explosion.

Electrical Detonators

It is neither difficult or infrequent for an individual to accumulate 10 milljoule or more of electrostatic energy on his person. This is considerably above the threshold for intitiation of a sensitive detonator. It is essential, therefore, to follow the safety procedures outlned below. If electric detononators are obtained without a device for shorting the metal case to the lead wires, they are to be removed from their containers and immediately wrapped with aluminum foil. Personnel, equipment and the detonator itself must be grounded during the handling of items whose lead wires are not shorted to each other or the metal case. Most commercial blasting is done electrically. An electric blasting cap contains a high resistance wire which heats and fires a sensitive explosive when current passes through it. This current is supplied by a hand generator or a battery. Model rocket manufacturers insist that the only safe way to set off model rocket engines is electically. Electric ignition is rather effective if it's done right. Instead of fuse, an uninsulated high resistance wire is placed inside the charge. This wire should be pretty short; a centimeter at the most. Highly conductive wires (like copper) should lead from the ends of this heating wire to the outside of the charge. You will need a minimum of six volts to fire this device. A car battery is good. If you want to be sure there is no power deficiency, you can plug it directly into an AC outlet, but one is usually not available. The wire iteslf explodes with a shower of sparks. Disconnect the system immediately after the blast to avoid blowing fuses or burning out wires. You can use electric ignition to set off several charges simultaneously. Connect them in parallel not in series. Remember, more charges means a need more current. You can get high resistance wires made of nicrome or some similar metal from old toasters, wire resisters, etc. Model rocket companies sell nichrome igniters.

Flares

Flares come in two basic kinds; illuminating and signalling. Signalling flares use some fuel as aluminum, magnesium, sugar, charcoal, or sulfur mixed with an oxygen provider like a nitrate or chlorate. A coloring agent can be added, or the oxidant can give color. A sodium compound gives yellow light, barium gives green, strontium gives red, and arsenic gives blue. Zinc dust gives a green light. Illuminating flares almost always use magnesium or aluminum. A 1: 1 mixture of aluminum dust with potassium nitrate makes a good bright flare, as well as being a decent flash powder. The composition can be stuck together and desensitised with soft wax, glycerine, oil, or anything that will stick. After was or any other desensitising binder is added, these compositions are hard to ignite, so igniting composition like gunpowder is needed.

Flash Powder

The essential ingrdient of flash powder is aluminum or magnesium dust, which burns very hot and bright. One part magnesium or aluminum mixed with one to two parts oxidizing agent such as potassium nitrate or potassium perchlorate makes good flash powder. The purpose of flash powder is to create a brilliant burst of light. It can also work as an explosive, so care must be taken. A trick used by many special effects crew to create a flash on stage is to remove the glass from the top of an electric fuse and fill the cavity with flash powder. The fuse is screwed into a socket, and when the socket is turned on the fuse blows and ignites the powder to create a bright and harmless flash.

Gasses

One can make rather impressive explosions with gasses. If you have an acetylene welding rig try this. Fill one balloon with oxygen, one with acetylene, and one with both gasses. Then touch a flame to each one. You should get a pop, a firery poof, and a BANG, respectively. Bombs can be made with containers (balloons, coffee cans, and the like) full of any flammable gas and air or oxygen. They are, naturally, bulky for their power and impractical for anything but non-pragmatic experiments. One method is to put calcium carbide in a metal can with a recloseable top. When you spit on the carbide it releases acetylene gas. You put the lid on and hold a match next to the holw which you have previously punched in the side of the can. This can result in a very satisfying bang. It can also conceivably result in flying pieces of tin can and body damage. Hydrogen is another very reactive gas. Hydrogen can be aquired by placing sulfuric acid on iron or steel, or hydrochloric acid on zinc or magnesium. It can also be created by placing sodium hydroxide solution on aluminum. Hydrogen is lighter than air, and it makes balloons float. Acetylene and natural gas float, too, but not as well.

Pyrotechnic Cement

This cement can be used where a fireproof adhesive or putty type mixture is required. Mix equal parts of calcium carbonate and zinc oxide. Thes can be stored indefinately after mixing. Then add sodium silicate soultion (water glass, obtainable in a few drug stores). This should be the concentrated syrup like consistency, not the watery kind used as a label adhesive. The consistency of the cement depends on how much sodium silicate is added. After this is added it will clump up and harden, it should be used soon. It is possible to water it down to make it runny, and it will come off if it is soaked in water.

Recrystallization

This technique is used to purify chemicals. The chemical is dissolved in a minimum amount of hot solvent. Then the solution is cooled and the chemical crystalizes out of solution. When it is filtered much of the impurities will stay in the solvent and be disposed of.

Smoke Bombs

There are many ways to make smoke bombs. A simple bunch of matches rolled up in a wad of paper can be effective. Flare mixture makes a reliable smoke bomb. A very potent smoke bomb can be made with carbon tetrachloride and zinc dust. Here is one formula: Carbon tetrachloride 40%


Zinc dust 40%

Potassium chlorate 20%

This has been found to be a rather unstable method. A similar formula is: Carbon tetrachloride 45%


Zinc Oxide 45%

Aluminum 10%

The reason these mixtures work so well is that ther form zinc chloride particles. These particles suck up water from the air to become larger and more opaque. Phosphorus is used in smoke bombs. It produces a white cloud of hygroscopic phosphorus pentoxide. Phosphorus is dangerous and expensive. It is easy to produce a cloud of harmless smoke by heating ammonium chloride over a flame. Ammonium chloride won't burn, but it decomposes easily when heated.

Spontaneous Combustion

Spontaneous combustion is well worth knowing about. A knowledge of spontaneous combustion can also prevent the experimental mixing of the wrong chemicals.

1. A few drops of glycerine placed onto a pile of potassium permanganate will burst into flames in a few seconds. 2. Lithium, sodium, and potassium will react violently with water to form a hydroxide and hydrogen gas. If the sodium is held in one place on the water, or if the piece is big enough, the hydrogen will ignite or explode. Potassium is more violent than sodium and invariably explodes on contact with water. These metals all float.

3. Sulfur 20% Zinc dust 40% Ammonium nitrate 20% Ammonium chloride 20%

This mixture will emit ammonia gas and catch fire when water is added. Bear in mind that ammonium nitrate is a deliquescent compound; that is, it sucks up water from the air. Therefore this mixture will go off if it is left uncapped on a humid day.

4. An Equal weight of aluminum dust and iodine crystals will ignite when water is added. 5. White phosphorous catches fire when it is exposed to warm air. Phosphorus can be dissolved in a small bottle of carbon disulfide. When the bottle is broken the carbon disulfide evaporates and the phosphorus ignites it. 6. Pyrophoric lead is a finely divided lead powder which ignites spontaneously in air, when it works. When it doesn't work it just sits there. It is made by decomposing lead tartrate by heating it in a test tube. Lead tartrate can be made by mixing solutions of lead acetate and tartaric acid. The precipitated lead tartrate can be filtered out and dried. 7. A mixture of potassium chlorate and a fuel such as sugar will ignite on contact with concentrated sulfuric acid.

Thermit

Thermit is a mixture of aluminum and iron oxide powder used in welding and incendiary devices. It is about: Iron Oxide 75%


Aluminum 25%

It burns with intense heat, leaving a mass of molten iron and aluminum oxide slag. A thermit bomb will burn through or melt just about anything. I heard of a bunch of vandalous fraternity members whom once set thermit bombs under the wheels of a trolly car, thereby welding it to the tracks. Thermit is hard to ignite and requires a hot igniting charge. I have found that the following mixture makes a fast burning fake thermite that is pretty easy to ignite:

Manganese dioxide 66.7%


Aluminum 33.3%

Magnesium or aluminum powder can react spontaneously with wet manganese dioxide, so a combination therefore, should not be stored. A nitrate is much safer as an oxidant.

Vacuum Distillation

A vacuum distillation apparatus is the essential apparatus for making pure nitric of perchloric acid. It is not hard to set up or use. With a hand vacuum pump from Edmund, Educational Modules, or some other company you can pull a sufficient vacuum to make pure nitric acid. A better pump is necessary to make the most concentrated fuming acid. Just create as much vacuum as possible with your pump, then start boiling. An all glass thermometer is preferable; especially when boiling acid. Very volatile liquids can be boiled this way at room temperature. This is safer for flammable chemicals then boiling them at atmospheric pressure.

Washing

Chemicals can be washed by dumping them into the washing liquid, usually water, and mixing them up. Then a solid can be filtered out or a liquid can be poured off after the liquid phases seperate. A solid can be left in filter paper in a funnel and washed by pouring water through the filter paper and chemical. Distilled water is preferable to tap water for synthesis and washing. Rain is a cheap source of fine distilled water.

Making Plastic Explosives from Bleach

Potassium chlorate is an extremely volatile explosive compound, and has been used in the past as the main explosive filler in grenades, land mines, and mortar rounds by such countries as France and Germany. Common household bleach contains a small amount of potassium chlorate, which can be extracted by the procedure that follows.

Firstly, you must obtain:

[1] A heat source (hot plate, stove, etc.) [2] A hydrometer, or battery hydrometer [3] A large Pyrex, or enameled steel container (to weigh chemicals) [4] Potassium chloride (sold as a salt substitute at health and nutrition stores)

Take one gallon of bleach, place it in the container, and begin heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 grams of potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated. Constantly check the solution being heated with the hydrometer, and boil until you get a reading of 1.3. If using a battery hydrometer, boil until you read a FULL charge. Take the solution and allow it to cool in a refrigerator until it is between room temperature and 0 degrees Celcius. Filter out the crystals that have formed and save them. Boil this solution again and cool as before. Filter and save the crystals. Take the crystals that have been saved, and mix them with distilled water in the following proportions: 56 grams per 100 milliliters distilled water. Heat this solution until it boils and allow to cool. Filter the solution and save the crystals that form upon cooling. This process of purification is called "fractional crystalization". These crystals should be relatively pure potassium chlorate. Powder these to the consistency of face powder, and heat gently to drive off all moisture. Now, melt five parts Vaseline with five parts wax. Dissolve this in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on 90 parts potassium chlorate (the powdered crystals from above) into a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until intimately mixed. Allow all gasoline to evaporate. Finally, place this explosive into a cool, dry place. Avoid friction, sulfur, sulfides, and phosphorous compounds. This explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density of 1.3 grams in a cube and dipped in wax until water proof. These block type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity. Also, a blasting cap of at least a 3 grade must be used.

The presence of the afore mentioned compounds (sulfur, sulfides, etc.) results in mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive and will possibly decompose explosively while in storage. You should never store homemade explosives, and you must use EXTREME caution at all times while performing the processes in this article.

Generic Bomb

The generic bomb can be easily assembled at short notice and has approximately the power of half a stick of dynamite. Firstly, obtain the following:

1. Glass container 2. Gasoline/petrol 3. Potassium permanganate (available from snake bite kits)

Place a few drops of gasoline/petrol into the glass container, and replace the cap. Now turn the container around to coat the inner surfaces until the gas appears to have evaporated. Add a few drops of the potassium permanganate. The bomb is detonated by throwing against a solid object

Landmines

Firstly, you will need to aquire a pushbutton switch. Take the wires of it and connect one to a nine volt battery connector and the other to a solar igniter (used for launching model rockets). A very thin piece of fuse wire will also surfice. However, the igniter is recommended. Connect the other wire of the nine-volt battery to one end of the switch. Connect a wire from the switch to the other lead on the solar igniter.


switch-----------battery

\ /


\ /

\ /


solar igniter

|


explosive

Now connect the explosive to the igniter by attaching the fuse to the igniter (seal it with scotch tape). Now dig a hole; not too deep but enough to cover all of the materials. Think about what direction your enemy will be coming from and plant the switch, but leave the button visible (not too visible!). Plant the explosive about 3-5 feet away from the switch because there will be a delay in the explosion that depends on how short your wick is, and, if a homemade wick is being used, its burning speed. If it is construyed right, it will ahve the desired effect.

Remember: In a military situation a land mine is not used to kill. Rather, it is used to disable part of the platoon. The reasoning behind this is that - You can kill one man. OR You can disable one man, by removing his legs, and also disable two of the other group members as they will be required to transport the injured party.

Napalm

Napalm was used very frequently in the Vietnamese war by the Americans. It has a thick paste like consistency which produces a long lasting flame. Napalm is often used to attack buildings and vehicles. If it comes into contact with skin, or flesh, itis extremely difficult to remove and on most occasions must be left to burn out, removing flesh as it does so. Napalm is constructed in the following way:

1) Pour some gasolinepetrol into an old bowl, or some kind of container. 2) Take some styrofoam and put it in the gasoline/petrol, until the gas/petrol will not absorb anymore and becomes saturated. This should produce a sticky syrup. 3) Put it on the end of something and light.

The unused napalm lasts a long time!

Alternatively, napalm can be made in the following method:

1) Take one part gasoline and one part soap. The soap is either soap flakes or shredded bar soap. Do not use detergents. 2)The gasoline must be heated in order for the soap to melt. The best way is with a double boiler where the top part has at least a two-quart capicity. The water in the bottom part is brought to a boil and the double boiler is taken from the stove and carried to where there is no flame. 3)Then one part, by volume, of gasoline is put in the top part and allowed to heat as much as it will and the soap is added and the mess is stirred until it thickens. A better way to heat gasoline is to fill a bathtub with water as hot as you can get it. It will hold its heat longer and permit a much larger container than will the double boiler.

Ignition Devices

There are many ways to ignite explosive devices. There is the classic "light the fuse, throw the bomb, and run" approach, and there are sensitive mercury switches, and many things in between. Generally, electrical detonation systems are safer than fuses, but there are times when fuses are more appropriate than electrical systems; it is difficult to carry an electrical detonation system into a stadium, for instance, without being observed. A device with a fuse or impact detonating fuze would be easier to hide.

Fuse Ignition

The oldest form of explosive ignition, fuses are perhaps the favorite type of simple ignition system. By simply placing a piece of waterproof fuse in a device, one can have almost guaranteed ignition. Modern waterproof fuse is extremely reliable, burning at a rate of about 2.5 seconds to the inch. It is available as model rocketry fuse in most hobby shops, and costs about $3.00 for a nine-foot length. Cannon Fuse is a popular ignition system for pipe bombers because of its simplicity. All that need be done is light it with a match or lighter. Of course, if the Army had fuses like this, then the grenade, which uses fuse ignition, would be very impracticle. If a grenade ignition system can be acquired, by all means, it is the most effective. But, since such things do not just float around, the next best thing is to prepare a fuse system which does not require the use of a match or lighter, but still retains its simplicity. One such method is described below:

MATERIALS _________ strike-on-cover type matches electrical tape or duct tape waterproof fuse

) To determine the burn rate of a particular type of fuse, simply measure a 6 inch or longer piece of fuse and ignite it. With a stopwatch, press the start button the at the instant when the fuse lights, and stop the watch when the fuse reaches its end. Divide the time of burn by the length of fuse, and you have the burn rate of the fuse, in seconds per inch. This will be shown below:

Suppose an eight inch piece of fuse is burned, and its complete time of combustion is 20 seconds.

20 seconds / 8 inches = 2.5 seconds per inch.

If a delay of 10 seconds was desired with this fuse, divide the desired time by the number of seconds per inch:

10 seconds / 2.5 seconds per inch = 4 inches

NOTE: THE LENGTH OF FUSE HERE MEANS LENGTH OF FUSE TO THE POWDER. SOME FUSE, AT LEAST AN INCH, SHOULD BE INSIDE THE DEVICE. ALWAYS ADD THIS EXTRA INCH, AND PUT THIS EXTRA INCH AN INCH INTO THE DEVICE!!!

2) After deciding how long a delay is desired before the explosive device is to go off, add about 1/2 an inch to the premeasured amount of fuse, and cut it off. 3) Carefully remove the cardboard matches from the paper match case. Do not pull off individual matches; keep all the matches attached to the cardboard base. Take one of the cardboard match sections, and leave the other one to make a second igniter. 4) Wrap the matches around the end of the fuse, with the heads of the matches touching the very end of the fuse. Tape them there securely, making sure not to put tape over the match heads. Make sure they are very secure by pulling on them at the base of the assembly. They should not be able to move. 5) Wrap the cover of the matches around the matches attached to the fuse, making sure that the striker paper is below the match heads and the striker faces the match heads. Tape the paper so that is fairly tight around the matches. Do not tape the cover of the striker to the fuse or to the matches. Leave enough of the match book to pull on for ignition.


_____________________

\ /


\ / ------ match book cover

\ /


| M|f|M----------|------- match head

| A|u|A |


| T|s|T |

| C|e|C |


| tapeH|. |Htape |

| |f | |


|####### |u| #######|-------- striking paper

|####### |s| #######|


\ |e| /

\ |.| /


\ |f| /

\ |u| /


|tape |s|tape|

|tape |e|tape|


| . |

| f |


| u |

| s |


| e |

| . |


|___|

The match book is wrapped around the matches, and is taped to itself. The matches are taped to the fuse. The striker will rub against the matcheads when the match book is pulled.

6) When ready to use, simply pull on the match paper. It should pull the striking paper across the match heads with enough friction to light them. In turn, the burning matcheads will light the fuse, since it adjacent to the burning match heads.

Blackmatch Fuses

Take a flat piece of plastic or metal (brass or aluminum are easy to work with and won't rust). Drill a 1/16th inch hole through it. This is your die for sizing the fuse. You can make fuses as big as you want, but this is the right size for the pipe bomb I will be getting to later. To about 1/2 cup of black powder add water to make a thin paste. Add 1/2 teaspoon of corn starch. Cut some one foot lengths of cotton thread. Use cotton, not silk or thread made from synthetic fibers. Put these together until you have a thickness that fills the hole in the die but can be drawn through very easily. Tie your bundle of threads together at one end. Separate the threads and hold the bundle over the black powder mixture. Lower the threads with a circular motion so they start curling onto the mixture. Press them under with the back of a teaspoon and continue lowering them so they coil into the paste. Take the end you are holding and thread it through the die. Pull it through smoothly in one long motion. To dry your fuse, lay it on a piece of aluminum foil and bake it in your 250 degree oven or tie it to a grill in the oven and let it hang down. The fuse must be baked to make it stiff enough for the uses it will be put to later. Air drying will not do the job. If you used Sodium Nitrate, it will not even dry completely at room temperatures. Cut the dry fuse with sissors into 2 inch lengths and store in an air tight container. Handle this fuse carefuly to avoid breaking it. You can also use a firecracker fuse if you have any available. The fuses can usually be pulled out without breaking. To give yourself some running time, you will be extending these fuses (blackmatch or firecracker fuse) with sulfured wick.

Finally, it is possible to make a relatively slow-burning fuse in the home. By dissolving about one teaspoon of black powder in about 1/4 a cup of boiling water, and, while it is still hot, soaking in it a long piece of all cotton string, a slow-burning fuse can be made. After the soaked string dries, it must then be tied to the fuse of an explosive device. Sometimes, the end of the slow burning fuse that meets the normal fuse has a charge of black powder or gunpowder at the intersection point to insure ignition, since the slow-burning fuse does not burn at a very high temperature. A similar type of slow fuse can be made by taking the above mixture of boiling water and black powder and pouring it on a long piece of toilet paper. The wet toilet paper is then gently twisted up so that it resembles a firecracker fuse, and is allowed to dry.

Sulfured Wick

Use heavy cotton string about 1/8th inch in diameter. You can find some at a garden supply for tieing up your tomatoes. Be sure it's cotton. You can test it by lighting one end. It sould continue to burn after the match is removed and when blown out will have a smoldering coal on the end. Put some sulfur in a small container like a small pie pan and melt it in the oven at 250 degrees. It will melt into a transparent yellow liquid. If it starts turning brown, it is too hot. Coil about a one foot length of string into it. The melted sulfur will soak in quickly. When saturated, pull it out and tie it up to cool and harden. It can be cut to desired lengths with sissors. 2 inches is about right. These wicks will burn slowly with a blue flame and do not blow out easily in a moderate wind. They will not burn through a hole in a metal pipe, but are great for extending your other fuse. They will not throw off sparks. Blackmatch generates sparks which can ignite it along its length causing unpredictable burning times.

Impact Ignition

Impact ignition is an excellent method of ignition for spontaneous terrorist activities. The problem with an impact-detonating device is that it must be kept in a very safe container so that it will not explode while being transported to the place where it is to be used. This can be done by having a removable impact initiator. The best and most reliable impact initiator is one that uses factory made initiators or primers. A no. 11 cap for black powder firearms is one such primer. They usually come in boxes of 100, and cost about $2.50. To use such a cap, however, one needs a nipple that it will fit on. Black powder nipples are also available in gun stores. All that a person has to do is ask for a package of nipples and the caps that fit them. Nipples have a hole that goes all the way through them, and they have a threaded end, and an end to put the cap on. A cutaway of a nipple is shown below:


__________________

| |


_ | |

| | |/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\|


__________| |/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/ |

| _____________|


| |

no. 11 |_______| percussion _______ ------- threads for screwing cap : here |_____________ nipple onto bomb


|______ |

| |\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/|


| _| |/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/ |

| |


|___________________|

When making using this type of initiator, a hole must be drilled into whatever container is used to make the bomb out of. The nipple is then screwed into the hole so that it fits tightly. Then, the cap can be carried and placed on the bomb when it is to be thrown. The cap should be bent a small amount before it is placed on the nipple, to make sure that it stays in place. The only other problem involved with an impact detonating bomb is that it must strike a hard surface on the nipple to set it off. By attaching fins or a small parachute on the end of the bomb opposite the primer, the bomb, when thrown, should strike the ground on the primer, and explode. Of course, a bomb with mercury fulminate in each end will go off on impact regardless of which end it strikes on, but mercury fulminate is also likely to go off if the person carrying the bomb is bumped hard.

Magicube Igniter

A VERY SENSITIVE and reliable impact iniator can be produced from the common MAGICUBE ($2.40 for 12) type flashbulbs. Simply crack the plastic cover off, remove the reflector, and you will see 4 bulbs, each of which has a small metal rod holding it in place. CAREFULLY grasp this rod with a pair of needle-nose pliers, and pry gently upwards, making sure that NO FORCE IS APPLIED TO THE GLASS BULB. Each bulb is coated with plastic, which must be removed for them to be effective in our application. This coating can be removed by soaking the bulbs in a small glass of acetone for 30-45 minutes, at which point the plastic can be easily peeled away. The best method to use these is to dissolve some nitrocellulose based smokeless powder in acetone and/or ether, forming a thich glue-like paste. Coat the end of the fuse with this paste, then stick the bulb (with the metal rod facing out) into the paste. About half the bulb should be completely covered, and if a VERY THIN layer of nitrocellulose is coated over the remainder then ignition should be very reliable. To insure that the device lands with the bulb down, a small streamer can be attached to the opposite side, so when it is tossed high into the air the appropriate end will hit the ground first.

Electrical Ignition

Electrical ignition systems for detonation are usually the safest and most reliable form of ignition. Electrical systems are ideal for demolition work, if one doesn't have to worry so much about being caught. With two spools of 500 ft of wire and a car battery, one can detonate explosives from a "safe", comfortable distance, and be sure that there is nobody around that could get hurt. With an electrical system, one can control exactly what time a device will explode, within fractions of a second. Detonation can be aborted in less than a second's warning, if a person suddenly walks by the detonation sight, or if a police car chooses to roll by at the time. The two best electrical igniters are military squibs and mode 1 rocketry igniters. Blasting caps for construction also work well. Model rocketry igniters are sold in packages of six, and cost about $1.00 per pack. All that need be done to use them is connect it to two wires and run a current through them. Military squibs are difficult to get, but they are a little bit better, since they explode when a current is run through them, whereas rocketry igniters only burst into flame. Most squibs will NOT detonate KClO3/petroleum jelly or RDX. This requires a blasting cap type detonation in most cases. There are, however, military explosive squibs which will do the job. Igniters can be used to set off black powder, mercury fulminate, or guncotton, which in turn, can set of a high order explosive.

An Electric Fuze

Take a flashlight bulb and place it glass tip down on a file. Grind it down on the file until there is a hole in the end. Solder one wire to the case of the bulb and another to the center conductor at the end. Fill the bulb with black powder or powdered match head. One or two flashlight batteries will heat the filament in the bulb causing the powder to ignite.

Alternative Electric Fuze

Take a medium grade of steel wool and pull a strand out of it. Attach it to the ends of two pieces of copper wire by wrapping it around a few turns and then pinch on a small piece of solder to bind the strand to the wire. You want about 1/2 inch of steel strand between the wires. Number 18 or 20 is a good size wire to use. Cut a 1/2 by 1 inch piece of cardboard of the type used in match covers. Place a small pile of powdered match head in the center and press it flat. place the wires so the steel strand is on top of and in contact with the powder. Sprinkle on more powder to cover the strand. The strand should be surounded with powder and not touching anything else except the wires at its ends. Place a piece of blackmatch in contact with the powder. Now put a piece of masking tape on top of the lot, and fold it under on the two ends. Press it down so it sticks all around the powder. The wires are sticking out on one side and the blackmatch on the other. A single flashlight battery will set this off.

Electro-Mechanical Ignition

Electro-mechanical ignition systems are systems that use some type of mechanical switch to set off an explosive charge electrically. This type of switch is typically used in booby traps or other devices in which the person who places the bomb does not wish to be anywhere near the device when it explodes. Several types of electro-mechanical detonators will be discussed

Mercury Switches

Mercury switches are a switch that uses the fact that mercury metal conducts electricity, as do all metals, but mercury metal is a liquid at room temperatures. A typical mercury switch is a sealed glass tube with two electrodes and a bead of mercury metal. It is sealed because of mercury's nasty habit of giving off brain-damaging vapors. The diagram below may help to explain a mercury switch.


______________

A / \ B __wire +_____/___________ \


\ ( Hg ) | /

\ _(_Hg___) |____/


|

|


wire - |

|


|

When the drop of mercury ("Hg" is mercury's atomic symbol) touches both contacts, current flows through the switch. If this particular switch was in its present position, A---B, current would be flowing, since the mercury can touch both contacts in the horizontal position. If, however, it was in the | position, the drop of mercury would only touch the + contact on the A side. Current, then couldn't flow, since mercury does not reach both contacts when the switch is in the vertical position. This type of switch is ideal to place by a door. If it were placed in the path of a swinging door in the verticle position, the motion of the door would knock the switch down, if it was held to the ground by a piece if tape. This would tilt the switch into the verticle position, causing the mercury to touch both co