Breaking a Master Lock
by Richard Rastetter
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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
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A couple of weeks ago I wanted to open a Masterlock. After reading those long articles on how to "crack" the combination, I tried it, and failed. Then I saw the article about drilling into it, that sounds fast, but it requires a drill, and knowledge on where to drill, plus if the lock is on a locker, it is kinda hard to flip the lock around and drill. I came up with my own way (to my knowledge) using a screwdriver, and maybe 2 minutes
Anyway, You need:
1 flathead screwdriver, The longer the better, but the head has to be thin.
Now take the flathead screwdriver, and jam it inbetween the dial, and the metal lock, Pry it down, lifting the dial up.
The dial should be immobile now because it should be bent. Just keep going around the lock prying up, it should pop off after 10 prys
Now with the insides, I am sure there is a better way, but what i did is I took the screwdriver, and stuck it in, and just tore everything I could out of the lock After a minute, I removed enough for the shackle to open.
I tried this on a friend at school, destroyed his lock, took his Ipod and hid it deep in his locker so that he thought someone stole it, and also so someone else doesn't steal it... he was pretty pissed off.
Wednesday, December 19, 2007
Breaking a Master Lock
Text for easy beginning lock picking
Text for easy beginning lock picking
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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
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***************************************
** call The Libary -The Managemnet- **
***************************************
================================
= The Science of Picking Locks =
= by: Eric The Red =
= Tiger's Lair (206)874-4115 =
================================
The advantages of picking or other skilled methods of entry are many: less
noise and hence less chance of discovery, no tell-tale signs that a violation
has even occurred, fewer tools are necessary than with most break and enter
methods, and lastly, but not leastly, it has more class...
With any of the picking methods presented here it is necessary to practice,
practice, practice. Any picking takes some time and lots of skill. Like most
other things in life, it is seldom accomplished as easily as presented on
television.
A good method for effective practice is to obtain a lock that lends itself to
dismantling and remove all but two pins (one long and one short). Follow
techniques given until you have mastered the two pin lock and then try three
pins, then four, etc. Once you have this down pat, replace the two pins with
mushroom pins and start over...
Before picking any lock, squirt a bit of graphite into the locks innards to
help free it from the binding effects of dirt and other contamination.
An overview of the pin tumbler lock:
------------------------------------
The pin tumbler lock is the most widely used lock. It offers medium to high
security and is found in doors, cars, and a host of other applications.
The principle of the pin tumbler is a series of tumblers resembling small
pins (usually 5) held in place by other pins resting on top of them, called
drivers,which are in turn, held in place by springs.
The tumblers, drivers, and springs are mounted in the shell of the lock and
the tumblers extend down in to the core of the lock. When the proper key is
inserted the tumblers are raised to this shear line, or division between them
and the driver pins. This shear line is located at the top of the core. When
this transpires, the core may be turned freely with the key.
If a key is cut too low, the driver pins will extend down into the core; too
high and the tumblers will extend up into the shell of the lock. In either
case, the core is help stationary and the lock stays locked. Pin tumblers
require a high degree of tolerace in lock and key making. About .002 of an
inch is required for correct functioning.
Picks:
------
The most common way to obtain lock "tools" is to have a friendly locksmith
order them for you. As much as I hate to say it, many people "become"
locksmiths themselves and order the goodies on a letterhead. Some suppliers DO
check to see if they are legit, some do not.
If you choose to skip all this worry and make your own pick set simply follow
these easy to remember rules:
Get some clock spring, or even shim stock from an auto supply house. You want
the thin type, sold in strips, not the sheets.
A good range of pick thicknesses is from .025-.035"; too thin will slip the
pins out of alignment, and too think will bind in the keyway. The most useful
pick is probably the curved variety, although straight picks have their uses...
Cut the metal on a grinding wheel, dipping it in water quite often. Take care
not to burn the metal. For the curved variety you want a slight upward curve
in the end of the pick. Do not make a gradual upswing, rather a slight, sudden
upward curve directly at the end of the tool.
The other important tool is the tension tool. This is in every way as important
as the pick(s) and must fit the job or it too will bind.
Tension bars can be constructed from the same clock/spring steel. Bend the tool
into the classic "L" shape near the end. Also make several sizes and thick-
nesses of tension tools.
Picking:
--------
(about time, eh?)
Picking locks requires two intrinsic items: A pick and a tension tool. The pick
is a thin tool cut from spring steel which ends in a slight upward curve, or a
number of other tip shapes ranging from diamonds to balls and squares. The pick
is used to raise each pin to its shear line. The most popular pick is probably
the curved pick, although you should have a variety of alternatives on hand.
There are many sets on the market containing anywhere from 5 to 200 picks and
tension tools in some sort of carrying case.
The tension tool is an "L" shaped (usually double ended) piece of spring steel.
The tension tool is inserted into the core of the lock and turned slightly in
the direction that the lock opens. This tension is maintained throughout the
picking operation (a small lead weight attached the the handle of the tool may
do this job for you and free a hand to hold a flashlight, etc). As the pins are
raised to their shear line the tension you are exerting will prevent them from
falling back down into the core.
Locks that use regular, smooth pins are the easiest to pick, and are the best
to learn with. Modern Yale, Corbin, etc., are usually equipped with special
pins to make picking a more exacting operation. It is quite essential that one
learn to pick on a smooth pinned lock before attempting the challenge of an
anti-pick lock. So...try and choose a cheaper, older lock to begin with.
(Kwikset locks are quite easy.)
Place the end of your tension tool into the keyway in such a fashion that it
does not block your access to the pins. Most locks will take the tension tool
at the bottom of the keyway best; however it makes little difference to the
lock, or for that matter, to me, where you place the tool.
Exert a medium tension on the tool on the direction you suspect the lock turns.
Take your curved pick and insert it into the lock directly under the first pin.
Now, while maintaining the tension, push the pin up into the lock.
While still maintaining the tension, remove the pick. If the pin is picked the
top (or driver) pin will remain up in the lock itself, freeing the shear line.
The bottom pin may fall back down into the core, but if done correctly, the top
pin will wedge against the edge of the core (because you are turning it
slightly with the tension tool) and remain up.
Now move on to the second pin and while maintaining tension (so the first pin
will remain caught) carefully move the second pin up into the lock; of course,
you are being careful not to dislodge the first pin by a clumsy motion. You are
being careful, aren't you?
Good.
Now about this time you may discover that some of the pins slide right back
down without binding as you've come to expect from my clever instructions. You
must realize that some of the pins will be thicker than others (either on
purpose or due to uneven wear factors). This means that the thin(ner) pins will
slide back into the core while the thicker pins remain picked.
To overcome this little problem one simply picks all the thick pins first and
then goes back and attepts the thin ones. As each each pin is picked, the core
turns a bit more and as it turns the thinner pins will bind against the edge.
Soooo....go through the lock, picking all that will, and then go back and work
the more difficult buggers.
It really makes no difference if you pick from front to back or skip around,
choose the method that best matches your personality. An agent should be at
harmony with himself at all times.
As you push a pin up into the lock and it falls down, you must decide if
gravity is the cause or if the pin is being pushed by the spring. If the latter
is the case, it is, of course, not picked.
Fat pins will be harder to push up, but they will stay picked. Thin pins go up
easily and come back down easily. One may have to pick thin pins several times
before success shines its bleary eye on you.
Raking:
-------
Once you have mastered the art of picking you are ready for bigger and better
things. This next method is especially nice if you're in a hurry, or say,
you've picked up this little fox in the local singles bar and you've brought
her along on this big secret mission to impress her.
Now she has this low-cut thing on and you're a bit nervous, right? Maybe you
don't trust your hands too well, so you decide to try the rake.
Rake, I said rake. Get your mind out of the gutter.
Insert the tension tool.Now select your pick (I prefer the rake pick, but the
circle, or even curved, will suffice) and push it into the lock as far as
possible (so it is resting under ALL the pins at one time.)
Now bring the pick up until you feel it start to push up the pins, and then
draw it towards you rapidly, watching to see that it comes in contact with
every pin on the way out.
Always keep your tension on the core, and repeat this maneuver several times in
quick succesion. You may have to adjust the height of the pick as well as the
turning tension as you work. Start with a medium pressure on the tension tool,
then try light, then hard.
If the lock fails to open, then remove and try again.
In raking you are still performing the same function as in individual picking-
i.e. you are raising the pins to the shear line. Of course, you are doing it
faster than you could with each separate pin.
As you rake the tight pins will pick first and then the loose pins as the core
turns ever so little, just as in single picking. With any luck you should be
able to open the lock in 5 or 6 rakes.
This method will open many locks in a matter of seconds.
Stay tuned for more fun spy files from Eric The Red.
================================
= The Science of Opening Safes =
= by Eric The Red =
= Tiger's Lair (206)874-4115 =
================================
Safes:
------
Once the determined agent gains successful entry to the premises, he may find
that some no good son-of-a-bitch has not only placed the necessary target in a
locked and alarmed building, but has also employed a safe to help insure the
virginity of the target materials.
A good agent will be prepared for such an eventuality by being armed with one
or more possible opening methods, and necessary implements.
Success often depends on the degree of security offered, coupled with the age
and make of the safe.
Safes come in a wide variety of sizes and applications. One can encounter wall,
floor, or vault models of varying thickness and offering a wide variety of
resistance to the determined agent.
Most safes have at least one combination mechanism. The combination is
preferred as there are no keys to lose or have copied, and the number of
possible combinations varies from over 1 million to 1 billion, thus making it a
bit time consuming to open one randomly.
The dial is marked with a reference point and a series of numbers. The dial is
connected to the spindle which appears as a skinny metal bar and to the
tumblers (which are connected to the leg bone, leg bone connected....).
The spindle transmits the motion of the dial to the tumblers, which appear as
metal wheels with a cut in one spot. The tumblers are all packed together.
(Do not confuse the tumblers of a safe with the tumblers of a normal lock--they
are entirely different)
When the spindle turns the tumblers, they first all turn together (as each has
a small metal post which hooks the next one). As the dial is stopped at the
first number, that tumbler remains it that position. Then one turns the dial
to the other direction moving all but that tumbler, the next number, and so
on.
When all the correct tumblers are dialed in the slots will be all lined up
directly under the "fence" which falls into the slots allowing the bolt to be
retracted.
Sound Opening:
--------------
Some safes can be opened by sound, much as in the movies, but most that were
manufactured after the mid 60's are not susceptible to the following method:
A high gain amplifier is used. A small, direct-coupled amplifier can be
purchased for about 10 dollars from the various electronic supply houses. A
contact microphone (i.e. one that "hears" vibrations rather than actual sound)
should be employed. BE SURE to use a matching transformer if the impedences do
not match; and in a pinch, a crystal phono cartridge can be employed as a
contact microphone. A stethescope can be used instead of all this, but the
amplifier-microphone combo is much better.
Place the contact mic on the safe, near the dial. Now, turn the dial 5 times to
the left to clear it. Now, turn back towards the right. On the first
revolution, you should hear a distinct click as the cam and lever engage. Read
the number. This will be the opening number, or the last number dialed to open
the safe.
Continue turning to the right. You will hear an additional click during the
next 4 or 5 turns. This indicates how many tumblers you are actually dealing
with. Most safes will have 3, but some will have 4 or 5.
While you are determining the tumber of tumblers, disregard the drop-in click
that occurs at the opening number on each turn.
Our turning the dial to the right 5 turns also performs another duty; it clears
the mechanism. This means that the dial has picked up all the tumblers and is
moving them in rotation with the dial.
After our 5 turns to the right, we move the dial about 10 points BEYOND the
opening number. If the opening number is 15, we would move to 25 and stop. Now
we move back to the exact opening number.
This procedure puts the opening lever and cam in position to open the safe
(although the tumblers are not lined up so it will not open) Now at this point,
you can rock the safe dial back and forth without actually turning it.
This rocking motion causes the lever to click against the tumblers (through
the lever slot). This clicking can be heard by the manipulator in his ear
phones. The whole secret here is the fact that the noise will vary depending
on the number of tumblers the lever is clicking against. (Much like the
difference in hitting 3 notes on a piano at the same time, or just hitting
one.)
Should we have happened to line up one of the tumbles slots under the lever,
the sound will be that of the lever only clicking only two tumblers (as the
lever will fit into the slot of the lined up tumbler, creating no sound).
Each time we time we rock the dial to make the lever-tumbler combination click
we (assuming there was NO difference in sound) move the dial back to the right
where it picks up the tumblers and then we move it about 2 digits past the
last number. Now one moves the dial back to the opening number to realign the
lever-cam slot, and repeats the rocking motion.
When you hear a sound differnce, (indicating that the tumbler slot is lined up)
you turn the dial back to the right until the click indicating the cam has
picked up the tumblers. Now immediately stop and read the number that is lined
up when you hear this click.
This is one of the combination numbers.
Now continue to the right 2 digits past the last try and move the dial back to
the opening number and repeat the procedure. Do this until you have all the
combination numbers.
Now, we know the opening number is the final number, but we dont know what
order the combination numbers are arranged, so you will have to try all 9
(assuming 3 combinations and one opening number) possible variations. One will
open the safe.
Sometimes you will have to move the dial a couple of points beyond the opening
number to get the cam to retract the bolt and open the lock.
Some locks open to the right, i.e.
R four turns 22
L three turns 18
R two turns 46
L to opening 15
Some will be opposite (L-R-L-R).
Most locks will open no matter which way it is turned, however, a rough
guideline is:
Sargeant-right
Diebold-right
Yale-left
Mosler-left
This sort of technique will not work on high quality modern safes as they
employ nylon tumblers, sound baffles, and devices to prevent the lever from
touching the tumblers until ready to open. Because of this, the good agent will
have a couple of alternate methods in his repertoire.
Drilling:
---------
A good way to tell where to drill is to place your microphone against the safe
about half way between the handle and the dial. Now shake the handle violently.
This should make the tail piece hit the bolt. Keep it up until you can locate
the point where the noise is loudest, i.e., where the tail piece and bolt come
into actual contact. Drill here.
It makes little difference whether you drill off the tail piece or bolt; either
will open the safe.
It is safer to use a large bit, say one inch, on a powerful drill. This may
require more than one person pushing on the drill...
Use special hardened carbide or diamond points, and always carry 4 or 5 with
you.
Some safes have hardened plates covering the vital areas to discourage those
who would use the method. When you encounter such a plate, press very hard on
the drill and DO NOT ease up, even for a moment, as the will cause the bit to
burn up.
You may have to take your torch (you did bring a torch, didn't you?) and heat
the plate quite hot, let it cool, or throw water on it, drill some more,
reheat, cool, drill, etc. Most hard plates are fairly thin.
Punching:
---------
In this case, we are not referring to what the frustrated agent often resorts
to when the safe fails to open, but rather, a quick method of forced entry. The
agent knocks off dial off with some heavy instrument and punches the spindle
with a center punch and hammer. With a bit of luck, the safe can often be
opened.
However, on many high quality safes, any puching attempt will shatter the
spindle, or cause the bolt to dead-lock. Some safes have a surprise in the form
of tear gas which will be released when punched or burned.
Grinding:
---------
A high speed electric grinder with a carbide wheel may be employed to cut away
the safe wall around the lock mechanism.
Burning:
--------
One of the most popular methods over the years has been the burn job.
This is accomplished with an oxy-acetylene torch. The protecting wall in front
of the dial mechanism is cut away revealing the tumblers which are manipulated
to open the door.
Many modern safes are laminated steel connected to something like copper, which
conducts heat away from the burning area. Also one must consider the
possibility of tear gas releasing at about 130 degrees.
Paper can withstand temperatures up to about 350 degrees.....
Other:
------
Many people feel they must go in via the door as that is the conventional way,
when, in real life, the door may be the protected part of the safe.
Often, turning a safe on its top and attacking the bottom with a sledge or
heavy duty axe may yield opening results. However, this method does lack a bit
in the finesse department.
Peeling is another possibilty: Here one drills a hole in the corner of the door
(thereby missing the anti-drill plate) and inserts a crowbar and peels back the
first layer of te door. This will usually expose the locking mechanism.
One can also drill from the rear, look into the safe, decide if it is worth
opening. As an added bonus, most safes can be opened by turning the dial while
watching the mechanism from the rear and visually aligning the tumblers.
Thermic Lance:
--------------
A thermic lance, or burning bar, will cut through most safes with no noise,
minimum hassle, and have the added advantage of being concealable and simple to
operate.
scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/
Automobile Security from the Thieves P.O.V.
Automobile Security from the Thieves P.O.V.
by Eckstahsee
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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
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So you got a car an say this car has valubles in it and say you wanna protect it..well there are several ways to do this an im gonna TRY to enlighten you on a few ways you can prevent your car from being owned.
1) Park your car in a well lit area,this sounds practical but it works. Security lights around the area where a car will be parked is great. A thief is somewhat like lightning it most often takes the path of least resistance. If a car is lit up like a candle this blows his ability to be sneaky and sneaky is good.
2) Get a car alarm. The louder the better too. Noise and light distract a would be thief and lots of noise makes it impossible to think clearly and this can cause havok in the thiefs mind. If he/she cannot think clearly because of the alarm going off they are more likely to abandon ship and take off.
3) Lock your fucking doors. I mean my god if you wanna protect what you have worked hard for then start out by taking the simplest of steps to prevent any mishaps. Believe it or not most of my scores come from walking by a car an simply trying the doorhandle, and you would be surprised at just how many people leave their cars unlocked.
4) Window tint, this can prevent a thief from seeing whats on the inside of the car. Most of the time when something is stolen from the inside of a car its because the thief has looked through the window to check out his/her future score. Window tint may prevent a thief from seeing any valubles in the car and if they cant see whats inside its hard for them to follow through with breaking inside if they cant see if there is anything inside worth the effort.
5) This one is for those people that run impound lots. DOGS! MEAN !! DOGS !!....i tell you what there is no feeling worse than jumping a fence to realize your now standing in the presence of a mean ass dog. Ive made many dashes from dogs and im sure others have to. This is one of the number one things you can do to protect your impound lots. Fence it in and turn loose a couple of vicious animals on the inside.
6) For those rollin on DuBs. Buy quality wheel locks, specialty locks, unusual locks. A wheel thief will set your pride and joy on blocks, tires, car batterys, logs and any damn thing they can find. Wheel locks slow them down but dont always ensure success. Specialty wheel locks and custom wheel locks are available and if your rolling on 24's with a price tag to match the size then a couple hundred more for a custom wheel lock shouldnt hurt you too bad,and these custom one off locks are hard to duplicate thus making it unfeasable to attempt a theft.
7) Got that Bump in da trunk? Detachable face CD players have that detachable face for a reason,duh its nearly fuckin useless without the face. Sure you can order replacment faces but would a common thief? NO. Got subs in the trunk? Then bolt them bitches down, this not only slows the thief down but also ensures your system doesnt do any bouncing around while your driving. Got an Amp? If possible bolt this to the speaker box if not then try to hide or secure it elsewhere. Use good quality screws to hold the subs in the box, most thiefs are only equiped with non-power tools thus trying to remove a wood screw with a hand-driver is painfully slow and a pain in the ass.
Your common automobile thief is usually at work at night. Take away their ability to not be seen by adding plenty of light. Take away their ability to be quiet by adding a car alarm. Take away their ability to be quick by properly securing your goods and valubles inside the vehicle.
If you can take away all the thiefs advantages then he/she is far less likely to make your automobile another statistic.
scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/
The FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions List) from alt
The FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions List) from alt
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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
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Newsgroups: alt.locksmithing,news.answers,alt.answers
Path: bloom-beacon.mit.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!world!spike
From: spike@world.std.com (Joe Ilacqua)
Subject: alt.locksmithing answers to Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Message-ID:
Followup-To: alt.locksmithing
Summary: This post gives answers to many of the common questions
asked. It is strongly recommended that it be read before posting
to this group.
Supersedes:
Reply-To: alt-locksmithing-faq@world.std.com
Organization: Software Tool & Die
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 1994 16:23:54 GMT
Approved: news-answers-request@MIT.Edu
Expires: Sun, 30 Oct 1994 16:23:53 GMT
Lines: 568
Xref: bloom-beacon.mit.edu alt.locksmithing:5411 news.answers:25806 alt.answers:4487
Archive-name: locksmith-faq
Last-modified: 94/4/20
Version: 5.0
alt.locksmithing Answers To Frequently Asked Questions
[The FAQ has been rewritten in HTML, a hypertext format used by the]
[World Wide Web. This text version is now being generated from the]
[HTML version. The formating has changed some, but it's basically the]
[same FAQ.]
[Added references to Loompanics online catalog, and Graham Pulford's]
["Catalogue of High Security Locks", plus a note on Septon's overseas]
[ordering policy.]
_________________________________________________________________
This FAQ does not attempt to teach you locksmithing, just to answer
simple questions, give you some hints on getting started, and point
you to sources of information. Also included is a glossary of common
terms. The Appendix covers many supply places, books and tapes.
This FAQ is posted monthly to the USENET groups "alt.locksmithing",
"alt.answers", and "news.answers". The lastest version of the FAQ
should be available from the USENET FTP archives on "rtfm.mit.edu" in
directory "/pub/usenet/alt.locksmithing". You can also retrieve this
FAQ by email; send mail "mail-server@rtfm.mit.edu" to with "send
usenet/alt.locksmithing/a.l_a_t_F_A_Q_(F).Z" contained in the BODY of
the message.
A hypertext version of this FAQ may be accessed on the World Wide Web
using "http://www.std.com/archives/alt-locksmithing".
Questions Answered:
1. Where can I get a lock pick set?
2. How can I make my own picks and tension wrenches?
3. Is it legal to carry lock picks?
4. Where can I get the "MIT Guide to Picking Locks"?
+ I can't print the Guide!
5. What books can I get on locksmithing?
6. What are "pick guns" or "automatic pickers" and do they work?
7. How do I open a Kryptonite lock?
8. Can the Club be picked? Is the Club any good?
9. How can I get keys stamped "DO NOT DUPLICATE" duplicated?
10. Do Skeleton Keys Exist?
11. Should I bother with high security ("pick proof") locks for my
home?
12. What should I do after I read a book?
13. How do I continue learning about locksmithing?
14. How do Simplex pushbutton locks work?
15. Is there a formula that can find the combination of a Master Lock?
16. What is the "shear line".
* Other online locksmithing related resources
* Glossary
* Appendix of sources, books, videotapes.
* Credit & Thanks
1. WHERE CAN I GET A LOCK PICK SET?
Try a locksmith supply house. Look under "Locksmiths' Equipment &
Supplies" in the Yellow Pages. Your State or the company may have
requirements, such as having to prove you are a locksmith or showing a
drivers license; call and find out. Also look for mail order houses in
the Appendix.
2. HOW CAN I MAKE MY OWN PICKS AND TENSION WRENCHES?
You can file or grind picks out of spring steel. It is best to use
spring steel - sources include hacksaw blades, piano (music) wire,
clock springs, streetsweeper bristles (which can be found along the
street after the sweeper has passed), etc. In a pinch safety pin
steel, or even a bobby pin (much worse) can be used. When grinding,
keep the steel from getting so hot as to anneal (soften) it. You may
have to re-harden/re-temper it. (See a book on knife making,
gunsmithing, or machine shop practice for a discussion on heat
treating steel.) Some people prefer a rigid tension wrench and just
bend a small screwdriver for this, but many prefer a slightly flexible
wrench and use spring steel.
The "MIT Guide to Picking Locks" and the "Eddie The Wire" books (see
below) cover making these tools. There are many places you can buy
picks and tension wrenches. See the appendix.
3. IS IT LEGAL TO CARRY LOCK PICKS?
This depends on where you are. In the U.S. the common case seems to
be that it is legal to carry potential "burglar tools" such as keys,
picks, crowbars, jacks, bricks, etc., but use of such tools to commit
a crime is a crime in itself. Call your local library, district
attorney, or police department to be sure.
Places where it *is* illegal to carry lock picks:
The District of Columbia.
4. WHERE CAN I GET THE "MIT GUIDE TO PICKING LOCKS"?
The author of the "MIT Guide to Picking Locks", "Ted the Tool", has
posted a PostScript(TM) version of the Guide which can be retrieved
via ftp from:
ftp.std.com:/archives/alt.locksmithing/MITGtLP/MITLockGuide.ps.Z
You will need a PostScript printer or previewer to view this file.
Dave Ferret scanned/typed in a version of the Guide, it is a file of
the text of the Guide and a collect of GIFs of the diagrams. This can
be found in ZIP and tar format in:
ftp.std.com:/archives/alt.locksmithing/MITGtLP/unofficial
4B. I CAN'T PRINT THE GUIDE!
Try deleting the two lines that read:
statusdict /lettertray known {statusdict begin lettertray end} if
5. WHAT BOOKS CAN I GET ON LOCKSMITHING?
An excellent encyclopedic reference:
The Complete Book of Locks & Locksmithing, 3rd Ed.
C.A. Roper and Bill Phillips TAB Books
ISBN 0-8306-3522-X (Paper) 0-8306-?522-1 (Hard)
$18.95 (Paper) $26.95 (Hard)
also many people think highly of:
Eddie The Wire: How to Make Your Own Professional Lock Tools
"Eddie The Wire" Loompanics Unlimited
ISBN 0-685-39143-4
4 Volumes $20
Your local book store should be able to order these for you. You can
find other titles under "Locksmithing" in the Books In Print Subject
Index, which any decent bookstore should have. Also see the Appendix.
6. WHAT ARE "PICK GUNS" OR "AUTOMATIC PICKERS" AND DO THEY WORK?
A "pick gun" is a manual or powered device that uses a vibrating pin
to try to bounce the pin tumblers so there are spaces at the shear
line so the the plug can rotate. They are not a panacea, aren't always
effective, and the net seems to feel that these are no substitute for
a little skill with a pick and learning how locks work.
7. HOW DO I OPEN A KRYPTONITE LOCK?
Easiest: If you registered your lock, call or write Kryptonite for a
new key. Or call a local locksmith, they should be able to pick and
re-key the lock for you.
Easy: Get a car jack and jack it apart. Careful, otherwise it is very
possible that you'll damage the bike.
Easy: Use a cut-off wheel in a Dremel tool to cut the lock at the hole
in the shackle (where there is the least to cut.)
Harder: If it doesn't have the newer brass jacket, peel back the
plastic coating on the key end, drill out the pin that holds in the
cylinder, remove the cylinder, open.
Hardest: Chill the metal of the "U" with liquid Nitrogen or Freon,
smash with hammer. While this is a "well known" method, it may be an
urban legend.
8. CAN THE CLUB BE PICKED? IS THE CLUB ANY GOOD?
Stan Schwarz writes:
I used to have a "Club", purchased on the recommendation of a
coworker. The first time I tried picking it, it took me
approximately 30 seconds, using the cap of a Papermate Flexgrip pen
for tension, and a bent jumbo paperclip to rake the pins. With
practice, I was able to reliably pick every "Club" I encountered in
5-30 seconds using these tools.
However, it doesn't really matter, no car thief is going to pick it,
they are going to cut the soft plastic steering wheel with a hacksaw
or bolt cutters and slip the Club off.
It has also been claimed that the Club can be broken if you grab it
with both hands, put your feet on the dashboard, and push with your
legs and pull with your arms as hard as you can. Be sure to wear
gloves!
The Club is useful as a deterrent, a car thief may pass over your car
for something easier. But if a thief wants your car, the Club will not
stop him. An alarm with an ignition kill and a theft recovery system
like LoJack is a better, but more expensive, option.
9. HOW CAN I GET KEYS STAMPED "DO NOT DUPLICATE" DUPLICATED?
Some locksmiths will take the Nike approach and "Just Do It". Some
will even stamp "DO NOT DUPLICATE" on the copy for you. If that
doesn't work, label the key by sticking some tape on the "DO NOT
DUPLICATE" stamp and try again.
10. DO SKELETON KEYS EXISTS?
"Skeleton Keys" are keys ground to avoid the wards in warded locks.
There is no analog with modern pin tumbler locks. Master keys may open
a large set of locks, but this is designed in when the locks are
installed.
11. SHOULD I BOTHER WITH HIGH SECURITY ("PICK PROOF") LOCKS FOR MY HOME?
Why not? If you are installing locks, the better quality ones are not
much more expensive, and are physically more secure (e.g., have
hardened inserts to protect against drilling.) However, note that
protection against picking doesn't add a large amount to your security
since burglars almost always go the brute force route. Regardless, you
should have a deadbolt, and check your window security.
12. WHAT SHOULD I DO AFTER I READ A BOOK?
After some reading, then the next thing is some experience. Go to
K-Mart, buy a deadbolt lock for around $10, and take the entire thing
apart (you'll need tools like screwdrivers, and perhaps a pair of
pliers) to see how a pin tumbler lock works. K-Mart carries a clone of
the Kwikset which is made to be very easy to take apart. (Key-in-knob
locksets are both more expensive and harder to take apart.)
You then can practice picking this lock by leaving out all but one
stack of pins. This will be exceedingly easy to pick, and will mostly
provide experience in manipulating the pick and tension wrench. Then
put in one more pin stack and try again - feeling when one stack is
picked and then the second one will let the cylinder move. Keep on
adding stacks. Try picking with the curved finger, and also raking.
13. HOW DO I CONTINUE LEARNING ABOUT LOCKSMITHING?
There are several things you can do to continue learning more about
locks and locksmithing. One, of course, is to subscribe to a
locksmithing magazine. Some years ago I compared the National
Locksmith to the Locksmith Ledger and felt that the latter was a bit
better on technical info. Call yourself a Student Locksmith, or
perhaps a Security Consultant (surely you have given some advice to
*somebody*!).
But all this reading won't help all that much, so you have to continue
buying various types of locks, taking them apart, figuring out
everything about them, and installing, removing, modifying them. Buy
some key blanks, make up a master key scheme, and file the keys to fit
(assuming you don't have a key machine) - filing may take a few
minutes, but it does work. Maybe buy a re-keying kit (kit of different
size pins, with a follower) and do some re-keying for your family or
friends (the same size pins fit, I think, the familiar Kwikset and
Schlage pin tumbler locks) so that their deadbolts can be opened with
their normal front door key. Or buy a deadbolt installation kit (hole
saw plus template - I think that Black and Decker makes a good one,
available at better building supply places) and put in a few deadbolts
for your family and friends - charging them only for the material plus
a couple of bucks towards the installation kit - and re-key the
deadbolt for them, too.
Buy or make a pick set, and use your practice locks to practice
picking. Do you have a good locksmith supply catalog? If not, give a
call to a local supplier, or perhaps to Kenco of Omaha, Nebraska (they
have an 800 number) and get their catalog - they sell lots of goodies
including most everything I've been discussing. Help people at work
who have been locked out of their desks or filing cabinets. Desks
usually have wafer tumbler locks which are *much* easier to pick than
pin tumbler locks. Filing cabinets are not as easy to pick, but are
pickable (actually some are very easy to pick - they vary greatly) and
also can be opened by pushing a flexible plastic ruler past the
sliding drawer - carefully inspect some working cabinets to see what
I'm talking about.
14. HOW DO SIMPLEX PUSHBUTTON LOCKS WORK?
They are complicated, and it takes a rather long discussion to cover
their operation and how to manipulate them. A clear discussion is
available by anonymous ftp from the host ftp.ftp.com in
/pub/hobbit/flamage/mine/simplex.locks and there may be some other
locksmithing info in hobbit's directory.
15. IS THERE A FORMULA THAT CAN FIND THE COMBINATION OF A MASTER LOCK?
Not as far as anyone knows. You can buy code books with which will
tell you the combination for a give serial number, but these are big
somewhat expensive books that list every lock.
However, John F. Bousquet
There is another way. There is a shirt picket sized formula book.
From the serial number you determine which of several progressions
were used by the factory. Then a guide number is found from the
table to devide into the serial number and a remainder is found.
This is referenced on a page in the guide. The last digit is
manipulated and that narrows it down to about 5 possabilities. I
bought one of these 20 pace packrt Try out combination finders and
never wound up using it. Now I just call it up on notebook computer.
16. WHAT IS THE "SHEAR LINE"?
Visualize a door lock - there is a fixed block (the lock body) of
metal with a cylindrical hole in it - the axis of this hole is
horizontal. It is filled with a "cylinder", which is the part which
turns with your key - and something attached to the rear of the
cylinder actuates the latch/bolt when you turn the cylinder. There are
some small vertical holes drilled in both the cylinder and the fixed
block so they match up - and they are in a straight line which is the
same line as the key. Each hole (pin chamber) is filled with (at
least) two pins (small cylindrical pieces of metal) but the pins are
of varying length, and there is a spring at the top of the chamber so
that the pins are pushed away by the spring. The bottom pin is short
enough so that it will be pushed completely down within the cylinder
and the top pin (imagining right now there are just two pins - extra
one are only used for master keying) goes from inside the cylinder to
inside the fixed block. Now the cylinder can't turn, because in each
pin chamber there will be a pin blocking the "shear" line - the line
where the pin chamber would "shear" apart when the cylinder turned.
You put your key in - and the different heights on the key are made to
"complement" the different lengths of the bottom pin so that all of
the bottom pins are raised up just to the "shear line" between the
cylinder and the fixed block part of the lock. Then the key can turn
the cylinder around its axis and actuate whatever internal mechanisms
are inside.
OTHER ONLINE LOCKSMITHING RELATED RESOURCES:
* Graham Pulford's "Catalogue of High Security Locks"
ftp://ftp.std.com/archives/alt.locksmithing/hiseclox.ps.Z
* "MIT Guide to Picking Locks"
ftp://ftp.std.com/archives/alt.locksmithing/MITGtLP/MITLockGuide.p
s.Z
* Hobbit's Simplex lock description
ftp://ftp.ftp.com/pub/hobbit/flamage/mine/simplex.locks
* The Online Loompanics Catalog
gopher://gopher.well.sf.ca.us/00/Business/catalog.asc
GLOSSARY:
blank
A key that has not yet been cut to fit a lock.
core
A removable cylinder and plug, used in a interchangeable core
system.
core key
A key which is used to remove a core.
cylinder
The part of the lock in which the the pins are set and which
contains the plug.
cuts
The notches cut in the key to make it fit a lock.
key way
The slot in which the key is inserted.
master key
A key which opens a group of locks designed to match it.
pin tumblers
The pins in the lock which are moved to the shear line by the
key.
pin chamber
the tubular hole in which pins and a spring stay.
plug
The part of the lock which the key is inserted and is rotated
by the key.
wafer tumbler
Used in locks which are less expensive than pin tumbler locks.
They behave somewhat similarly.
warded lock
A lock using wards to keep an incorrect key from entering the
key hole and turning.
APPENDIX
Here are some of the things collected about locations and
availabilities (most are from alt.locksmithing). We do not endorse any
of these, but feel that you can get information by reading. As of this
writing Septon is the only supplier that will sell to overseas
customers.
Septon, Inc. P.O. Box 9, Maiden-on-Hudson, NY 12453
(800) 537-8752 voice (914) 246-3416 fax (914) 246-0638 outside North
America
Will sell to overseas customers, but requires credit cards and a U.S.
$100 minimum order on such sales.
Call for Catalog.
Phoenix Systems Inc. P.O. Box 3339, Evergreen, CO 80439
303-277-0305 [Survivalist Group, all though the "Shoot all the Commies
for God" stuff is kept to a minimum.]
Call for Catalog.
Here are a few titles: (with Library of Congress Catalog Number)
- - ----------------------
Title: Locksmithing
Author: F.A. Steed
LC Number: TS 520 S73 1982
Title: All About Locks and Locksmithing
Author: Max Alth
LC Number: TS 520 A37 1972
Title: Professional Locksmithing Techniques
Author: Bill Phillips
LC Number TS 520 P55 1991
or you can buy books from (no credit cards)
Loompanics Unlimited
Publishers & Sellers of Unusual Books
P.O. Box 1197
Port Townsend, WA 98368
When they say unusual, they mean it! Everything from igloo
construction to techniques of execution. There is now a $5 charge for
their catalog. As far as we know they do not have a phone or fax for
orders.
#52042 B & E: A TO Z - HOW TO GET IN ANYWHERE, ANYTIME (VHS TAPE) by
Scott French, 1987. Nearly two full hours of on-site techniques to get
in any building, beat any lock, open any safe, enter any car. Price:
$59.95
#40031 INVOLUNTARY REPOSSESSION -OR- IN THE STEAL OF THE NIGHT by John
Russell III (64pp, 1979). Written by a private detective for auto
repossessors. All the standard methods of entering and starting
locked, keyless automobiles are given. Price: $10.95
#52050 TECHNIQUES OF BURGLAR ALARM BYPASSING by Wayne B. Yeager
(110pp, 1990). Alarms covered include: Magnetic Switches, Window Foil,
Sound and Heat Detectors, Photoelectric Devices, Guard Dogs, Central
Station Systems, Closed-Circuit Television, and more. Price: $14.95
#52047 THE B & E BOOK - BURGLARY TECHNIQUES AND INVESTIGATION by Burt
Rapp (149pp, 1989). This is an investigatory guide and practical
manual designed for the police officer in charge of a burglary
investigation and its follow-up. Price: $14.95
#52054 TECHNIQUES OF SAFECRACKING by Wayne B. Yeager (92pp, 1990).
Chapters include: Safe Mechanics and Operations, Guessing the
Combination, Manipulation Techniques, Safe Drilling Methods, Punching
and Peeling, Torches Etc., Explosives, Miscellaneous Methods of Safe
Entry, Safe Deposit Boxes, Deterrence and Prevention, and more. Price:
$12.00
#52052 HIGH SPEED ENTRY - INSTANT OPENING TECHNIQUES (VHS TAPE - 1Hr)
1990. Topics include: the Rabbit Tool and Hydra force door openers,
the Omni Force jam spreader, the best exothermic lance in the world,
two tools that open almost any auto in America, electronic locksmiths,
rippers and pullers, shove knives and re-lockers, and more "techie"
tools. A complete source guide is included. Price: $39.95
#52032 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO LOCK PICKING by Eddie the Wire (80pp
1981). The very best book ever written on how to pick locks (quite the
claim). Topics covered include: Basic Principle and General Rules, How
To Mount Practice Locks, Warded Locks, Disc Tumbler Locks, Lever
Tumbler Locks, Pin Tumbler Locks, Wafer Tumbler Locks, Lock
Modifications To Thwart Tampering And How To Overcome Them, Various
Other Ways Of Bypassing Locks And Locking Mechanisms. Price: $14.95
#52040 HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN PROFESSIONAL LOCK TOOLS (4 Volume set) by
Eddie the Wire (31pp, 1980; 50pp 1981; 44pp, 1981; 55pp, 1986).
Basically this set describes how to make all the tools mentioned the
above book along with mass production techniques, carrying cases,
using a PC to generate pick profiles, making "soft" break-ins, how to
"case" a subdivision, and more. Price: $20.00
#52044 PERSONAL PICKS (VHS TAPE - 72min) by Eddie the Wire, 1988.
Demonstrates the step-by-step process of making lock tools in the home
workshop. Price: $29.95
#52051 EXPERT LOCK PICKING (VHS TAPE - 60min) by Ron Reed, 1990. The
author has won the California Locksmiths Association lock-picking
championship (I guess that's good). Uses specially designed cutaway,
see-through locks, so you can view the inside mechanisms of working
locks as they respond to picking techniques. Price: $59.95
#52048 ADVANCED LOCK PICKING by Steven M. Hampton (50pp, 1989).
Describes the inner workings of the new high-security locks and
includes templates for making custom tools. Schematic diagrams for
portable electronic picks to open magnetic key and card locks. Tips on
enhancing finger sensitivity, concentration power, constructing
practice lock boxes, and more. Price: $10.00
#52045 CIA FIELD-EXPEDIENT KEY CASTING MANUAL (48pp, 1988). How to
make a duplicate key when you can keep the original only a short time.
Price: $8.00
#52043 HOW I STEAL CARS - A REPO MAN'S GUIDE TO CAR THIEVES' SECRETS
(VHS TAPE - 45min) by Pierre Smith, 1988. How to open and enter
practically any modern automobile and how to start them without the
key. Price: $49.95
#52016 HOW TO FIT KEYS BY IMPRESSIONING by Desert Publications (26pp,
1975). Subjects covered include: Fitting bit keys, Fitting flat steel
keys, Fitting lever tumbler keys, Fitting disc tumbler keys, Necessary
tools, Techniques of obtaining impressions, and more. Price: $7.00
Wheeler-Tanner Escapes
3024 E. 35th
Spokane, WA 99223
509 448 8457.
Mainly Magic/Escape Artist supplies, but that includes lots of
locksmithing equipment and books. If you need more info, jusk ask.
(Catalog is $2, refundable w/ 1st order).
CREDIT & THANKS
The alt.locksmithing FAQ was put together from postings by
spike@world.std.com spike@world.std.com (Joe "Spike" Ilacqua), and
hes@ncsu.edu (Henry Schaffer), with a major data collection effort by
sanguish@digifix.com (Scott Anguish). Edited by hes. Translated to
English by eliz@world.std.com (Elizabeth Lear). Send comments,
criticisms, and complements to "alt-locksmithing-faq@world.std.com".
The following have contributed to this FAQ:
Scott Anguish
J. James (Jim) Belonis II
Stephen J Berch
John F. Bousquet
Chris Boyd
Robert Bruce Findler
Hobbit
Marcus Jenkins
Larry Margolis
Andy McFadden
Stan Schwarz
Thomas E Zerucha
scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/
ALT.LOCKSMITHING
ALT.LOCKSMITHING answeres to frequently asked ques
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Newsgroups: alt.locksmithing,news.answers,alt.answers
Path: senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!bloom-beacon.mit.edu!panix!news.mathworks.com!uunet!in1.uu.net!worlddra.com!spike
From: spike@indra.com (Joe Ilacqua)
Subject: alt.locksmithing answers to Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Approved: news-answers-request@MIT.Edu
Message-ID:
Supersedes:
Reply-To: alt-locksmithing-faq@world.std.com
Expires: Mon, 22 May 1995 23:59:11 GMT
Summary: This post gives answers to many of the common questions
asked. It is strongly recommended that it be read before posting
to this group.
Organization: Indra's Net, Inc. -- Public Access Internet.
Date: Sat, 8 Apr 1995 23:59:12 GMT
Followup-To: alt.locksmithing
Lines: 672
Xref: senator-bedfellow.mit.edu alt.locksmithing:9967 news.answers:41573 alt.answers:8547
Archive-name: locksmith-faq
Last-modified: 95/4/8
Version: 5.2
[I changed jobs in October and the FAQ has moved to follow me.]
[The WWW version has moved to "www.indra.com" and the FTP archive to]
["ftp.indra.com".]
[Added a section on Master Lock manipulation.]
[Added a section on impressioning from Stephen Berch.]
[Added a section on code books from William A Moyes.]
[Added a reference Steve Haehnichen's pick images.]
ALT.LOCKSMITHING ANSWERS TO FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
_________________________________________________________________
This FAQ does not attempt to teach you locksmithing, just to answer
simple questions, give you some hints on getting started, and point
you to sources of information. Also included is a glossary of common
terms. The Appendix covers many supply places, books and tapes.
This FAQ is posted monthly to the USENET groups "alt.locksmithing",
"alt.answers", and "news.answers". The latest version of the FAQ
should be available from the USENET FTP archives on "rtfm.mit.edu" in
directory "/pub/usenet/alt.locksmithing". You can also retrieve this
FAQ by email; send mail "mail-server@rtfm.mit.edu" to with "send
usenet/alt.locksmithing/a.l_a_t_F_A_Q_(F).Z" contained in the BODY of
the message.
A hypertext version of this FAQ may be accessed on the World Wide Web
using "http://www.indra.com/archives/alt-locksmithing".
Questions Answered:
1. Where can I get a lock pick set?
2. How can I make my own picks and tension wrenches?
3. Is it legal to carry lock picks?
4. Where can I get the "MIT Guide to Picking Locks"?
+ I can't print the Guide!
5. What books can I get on locksmithing?
6. What are "pick guns" or "automatic pickers" and do they work?
7. How do I open a Kryptonite lock?
8. Can the Club be picked? Is the Club any good?
9. How can I get keys stamped "DO NOT DUPLICATE" duplicated?
10. Do Skeleton Keys Exist?
11. Should I bother with high security ("pick proof") locks for my
home?
12. What should I do after I read a book?
13. How do I continue learning about locksmithing?
14. How do Simplex pushbutton locks work?
15. Is there a formula that can find the combination of a Master Lock?
16. Can the combination of a Master Lock be found though manipulation?
17. What is the "shear line".
18. What is "impressioning"?
19. What is a code? What is a codebook?
* Other online locksmithing related resources
* Glossary
* Appendix of sources, books, videotapes.
* Credit & Thanks
1. WHERE CAN I GET A LOCK PICK SET?
Try a locksmith supply house. Look under "Locksmiths' Equipment &
Supplies" in the Yellow Pages. Your State or the company may have
requirements, such as having to prove you are a locksmith or showing a
drivers license; call and find out. Also look for mail order houses in
the Appendix.
2. HOW CAN I MAKE MY OWN PICKS AND TENSION WRENCHES?
You can file or grind picks out of spring steel. It is best to use
spring steel - sources include hacksaw blades, piano (music) wire,
clock springs, streetsweeper bristles (which can be found along the
street after the sweeper has passed), etc. In a pinch safety pin
steel, or even a bobby pin (much worse) can be used. When grinding,
keep the steel from getting so hot as to anneal (soften) it. You may
have to re-harden/re-temper it. (See a book on knife making,
gunsmithing, or machine shop practice for a discussion on heat
treating steel.) Some people prefer a rigid tension wrench and just
bend a small screwdriver for this, but many prefer a slightly flexible
wrench and use spring steel.
The "MIT Guide to Picking Locks" and the "Eddie The Wire" books (see
below) cover making these tools. There are many places you can buy
picks and tension wrenches. See the appendix.
Steve Haehnichen
and JPEG images of picks located at ftp://ftp.vigra.com/steve/locks/
which are useful guides for those making their own picks.
3. IS IT LEGAL TO CARRY LOCK PICKS?
This depends on where you are. In the U.S. the common case seems to
be that it is legal to carry potential "burglar tools" such as keys,
picks, crowbars, jacks, bricks, etc., but use of such tools to commit
a crime is a crime in itself. Call your local library, district
attorney, or police department to be sure.
Places where it *is* illegal to carry lock picks:
The District of Columbia.
4. WHERE CAN I GET THE "MIT GUIDE TO PICKING LOCKS"?
The author of the "MIT Guide to Picking Locks", "Ted the Tool", has
posted a PostScript(TM) version of the Guide which can be retrieved
via ftp from:
ftp.indra.com:/archives/alt-locksmithing/MITGtLP/MITLockGuide.ps.Z
You will need a PostScript printer or previewer to view this file.
Dave Ferret scanned/typed in a version of the Guide, it is a file of
the text of the Guide and a collect of GIFs of the diagrams. This can
be found in ZIP and tar format in:
ftp.indra.com:/archives/alt-locksmithing/MITGtLP/unofficial
Mattias Wingstedt has converted the Guide to HTML and made it
available on the Web at
http://www.lysator.liu.se/mit-guide/mit-guide.html.
4B. I CAN'T PRINT THE GUIDE!
Try deleting the two lines that read:
statusdict /lettertray known {statusdict begin lettertray end} if
5. WHAT BOOKS CAN I GET ON LOCKSMITHING?
An excellent encyclopedic reference:
The Complete Book of Locks & Locksmithing, 3rd Ed.
C.A. Roper and Bill Phillips TAB Books
ISBN 0-8306-3522-X (Paper) 0-8306-?522-1 (Hard)
$18.95 (Paper) $26.95 (Hard)
also many people think highly of:
Eddie The Wire: How to Make Your Own Professional Lock Tools
"Eddie The Wire" Loompanics Unlimited
ISBN 0-685-39143-4
4 Volumes $20
Your local book store should be able to order these for you. You can
find other titles under "Locksmithing" in the Books In Print Subject
Index, which any decent bookstore should have. Also see the Appendix.
6. WHAT ARE "PICK GUNS" OR "AUTOMATIC PICKERS" AND DO THEY WORK?
A "pick gun" is a manual or powered device that uses a vibrating pin
to try to bounce the pin tumblers so there are spaces at the shear
line so the the plug can rotate. They are not a panacea, aren't always
effective, and the net seems to feel that these are no substitute for
a little skill with a pick and learning how locks work.
7. HOW DO I OPEN A KRYPTONITE LOCK?
Easiest: If you registered your lock, call or write Kryptonite for a
new key. Or call a local locksmith, they should be able to pick and
re-key the lock for you.
Easy: Get a car jack and jack it apart. Careful, otherwise it is very
possible that you'll damage the bike.
Easy: Use a cut-off wheel in a Dremel tool to cut the lock at the hole
in the shackle (where there is the least to cut.)
Harder: If it doesn't have the newer brass jacket, peel back the
plastic coating on the key end, drill out the pin that holds in the
cylinder, remove the cylinder, open.
Hardest: Chill the metal of the "U" with liquid Nitrogen or Freon,
smash with hammer. While this is a "well known" method, it may be an
urban legend.
8. CAN THE CLUB BE PICKED? IS THE CLUB ANY GOOD?
Stan Schwarz writes:
I used to have a "Club", purchased on the recommendation of a
coworker. The first time I tried picking it, it took me
approximately 30 seconds, using the cap of a Papermate Flexgrip pen
for tension, and a bent jumbo paperclip to rake the pins. With
practice, I was able to reliably pick every "Club" I encountered in
5-30 seconds using these tools.
However, it doesn't really matter, no car thief is going to pick it,
they are going to cut the soft plastic steering wheel with a hacksaw
or bolt cutters and slip the Club off.
It has also been claimed that the Club can be broken if you grab it
with both hands, put your feet on the dashboard, and push with your
legs and pull with your arms as hard as you can. Be sure to wear
gloves!
The Club is useful as a deterrent, a car thief may pass over your car
for something easier. But if a thief wants your car, the Club will not
stop him. An alarm with an ignition kill and a theft recovery system
like LoJack is a better, but more expensive, option.
9. HOW CAN I GET KEYS STAMPED "DO NOT DUPLICATE" DUPLICATED?
Some locksmiths will take the Nike approach and "Just Do It". Some
will even stamp "DO NOT DUPLICATE" on the copy for you. If that
doesn't work, label the key by sticking some tape on the "DO NOT
DUPLICATE" stamp and try again.
10. DO SKELETON KEYS EXISTS?
"Skeleton Keys" are keys ground to avoid the wards in warded locks.
There is no analog with modern pin tumbler locks. Master keys may open
a large set of locks, but this is designed in when the locks are
installed.
11. SHOULD I BOTHER WITH HIGH SECURITY ("PICK PROOF") LOCKS FOR MY HOME?
Why not? If you are installing locks, the better quality ones are not
much more expensive, and are physically more secure (e.g., have
hardened inserts to protect against drilling.) However, note that
protection against picking doesn't add a large amount to your security
since burglars almost always go the brute force route. Regardless, you
should have a deadbolt, and check your window security.
12. WHAT SHOULD I DO AFTER I READ A BOOK?
After some reading, then the next thing is some experience. Go to
K-Mart, buy a deadbolt lock for around $10, and take the entire thing
apart (you'll need tools like screwdrivers, and perhaps a pair of
pliers) to see how a pin tumbler lock works. K-Mart carries a clone of
the Kwikset which is made to be very easy to take apart. (Key-in-knob
locksets are both more expensive and harder to take apart.)
You then can practice picking this lock by leaving out all but one
stack of pins. This will be exceedingly easy to pick, and will mostly
provide experience in manipulating the pick and tension wrench. Then
put in one more pin stack and try again - feeling when one stack is
picked and then the second one will let the cylinder move. Keep on
adding stacks. Try picking with the curved finger, and also raking.
13. HOW DO I CONTINUE LEARNING ABOUT LOCKSMITHING?
There are several things you can do to continue learning more about
locks and locksmithing. One, of course, is to subscribe to a
locksmithing magazine. Some years ago I compared the National
Locksmith to the Locksmith Ledger and felt that the latter was a bit
better on technical info. Call yourself a Student Locksmith, or
perhaps a Security Consultant (surely you have given some advice to
*somebody*!).
But all this reading won't help all that much, so you have to continue
buying various types of locks, taking them apart, figuring out
everything about them, and installing, removing, modifying them. Buy
some key blanks, make up a master key scheme, and file the keys to fit
(assuming you don't have a key machine) - filing may take a few
minutes, but it does work. Maybe buy a re-keying kit (kit of different
size pins, with a follower) and do some re-keying for your family or
friends (the same size pins fit, I think, the familiar Kwikset and
Schlage pin tumbler locks) so that their deadbolts can be opened with
their normal front door key. Or buy a deadbolt installation kit (hole
saw plus template - I think that Black and Decker makes a good one,
available at better building supply places) and put in a few deadbolts
for your family and friends - charging them only for the material plus
a couple of bucks towards the installation kit - and re-key the
deadbolt for them, too.
Buy or make a pick set, and use your practice locks to practice
picking. Do you have a good locksmith supply catalog? If not, give a
call to a local supplier, or perhaps to Kenco of Omaha, Nebraska (they
have an 800 number) and get their catalog - they sell lots of goodies
including most everything I've been discussing. Help people at work
who have been locked out of their desks or filing cabinets. Desks
usually have wafer tumbler locks which are *much* easier to pick than
pin tumbler locks. Filing cabinets are not as easy to pick, but are
pickable (actually some are very easy to pick - they vary greatly) and
also can be opened by pushing a flexible plastic ruler past the
sliding drawer - carefully inspect some working cabinets to see what
I'm talking about.
14. HOW DO SIMPLEX PUSHBUTTON LOCKS WORK?
Hobbit has written an excellent discussion on workings of Simplex
locks. Hobbit left FTP Software and his FTP archive is currently
unavailable. This is expected to change by the next time this FAQ is
published at the end of March. Stay tuned.
15. IS THERE A FORMULA THAT CAN FIND THE COMBINATION OF A MASTER LOCK?
Not as far as anyone knows. You can buy code books with which will
tell you the combination for a give serial number, but these are big
somewhat expensive books that list every lock.
However, John F. Bousquet
There is another way. There is a shirt picket sized formula book.
From the serial number you determine which of several progressions
were used by the factory. Then a guide number is found from the
table to divide into the serial number and a remainder is found.
This is referenced on a page in the guide. The last digit is
manipulated and that narrows it down to about 5 possibilities. I
bought one of these 20 pace pocket Try out combination finders and
never wound up using it. Now I just call it up on notebook computer.
16. CAN THE COMBINATION OF A MASTER LOCK BE FOUND THOUGH MANIPULATION?
Recently a method of finding the combination of a Master Lock has
been presented on alt.locksmithing. It seems there is a formula that
relates the numbers in a combination to each other. The first and last
digit of any combination will both have the same remained when divided
by 4, and the second digit's remained when divided by 4 will be - or +
2 from the first and third's remainder. For example, if you knew the
last digit of the combination was 5, the first digit could be any
digit that had a remainder of 1 when divided by 4 and the second
number any digit with a remainder of 3 when divided by 4. This means
given one number in the combination, there are only ten numbers that
can be in each of the other two positions, and thus only 100 possible
combinations given one number in the combination.
And it turns out there is an easy way to find the last digit of the
combination. On older Master Locks, ones where the arrow at the top is
raised, simply pull on the shackle and turn the dial until it catches,
that's the third number in the combination. On news locks with the
recessed arrow, there are twelve places the dial will catch if you
turn it while pulling on the shackle. Seven of these will catch
between two numbers, ignore these, and find the the five that catch on
a number. Four of these will end in the same digit, i.e, 1, 11, 21,
and 31, the fifth end with a different digit, and the is the third
number in the combination.
This means that given the knowledge, time, and patience, anyone can
find the combination and open your lock. But then so can anyone with a
pair of bolt cutters, a hacksaw, or maybe even a hammer. These are
three (US) dollar locks. They have many useful applications, but they
are not high security locks. Plan your usage accordingly.
17. WHAT IS THE "SHEAR LINE"?
Visualize a door lock - there is a fixed block (the lock body) of
metal with a cylindrical hole in it - the axis of this hole is
horizontal. It is filled with a "cylinder", which is the part which
turns with your key - and something attached to the rear of the
cylinder actuates the latch/bolt when you turn the cylinder. There are
some small vertical holes drilled in both the cylinder and the fixed
block so they match up - and they are in a straight line which is the
same line as the key. Each hole (pin chamber) is filled with (at
least) two pins (small cylindrical pieces of metal) but the pins are
of varying length, and there is a spring at the top of the chamber so
that the pins are pushed away by the spring. The bottom pin is short
enough so that it will be pushed completely down within the cylinder
and the top pin (imagining right now there are just two pins - extra
one are only used for master keying) goes from inside the cylinder to
inside the fixed block. Now the cylinder can't turn, because in each
pin chamber there will be a pin blocking the "shear" line - the line
where the pin chamber would "shear" apart when the cylinder turned.
You put your key in - and the different heights on the key are made to
"complement" the different lengths of the bottom pin so that all of
the bottom pins are raised up just to the "shear line" between the
cylinder and the fixed block part of the lock. Then the key can turn
the cylinder around its axis and actuate whatever internal mechanisms
are inside.
18. WHAT IS "IMPRESSIONING"?
Impressioning is a technique for opening a lock by making a key out
of a key blank for the lock. The blank is filed to fit; the place and
amount of filing depends upon small marks left on the key blank by the
pin tumblers. The procedure starts with smoothing the key blank with
fine abrasive paper or a very fine file to remove any marks or
scratches and to leave a surface which will show the marks. The key
blank is then inserted into the lock and the blank twisted from side
to side and rocked up and down. The blank is removed and inspected for
marks and a shallow cut made with a file on the mark closest to the
tip of the blank, or on the most prominent mark. (There are several
systems for determining which mark should be cut and for the correct
way to twist and rock.)
Repeat this for the same position until the tumbler doesn't leave any
mark on the blank and then move to the next pin. When the last cut is
made the lock should open with the newly cut key - assuming that the
interpretation of the marks and the cutting has been done right.
The advantage of impressioning for opening a lock is that it creates a
key for that lock. But the process is slow and requires a fair amount
of skill. With expert skill levels, the process is considerably
faster. There are a number of special pliers made to hold the blank
and make it easier to give the proper twist with rocking that will
mark the blank. The marks on the blank are difficult to see and you
must start with a blank that fits the lock. (Or several blanks, as
this doesn't always work the first time.) Impressioning may not be as
quick and easy as picking the lock. Picking a lock often leaves
tell-tale scratches on the tumblers and plug that won't happen with
impressioning.
19. WHAT IS A CODE? WHAT IS A CODEBOOK?
Ever see a lock on a desk, filling cabinet, or a key with a number
stamped on it like FR332, 2H5212, or 61624? Those are called codes.
They tell locksmiths exactly how to cut a key to fit the lock. There
are three types of codes. There are direct digit codes. Each digit
corresponds to each cut on the key, the value of each digit tell how
deep to make the cut. Schlage prints the code for the key directly on
the key. These codes are usually long, each pin needs its own digit.
The second type in which each digit does not directly correspond to
the depth, but there is a pattern between the code and the key. Often
mathematical tricks are used (for example you must subtract 435 from
the code, then cut the key).
The last type require a locksmith to have a codebook. There is no
pattern to the cuts on the keys. The Reed Codebooks are one of the
most common. There are 12 general volumes (cars, cabinet, suit cases,
door locks) and 5 padlock volumes. Each volume is about 600 pages
long. Several manufactures now selling computer programs that contain
all this information. Needless to say that the software is
copy-protected. A complete set costs well over $800.
OTHER ONLINE LOCKSMITHING RELATED RESOURCES:
* Graham Pulford's "Catalogue of High Security Locks"
ftp://ftp.indra.com/archives/alt-locksmithing/hiseclox.ps.Z
* "MIT Guide to Picking Locks" Web page.
http://www.lysator.liu.se/mit-guide/mit-guide.html
* "MIT Guide to Picking Locks" in Postscript.
ftp://ftp.indra.com/archives/alt-locksmithing/MITGtLP/MITLockGuide
.ps.Z
* Hobbit's Simplex lock description - Temporarily unavailable.
* Steve Haehnichen's pick images ftp://ftp.vigra.com/steve/locks/
* The Online Loompanics Catalog
gopher://gopher.well.sf.ca.us/00/Business/catalog.asc
GLOSSARY:
blank
A key that has not yet been cut to fit a lock.
core
A removable cylinder and plug, used in a interchangeable core
system.
core key
A key which is used to remove a core.
cylinder
The part of the lock in which the the pins are set and which
contains the plug.
cuts
The notches cut in the key to make it fit a lock.
key way
The slot in which the key is inserted.
master key
A key which opens a group of locks designed to match it.
pin tumblers
The pins in the lock which are moved to the shear line by the
key.
pin chamber
the tubular hole in which pins and a spring stay.
plug
The part of the lock which the key is inserted and is rotated
by the key.
wafer tumbler
Used in locks which are less expensive than pin tumbler locks.
They behave somewhat similarly.
warded lock
A lock using wards to keep an incorrect key from entering the
key hole and turning.
APPENDIX
Here are some of the things collected about locations and
availabilities (most are from alt.locksmithing). We do not endorse any
of these, but feel that you can get information by reading. As of this
writing Septon is the only supplier that will sell to overseas
customers.
Septon, Inc. P.O. Box 9, Maiden-on-Hudson, NY 12453
(800) 537-8752 voice (914) 246-3416 fax (914) 246-0638 outside North
America
Will sell to overseas customers, but requires credit cards and a U.S.
$100 minimum order on such sales.
Call for Catalog.
Phoenix Systems Inc. P.O. Box 3339, Evergreen, CO 80439
303-277-0305 [Survivalist Group, all though the "Shoot all the Commies
for God" stuff is kept to a minimum.]
Call for Catalog.
Here are a few titles: (with Library of Congress Catalog Number)
- - ----------------------
Title: Locksmithing
Author: F.A. Steed
LC Number: TS 520 S73 1982
Title: All About Locks and Locksmithing
Author: Max Alth
LC Number: TS 520 A37 1972
Title: Professional Locksmithing Techniques
Author: Bill Phillips
LC Number TS 520 P55 1991
or you can buy books from (no credit cards)
Loompanics Unlimited
Publishers & Sellers of Unusual Books
P.O. Box 1197
Port Townsend, WA 98368
When they say unusual, they mean it! Everything from igloo
construction to techniques of execution. There is now a $5 charge for
their catalog. As far as we know they do not have a phone or fax for
orders.
#52042 B & E: A TO Z - HOW TO GET IN ANYWHERE, ANYTIME (VHS TAPE) by
Scott French, 1987. Nearly two full hours of on-site techniques to get
in any building, beat any lock, open any safe, enter any car. Price:
$59.95
#40031 INVOLUNTARY REPOSSESSION -OR- IN THE STEAL OF THE NIGHT by John
Russell III (64pp, 1979). Written by a private detective for auto
repossessors. All the standard methods of entering and starting
locked, keyless automobiles are given. Price: $10.95
#52050 TECHNIQUES OF BURGLAR ALARM BYPASSING by Wayne B. Yeager
(110pp, 1990). Alarms covered include: Magnetic Switches, Window Foil,
Sound and Heat Detectors, Photoelectric Devices, Guard Dogs, Central
Station Systems, Closed-Circuit Television, and more. Price: $14.95
#52047 THE B & E BOOK - BURGLARY TECHNIQUES AND INVESTIGATION by Burt
Rapp (149pp, 1989). This is an investigatory guide and practical
manual designed for the police officer in charge of a burglary
investigation and its follow-up. Price: $14.95
#52054 TECHNIQUES OF SAFECRACKING by Wayne B. Yeager (92pp, 1990).
Chapters include: Safe Mechanics and Operations, Guessing the
Combination, Manipulation Techniques, Safe Drilling Methods, Punching
and Peeling, Torches Etc., Explosives, Miscellaneous Methods of Safe
Entry, Safe Deposit Boxes, Deterrence and Prevention, and more. Price:
$12.00
#52052 HIGH SPEED ENTRY - INSTANT OPENING TECHNIQUES (VHS TAPE - 1Hr)
1990. Topics include: the Rabbit Tool and Hydra force door openers,
the Omni Force jam spreader, the best exothermic lance in the world,
two tools that open almost any auto in America, electronic locksmiths,
rippers and pullers, shove knives and re-lockers, and more "techie"
tools. A complete source guide is included. Price: $39.95
#52032 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO LOCK PICKING by Eddie the Wire (80pp
1981). The very best book ever written on how to pick locks (quite the
claim). Topics covered include: Basic Principle and General Rules, How
To Mount Practice Locks, Warded Locks, Disc Tumbler Locks, Lever
Tumbler Locks, Pin Tumbler Locks, Wafer Tumbler Locks, Lock
Modifications To Thwart Tampering And How To Overcome Them, Various
Other Ways Of Bypassing Locks And Locking Mechanisms. Price: $14.95
#52040 HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN PROFESSIONAL LOCK TOOLS (4 Volume set) by
Eddie the Wire (31pp, 1980; 50pp 1981; 44pp, 1981; 55pp, 1986).
Basically this set describes how to make all the tools mentioned the
above book along with mass production techniques, carrying cases,
using a PC to generate pick profiles, making "soft" break-ins, how to
"case" a subdivision, and more. Price: $20.00
#52044 PERSONAL PICKS (VHS TAPE - 72min) by Eddie the Wire, 1988.
Demonstrates the step-by-step process of making lock tools in the home
workshop. Price: $29.95
#52051 EXPERT LOCK PICKING (VHS TAPE - 60min) by Ron Reed, 1990. The
author has won the California Locksmiths Association lock-picking
championship (I guess that's good). Uses specially designed cutaway,
see-through locks, so you can view the inside mechanisms of working
locks as they respond to picking techniques. Price: $59.95
#52048 ADVANCED LOCK PICKING by Steven M. Hampton (50pp, 1989).
Describes the inner workings of the new high-security locks and
includes templates for making custom tools. Schematic diagrams for
portable electronic picks to open magnetic key and card locks. Tips on
enhancing finger sensitivity, concentration power, constructing
practice lock boxes, and more. Price: $10.00
#52045 CIA FIELD-EXPEDIENT KEY CASTING MANUAL (48pp, 1988). How to
make a duplicate key when you can keep the original only a short time.
Price: $8.00
#52043 HOW I STEAL CARS - A REPO MAN'S GUIDE TO CAR THIEVES' SECRETS
(VHS TAPE - 45min) by Pierre Smith, 1988. How to open and enter
practically any modern automobile and how to start them without the
key. Price: $49.95
#52016 HOW TO FIT KEYS BY IMPRESSIONING by Desert Publications (26pp,
1975). Subjects covered include: Fitting bit keys, Fitting flat steel
keys, Fitting lever tumbler keys, Fitting disc tumbler keys, Necessary
tools, Techniques of obtaining impressions, and more. Price: $7.00
Wheeler-Tanner Escapes
3024 E. 35th
Spokane, WA 99223
509 448 8457.
Mainly Magic/Escape Artist supplies, but that includes lots of
locksmithing equipment and books. If you need more info, jusk ask.
(Catalog is $2, refundable w/ 1st order).
CREDIT & THANKS
The alt.locksmithing FAQ was put together from postings by
spike@indra.com spike@world.indra.com (Joe "Spike" Ilacqua), and
hes@ncsu.edu (Henry Schaffer), with a major data collection effort by
sanguish@digifix.com (Scott Anguish). Edited by hes. Translated to
English by eliz@world.std.com (Elizabeth Lear). Send comments,
criticisms, and complements to "alt-locksmithing-faq@world.indra.com".
The following have contributed to this FAQ:
Scott Anguish
J. James (Jim) Belonis II
Stephen J Berch
John F. Bousquet
Chris Boyd
Robert Bruce Findler
Hobbit
Marcus Jenkins
Larry Margolis
Andy McFadden
William A Moyes
Stan Schwarz
Thomas E Zerucha
scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/
Fun with Alarms
FUN WITH ALARMS
A FACT I FORGOT TO MENTION IN MY PREVIOUS ALARM ARTICLES IS THAT ONE CAN ALSO
USE POLYURETHANE FOAM IN A CAN TO SILENCE HORNS AND BELLS. YOU CAN PURCHASE
THIS AT ANY HARDWARE STORE AS INSULATION. IT IS EASIER TO HANDLE AND DRIES
FASTER.
MANY PEOPLE THAT TRAVEL CARRY A POCKET ALARM WITH THEM. THIS ALARM IS A SMALL
DEVICE THAT IS HUNG AROUND THE DOOR KNOB, AND WHEN SOMEONE TOUCHES THE KNOB HIS
BODY CAPACITANCE SETS OFF THE ALARM. THESE NASTY NUISENCES CAN BE FOUND BY
WALKING DOWN THE HALLS OF A HOTEL AND TOUCHING ALL THE DOOR KNOBS VERY QUICKLY.
IF YOU HAPPEN TO CHANCE UPON ONE, ATTACH A 3' LENGTH OF WIRE OR OTHER METAL
OBJECT TO THE KNOB. THIS WILL CAUSE THE SLEEPING BUSINESS PIG INSIDE TO THINK
SOMEONE IS BREAKING IN AND CALL ROOM SERVICE FOR HELP. ALL SORTS OF FUN AND
GAMES WILL ENSUE.
SOME HIGH-SECURITY INSTALATIONS USE KEYPADS JUST LIKE TOUCH-TONE PADS (A
REGISTERED TRADE MARK OF BELL SYSTEMS) TO OPEN LOCKS OR DISARM ALARMS. MOST
USE THREE OR FOUR DIGITS. TO FIGURE OUT THE CODE, WIPE THE KEY-PAD FREE FROM
ALL FINGERPRINTS. AFTER IT HAD BEEN USED JUST APPLY FINGER PRINT DUST AND ALL
FOUR DIGITS WILL BE MARKED. NOW ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS FIGURE OUT THE ORDER.
IF YOU WANT TO HAVE SOME FUN WITH A KEYPAD, TRY PRESSING THE * AND # AT THE
SAME TIME. MANY UNITS USE THIS AS A PANIC BUTTON. THIS WILL BRING THE OWNER
AND THE COPS RUNNING AND EVER-ONE WILL HAVE A GOOD TIME. NEVER TRY TO REMOVE
THEM FROM THE WALL, AS THEY ALL HAVE TAMPER SWITCHES.
ON THE SUBJECT OF HOLDUPS, MOST PLACES (INCLUDING SUPER-MARKETS, LIQUER STORES,
ETC.) HAVE WHAT IS KNOWN AS A MONEY CLIP. THESE LITTLE NASTIES ARE PLACED AT
THE BOTTOM OF A MONEY DRAWER AND WHEN THE LAST FEW BILLS ARE WITH-DRAWN A
SWITCH CLOSES AND SETS THE ALARM OFF. THAT'S WHY WHEN YOU MAKE YOUR WITHDRAWL
IT'S BEST TO HELP YOUR-SELF SO YOU CAN CHECK FOR THESE LITTLE NASTIES. IF YOU
FIND THEM, MERELY INSERT ONES UNDERNEATH THE PILE OF TWENTIES, AND THEN PULL
OUT THE TWEN-TIES, LEAVING THE ONE-DOLLAR BILL BEHIND TO PREVENT THE CIRCUIT
FROM CLOSING.
IF YOU SHOPLIFT AND SEE CAMERAS, LOOK AT THE BRAND. IF IT IS SURVEILLANCE
VIDEO SYSTEMS (SVS) YOU NEED NOT WORRY. THESE CAMERAS LOOK REALISTIC TO THE
POINT OF PILOT LIGHTS, COAX, AND SCANNING. HOWEVER, THEY ARE ONLY EMPTY BOXES.
scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/
Picking combination locks
.
scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/
Beating Tubular Locks without Damage
Tubular locks are used on many things. What is a wonder, is that they're used in areas where high security is required. The wonder I mention, is that I learned to beat a tubular lock before I entered 7th grade!
Well, the theory here is that tension must be kept on the lock, whilst the pins are being depressed. The theory is simple, but in practice, it is more complicated than that.
Bend a precision screwdriver for a tension wrench. This will work only with high quality stuff, as the cheap crap will only break. Unfold a jumbo paperclip.
To beat it, find the part of the lock where the slit goes both inside the tube and outside the tube. Place your tension wrench there. Use light-moderate tension and depress the pins with your paperclip. With enough practice, a lock of this variety will open.
Practice routinely, without TV, music, or distractions. And I mean none, not even if your little brother lands a flatground 360-flip on his skateboard. Concentrate entirely on the lock you are trying to defeat. Try to envision what is going on inside the lock, how it is responding to your play. Exercises in this will allow to pop one open in a few seconds, no matter what they say.
scam , lock picking , hacking , phone phreak , security , weapons , homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/
Friday, December 14, 2007
An Aussie Beer Can Mortar
An Aussie Beer Can Mortar
by Andy
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Once apon a time well before I was connected to the net........
About Me..
Married, one ruggie, and a military man.
As a mechanical fitter I have been employed many times to manufacture tools and jigs for other tradesmen working in different departments in my unit. I have an interest in firearms (and weapons)of all types. I have used my skills to manufacture model, nad larger cannon as well as helping mates with legal modifications to there firearms. Yes I have also committed the most grevious of sins by de-activating or de-milling other wise serviceable weapons just because they were unfasionable at the time. I will never vote for that government again!!
Well any way one day...
I happened upon a large peice of brass round stock 125mm x 400mm. Too nice to be left lying around, too short for a cannon, just right for a mortar. So a quick look at my reference material and a suitable mortar shape was drawn up, scaled to give the least waste from the raw material... and just the right size to be bored to 62mm. A nice clearence diameter for a Victoria Bitter Beer Can. The exact dimentions of my mortar are unimportant, needless to say that I overengineered to some degree.
The projectile was selected because of:
A, size
b, shape
c, diameter
and, d, abundance!
The brass stock was offered to my trusty lathe and trued up externaly then drilled and bored to size. External dimentions were basic as all a Blackpowder mortar is, is a short, thick tube. The trunnion is located at the base, just the same as the modern stokes mortar, with a wooden carrage.
Mortars and Howitsers have a common theme, use a small powder charge to lob the projectile to the desired range. Many early mortar have huge bore sizes enabling large diameter projectiles to be fired short distances, all that was needed then. In keeping with the mortar theme a powder chamber 30mm in Dia. x 30mm deep was machined into the base of the short barrel.
Initial testing of the mortar with empty and gravel filled beer cans proved dissapointing.
The thinking cap went on and the very next weekend ten concrete filled beer cans were ready for some serious R&D
The Big day (no not Trinity NM 1945) but close!
A blow by blow account by Brat (not his real name)and Andy..
"Will it work this time" Snickered Brat.
"Fu** off Brat, I've just finished greasing the can, it would justabout fit your a** keep it up!" I retorted, we are really good mates!
"Eat me" or words to that effect snapped Brat.
"Is that all the powder you are going to use?" asked Brat
"Is the wick long enough?"
"Should'nt you push the can in more? finished Brat, the expert.
"Who's fu**ing this duck, stand back wicks lit" I replied.
"Shit"
BOOOM..gasp for breath, good shockwave!
The can launched out of that thing like a scalded cat (and we havew seen some oof those), rose to 200 meters, reached apogee (dictonary job) and tumbled into a lake at the 175 meter mark on the range (1/2 way between the turkeys and the rams. The thud of impact was preceded by the 10 meter shower of water glinting in the morning sun.
Just afterwards I was basking in wonder of what I had done, watching the thick cloud of smoke lasily drifd down range when I heared a funny noize...
"Is that you Brat?" I asked
"Mummummf, MMUMMF!"
"Speak up prick!" I replied as I turned to see Brat. His eyes were rolled back, in one bony hand was a beer can, in the other the powder flask and the reason he was incoherent 6" of wick clenched in between his drooling lips.
"OK your turn"
On a more analitical note:
Range at 45 - 55 Deg 180 to 250 meters
Altitude 200 to 250 meters, by eye
F grade Blackpowder only, augmented with homemade stuff to fill the chamber
Only the finest VB cans were used
Lots of Vasiline as lube
Felt wadding
commercial cannon fuse
The bore fouled up quickly, probably because of my blackpowder
Cement (mortar mix) strenghtened the can and increased pressure nicely.
We stood well back!!! and still felt the shock wave.
Standard disclamers, I'm telling a story, not giving instructions!!!
A BEER CAN IN FLIGHT IS A WONDERFUL SIGHT!
AIM
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Acetone Peroxide Detonators
ACETONE PEROXIDE EXPLOSIVE
Acetone peroxide is a primary explosive that can be made from hair bleach (hydrogen peroxide), acetone, and sulfuric acid. This explosive is to be used in the fabrication of detonators.
MATERIAL REQUIRED: SOURCES:
Hydrogen Peroxide, Hair bleach (15-25volume content) Drug stores and hair supply stores
Acetone, Hardware stores, Drug stores
Sulfuric acid, Clear battery acid boiled until white fumes appear.
Eye dropper or syringe with glass tube
Graduated cylinder (cc or ml) or other measuring device
Thermometer ( 0 to 100 C.)
Glass containers
Large Pan
Ice and Salt
Water
Paper towels
PROCEDURE:
1. Measure 30 milliliters of acetone and 50 milliliters of hydogen peroxide into a glass container and mix thoroughly.
2. Cool the acetone/peroxide mixture by placing its container in a larger one containing a mixture of ice, salt, and water.
NOTE: Bacause of the lighter inner container being bouyant in the larger outer container, it is necessary to secure it so that it won't fall over into the ice, salt, and water mixture.
3. Cool the acetone/peroxide mixture to 5 degrees C.
4. Add 2.5 milliliters of concentrated sulfuric acid to the acetone/peroxide mixture slowly, drop by drop, with the use of an eye dropper. Stir the mixture during the addition of the sulfuric acid with a thermometer, keeping the temperature between 5-10 degrees C. Should the temperature rise abouve 10 degrees C., stop adding the sulfuric acid and continue stirring until the temperature drops again to 5 degrees C., then continue adding the sulfuric acid.
5. After all the sulfuric acid has been added, continue stirring the mixture for another five minutes.
6. Let the acetone/peroxide/sulfuric acid mixture stand in the ice/water/salt bath or remover the inner container and place it in an ice box for 12 to 24 hours.
7. After 12 hours white crystals of acetone peroxide will precipitate out of the once clear solution. Precipitation should be completed after 24 hours.
CAUTION: At this point the mixture is a primary explosive. Keep away from shock, friction, and flame.
8. Filter the mixture through a paper towel into a container to collect the solid particles.
9. Wash the solid particles collected in the paper towel with small amounts of ice cold water poured over them. Discard the liquid in the container.
10. Place these explosive crystals in a container and allow to dry.
CAUTION: Handle the dry explosive with great care. Do not scrape or handle it roughly. Keep away from sparks or open flame. Store in a cool, dark, dry place.
HOW TO USE:
Acetone peroxide is a powerful initiator and can be used by itself as the main filler when making homemade detonaters. Using 2 1/2" lengths of brass or copper tubing with one end sealed shut with either solder or epoxy resin, begin partially filling the tube with acetone peroxide and compressing with a loading press. Continue this process untill the explosive is within 1/2" of the top. Stopper the open end tightly with a cork or wood stopper. When ready to use, remove stopper and insert time fuse. Seal around fuse and tube, then insert into main charge to a depth of 2". These caps will detonate most explosives.
NOTE: These detonators should be used within 7 days of their manufacture and should be stored in a cool, dry place.
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Safer Chlorine Gas Bomb
This alternative of the Chlorine bomb has all of the explosive power of Chlorine/Ammonia with a much longer "Running Time". 1) 1/2 cup Powdered pool chlorine 2) 1/2 cup pine oil Or Professional PineSol 3) A Mason jar or perhaps a stronger container if more power is needed
Place powdered chlorine in the jar, then wipe the jar lid and the rim of the jar to remove all powder from these surface to insure that you get a good seal. Next pour in the pine oil and quickly seal the jar as tight as possible. Although this combo also produces deadly gas,the reaction is much slower and allows at least 2 minutes and maybe longer depending on the mixture. I have tested the Chlorine/Ammonia bomb and the reaction is so fast that I would highly recommend avoiding it.
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homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/
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Low-Grade FlashBangs
Ya know those missle batteries that have those skinny black tubes that shoot in the air and whistle? Well, in most, well in just about all those black tubes that shoot in the air, is about 20 little black rocks. I dont know what they're made of, but god damn they're fun to play with!
Heres what ya do: Take about three hundred(which isn't a lot, considering i got a 100 pack for a buck), of those missles apart, and collect the little rocks in side of them. Then get a hold of a film canister and some gasoline. Make a hole in the top of the film canister, just big enough to fit a fuse in. Fill about 1/3 of the canister with gasoline, and the rest of the canister with the rocks. Put the top on the canister, stick a fuse in the hole in the top, light it, and run your ass off.
This explosion creates a VERY bright flash, and take my word for it, you don't wanna look at it when it goes off, cause it'll hurt your eyes, and you'll probably not be able to see straight for a few seconds. This is really fun to do at night when you see about five cars coming your way from both lanes. The people in the cars might possibly get in a wreck if your timing is right
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homemade explosives , know learn at http://galillegal.blogspot.com/
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Detenators
This is a perfect wat to place a timing det on a target while getting needed cover.
You will need.
1 Clothes Peg.
2 Thumb-tacks.
1 knife
wire
battery/power source
bomb/container/pipe/etc
1 inch of solder
take the clothes peg (a wooden one is best!) and cut a semi-curcular like nuke at the two thin ends of the peg where you apply pressure to open when using. it should look like a little "U" shape at the very tips of the ends. try and have so when you apply pressure to the ends the same type of cut is in proportion to the other. Now take your two thumb-tacks and rap the copper of the wire around the under neath of the tack head so that the exposed copper hugs the tack nicely. Now insert the tack in to the jaw ends of the peg (the part were it grips the line) so that the two tacks touch eachother when allowed to come into contact.
take your solder and tie a two - three loop knot at the top of the solder, make it nice and tight. Apply pressure to the tails again so that the jaws are fully expanded and the tack heads are at their most incresed distance away from eachother.
place the solder into the pre cut semi-curcular nuckes at the tail end, so the first knot sits tightly on top of the top tail. Now make another knot at the other end of the solider, keeping a rough estimate of the distance between each knot is as to keep the two tack heads from touching at the other end.
You should have a fully open peg with the solder knotted at both ends of the tail avoiding the tack heads at the jaw end from touching. You MUST BE CAREFULL FROM NOW ON IN AND QUICK!!! attach your wire from the tacks to a + & - source of your det / battery / fuse etc etc........ and get to cover.
Slowly, the pressure from the centralised peg coil will expand the solder, thus breaking in the middel, between the two knots, thus allowing the + & - points of the two tacks in the jaw end to meet and ...then........wall-ahh. Your detitnation is complete. You can variy your timing from 1 min to 5 depending on the strenth of the solder, but atleast you can do big jobs on jcb, jeeps, cars, buildings etc. without having to detinate your device locally, your away and all by the time it goes off, or sitting with a pretzel!
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The True Combustion Cannon
by Ghetto_Smurf
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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
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Although the operation of this object is very fun and can be almost addictive, DO NOT AIM THIS MACHINE AT ANYONE! It is very likely that it will cause major and pottentialy irreversable harm to that person! Many people I know have had to spend a night or two in the hospital for missuse of it! Don't be irresponsable by trying to take it to the 'next level.' Now that that is done, here goes the instructions.
Don't be annoyed by those "other" files. This one will be the easiest to understand and visualize!
Quantity---Materials you need! (*** Don't substitute)
1 4" diam. Sch 40. ABS 3' length
1 2 1/2" diam. Sch 40. ABS 5 1/2' length (or less)
1 4" to 2 1/2" ABS reducer
1 B-B-Q lighter (the red button attached to b-b-q's)
1 125 mL. ABS cement, medium grey ***
1 4" diam. Sch 40. ABS Cleanout Adapter (female threads)
1 4" diam. Sch 40. ABS Cleanout Adapter Plug (male threads)
1 1/4" bolt. 3" long w/fitting nut
Instructions
First you will want to layout all your parts. Do this now.
You will want to start with the Cleanout Adapter plug, next you will want to set down the Cleanout Adapter. Then the 4" diam ABS pipe, above that you will want to set down the b-b-q lighter. After the 4" diam. pipe, put down the reducer, then finally the 2 1/2" diam. ABS pipe.
It should look like this---> (No Scale)
[Cleanout Adapter plug]
------------------------
[Cleanout Adapter]
-------------------
[4" diam. ABS pipe]
| |
| |
| | [b-b-q lighter]
| |
| |
| |
[4" to 2 1/2" reducer]
-----------------
[2 1/2" diam. ABS pipe]
| |
| | {nut & bolt}
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
__________________________
Test the fitting of the 2 12" ABS pipe and the reducer, and mark the length that goes in. Go up 1" and drill a hole big enough to push the bolt through both sides. Tighten the nut securly. Apply ABS cement to the end of the 2 1/2" diam ABs pipe that was marked. Quickly and tightly push the cemented end into the 2 1/2" hole in the reducer. Next, take the 4" diam. ABS pipe and drill a hole through one side. The exact or closest diam.of the b-b-q lighter (the end with the two leads!). Insert the end with leads into the hole, and apply cement around the exterior of the hole and b-b-q lighter. Let all the cement set for five minutes. Next apply cement to an end on the 4" diam. ABS pipe. Quickly and tighly push the cemented end into the 4" hole in the reducer. Now your construction should be a barrel with a reducer to a canister with a lighter on it.To finish to need to apply cement to the other end on the 4" diam. ABS pipe, and now for the finishing touches...quickly and tightly push the cemented end into the Cleanout Adapter (not on the threaded end!). You will also need to screw on the Cleanout Adapter Cap, but don't get any cement on that piece, this is extremly vital!
Advanced Procedures
If you want, you can get a file or grinder and grind the end of the 2 1/2" diam. ABS pipe so that it is sharp. This is so that you can jam a potato through the end and it automatically fits the barrel.
Propellants
Hair spray (two spray bursts)
Butane (small bursts)
Gasoline (two drops or so, but let the drops turn into their gas state)
Zippo fluid/lighter fluid
Hydroger (untested)
Methane (untested)
Propane
Deodorant
**Please be cautious!
Projectiles (some may need to be wadded {see below})
The reason I asked you to put in the nut and bolt is so that when you stuff you barrel, the projectile will stop exactly where it should and it will not fall into the combustion chamber.
Potatoes
PVC conduit pipe darts (see below)
Paint Ball cluster bombs (See below)
Hard boiled eggs
Soda cans
Smoke bombs
Ice slug (see below)
Shrapnel (chunks of scrap metal)
B-B's
Batteries
A glowing bag (see below)
Fruits and veggies
And almost anything else that will fit into the barrel
Use your imagination
Projectile Instructions
PVC conduit pipe darts
You will need a length of pvc conduit (small diam. than your barrel), any length. Cut the conduit at 9" length intervals starting from the female end. Not find a wooden cylinder, like a broom handle or something that it thicker than the hole in the conduit. Now get some sand paper and sand down the wood so that it is about 1mm or 2 thicker than the hole, then cut off about 1" - 3/4". Jam that wood through the end so that 2mm stick out (not flush with the conduit). *If you choose, you can apply some pvc cement to the wood befor you jam it in, although I am not sure if it helps. Next put about 2" of pennies inside the barrel (if you put them in flat you will get more per area) or enough to make the tip weighted, but never go past the half way mark in the 9".now get a piece of old clotch and cut a strip 2" wide and 1 1/2' long. Roll this strip of cloth up tight. Test fit it, if it is too wide, cut off some length. Now slop on lots of pvc cement to that baby and jam it all the way down the conduit to make contace with the pennies... get a stick and jam it in some more. ..you want it tight! Now it should be heavy in one end and light on the other. The balance point should be somewhere between the wood and the half-way mark. If it is past, then the dart may tilt down and not fly straight. Get some masking tape (1 1/2" wide) and wrap it around the open end of the conduit. Continue wrapping it until it fits your barrel snugly! Not lose, make sure it is so snug that it must be forced down the barrel, but with some ease. The snugness makes sure that no air escapes which means that the dart will go VERY FAR. These things are very dangerous...if someone is hit with one of these they will die! I'm not kidding, I have been testing these things at different distances and amounts of firing mixtures and I have put one of these rockets through 3/4" plywood, cleanly. I mean so clean that you can't see any slivers left on either side!
Paint Ball cluster bombs
You will need a handful of paint balls, and two plastic or styrofoam cups. Take a cup, put the bottom of the cup into the barrel, and make a line all the way around the cup, repeat that for the second cup. Not cut off the bottom of the cup at the line. Get some super glue and glue the ends together so it should be open end, then closed end, then open end. Now slide that down your barrel to the end. Get the handful of paintballs and put them on a paper towel. Grab each corner and bring them up to meat each other. Twist the paintballs up and run the clump of paintballs trough a mist of water to get the papaer towel wet. Slid this down the barrel, but carefully so that the paper towel does not rip or tear. When fired, this things goes out and on contact with explode with a white creamy and colorful mess or paper and paint.
Ice Slugs
Cut a length of 2 1/2" ABS pipe from the end of your barrel (or swipe it from somewhere). Now take an end and cover it with duct tape, so no water can leak out from it. Fill the pipe half full of water then put it in the freezer for 4 hours, then finish filling the pipe. Put back in freezer and let if freeze overnight. Next morning take it out, slide it from the casing and slide it into your barrel, it fits perfectly and can have major damaging effects!
A glowing bag (Make the same night of use)
Take some gardening cloth and make a ball of crumpled up cloth that will fit inside your barrel. Take another piece of cloth and cover the crumpled ball the same way with the painballs. Twist it and tie it. Now get a whole bunch of glowing stuff like the glowing paint, glowing glue, or just a bunch of glowing sticks that have been broken and put it all in a bucket. Now dunk the ball into the glowing mixture and leave it submerged for a few minutes to make sure it is saturated. Make a few of them and repeat. Leave them in the glowing stuff until you use them. Now quickly take one (with gloves on) and jam it down the barrel and fire it to oblivion. When it hits something, it makes a huge glowing mess, and while in flight looks really cool!
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Checking in with New Bomb Detection Strategies
Checking in with New Bomb Detection Strategies
by Mike Ellenbogen
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NOTICE: TO ALL CONCERNED Certain text files and messages contained on this site deal with activities and devices which would be in violation of various Federal, State, and local laws if actually carried out or constructed. The webmasters of this site do not advocate the breaking of any law. Our text files and message bases are for informational purposes only. We recommend that you contact your local law enforcement officials before undertaking any project based upon any information obtained from this or any other web site. We do not guarantee that any of the information contained on this system is correct, workable, or factual. We are not responsible for, nor do we assume any liability for, damages resulting from the use of any information on this site.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Checking in with New Bomb Detection Strategies
by Mike Ellenbogen
On December 21, 1988, the unforgettable bombing of Pan Am Flight 103 in the sky over Lockerbie, Scotland, claimed the lives of 259 passengers and eleven victims on the ground. More than seven years later, airlines and regulators are still struggling with how best to protect passengers from the threat of terrorist attempts to plant explosives.Detecting explosives is more difficult than detecting weapons, because explosives are not metallic and do not appear in predictable shapes. Explosive materials can be easily molded into shapes that resemble common travel items such as food or plastic bottles. These substances are virtually impossible to detect with standard x-ray technology. Even the more advanced color x-ray inspection systems have proven ineffective for detecting explosives.
Progress is being made, however. Several promising technologies are being developed; some are already in daily use. But faced with the knowledge that no system yet provides an impenetrable shield, nations have taken distinctly different approaches to the problem.
The United States. In the United States, the Federal Aviation Administration (FAA), in accordance with congressional directives, has developed a set of criteria that bomb detection technologies must meet before they can be certified. The rules establish performance thresholds that detection technologies must achieve (the specific types, amounts, and configurations of explosives that must be detectable under the criteria are classified).
By law, the FAA cannot mandate use of any bomb detection systems until systems exist that meet the criteria. Given the testing time lines, a government mandate for system installation is not imminent.
To date, only one technology, a machine using computed tomography (CT), which is derived from medical CAT scan x-ray technology, has been certified. That system, CTX 5000 by InVision Technologies, Inc., is still being tested in airports to determine how it will function in the field and to assess probable installation and operating costs.
United Airlines was the first domestic-based carrier to begin trials in the United States. These tests took place in November 1995, at San Francisco International Airport. Delta Air Lines will be next, beginning in the early spring of 1996, at Hartsfield Atlanta International Airport. This experiment will be ongoing during the 1996 Summer Olympic Games being held in Atlanta. In addition, a test will be carried out by Northwest Airlines in Manila, Philippines.
Each of these tests, which will last about one year, will help refine the integration of certified explosives detection systems into existing baggage handling systems and verify the total estimated costs of wide scale deployment of such systems.
The FAA is still exploring if and when such systems might be deployed and how widespread that deployment might be. At the same time, in search of faster, cheaper solutions, the FAA is in the process of awarding grants to help companies explore the next generation of computed tomography technology. That process, including development and testing, is expected to take about twenty-four months.
A number of other technologies are also at some stage of development or testing. For example, at least two manufacturers, Vivid Technologies, Inc., and EG&G Astrophysics, are working with dual-energy or dual-beam x-ray technology in which luggage is subjected to two different x-ray energy levels to calculate the atomic composition, density, and other characteristics of objects in the bag. Computerized analysis of the data alerts operators to suspect materials that operators or other technologies can then further examine.
Backscatter technology offers a variation on this theme. In addition to transmitting an x-ray beam through the luggage, it places a receiver on the same side of the bag. The x-rays, which are scattered back, are then analyzed by a computer program. As with the dual-energy technology, a series of algorithms makes computations based on density readings and other factors to determine whether a material is suspect.
Backscatter technology is already used successfully by U.S. Customs Service personnel. The FAA has found it particularly effective for detecting items placed close to the surface of a bag, which other technology is not as adept at detecting, and several manufacturers are exploring backscatter in conjunction with dual-energy technologies.
Another detection method being tested is quadrupole resonance (QR) technology, derived from magnetic resonance imaging used in hospitals. In this case, the elements in a bag are subjected to radio frequency energy rather than x-ray beams. Each material sends back a unique signal rather than an image.
One such system manufactured by Quantum Magnetics completed a field trial at Los Angeles International Airport in early December. That test, explains Llowell Burnett, the company's chief technical officer, was to determine whether the system could function in a real airport setting, without being affected by such factors as radar signals. This trial was not a test of speed (baggage throughput rates), as the luggage was manually loaded. The company plans to test baggage handling speeds along with other factors during its second field trial to be carried out at an airport in the United Kingdom. That test may be completed as early as this month. (Separately, the company is also having a smaller version of the system tested as a potential screening device that could be used by any company for mail packages in an office environment.)
According to Norman E. L. Shanks, head of group security for BAA plc, which manages several UK airports, QR looks promising at this stage but more data needs to be collected. After the UK tests, says Burnett, the company will determine how to proceed to meet the FAA certification standards.
The above technologies are being developed for screening checked baggage. For passenger screening, the FAA is exploring related technologies for use in walk-through portals. For example, they are working with two companies in the developmental stage to combine trace detection technology with metal detection for simultaneous weapon and bomb detection. Airport testing of at least one model is anticipated in late 1996 or early 1997.
The human factor. The FAA, through its Aviation Security Human Factors Program, is also researching ways to enhance the selection, training, and performance of security personnel who must operate explosives detection systems. Trials will involve the purchase, installation, and testing of various training and performance systems. Operational and cost data will be collected and analyzed to assess results. The demonstrations, to be conducted at the nineteen category X (high traffic) U.S. airports, are scheduled to begin in 1996.
Currently, the cognitive skills and processes for optimal detection of threat objects are poorly understood. Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University is developing a screener selection test battery that could be used to predict successful screener performance in the field. The tests examine two types of visual perception: the ability to detect hidden patterns and the ability to detect hidden figures. Tests will be given to job applicants prior to selection. The predictive validity of the results will be determined by correlating applicant preemployment scores with on-the-job performance.
A trial of the test's predictive validity for operators using conventional x-ray equipment is currently underway at the Chicago O'Hare Airport. A comparable test of the predictive capabilities for operators using CT technology will be conducted once that equipment is operational at the demonstration sites mentioned earlier.
The effectiveness of screener training methods will be evaluated by comparing the threat detection performance of personnel before and after training sessions. To make such a comparison, validated baseline data that accurately capture screener capabilities are needed. efforts are underway to determine the baseline performance of x-ray screeners faced with the job of detecting improvised explosive devices. These tests consist of a computer presentation of many digitized x-ray images, some of which contain improvised explosive devices. A similar test of performance using CT equipment will be performed.
Research is also being conducted regarding methods that might counteract normal human failings, such as inattention from repetition. Screener attention levels and detection performance have been found to degrade over time. An operational test will be conducted to determine if fictional threat objects can be used to motivate screeners and maintain screener attention and performance levels over time. The FAA is operationally testing a system called Screener Proficiency Evaluation and Reporting System Threat Image Projection (SPEARS TIP), which places an x-ray image of a fictional threat object onto the x-ray image of a bag actually being examined. After the SPEARS TIP device meets FAA functional requirements, it will be field tested at category X airports.
Currently, only a few manufacturers of x-ray equipment provide machines compatible with the SPEARS TIP device. To address this constraint, a feasibility study is being done on developing an interface so these devices can be connected to conventional x-ray machines.
Europe/United Kingdom. In Europe and the United Kingdom, airlines and regulators have taken a more incremental approach-installing the best currently available technologies and hoping to upgrade those systems as improvements are developed.
England has taken the lead with a regulatory goal of screening 100 percent of checked baggage by 1996. Their rationale is simple. If a technology can provide a significant improvement over the existing system and procedure, it should be used until the next significant advance in performance is achieved. "The legal framework in the U.S. works against this equipment being deployed because it is not certified, whereas within the U.K. and Europe, the view is being taken that...while it's being used, it will be developed further," explains the BAA's Shanks, "so that in time the security performance will be improved as part of the exposure into the operational area."
To meet the 100 percent goal using conventional or enhanced x-ray systems, the United Kingdom's regulatory authority ruled that at least 10 percent of all checked baggage must be hand searched. However, the hand search requirement would be waived if advanced technology systems became available.
With this incentive, airport operators throughout England have been exploring their options, such as the use of advanced "smart" x-ray systems that could be fully integrated into existing airport baggage handling systems.
One such integrated hold baggage screening scheme has been developed as a joint effort between BAA and Vivid, using the dual-energy x-ray technology mentioned earlier. The BAA is working with other manufacturers as well. Several of these systems have been in daily use in airports throughout the United Kingdom since 1993.
Similar implementation programs are in progress in virtually every European nation. The thirty-two-member European Civil Aviation Conference (ECAC) coordinates civil aviation security procedures for its members as well as for the European Union.
The thirty-two members of the ECAC are at various stages of implementing the 100 percent checked baggage screening programs, with many of them already screening a significant percentage of international baggage. Systems are screening baggage at Aberdeen, Amsterdam, Brussels, Edinburgh, Gatwick, Glasgow, Heathrow, Stansted, Southampton, and Zurich international airports.
In each of these cases, baggage is screened after check-in while it is en route to the aircraft. BAA's Shanks says that in addition to the main issue of detection levels (which aren't openly discussed), they are grappling with throughput and tracking.
Government, industry, and the manufacturers have been working together to perfect the process of moving bags through the line, fully integrating the detection technology into the existing baggage handling system "in such a way that would not reduce the existing baggage handling capacity," explains Shanks. It is also critical, he notes, "that once the bag has gone through the x-ray screening process, that we know exactly where it is at any point on that belt, so if we have to pull it off at some point for a further stage of screening, we can do that with 100 percent accuracy. "
Tracking is at the heart of a five-step screening process in use by BAA and other UK airport operators. In step one, all checked baggage where the systems are already in place go through initial screening, as with the dual-energy x-ray technology, automatically while en route through the handling system.
In step two, any bags designated as suspect are examined by a human operator. This second level of inspection can operate at a slower belt speed since it is only being used to examine bags rejected by the automated level-one system. Often, with a slower belt speed, higher image quality can be achieved for operator assisted screening.
Level two focuses the operator on the specific threat object, enabling more accurate and efficient inspection of the bag. The operator inspects the bag for additional components present in a functional explosive device, such as detonators, wires, batteries, and timing devices. The vast majority of bags are cleared by the level-two operator and sent on to the aircraft.
The industry recognized early in the development of the integrated screening approach that bags need not be subjected to the x-ray process at level one and again at level two. If the data from the level one inspection can be viewed by an operator at level two, the second x-ray system can be eliminated.
Matrixed workstations in the Vivid system, for example, allow the level-two operators to inspect bags rejected by the automated level-one system "on-the-fly, " or while the bags are en route to the aircraft. The system's configuration eliminates the need for a second conveyor belt or duplicate screening-reducing installation costs and additional space requirements.
The x-ray mainframe at level one continues to automatically screen bags while the operator uses the workstation for level-two inspection. Alarms from multiple level-one mainframes are dynamically distributed across a pool of level-two operators. The server communicates the results of the level-two inspection to the baggage handling system.
If the bag is not cleared by the human operator at level two, it is diverted to level three, where it is subjected to additional screening with trace detection technology or computed tomography, for example. As mentioned earlier, in the United States CT is the only FAA-certified technology. But it is slow. For that reason, Shanks says, "we see it very clearly as our third-stage" tool rather than as a technology for use in a high-volume level-one system.
In step four, a suspect bag is reconciled with the passenger if necessary and opened in front of the owner. Step five entails the treatment of problem luggage not given the green light through any of the prior steps.
Traditional hold baggage screening methods require multiple conventional x-ray imaging systems within the terminal building, in addition to a large staff of trained operators. This approach is not only expensive, but subjects passengers to an additional screening process and consumes a considerable amount of valuable floor space in the terminal that can be better used for retail and passenger service. Detection systems that are fully integrated into the existing baggage handling system save time and space. A single operator can effectively man each line, thereby significantly reducing recurring costs.
Putting detection technology into existing baggage handling systems has been a challenge, says BAA's Shanks, but it is working. "We've proved those [technologies] sufficiently to start preparing feasibility studies for those locations which we still need to introduce the screening in."
From the UK perspective, the view is "the equipment is out there," explains Shanks. "It is available. It is working very efficiently on a daily basis."
Back in the United States, the House International Relations Committee has asked the General Accounting Office to review bomb detection technology as part of a larger look at technologies that can be used to fight terrorism and drug trafficking. They plan to examine the threat scenario, the state of the technology, cost and performance issues, and whether government agencies are effectively coordinating research and development efforts. That report will not be completed until the fall, after which the committee will consider whether to hold hearings or take other action. In the meantime, checked baggage in the U.S. continues to go unscreened.
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Match Bombs
Match Bombs
by Brian
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Match Bomb # 1
You should be very careful when making eihter one of these bombs, and when you set them off throw them far away.
Ingredients:
1.Tennis ball
2.Sharp knife
3.A box of strike-anywhere-matches with the white tip
4.Scissors
Assembly: First you get the scissors and you cut off the heads of about 100 matches, you might need more so keep the supplies out. Next you cut a slit (not a hole)in the tennis ball. Then you open up the slit and pour all of the match heads in it until you can't cram any more in. To set it off all you do is throw the tennis ball hard against the ground and the matches will light each other, but since they have no oxygen it explodes.
Match Bomb #2
You should throw this bomb farther away then the first one.
Ingredients: 1.A metal pipe (about a foot long) with threads on both sides and with a cap on each side (you can buy this at your local hardware store)
2.Two boxes of strike-anywhere-matches
3.Scissors
Assembly:
First you put one cap on one sides of the pipe tightly. Then you cut the heads off of a box worth of matches, pour them all in the pipe until they are packed, but a little loose. All you do from here is tightly screw on the other lid and chuck the pipe into the air, over concrete (while it is mid air run). This bomb will blow up much bigger than the first one because it takes a lot more pressure to blow up a pipe than blow up a tennis ball so run far.
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Cheap, Quick, Easy Bomb & Cannon
First of all, understand that it is not the authors fault if anyone makes, injures or does anything stupid with this device. This is reference ONLY!
Step 1: Go to your local hobby store and buy a package of C 8-3 model rocket engines. Also, make sure that there are igniters.
Step 2: Cut the engine open with hobby knife,then peel off cardboard.
Step 3: Take and cut of gray stuff that was the nozzle, then grind this up into a powder any way you want. Just be careful with this step.
Step 4: Get hold of a broom with a hollow metal handle, the thicker the metal the better. Cut the broomhandle to a 16" length, making sure the cuts you made are even, and the edges not folded inward.
Step 5: Get say a metal bottle cap, and drill a hole small enough for the part on the ignitor were the 2 wires join.(or if you don't want to bother, you can use a long fuse)
Step 6:solder, hot glue, weld, super glue(whatever you can, but welding is best)the cap to one end of the broom handle.
Step 7: Nows a good time to find a place to shoot this sucker. also, you might want to fi it to a bi-pod or something.
Step 8: Now were ready to arm this sucker. Gently, stick the ignitor tip into the hole in the bottom of the tube. Now, slowly, poor all the ground rocket engine into the tube.
Step 9: Now keep in mind, this is alot of eplosives, so use safety. get 2 30'+ thin wires with small aligator clips at each end, a switch, anda 12 volt lantern battery. Atach the aligator clips from both wires to the to leads of the ignitor. attach those up with teh battery and switch. now with the alligator clips off the battery, go and stick in anything metal and kinda heavy(not more than 1/2 ounce).
Step 10: With the switch in the off position, connect the wires to the battery after double checking that the igniters still in there. Then Hide behind something and flip the switch. it may take a little while, up to 60 seconds, if it takes longer, disconnect the batery and wait like 5 minutes to see what went wrong. hide behind something the first couple times incase you or I fouled up.
Optional
Take a three servo remote and glue the servo battery, unit and all that on an RC car/boat, then glue a servos moving arm thingy to the side of anouther servo. Then mount the first one sideways on like a tail scoop or whatever it's called. Then, once the servos are mounted, glue the gun to the arm of the servo that is now upright and level. Then shorten the barrel to 9". Have the third servo so that it connects 2 wires so that when you move third servo, BOOM! the other two are so that you can aim up down left and right for quickness. also with this it may be a good idea to use a smaller and lighteer projectile and a little less eplosives.
The latter of this file is untested, so use extreme caution. But it is also coming from the mind of an anarchy genious who loves RC cars, so t should work just fine.
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MSAC Explosive
MSAC (Methanol Salt Aluminium Charcoal ,H602NA3C2)
Ingredients:
Methanol
Sodium Chloride(Table Salt)
Aluminium Powder
Charcoal
A Glass jar
1 Make a very fine powder of the Sodium Chloride,Do this also with the Charcoal.
2 Mix 1 part Charcoal with 6 parts Sodium Chloride.
3 Ad to the Salt/Charcoal mixture 2.5 parts of Aluminium Powder.
4 Put this mixture into the glass jar and pour 1 part of Methanol to it, Stir for 1 minute and let it soak for 1hour.
Blasting Cap(Source:The Navy Seal Improvised Explosives & Incediary's Handbook):
Fill a Co2 Cartridge with Black Powder and put a fuse in it.
To Detonate:
The best way to detonate MSAC is to putt it into a Steel pipe and put the Blastingcap in it.
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